Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

pwlowham · July 2006

Hi there. My sister-in-law has a Wrangler 1997 in line four with 70,000 miles. I think that the A/C compressor bearings are failing as there is a shrieking noise when the A/C is turned on. It is not the fan belt. A dealer has told her that a new A/C motor is needed at $1700 and that the existing compressor cannot be reconditioned. I find it difficult to believe that this is true. Can you advise please? Thanks.

mtngal · July 2006

It does sound like you need a new air compressor, though when I replaced mine in the '98 Sport, I got it done by someone else (not dealer!) and it didn't cost that much (want to say it was about $600, might have been cheaper because I think we also had something else done at the same time). Ours was pretty much torn up inside and not repairable.

jimanderson · July 2006

I have a 1995 Wranger. I was driving to work this morning and after getting on the interstate and getting up to speed (about 55mph) I felt the jeep "jump" a couple of times then the engine cut off. I guided to the right hand median slowed to about 25mph, popped the clutch and it started right up.

Continued on towards work, by this time off the interstate, and it happened again but this time without the "jumps". Wouldn't start by popping the clutch, so I guided it into a parking lot. Turn the key and it started right up and I got to work.

This happened last year, and after much searching, my mechanic seemed to have corrected it. Took him a while, but he said it was some type of chip had overheated. Now the problem is back.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Jim

pwlowham · July 2006

Hi there,

Thanks for your reply. I think that I'll look around for a used compressor. Was this model (1997 4 cylinder) sold without A/C? I'm thinking that I could take the compressor off and use a fan belt off of a non-A/C model until I find a replacement.

Regards.

mtngal · July 2006

I know that AC was not standard on my '98 Sport, so I'm almost positive that your model was available without AC. Good luck with it - I wouldn't dream of going without AC out here (apparently some of the valley locations got up to 110 this past weekend - thank heavens I live at 6,000 feet!).

kcblackwranger · July 2006

I have a 97 Sahara that has been missing in the same way for the past 3 summers (for some reason, never happened in the cooler weather). I thought that it had to be a fuel pump/filter problem, but was waiting till it finally crapped out. Never had a check engine light. It would sputter at the most random times (sometimes uphill, sometimes down, sometimes no hill, rainy, dry...). The tach would flutter up and down and then it would be fine for days, even weeks. On Monday, it sputtered on my way home and died for the first time. I couldn't get it to start back up and ended up draining my battery trying. A buddy came up and jumped me while we were trouble shooting (thinking cam position sensor, fuel pump...). I noticed that with the key in the run position, I had no gauges. As we were checking fuses, I also followed the 02 sensor wire up from the sensor (there are 2, this one can found by looking under the jeep around the driver door. The other is after the catalytic converter near the back). What I found is that the wire comes up against the firewall on the engine side and is tied off with a zip tie to a bracket off of the engine. The wire rubs against this bracket and had ultimately shorted itself out. I moved the wire, had gauges and have had no problems since (it's only been 3 days, but I drive 50-75 miles/day). You can gain access to this wire with the hood open, driver side back toward the firewall.

pwlowham · July 2006

Thanks for the reply. Running without A/C is a temporary solution while I get someone to look at the compressor. It is still pumping and cooling very well but is noisy, so replacement bearings might fix the problem, but we need to keep the Wrangler on the road.

Regards.

skyking49 · July 2006

I have an 06 wrangler with under 1500 mi. on it. Last Saturday I took it on a dirt road and tried out the Four Wheel Drive. I only used it for about 10 min. I took it out of four wheel drive and the indicater light "assured"
me it was not engaged.

Two days ago I was going to the local Pizza place and another Jeep driver noticed my Jeep was still in Four Wheel Drive...he noticed the spinning under the front. No light was on indicating that I was still in four wheel drive. He told me to put it in reverse and drive backward. That "fixed" the problem. He said it had something to do with the automatic locking hubs. Any suggestions? If the light does not indicate 4 wheel drive I don't want to have to look underneath all the time.

mac24 · July 2006

First, you wouldn't be able to drive for two days on the highway without noticing you were in 4WD. The steering would be very heavy and jerky, and it would be very uncomfortable to drive.

You don't have automatic locking hubs on your Wrangler, and the thing spinning under the front is the front propeller shaft, which is what it's supposed to do. In 4WD it's locked to the back one in the transfer case so that they are both driven together. In 2WD it's disconnected from the rear and allowed to spin independently. It turns because it's driven by the front wheels.

If the 4WD light remains on after offroad use, you should back up a few yards while zig zagging at the same time. This will release any stress in the drivetrain and allow the front propshaft to disconnect within the transfer case.

skyking49 · July 2006

Boy is my face "red." Actually the Jeep owner that told me it was stuck in 4WD was mistaken. I thought it sounded very odd. It drove very well at 70 mi an hour on the freeway...and you are right, if it were in four 4WD I would have had more difficulity. Thanks for the response. Great forum and great folks.

froggreenjeep · July 2006

I have a 1997 Jeep wrangler 2.5, I took it off roading and on this trip the jeep rpm's fluctuated sparatically and then the jeep shut off, it sounds like it will turn over and on but there is no spark going to the ignition coil or wires. the starter, alternator, battery, and computer have all been tested and verified in correct working order. for a few times i was blowing the ASD fuse but that has ceased. I still have no spark to ignition coil, but at the turn of the key i have gauge indicators and all. Anyone have any ideas what to check or test next, im stuck. I'm thinking i may have a ground or somehow a slit wiring harness... any suggestions?

tidester · July 2006

Try the Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions discussion - you'll get good help there!

tidester, host

morrey · July 2006

I have a 1989 jeep wrangler with a 4.2 6cyl 5 speed manual . It shuts off every time I stop but restarts easly. any help with this problem would be helpful

mac24 · July 2006

Probably a carb problem. It might just need an adjustment to the idle speed, or it could be a blockage in one of the jets or internal passages.

furiousd · July 2006

hi, did you ever figure out what your problem is with your jeep. i have the exact same problem with a carb version, 1992 6 cyclinder.
i just happens out of nowhere. on the highway i can pop the clutch and it will usually start back up. now, today, it did it driving in the city but no soo lucky. i did let it set for a few minutes and it started back up but gave me the same trouble over the next mile.
i did notice the the tacometer will drop to 0 when it stalls, even when the jeep is rolling in gear dead. this makes me think its electrical.
i took the air cleaner off while it was dead and checked to see if it was getting fuel, it was.
so maybe its the coil? i thought it was a fuel problem but it feels like electrical and it was getting gas. i didnt check spark while it was down because i was solo and need someone to bump the ignition.
please let me know what you found out.
doug

div2 · July 2006

Well, Mac, the infamous speedo/tach/airbag light problem used to afflict my 1999 Sahara on a 12-18 month schedule. However, the last time it happened(a few weeks ago) the usual cleaning of the dash cluster terminals and dielectric grease application didn't fix the problem-the gauges will usually act up once or twice after the first start-up of the day. They work fine after that. Any thoughts?

mac24 · July 2006

As well as cleaning and lubricating the terminals, did you also tweak them a little? About 10-20° should do it, from here: 'l' to here: '/'. The twist forces them to make firmer contact when they're plugged back into the sockets.

However, if they work ok after the first hiccup or two I might be inclined to live with it.

morrey · July 2006

I put a rebuilt carborator on and made proper adjustments, but this did not help the problem at all. The jeep runs very well as long as the RPM's are over 1100-1200. Anything under that it shuts off just as though you turned the key off, but restarts very easily. Any other suggestions? Thanks

morrey · July 2006

Have not found the problem yet sorry

div2 · July 2006

Thanks, Mac. I didn't do the gauge tweak since I had never had a problem in the past. In any event, I think I'm going to unload it for something a bit more fun to drive, especially since I'm experiencing several other gremlins as well.

jimanderson · July 2006

Doug,

Funny you should ask.

A couple of days later, it happened again. I finally got it started and made it to the Jeep Dealer. That was a week ago last Friday. I called last week and they admitted to me that they finally had the problem occur while they were test driving it, and they were now troubleshooting.

I just got off the phone with the shop and they said it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor that was bad. Did a google search and found that this is a relatively common problem for Wranglers and Cherokees. No necessarily expensive but annoying.

Hope you get yours fixed.

Jim

mac24 · July 2006

In any event, I think I'm going to unload it for something a bit more fun to drive, especially since I'm experiencing several other gremlins as well.

Sorry to hear that, but good luck though.

mac24 · July 2006

Does it idle ok at a standstill when you restart it?

cbeas · July 2006

Hi everyone. I'm not a frequent poster but I lurk around here alot. Just wanted to pass along an issue I came across. I read somewhere (could've been on this forum) that some TJ owner's have had problems with their heater hose melting through where it comes in contact with the coil pack rail that covers the spark plugs. I changed my spark plugs out on my '04 Wrangler the other day and discovered that I was close to being stranded on the highway! Mine is nearly melted through. Needless to say I dropped it off at the stealership today to be repaired under warranty.

Be sure to feel around all the points the hose touches anything to check for problems. Mine was not visible but it was a pretty deep hole.

Hope this saves someone from getting stranded!

Chad

88jeep · August 2006

my 88 jeep was sunk up above the fenders in mud and water it shut off in the pit and had to be pulled out i changed the coil ignition module rotor distributor cap plugs and wires. i checked all fuses and relays but still no spark help please

div2 · August 2006

I decided to give the old girl one more chance, so tonight I pulled everything apart again and gave the cluster terminals a 10 degree tweak. I did think of one other thing; the dielectric grease I used had been sitting on my workbench for I don't know how long-possibly since 1985 :surprise: I wonder if that stuff has a shelf life...

mac24 · August 2006

I wonder if that stuff has a shelf life...

I don't know, but as a new tube is about $2 at the local auto parts store it's probably not worth pondering over.

Use the old stuff on a squeaky hinge or something. :shades:

div2 · August 2006

I don't know, but as a new tube is about $2 at the local auto parts store it's probably not worth pondering over.

Hey Mac! I'm not THAT cheap

The problem was that all the auto parts stores were closed when I performed the latest surgery. If I have to tear into it again I will buy a new tube. In any case, the problem did not reappear this morning, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

kquick · August 2006

I have a 2001 Sahara 6 cyl 4.0, auto trans with hard shell. Live in Southern CA, sometimes warm, sometimes cold. Use the jeep at the beach avg. temp 60 to 80 degrees, in the desert when going through San Bernardino avg. temp 90 to 115 degrees, and to the Mountains (Big Bear) where it can be 90 degrees with Thunder storms in the summer or 10 degrees in the winter with snow.

Problems are, when parked in the sun (anywhere), the factory fog/road lites turn on by themselves, if I exercise fog lamp switch on the end of the turn signal stem the lites will go out. I am sure this switch/lever has to be replaced. Do It Yourself or best left to a dealer? are there other fixes? is this a known problem by Jeep or am I the only one? I checked Edmunds dealer and NHTSA recall info, nothing there.

Question 2. There is a leak similar to other complaints located on the front passenger side under the dash, carpet gets soaked, I will check what I have read (I read all postings) to see if I can fix it.

Last thing is for those in the know! The current (2007)Rubicon; is this a better vehicle than the Sahara? or are the differences so small the Sahara can run the larger tires and wheels, differential ratios, tranny, etc. OR JUST BUY A Rubicon?????? Nothing EXTREME NON RADICAL only upgrades to improve off road use.

Thank you for any info.

K. QUICK

mac24 · August 2006

Interesting, I haven't heard that one before. You can easily change the multi-function switch yourself, but why not test your theory first, either by the use of a hair dryer or by unplugging the switch.

If you get the water intrusion either during or after the use of the a/c, then it's probably a blocked condensate drain or it need a 90º elbow fitted to it. Otherwise, use a garden hose to find the leak.

The '07, Rubicon or otherwise, is a totally different vehicle to your '01. There are lots of mods you can easily make to your Sahara to improve its offroad performance beyond that of a comparable Rubicon.

newjack1 · August 2006

Ok so I ordered the cowl rubber seal and while waiting for it I decided to drop the windshield to see if by chance the bottom of the frame was rusted out. The good news is the frame was fine except for some minor rust on the passenger side corner. The bad news is I can not get the windshield back up far enough to attach the roll bars. I gave up and put it in the garage until the seal gets here and will fight with it then. Also I saw some wetness between the seal and windshield frame, but it doesn't explain the amount of water that I believe is pooling in the windshield frame and sloshing around until I make the first turn for it to come pouring out on the floor. I hope the seal will fix the problem.

mac24 · August 2006

I recommend PB Blaster. Spray on the hinge, wait a day, work the hinge, repeat. Use patience and make sure not to bend either the hinge or the frame or it'll never return properly.

The new seal should stop water passing under the frame, but it might cause water to be trapped inside it, if indeed water is entering as you suppose. You need to ascertain the entry point and seal it.

kquick · August 2006

Thank you,

I first noticed the problem with the fog lights week before last (during the last So Cal heat wave) and then again last week I stopped by to pick up some cigars and when I came out the lights were on. It was parked in the sun. I will try the heat gun to verify.

The water problem I first noticed after I went through the local car wash a week after I brought it home from the dealer, this is a hard top so I did not think about water intrusion. I have since been in the rain (Those thunder storms in Big Bear)and found the same issue but not as bad. I will also check for a clogged hose just incase I have two problems.

Where would you suggest I look to compare the differences between the Rubicon and the 2001 Sahara and determine which items will improve my jeep. I am also looking at a little better performance which I plan on installing an aftermarket air filter system and a "catback exhaust" Not knowing the jeep that well I'm concerned about doing anything to radical or creating more problems than I solve. But information is gold and you my friend seem to be a great source.

Thanks again for your info. It helps a lot.

KQ

mac24 · August 2006

In your original post you mentioned wanting to improve offroad performance, hence your interest in the Rubicon. You first need to define the type of offroading you want to be able to do, and where you feel your Sahara falls short.

Before itemizing the differences in the Rubicon, which is specifically optimized for rockcrawling, it would be helpful to know what size tire you're currently running, the type of rear axle (D35 or D44) installed, and whether you have a factory limited slip differential (Trak Loc) fitted.

After fitting a catback exhaust and air filter system, the main difference will be in the sound the vehicle makes, rather than in its performance. The 4.0 I6 works well in standard configuration and any performance gain will be a minor one at the top end, i.e. wide open throttle and peak rpm.

I don't wish to dampen your enthusiasm for modifying your vehicle, but you might be surprised at what a standard Wrangler can do when correctly driven. It's hard to fully appreciate the benefits of any modifications when you haven't fully stretched the capabilities of the standard vehicle.

sricks91 · August 2006

Hi Everyone- Many time Wrangler owner that just got back into it after several years out. This one I bought as a "project." It is a '92 YJ 2.5L in decent shape with 170K miles on it. Only spent $1900 so not too bad. Anyway, it smokes like my Grandfather wished he could and I am wondering if there are any "quick" checks out there to try to fix it rather than start digging in to the head gaskets etc. Not afraid to do that but want to start off small. The smoke is white but I have not noticed any oil leaks or consumption yet though I have only had it a few days. Any ideas or experience? Thanks- Sean

Mr_Shiftright · August 2006

White smoke suggests a leaking head gasket. You can buy a cooling system pressurizing tool, pump it up as per instructions, and then remove the spark plugs and look for cooland on them---or if you can, scope the inside of the cylinders and look for coolant.

You can also buy a test kit that checks for combustion gases in the coolant.

Last of all, check for water in your oil.

mac24 · August 2006

You can also have a leakdown test done. Similar to a compression test but done by pressurizing each cylinder with compressed air, rather than measuring the compression that the cylinder can generate on its own.

The percentage of air that leaks from the cylinder is measured and the figures are compared from cylinder to cylinder. The big advantage is that you can see or hear any problems. Air leaking past a valve can be heard in the exhaust or intake. A leaking head gasket will be revealed by bubbles in the radiator. Worn rings and you'll hear air blowing from the dipstick tube or oil filler.

Any good mechanic should be able to perform this test, and it shouldn't take more than half an hour on a four cylinder engine.

sricks91 · August 2006

Thanks- looks like any answer is going to be an ugly one. I'll let you know how it works out.

Mr_Shiftright · August 2006

Yep, great test to do. I was thinking he wanted to do a test himself so suggested the lower-tech pressurization test--it's not an expensive tool and you can use it to find coolant leaks on any vehicle.

newjack1 · August 2006

I have found the water leak for sure. After I pulled off the old gasket I started to closely inspect the casing on the back of the windshield frame. I knew water was somehow pooling in there and spilling out through the port holes that provide access to the wiper parts. Well along the bottom where that casing meets the frame it looked as if there was some separation. I sprayed blue windex along the base and looked through the port holes. Sure enough blue windex was seeping through. I supposed it was not welded shut well if at all. I suppose it can be welded or maybe a line of silicon along the base would seal it well enough along with the new gasket.

As far as the windshield frame I will try your suggestion. Do you think if I took the roll bar off and attached it to the windshield frame first it would be easier to attach to the back bar? I have never removed them so I don't know or maybe if loosening the screws on the back that would allow me to bring the roll bars closer to the windshield. Thanks

davids1 · August 2006

I replaced the cowl seal on my 95 last fall. I did not have any trouble with reconnecting the roll bar to the windshield frame, with the exception of one cross-threaded bolt, but I did hit the hinges with PB Blaster for about a week prior to lowering the windshield. Give the PB Blaster a few days to work.

sancap · August 2006

I have a 2004 Rubicon and recently the Check Engine light came on and is staying on. This coincides with two other events. The engine periodically skips..like a fuel block, and the speed (cruise) control quick working. However, at ilde if I hold down the on button on the cruise control the engine rpms begin to go up to about 2000 and then gradually come back down and fluctuate......Any suggestions?.....besides the dealer.....
Thanks, :confuse:

mac24 · August 2006

When the 'check engine' light comes on it causes a trouble code to be retained. You can have the code read for free at Autozone, and it should point you in the direction of the problem.

However, you have an '04, and unless the warranty has expired because you have exceeded the mileage I strongly suggest you let the dealer take care of it to avoid possible future warranty issues.

furlong220 · August 2006

Did you ever resolve this problem? I am experiencing the same problem with my Dodge Quad Cab and it has been to the dealer twice already and they haven't figured out what is wrong.

stever · August 2006

Try the Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab discussion. The Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion may be of help too.

kevael · August 2006

The problem disappeared. It leads me to believe there is a wiring problem or a switch getting ready to fail.

kquick · August 2006

Sorry for the delay in responding to your questions.

I have a 2001 Sahara 4WD Auto trans 4.0L.

I had requested info on the difference between the 2001 Sahara and the new Rubicon. You had asked about the tire size and the diferential size and type of use.

The tires are 31x10x50R15LT on stock 15 " jeep wheels.

The rear diferential is unknown but I would assume (bad thing to do) that it is a stock 3:07 without seeing a tag or marker. I checked the serial number but could not find any reference info on the web to cross with and since I purchased this as a used car I do not have the original window sticker to answer the question.

Yes you are correct, it is bascially the driver that makes the difference, but I firmly believe that the right tool for the right job. My goal is to have a sound set of basics for or framework before I find myself sitting somewhere asking "Why Me" I also am a firm beliver in "A machines reliability is directly proportional to the maintenance it receives" so with that in mind I am searching for assemblying the best foundation for multiple uses and reliability, and then taking care of it.

My off roading is in the San Bernardino mountains aprox 6000 to 10,000 feet elevation, some desert touring in Lucerne Valley and road driving to get back and forth.

The lay of the land is dirt roads, sometimes very rutted, dyr or muddy, some rocks and beautiful sceenery, the desert is mostly a bad place to be, but have I friends that ride in the dirt bike races and ralleys, I like to tag along for the fun of being there.

Thanks again for your input.

K. Quick

newjack1 · August 2006

Ok with the assistance of my brother I finally got the windshield back up. Hopefully, the water leak problem will be solved. However, when I put the doors back on the car--they will not easily shut like before. The passenger side is worse than the driver's side, I have to pull doors up and push hard to close them. I don't know what to do now.

mac24 · August 2006

A machines reliability is directly proportional to the maintenance it receives

I'm in full agreement with you there, though bad luck can always play its part.

To get the full spec on the original build of your Sahara, just give the VIN to your local dealer and they can access it on their computer in a couple of minutes. You can also contact DC via Jeep.com and get a quick response.

The Rubicon is specifically built for rockcrawling. The transfer gearing is a lot lower than standard, which is great for climbing up and down steep rocky slopes but not so good for mud and trails. It has locking diffs, and when unlocked the rear is a limited slip (which you may or may not have). Tires are 1" larger than yours and it has rear disc brakes. The rear axle is a D44, the heavy duty option, which you also may or may not have. The front axle is also heavier duty.

For your type of offroading I don't see that the Rubicon would be any advantage. Neither vehicle is designed to offroad at speed. If you want to spend the money, then a Rubicon won't disadvantage you to any great extent, and of course just wanting one is a valid enough reason to buy one, even if you just drive it on the street.

mac24 · August 2006

Sounds like the windshield isn't accurately returned to its original position.

Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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