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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Most of the 99s have the Smart Key Immobilizer if it screws up the engine will start but shut down very quickly.
    If the keys chip is damaged or you are using a copy with out the chip the engine will shut down.
    If you have two keys try the other one.
    Good luck.
  • terryandleeannterryandleeann Member Posts: 4
    You are correct! We found out when Leeann went out and had no problem starting the jeep.... I spent nearly an hour out there looking at it earlier... I had a new key that we have never used before.... Of course she used the main key....
  • jeeper71jeeper71 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Y'all!

    I have read all of the posts just to make sure this hasn't been covered, and I didn't see it, so here goes:

    I have a 2004 Wrangler X (6cyl) with 55K miles.

    For a bit now, it has had a big problem starting. Meaning that I put the key in the ignition press the clutch all the way to the floor, and pray. It tries really hard to start and takes about 7-10 seconds to actually start. When it does finally turn over and start it smells like gas. Kinda like in the old days when you would press the gas to start your car and it would flood the engine. Except I do know the difference between the gas and the clutch. I've taken it to my mechanic and he has hooked it up to all of the diagnostic units that he has, and can't find anything wrong.
    I really don't like the way I was treated the last time I went to my dealer for new lug nuts, so I would rather not hand over any cash to them what-so-ever.

    Also, this morning when it finally turned over and started the engine light was on, so I drove it the 50 miles to my mechanic, he told me there had been a misfire on cylinder 6, so he replaced the spark plugs (plus gave me an oil change since I would be due in 150 miles anyway)

    Sorry that this is so long but I'm kind of bummed. I love my Jeep. I put a lot of miles on it maybe that's the problem who knows.

    Any help would be fantastic! :blush:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    One possibility is that you one or more leaking injectors. That will result in fuel dribbling into the cylinders after shutdown. When starting, the fuel system then has to re-pressurize and the flooded cylinders will be reluctant to fire, both of which will delay starting.
  • josieb420josieb420 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issue with my 97 Wrangler. I'm aware that the tranny fluid must be poured into the same hole that the tranny dipstick comes out of, but I suspect that at some point my dipsticks were switched. One is very close to the engine oil cap, but that one is much bigger than the other. Which dipstick hole do I use??
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Do bear in mind that the post you're referring to concerned a manual transmission. Yours is an automatic and the dipstick is the one closest to the firewall. The tube is much larger in diameter than the one for the engine, and the dipstick itself is longer than the engine one. The handles on the dipsticks should also be marked as to application.
  • diegotexeradiegotexera Member Posts: 11
    Hi all...just thought I'd vent and hopefully get some feedback about what happened this past week to el jeepo.

    Last week the engine was spewing cooland ALL over the place. It looked like Niagara coming from the block. I thought I was doomed and had cracked a head. The next day the mechanic called me up and told me it was the freeze plugs, which made me smile. Either way, he says he had to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to cleanly get at the plugs in order to replace them ($320). Next we did the front axle seals ($220) and the differential service ($200). Add to that the $600 in new tires i bought last weekend and I'm up to $1300 for the week into my beloved jungle fighter...he is happy, and so am i. While I was at it, I asked my mechanic to throw in some fresh Mobil 1 and give the engine a good cleaning, inside and out. BTW, my mechanic's shop is soooo clean you can sit on the floor and have a sandwich...and feel comfortable enough to pick the loose shards of lettuce off the shop floor...and eat them. A real treat. Anyway, now that I've poured almost 2 grand into the jeep this month alone, I'm ready for a few more upgrades as well as maintenance items. Can anyone suggest other things I should be doing to the Jeep to keep it running as well as it has for the last 10 years (almost).

    1998 Jeep Sahara
    73,000 miles
    warn 8000 winch
    BFG AT 32x11.5R15 (and they fit nice!!!)
    Miami, FL (i.e. North Cuba) :P
  • rgreen1rgreen1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 wrangler 4cyl 5 speed . at highway speed it just quit pulling in 5th gear all other gears are fine has any body else had this trouble. thanks
  • micburmicbur Member Posts: 1
    OK....have a situation here of which I would like opinions. I had 4 new tires put on my 1999 Jeep Wrangler. They are off-brand first off but they were free as I won them in a raffle. Jeep drive fine for a day or two then I started noticing a vibration when I reached speeds over 55. I thought maybe the tires were not balanced or threw a weight so had them rotated and balanced. Again drove good for a few days then the vibration cam back. Had one guy notice that around the white letters on all four tires that the side wall was not black but discolored. He said that this was a sign that the belts in the tires were broke. Because of the vibration I was wondering if this might be true but all four tires are showing the same discoloration. Like to know what might be causing the vibration? Prior to putting the tires on I had new shock installed and the Jeep drove fine. Could it be the cheap but free tires...how can I tell? Maybe the shocks have wore out...how can I tell?
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Free tires are not worth youe life.
    Take them off.
    Throw them away.

    Sounds like these tires have been over inflated.
    ...happens sometimes when the tires are being mounted.

    If the installer is having trouble seating the beads they might bump the air pressure inorder to force the bead into the groove on the rim.

    This excessive pressure can strech the tires and ruin them.

    Rims should always be cleaned before new tires are mounted. This is almost never done.

    If your tire man will not take this step have him remove the tires from the rims and let you clean them up and then let him mount and balance the tires.

    The lazy way around cleaning the rims is to seat them with higher pressure.

    Using starting fluid (diethyl ether and other things that go boom) is another way to ruin your tires.
    But that is another story.

    Are your new tires the same size as the old ones?
    Is the tread more aggresive?

    One way to check the tires for damage is to deflate them as it is easier to check sidewall damage on a deflated tire.

    Good luck rattle on.
  • terryandleeannterryandleeann Member Posts: 4
    I recently noticed two small spots of oil on the garage floor where our 1999 jeep has been parked and tried to locate the source. All I can come up with is the bottom oil pan gasket and then the top valve cover gasket which both seem to be an easy fix... Is this a possibility?? Also what is the procedure for cleaning the engine. It isn't too bad though. Roughly what would it cost?

    Thanks in advance!! Terry and Leeann
  • terryandleeannterryandleeann Member Posts: 4
    Our 1999 Jeep Wrangler has no problem coming up to the normal temp but for the life of me can't figure out why it won't blow hot air. The AC is great, the fan works fine and we replaced the thermo stat too. Would love any advice.... Thanks! Terry and Leeann
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    This is almost certainly a problem with the blend door in the HVAC housing. The heater core always has coolant circulating through it, even before the thermostat opens. Incoming or recirculated air passes through the a/c evaporator then either straight on into the vehicle, or it's diverted through the heater core first. The flap that diverts it, either partially or completely, through the heater core is called the blend door.

    The blend door is positioned electrically by a small motor. Your issue could either be with the switch, wiring, or motor, or it could be a problem with the door physically sticking.
  • 99wrangler99wrangler Member Posts: 4
    I bought a used 99 Wrangler sport with what I think is a 3 inch suspension lift and a 1 inch body lift already on installed, but lately I’ve notice a slight sag on the passenger side. I believe I bought like this. I was wondering what the problem could be. Could I need a whole new suspension or could the sag even really affect anything? Thank you in advance.
  • dnashdnash Member Posts: 35
    I have a coolant leak somewhere and I thought it was in the heater coil since it only leaks when I use the heat. I went all summer and did not have to add any coolant, but the first time that I turned the heat on this winter, it leaked. It is usually only a small amount and I have not been able to trace it. I assumed that it was the heater coil and have not been using the heat, but based on Mac's statement that coolant is always circulating through it, I am not so sure. What else could cause this phenomenon? It is a 2000 with the 4.0.
  • seb135seb135 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 TJ Sport 5 speed. I was having some problems with my clutch so I decided to have it replaced. I initially bought the clutch assembly myself to repair it on my own. Work got really busy so I took it to a garage and the mechanic installed it for me. After driving it for a few days I noticed everytime I shifted into 3rd gear it grinded EVERYTIME. I called him he said it just needed broke in so give it a few weeks. Its been about 4 months now and it still grinds when I use 3rd gear and the Mechanic no longer has his shop so I can't take it back to him. I haven't checked the flywheel or anything for that matter, I also noticed that putting my jeep into 4 wheel drive is not more difficult I have to really play with it to get it to find the "hole" instead of it being simple like it was before.

    Now to my Defroster problem. When I have the defroster on the lowest blower level it works perfect if I switch it to any higher level I hear a popping noise and it switches from the defroster to the floor.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The problem is with the diverter door which directs the air flow within the HVAC housing. Part of the diverter door that connects it to the actuator is broken, which allows it to float freely. At a low blower setting it's held by its own weight but with higher air flow it gets flipped over to the vent/floor position. If it's the external link between the actuator and the door that's broken it's an easy fix. If it's the door itself, then the whole HVAC housing has to be stripped and the door mended in some way as it's not available separately.

    In regard to the transmission problem, unless the mechanic opened the transmission itself, there's no direct connection between the flywheel/clutch/bearing and third gear. Unless the shift lever is hitting something, the problem will be internal and most likely synchromesh, though there are other possibilities. The issue of poor t/c shifting probably is connected with the transmission r&r and should be curable by adjustment.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Usually if the heater core is leaking you will have signs inside your vehicle.
    (...a puddle of fluid on the passengers side floor, below the hearer core...the sweet smell of ethylene glycol...or your windows fogging up on the inside when you defrost...)
    There is a thing you can check is the gaskets (O-rings) between the radiator core and the end caps.
    Every time your vehicle is warmed-up and cooled-down the aluminum radiator core expands and contracts eventually this will start to leak.
    This phenomenon seems to occur most often in the winter. Go-figger...
    Replacing these gaskets is not rocket science it just takes a flat blade screwdriver and a pair of channel-locks.
    A couple or twenty-four refreshing beverages is also a good thing to have around.
    If you have a friend who likes to help don't invite him over 'til your done.
    Before you tear you whole Jeep apart you might just have the cooling system pressure tested.
    Good luck,
    B-U

    It is better to brag about your success than to have your failures witnessed.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Just a wild guess...
    You might have given your no longer in business mechanic a pile of parts and a pile of money for nothing.
    Bet he took your money and sold the parts back to the store.

    Hello boys and girls.
    Welcome to the neghiborhood...
    "Can you say, Ripped me off."

    A new clutch does not need a break in period, but if you are planning on leaving town that's a good stall tactic.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While I also tend to be a little cynical by nature, I find it hard to imagine that the original poster wouldn't have been able tell the difference between his original worn clutch and whether or not a new one had been fitted.

    I suppose it's possible that the recently departed mechanic switched transmissions, but that presupposes he just happened to have a suitable unit laying around.

    This sounds far more like an unfortunate coincidence for seb135, though it would certainly pay to check the oil level in that transmission before having it pulled.
  • mdub81mdub81 Member Posts: 1
    I'm attempting to replace my radiator. I can't get one of the screws out. It seems as if there is no way to get a good angle at it. It also does not seem to have anything in its way that I can remove to get to it. (Don't get me wrong, there are definitely things in the way, I just don't believe I can remove them.) If you are looking at the jeep from the front, the screw is the bottom/3rd one down on the left side that screws the front of the radiator into the metal behind the grille. I don't know how a mecahnice would get to it unless he had a very long wratchet wrench. My jeep is a 2000 6 cylinder 4.0L. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I don't know how a mecahnice would get to it unless he had a very long wratchet wrench.

    A perfect example of an excuse to treat yourself to a few new tools. :)

    It's not at all unusual to have to connect three or four extensions together, maybe adding 'u' joints or wobble drives. Sometimes things are more accessible from below even though it would initially seem to be more obvious to go in from above.

    I think the last time I did that job I lowered an air ratchet down on it's hose, fiddled it's socket into place with a long screwdriver, then was just able to operate the ratchet with my fingertips. However, there's always a way. One other tip is to use 3/8" or 1/4" drive tools, rather than 1/2". It's surprising how strong they can be, and if they should break............well, that's why you should always buy tools with a lifetime warranty. ;)
  • jeeper3jeeper3 Member Posts: 3
    WHEN I TURN ON MY A/C OR HEATER THE HOT OR COLD AIR ONLY BLOWS THUR BY DEFORSTER VENTS?> ANYONE NO HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM? PLEASE HELP
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It could be a problem with one of the vacuum actuators that operate the diverter doors in the HVAC unit, or it could be the switch or one of the vacuum lines. However, before checking those, have a look to see if the knob is actually turning the switch when you rotate it. It's not unusual for the plastic knob to crack and no longer grip the shaft.

    Finally, please don't use all caps. It's hard to read and implies that you're SHOUTING! :mad:

    :)
  • jeeper3jeeper3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Mac24, went out lifted the hood of my jeep, and on the right side was a loose vacum hose, you saved me a trip down the hill and gas, many thanks. :shades:
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Most likely the lever that moves the diverter from floor heat to defrost has come off the shaft on the vaccumm motor.
    There is supposed to be a clip that holds this together.
    They were not installed on a lot of Jeeps.
    This can be reached by standing outside the drivers door and reaching up under the dash. If you operate the heater control between defrost and floor heat you can feel the shaft move.
    You can usually just push the lever back on the shaft and it will stay on and your diverter will work fine until the temp and wind chill drops to -10 or the rain is horizontal.
    The clip is cheep and your friendly Chrysler Jeep Dealer should be more than happy to install it for you.
    Should be done free by the friendly Dodge Boys.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    HI MAC,
    ALL CAPS IS OK.
    I THINK jeeper3 MIGHT JUST TALK LOUD.
    THIS IS A THING THAT HAPPENS TO OLD JEEP GUYS WHO DRIVE AROUND WITH THERE CANVAS TOPS FLAPPING.
    Oops, sorry didn't mean to yell at you. ':}
    Burntup
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Just saw your post and since I own a Jeep Wrangler X I decided to check around and I found this.

    Chrysler (TJ) Jeep Wrangler - Clutch pedal pushrod

    Date: 31/10/2006

    Supplier Name: DaimlerChrysler Australia/Pacific Pty Ltd

    Product Make: Jeep

    Product Model: (TJ) Wrangler

    Target Number: 79

    Model Years From: 2006

    Consequences:

    Campaign Number: RC F22

    VIN Range:

    Serial Range:

    Product Info: This recall applies only to the above vehicles equipped with a manual transmission built from 3 November 2005 through 13 February 2006.

    Defect Details: The clutch pedal pushrod on a number of vehicles may break and allow clutch engagement when the pedal is depressed. This can increase the vehicle's stopping distance and/or cause engine stalling.

    Consumer action: Contact any authorised Chrysler Jeep Dealership to have the replacement carried out as soon as possible. If you have sold the vehicle please contact DaimlerChrysler on phone number 03 9566 9380, fax number 03 9566 6223 or via e-mail: renee.boyd@daimlerchrysler.com

    I contacted the dealer where I purchased my Jeep and he said mine was made in October 2005 and a VIN search found that mine was not subject to any recall. He stated that it may have been a problem with a "batch" built during the time period listed above. Odd that one month would make any difference. Did they change the part after October I wonder or will mine be on the list at a later date? I have around 6,500 mi. on mine since March 2006. I have been "laid" up and have not put many miles on it in the last year
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    SkyKing49,
    Sometimes I think that Jeep/Chrysler only recalls the vehicles that they are required to and not all the vehicle that they should. I think they work on the same cost/benefit, risk v. profit, pay-out on a lawsuit v. cost of recall theory as Ford Motor Company.
    Remember the Exploding Pintos, Crown Vicky Fire-bombs, and the Roll-Over-Explorers.
    Back to Jeep there was a recall on the heaters on the Jeep Wranglers. Mine was not included (outside the Serial Number Range) even though it had all the problems of the recall.
    It was only one month newer than the ones recalled.
    Jeep Customer Service said that second owners are not eligible to benefit of some recalls. ...weird huh???
    By the way, Do you fly?
    BurntUp
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    I'm sure this has been addressed before, but here goes anyway! My 98 Sahara's wipers work only on high. I have lost the low and intermittent function. This started as a gradual problem, but now High is all that works. Where do I start?
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    HECK NO...
    7" of lift & Swampers
    13 MPG IS NOT NORMAL...
    its a miracle!!!
    The JEEP GODs must love you.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Yeah..no doubt you are probably right. I am hoping against hope that my Jeep was in a separate "batch" and won't have that problem If I have the plastic part I don't know what difference it would make when it was made.

    I only fly enough to keep my license. Good luck.
  • geitzngeitzn Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 jeep wrangler when driving in 4wheel drive it starts grinding and stops pulling if you go to change gears it won t go into gear just grind.drives fine in 2 wheel drive. any suggestion help
  • mydaisymydaisy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Wrangler - went to get the normal service and they SAID they had to replace BOTH DIFFERENTIALS. Many people have asked me if I heard ping-sounds, etc. NO THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG -- then I called another Jeep dealer who said he'd never heard of REPLACING them. It was about $3,000 I didn't have. Anyone ever heard of having to replace them? Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First, has it always done this, or has it just started?

    Second, are you driving on a hard surface, or are you off-road in loose dirt or gravel?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I can't think of anything that could be wrong with them that wouldn't be giving dramatic symptoms of something amiss.

    Why not ask the dealer for an explanation as to why they need replacing?
  • silta86silta86 Member Posts: 1
    I had a coolant leak that was spraying all over the inside of the hood and on the engine. I decided it was the radiator because of where the coolant was pooling up. I replaced the radiator and the problem wasnt fixed. Can't figure out where the leak is coming form. Anyone familiar with this problem?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The usual sources for coolant leaks are the radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, flow and return hoses for the heater, and the water pump.

    As the radiator has been replaced and the same leak remains, you can probably rule it out for the moment. If one of the hoses is leaking to the extent that it's spraying all over the engine and hood, it ought to be fairly obvious.

    However, a water pump leak can be a little more tricky to spot. There is a hole on the underneath of the pump to allow coolant to escape if the shaft seal starts to leak. The reason for the hole is two-fold. First, it serves as a visual indicator of the problem. Second, it helps prevent the leaking coolant from reaching the bearing and causing the pump to seize. If the leak is small you need a small mirror to spot it, but if it's large the leaking coolant will get thrown all over the place by the fan, which may be the cause of your problem.
  • jeepw4x4jeepw4x4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I was driving my 97 Jeep wrangler home from work today. turned a corner to accelatrate and then I heard the loudest bang, sounded like a gun shot. I quickly pulled over to check the car. everything seemed fine. I started the car again put it into drive and it just rolled back. car sounded fine but it just kept rolling back. it would rev heaps but not move. Had to get it towed. I have had a small transmission and engine oil leak but i top them up regulary as i cannot afford the to repair the leaks. I may have learnt my lesson the hard way. does anyone on here know what that loud bang could have possibly been? what costs im looking at for it to be repaired?

    thanks heaps

    Jason
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    ...just a blind guess...
    Maybe something let go in the diff.
    Second place to look would be the transfer case.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If you're lucky you've broken a halfshaft, which is an axle shaft that goes between the wheel and the center of the diff. Not necessarily 'cheap', but probably the least expensive possibility. It might also be one of the spider gears in the diff, again not too bad.
    However, if you've broken something in the transmission.................. :sick:
  • jjames2006jjames2006 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2006 jeep wrangler unlimited 6 speed manual trans. I have had it in the shop 2 times for a throw out bearing. Has any one else had this problem? I cannot find any info on this problem. Please tell me you might know something about this?!?!?!
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    HELP>>>
    The dash board and the radio died yesterday.
    They all quit at the same time. Nothing smells hot, no smoke, no fire.
    All of the gauges quit. (oil press, water temp, amps and fuel level)
    The speedo & tach are dead. Odometer too.
    The radio is also dead.
    Checked all the fuses. OK
    I have pulled the radio and checked all the wires and connections. OK
    Pulled the dash unit and checked the connections and ground wire. OK
    All the wires from the ign. switch look OK too.
    I am stumped...
    Any ideas. ????
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Assuming you don't use the clutch pedal as a footrest (do you?), you've either had two faulty bearings or they're being installed out of alignment for some reason. Warranty should be taking care of this so make sure they look carefully if it happens again.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Time to get out your multimeter, or at least a test lamp.

    The positive side of the power distribution starts at the battery. From there it goes first to the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then on to the rest of the vehicle, either directly or via the fuse block behind the passenger glove box.

    You've obviously lost power to several circuits at once, so you need to find a feed source that common to all. I can only guess but I suspect the PDC or something close to it. This is where your multimeter comes in. Just because a fuse hasn't blown doesn't mean that power is reaching it. Trace the flow through the PDC and onward until you come to the stopping point.
  • geitzngeitzn Member Posts: 2
    well I ve only had it for 2 months.Actually the roads were icy.First time I used it.
    THANKS
  • jeepgirlbethjeepgirlbeth Member Posts: 3
    I've owned my 97 Jeep Wrangler Sahara for about 6 months now. I've had an intermittant problem for the last couple of months. When I start my Jeep it typically turns over several times before starting anyways, but recently sometimes it didn't start at all, just clicked...I let it sit, try again in few, and it would start...when it did start, it wouldn't idle, just stalled out. After I stay on the gas and it ran for a few minutes it would idle fine. Finally, it threw a code one day and I read an IAC motor problem. I put in a new Idle Air Control Motor, and cleaned the throttle body, and it always starts now, but if I don't give it gas right away it will stall out or idle REALLY, REALLY low for the first 40 seconds or so that my Jeep is running. Runs totally fine after about 1min and starts/runs better warmed up. Holding gas pedal to floor on start doesn't help. No code now. Fule pump relay seems to be running. HELP please!! :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Three possibilities spring to mind.
    Faulty transfer case, different size tires on front and rear axles, different gearing on front and rear axles.

    Two and three are easy to check yourself (there are some fairly recent posts on checking axle ratios, don't just go by the tag in your case).
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I think that you had two separate problems. First, a low voltage issue, then a faulty IAC.

    You've fixed the IAC issue so now you need to look at the battery, battery connections, and alternator output.

    Poor or no idle is a common symptom of low voltage. Unless it's new, or tests perfectly, I'd make the battery the prime suspect.
  • jeepgirlbethjeepgirlbeth Member Posts: 3
    Thanks! The battery is only about 3 months old and I just checked and replaced the battery cable connections. I'll stop by someplace and have them check the battery just in case. Is there any way some kind of fuel pump problem could be causeing the starting issue, since I have to give it gas to start it? :confuse: Thanks! :)
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