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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    A fuel pump that wasn't up to spec or that had a blocked filter would normally also cause starvation at high demand, whereas your Jeep runs ok at speed.

    A leaking fuel injector(s) can cause a hard start situation, but it's because of flooding which you would smell easily.

    Pumping the gas pedal achieves nothing with a fuel injected engine, it just flaps the throttle butterfly. In a carb'd engine it's different as a carb normally has an accelerator pump, and pumping the gas pedal squirts neat gas into the manifold.

    Don't just check the battery, have the alternator output checked as well.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Could you tell me what month your jeep was built? Just curious.
  • bmmiddendorfbmmiddendorf Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 97 Wrangler Sport with 81000 miles and I have a heating issue. The fan only runs when I have it on high, when it is on any of the three lower settings it will not run, but some air is being blown out of the ducts. It does the same if I'm trying to heat, cool, or use the A/C with the fan - it still only runs on high. Any suggestions?
  • jeepgirlbethjeepgirlbeth Member Posts: 3
    Seriously, mac, you rock. Seriously. lol Found a battery issue and now it starts fine! Thank you so much! You rock, and I totally appreciate the info...answered A LOT of questions no one else was able to answer! :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While it's possible that you may have a faulty switch or bad wiring, it's much more likely that the resistor pack is at fault.

    The resistors are used to control the lower three speeds and the pack is located in one of the HVAC ducts, accessible in the passenger footwell.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You're welcome. :blush:

    It's always good to hear when it works out.
    P.S. The check is in the mail. ;)
  • stans_outpoststans_outpost Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info. You helped me solve my problem!
  • letmedriveletmedrive Member Posts: 3
    my 98 2.5 4cyl starts hard and engine sputters when im shifting from 3rd to 4th at 3000 rpm in both gears. any helpful hints? :confuse:
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    When is the last time you changed the spark plugs or wires?

    Check your distributor cap and make sure the contacts are clean as well. Have you checked the OBDII codes to see if anything is being thrown?

    Sounds similar to problems I had before my throttle position sensor went out last year. But check the plugs, wires, distributor.

    -Paul
  • letmedriveletmedrive Member Posts: 3
    thanks Paul, i put new plugs wires cap and rotor, i also replaced the distributor after i put it on the scanner, and i stll have same problem with no new codes
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Can you you drive through this spluttering to reach higher rpm, or are you held at 3K?
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Probably the heater switch is burned out...
    This part is cheep but is only a symptom of a much worse problem.
    There was a recall for a faulty heater, dash ground.
    This caused the switches to burn out, wiring to overheat, motors to smoke and other electrical issues.
    Check with Jeep and see if your Jeep is included in this recall.
    The recall was for a limited number of vehicles.
    The problem is wide spread. "DENIAL"
    Have the blower motor and all heater/ac related electronics checked.
    The best solution probably is to replace the heater/air conditioner console, (This is the fan switch, heat/ac selector switch, temp mixer) all damaged wiring.
    Make sure the ground wire is firmly attached and undamaged.
    The wiring harness for the heater/ac is not available so it will need to be repaired. (Go figger that one)
    When you are done write a letter to Dodge and ask to join the frat.
    This has been a problem on Dodge vans since 1973.
    (Keeps the service bays full)
    "Thank you Sir. May I have another?"
    Maybe someday Jeep will again be come its own company.
    i.e. AMF/HD Chrysler/Jeep
  • mcrisomcriso Member Posts: 3
    Anyone know of the best way to gain access to replace the plug s & wires on this 2003 wrangler ? lots of stuff to disconnect. where do i start ??
    any suggestions / ideas greatly appreciated !
  • robby7robby7 Member Posts: 4
    I noticed noise and no power from my 97 Jeep Wrangler. I discussed the problem with my father, who happens to be a mechanic. He said, "its the cat." (mechanic talk) So, I pulled out my Jeep manual to read about the catalytic converter. There is a disclaimer which reads, "Federally mandated extended warranty which covers emissions. Check with a dealer service department before replacing at your own expense." Next, I looked on the internet for information on extended warranty and found some news that was NEW to me!! Daimler Chrysler has a civil suit against them for NOT notifying customers of the problem. To see the Settlement Fact Sheet, just type: "Jeep Wrangler catalytic converter warranty" in the search field. There are two links to look for: "Diamler Chrysler Corporation Settlement Fact Sheet Civil Case" and "News Release 2005-12-21 Chrysler Agrees to Recall OBD systems." I'm sending this message to all who was not aware like myself, and I apologize if I'm repeating old news. GET THOSE CONVERTERS FIXED AT CHRYSLER's EXPENSE. MAKE THEM PAY!!!!
  • letmedriveletmedrive Member Posts: 3
    yes it does come out of the sputter past 3000, I also noticed that if I have the heater and radio turned off the jeep runs fine while shifting. I wonder if it could have a elecrical problem?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I rather think you do. Have you checked for codes?
  • texjeeptexjeep Member Posts: 3
    1997 Jeep Wrangler - The heat and AC work, but the A/C air flows out of the heat vents and not the A/C vents?

    How do you fix such a problem?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are no dedicated heat or a/c vents. Perhaps you could explain in more detail?
  • texjeeptexjeep Member Posts: 3
    When I place the switch in the A/C position, cold air comes out of the defrost vents instead of the air conditioning vents. When I place the switch on heat, hot air comes out of the correct vents.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I don't mean to be awkward but the problem still needs further explanation.

    The HVAC unit in your '97 uses rotary switch for blower fan speed, and slider controls for both temperature control and for a/c selection and direction.

    You have a large combination of air treatment options. Cooled and de-humidified air can be drawn and treated from the outside or recirculated within the cab. The recirculated air can be directed to the face only, but treated outside air can be sent to the windshield, face, or face and feet. Untreated air is also available. To both treated and untreated air, heat can be added. For instance, if the weather is cold and damp you would use treated air, but combine it with heat to give a warm dry output.

    This is just a basic idea of the HVAC options available to you. Maybe erickpl, who has a '97, can give some greater detail.

    Anyhow, all that was to explain that there are no dedicated a/c vents or hot air vents. Hot, cold, treated or untreated can come from any, or sometimes combinations of vents.

    It may well be that you don't actually have a problem, but are misunderstanding the functions of your HVAC system. Or, it could well be that I am just misunderstanding the problem (wouldn't be the first time :)). Perhaps you could explain exactly what position the sliders are in, and where the air is coming from, when you think it's functioning incorrectly?

    If there is a problem, it will likely be connected with the various actuators and diverter doors that control the air flow and temperature.
  • rmichael63rmichael63 Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the windshield wiper switch on my 2001 Jeep Wrangler, how easy is it to do? How do I do it?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    You may just need to replace that stalk that has the wiper controls.

    www.jeepsareus.com probably has em a bit cheaper than the dealer. OR you could possibly find the setup at a local salvage yard. I've bought quite a few parts for my 97 from the salvage yard - including my windshield frame that matched my paint perfectly. :)

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Mac is probably right. The vent doors that divert air flow are probably to blame.

    The 97's slide control is less sophisticated that he gives it credit for.

    You have a choice of:
    fresh air to face OR
    fresh air to feet OR
    fresh air to feet with defrost

    The only recirc air you have is when A/C is involved.

    image

    After having taken apart my center console stack to do that switch mod, I looked at the HVAC and the slider switch for the temp portion. It is purely mechanical at the controls. If I were to take apart the unit and look at the upper selector, I'd expect to see something similar, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Have you gotten any more info about this?

    The BANG almost sounds like a locker in the diff gave.

    But have you tried putting it in 4wd to see if you can get moving THAT way? If you STILL can't move, I'd just about say the chain or something in your t-case or your linkage to your t-case from the transmission went out.

    -Paul
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    i own an 03 rubi, and was wondering stock, could i put 33's on the front with or without spacers. i love the way the 33's fit and look on the back end. :)
    thanks jason
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    took my rubi to the shop the other day and was told the front driveshaft needed to be rebuilt at a cost of $300 :surprise: the front driveshaft only has 2 u-joints(i think??),why is it so expensive???? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds expensive to replace a single 'u' joint, but reasonable to supple and fit a completely rebuilt shaft. It all depends on what you did to the old one. The double cardan joint at the transmission end is a pretty expensive item on it's own. To be fair, why didn't you ask them what was involved and how the price would break down into parts and labor?
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    .i originally took it into the shop to look for a metal on metal rotational noise that started at about 15-20mph and could be heard during deceleration with clutch disengaged. i thought it was a u-joint but couldn't find it.took to shop to locate noise.shop said front drive shaft needed to be rebuilt to cure problem. when i looked at the double cardan joint today i was to see the slop in the driveshaft side u-joint. thinking i can replace the 2 driveshaft joints but cannot find reference pics for cardan joint. still think its high dollar to replace at max 3 u-joints.
    i bought 2 brute force u-joints today for $38,,,is there that muchlabor involved for the cardan universal?? :confuse: :confuse:
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Rubi,
    This might help.
    http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driveshaft/driveshaft-1.htm
    Trust me it is not as easy as it looks.
    But what the heck it's already broke.
    ..might as well get out the big hammer and beat your drive shaft into shape.
    Good luck.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ......cannot find reference pics for cardan joint. still think its high dollar to replace at max 3 u-joints.

    It's the ball centering joint, labor and parts, that adds to the cost. Check out the link burntup gave you, and have a look at this one too.
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    mac24 & burntup thanks for the good info.
    next silly question...i am thinking of removing the DS and taking it to the shop. the jeep is the only wheels i have, so am wondering can i remove the driveshaft and still drive the jeep without any problems???
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No problem at all.
  • texjeeptexjeep Member Posts: 3
    OK here is great issue. 97 Wrangler, turn on the ac, cold air comes out of the defrost and heater vents but will not come out of the panel ac vent? Air conditionor works, cold air, but will not come out of the panel vents?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like an issue with one of the diverter doors in the HVAC unit.
  • shenandacksshenandacks Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 sahara and the only speed the fan works on is setting 4. When I put it on setting 1,2, or 3 nothing happens. What might be causing this?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While it's possible that you may have a faulty switch or bad wiring, it's much more likely that the resistor pack is at fault.

    The resistors are used to control the lower three speeds and the pack is located in one of the HVAC ducts, accessible in the passenger footwell.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Perhaps, but it'd be VERY VERY close both from a height/clearance standpoint and from a backspacing point.

    The stock Moab wheels on the Rubi have a 5" BS vs the 5.5" BS. if you are going with 33x10.5, you'd be fine. 33x12.5's may cause some problems.

    Your height MAY be an issue - it WILL be an issue offroad.

    I'd probably opt for a budget boost (spacer lift) to fit the 33's.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Search back a few pages. This was covered recently and there are some answers there.

    -Paul
  • cornutcornut Member Posts: 2
    Hi i am new to the whole online forum stuff but I am having a real problem with my 2003 wrangler. When driving through town or at a max speed of 45mph my jeep runs fine. When I go about 50mph or faster and I hit a small bump in the road my jeep shakes viloently and i have to pull over and start out slow again. I took it to the dealership before I got deployed and they replaced some parts in the steering and tested a lot of other stuff, and eventually told me that it was my tires. now that I am back from my deployment I want to get my jeep running good but I don't want to waste money on tires if it wont fix the problem. Any suggestions.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Sure sounds like death wobble.

    There are many known causes, but nothing concrete.

    Check:
    Tie rod ends for play and wear
    ALL joints in your steering
    Trackbar connections
    Tire balance
    Tire alignment
    Pitman arm

    Is your jeep lifted? If so, what steering components have been replaced?

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Never had this happen with stock size tires.
    Used to have a similar problem back in the big tire days.
    14x35's and bigger...balancing took pounds of lead not oz.
    Just a little bump and the old Jeep would shake like a washing machine on speed.
    Maybe you can borrow a set of tires and wheels to test out the tire out of balance theory.
    Hey if you were out of country a while you deserve a new set of tires and wheels at the very least. Treat yourself and welcome home.
  • cornutcornut Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. I have already had the Steering stabilizer replaced, so maybe the alignment and new tires will work.
  • moe14moe14 Member Posts: 2
    CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE MY THERMOSTAT IS LOCATED IN MY 97 WRANGLER SE?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yes.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Sorry for smart alec post above, but I couldn't resist. :)

    Seriously, please turn off the caps. I don't like being yelled at this early in the morning. :shades:

    If you follow your upper radiator hose to the metal area just behind the fan... remove that assembly (after draining the coolant). It is in there. I'll even shoot a pic of my 97 SE's engine to show you (but the engine needs a SERIOUS cleaning... you've been warned! :)

    A Haynes manual would cover that basic one for ya, but a Factory Service Manual would be GREAT if you plan on more detailed repairs/maintenance down the road.

    -Paul
  • moe14moe14 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry about the caps, and thank you very much. A picture wont be necessary I know exactly where your talking about. Thanks again.
    ..Joe..
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Here it is. It is behind the grey portion. Even though you didn't need it, others may have a similar question, so posting the pic is worthwhile.

    image

    Removing the hoses and sensors is step 2 (draining is step 1). Remove that front bolt. Remove assembly. The tstat gasket may be holding it on, so using a rubber mallet to strike it gently will break that t-stat housing loose.

    You'll need a new t-stat gasket when you reattach everything, so you may as well put in a new t-stat at the same time. :)

    Hope that helps.

    -Paul
  • ztaijiztaiji Member Posts: 3
    hey, I need help please -
    I have an 1998 wrangler and my gauges wouldn't work for about five minutes while driving, they do now but I dont want this probelm happening again, also, theres a rattle under the jeep and its annoying. so if you guys have any answers with the gauges and rattle please reply. thanks

    zach
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    The most likely problem is with a 13-pin connector that plugs into the instrument cluster.
    The repair kit from Dodge is about "a buck and a half" installed.
    Cheaper it you you can cut and solder.
  • ztaijiztaiji Member Posts: 3
    alright im gonna try it out thanks. How about that rattle? Its near the muffler so I dunno if It's loose or what?
    Thanks
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