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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • jon44jon44 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 jeep wrangler se 4 cyl 2.5 liter, automatic trans, power sterring, no a/c. my radiator rusted through the bottom and it overheated. now it won't start. it's getting fire and fuel. no oil in water or water in oil. any ideas? :(
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Does it turn over at all?

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Sometimes when I push in the clutch I hear a click. It doesn't happen all the time and "appears" to stop when I have been driving for about 20min. Sometimes it keeps clicking each time I depress the clutch I know there is a recall because of some plastic part.
    2006 JEEP WRANGLER POWER TRAIN:CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
    Recall Date: 05/03/2006

    Summary:
    ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD MAY BREAK. THIS MAY NOT ALLOW DISENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED.

    Consequence:
    UNINTENTIONAL VEHICLE MOVEMENT, INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCE, AND ENGINE STALLING COULD OCCUR WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.

    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 7, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.

    Potential Units Affected: 6876

    I called them when I first read this, which was some time ago. I did not have the "click" problem but wanted to know if my Jeep fell into the recall dates. They said that my Jeep was made a month or so after the recall date. A bad batch..maybe but now I hear a click and wonder if that is the sound it makes when it is defective..?

    Any help would be appreciated
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It's under warranty, let them drive it and diagnose it. But get it to em early in the AM when you haven't driven it so they are more likely to heard the clicking noise.

    Mac may have an idea as to what it is, but I know I sure don't. :)

    My 97's clutch is very quiet and works like a champ!

    -Paul
  • I have a new 2006 Unlimited Rubicon with manual transmission. This is my first manual transmission vehicle so I am learning to drive it and maintain it. The owner's manual says...

    "Hydraulic Cluth Fluid - Manual Transmission - The clutch hydraulic system is a sealed maintenance free system. In the event of leakage or other malfunction, the system must be replaced." The engine compartment illustration shows no reference to a clutch fluid cylinder.

    When I look inside the engine compartment, I see a small cylinder next to the master brake cylinder. The small cylinder cap embossment says "Use DOT 3 Brake Fluid Filled to the Neck Line". I followed the tube from the cylinder down to a metal cylinder attached to the transmission. From these observations, I've deduced this is the clutch fluid cylinder.

    Question #1 - Is the owner's manual wrong and the clutch fluid system is not "sealed" or am I observing some other element of the vehicle I'm unaware?

    Question #2 - Inside the cylinder is a removable, cone-shaped rubber bladder pointing down into the fluid reservoir with a very small hole at the end of the cone. Do you check the fluid level with the rubber bladder removed or should you add fluid to the inside of the rubber bladder cone cavity while it's emersed down into the reservoir fluid?

    I'm asking these questions since I'm starting to think my novice manual shift skills have improved and I can no longer blame myself for "harsh" shifting. Granted, I suspect Jeeps are not going to be nice and smooth like a small car but I do get a catching feel in the gates of the shifter itself in gears 1 to 3. I wondered if the clutch pedal isn't fully disengaging the clutch as I feel slight resistance in the shifting to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears and borders on being slighty "scratchy" trying to move through those lower gears. 4th, 5th, and 6th seem smoother and the stick seems to smoothly drop into each of those positions.

    I will take it to dealership for warranty check on my transmission concerns (just read previous post about slight whining noise with clutch not depressed while in neutral...failing throwout bearing??). Just wondered if there's some obvious low-fluid issue I can address first myself. That's what lead me to seeing that clutch cylinder and not seeing it mentioned in the ower's manual let alone how to properly read/adjust the fluid levels in there with that rubber bladder inserted.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There's no maintenance required for the clutch system. Treat it with respect by not resting your foot on the clutch pedal, and don't slip the clutch too much when moving off or changing gear, that's all.

    The most difficult part for most people is learning to do a hill start. It's easier on a vehicle with a hand brake of course.

    If the hydraulic reservoir needs topping up then you have a leak, which is rectified by replacing the the master cylinder/slave cylinder/hose assembly. Fortunately, your warranty will cover it at present.
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    Hey. This is a first for me , I have never written in a forum before so here goes. I posted this in another fourm but I think it should have been here. I have wanted a jeep since my days in the Army. I picked up a third hand, 97, Wrangler, 6 speed in really great shape. I use it for every day driving. I am not a wimpy driver but I do take care not to abuse the vehicle and drive train. After a few months it seamed that the clutch was “feeling funny”, I purchased the necessary replacement parts (clutch & pressure plate, bearings and clutch fork) and opened it up one weekend to make the repairs. I discovered all of the parts in good shape except for the clutch fork. The fork had a groove cut in it that matched the edge of the pressure plate. I observed no marks on the plate and no other deficiencies inside the bell housing. I replaced all the components with new and put it back together. Does anyone know what could have caused the problem? Now after a year and three months the same “feeling” is back and shifting is sometimes difficult. Any ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Guess you lucked out and got an extra gear! ;)

    Actually, if you have got a six speed that could be the problem if five speed clutch components are being used.
    Otherwise, I'm not really sure. The release bearing is a fairly large item and it's hard to imagine it becoming worn to the extent that the fork will contact the pressure plate. Possibly an issue with the clutch fork pivot?
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    You right 6 speed does sound silly, Brain cramp I guess. All of the components the I changed were (as far as I can tell) in very good shape with only slight wear on the clutch plate. The only thing wrong was the fork, it was almost cut 3/4 the way through. How do you check the pivot? could the stroke on the slave cylinder be too long and how can I check it?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    For the fork to touch the pressure plate either the pivot is too close to the clutch, or as you surmise, the slave piston stroke is too long.

    The pivot should be a ball head stud, so make sure someone hasn't replaced it with a bolt. As the piston stroke can't grow on its own, it can only be changed by being replaced with a different item.

    The master/hose/slave is supposed to be one sealed unit, but there are some conversions out there to replace the slave on its own. It should be obvious if the slave has been changed, and if so that may be the cause of the problem. I have no reference for the stroke length, so comparison is the only real check.
  • tphaynestphaynes Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info. I am off to the parts shop.
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    i would like to know how many rotors a 06 wrangler has and if would save money to buy the rotors from auto zone and have them installed.my wrangler shimmies when i hit the brakes going 50mph..at 18k miles is this normal?????????????
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    i had that same problem.one morning after a winter storm i went to clean my windsheild turned on the wipers and it cracked right by the vent.a few days later the crack grew upwards and eventually turned right.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    i would like to know how many rotors a 06 wrangler has and if would save money to buy the rotors from auto zone and have them installed.my wrangler shimmies when i hit the brakes going 50mph..at 18k miles is this normal?????????????

    Four rotors, which if they need to be replaced will be cheaper at the dealer (i.e. free), and you won't have to pay any labor either.

    No it's not normal, which is why your warranty should take care of it.
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    i didnt think it was normal either. i did take it to the dealer and they said my warranty expired so i would have to pay $400 for the front 2. what warranty do you have?????????????????? or should i call daimler chrysler about this????
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You have at least a 36 month/36k mile warranty which starts from the vehicle's 'in service' date. Do you have more than 36k miles?
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    no. i only have 18k miles and and 18 months. the dealer told me i wasnt covered anymore. where should i go???????????
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    My 06 wrangler x had rotor problems the day I left the dealer's lot. I took it back and they replaced them..free of course. This must be an issue since its happening to many.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Congratulations!
    Your JEEP has Chryslerfied.
    Enjoy.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....the dealer told me i wasnt covered anymore. where should i go?

    Either go to another dealer, or contact DC directly.
    There should be information in your Owners Manual on who and how to contact.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    To solve this problem, go with aftermarket rotors and pads. The rotors themselves are not likely warping. I suspect it is more due to the pads and the uneven deposits from the brake pad on the rotor itself.

    My front rotors are gauged (from wheeling and getting stuff stuck). I haven't replaced em since I got the TJ, so I'll be putting on some good quality rotors from NAPA and getting some good performance brake pads (since I have larger tires).

    I don't think the quality of the pads coming from DC is really that good. We had a similar problem with our old Grand Cherokee.

    For the cost of some new rotors and pads (less than $150 or so), you can swap out your front rotors and not even deal with DC about it. It'll likely happen again if you do deal with them.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    ...of course you are not covered.
    Chrysler is going broke again.
    Getting ready to raid the corp. again.
    Maybe some day JEEP will be owned by Jeepers again...
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    so should i purchase new rotors and pads from auto zone and have someone install them?????
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    His jeep should be under warranty...why should he pay out of pocket? My rotors were bad when I left the dealership and they replaced them. They are fine now.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Perhaps you should, as apparently Chrysler is going broke and you have no coverage!!! :surprise:
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    i called DC personally and explained the situation.they say to go to the dealer and pay for the repairs up front, and send them the invoice and they will reimburse me everything but $25. what do you guys think?????????????????????????
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I think you should get that offer in writing! :shades:
  • blitzakriegblitzakrieg Member Posts: 7
    i asked them for something in writing stating the agreement. they said they could not foward me anything either by mail or e-mail.the reference number that they gave me would serve as proof of agreement and they have no reason not to come through with the offer..
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    I would get the promise in writing.
    Sounds like you talked to a good guy, trying to do the right thing.
    Sometimes big companies tend to get rid of the good guys.
    Good luck, really hope it works out.
  • qbert485qbert485 Member Posts: 1
    hi... i have a 2000 jeep wrangler. my problem is that the oil pressure gauge basically drops down to zero when the engine is idol. before its warm the gauge acts fairly normal but when warm it only goes up a little above zero until i'm idol then it plunges and the check gauges light comes on. this is obviously a pressure problem but the jeep seems to run fine and its been going on for more than a year. i'm just worried it's gonna crap out without warning. has anyone heard of this problem and have any solutions before i take it somewhere. thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If your oil pressure was really that low your engine would have seized by now. Most likely you have a faulty oil pressure sensor.

    However, as you've continued to run your Jeep when it was indicating a terminal problem, is there really much point in fixing the gauge issue? Having an accurate gauge is only useful if you're going to take notice of it. :sick:
  • robby7robby7 Member Posts: 4
    Jon, did you find the cause of your problem? I'm having the same problem too!!
  • robby7robby7 Member Posts: 4
    I post a problem concerning the Catalytic Converter. At the time money was a bit tight and couldn't afford the shop. Now I have the money but the jeep won't start to get the jeep to the shop. :cry: Its been sitting for 3 months and boy those 3 months added more problems. The jeep won't start at all!! Charged the battery, nothing. Put in a working battery from a different car, nothing. Check the fuses, ok. Took a spark plug loose to see a spark, which I don't. Could it be the fuel pump? If, so, how can I actually tell its the fuel pump? Can it be the gas filter? I'm thinking maybe its the module? :confuse: Any ideas would be appreciated!! Thanks for the input.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Any codes?
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    You say that the jeep will not start.
    Does the starter engage and spin the crank?
    You also are wondering if it is the fuel pump.
    Are you getting fuel at the injectors?
    Ignition module.
    If you have no spark that is where I would start.
    Do you really not have spark or can you just not see it.
    If you are trying to look at spark in the daylight it's pretty hard to see.
    If you have a friend dumb enough have him hold the spark plug while you crank the engine over.
    Have a cold beer handy because if you are getting spark you will need a peace offering.
    It is also a good thing to be faster or bigger than this x-friend.
    Just as a guess I think the most likely problem starting up one of these fine JEEPs after a 3 month hibernation would be the fuel.
    I would try priming the vehicle.
    Try pouring a little fuel down the throat and crank the engine over.
    If it starts then a lack of fuel is the problem.
    You might have to do this several times.
    Remember gasoline is dangerous.
    Use only a little and use common sense.
    It can hurt you as bad as a friend that you just subjected to electrical shock.
    Good luck.
    Burntup
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Go for the simple solutions. It's been sitting 3 months. What can happen in 3 months of storage?

    Dead battery? Checked
    Does it turn over?
    Spark? No? Check the wiring from the battery. Rodents sometimes eat through or if your battery had issues, the acid could eat through em. Trust me on this one. :)
    Do you have gas? If so, how much was in there? Check the schrader valve on the driver side and see how much gas, if any comes out.

    But it sounds more electrical than anything. With no spark, I'd suspect: Battery, wires, distributor, starter. If your Jeep as a distributor, open it up and check for broken parts in the cap.

    -Paul
  • 39jeeper39jeeper Member Posts: 2
    I have a Jeep 2004 Wrangler Unlimited, 4.0 engine,
    auto trans, genuine gas hog. Has anyone foung a way to improve gas mileage.???? Clue me in.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    genuine gas hog

    So what mpg are you getting? How are you calculating it, and have you checked the accuracy of your odometer?

    Best mileage will be obtained by a combination of vehicle condition and driving technique.
    Clean air filter, clean and correctly gapped plugs, properly inflated tires, brakes that aren't dragging, synthetic lubricants, etc., etc.
    Aftermarket accessories like bumpers, tire carriers, winches, roof racks etc., all contribute to poorer mpg through added weight and wind resistance.

    You don't have to drive slowly everywhere, but heavy braking and acceleration will hurt. Good driving technique includes anticipating traffic and stop lights. Keep rolling at all costs, and keep top speed below 60mph. Use A/C and electrical accessories sparingly.

    So again, what mpg makes you consider your '02 a gas hog?
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    I think the the 06's only came with a 12 month, 12K warranty since it was the last year of the TJ.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    LOL...they couldn't and wouldn't do that. I have an 06 wrangler x and it has a 36,000 mile or 3 year warranty which is standard.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    LOL...was that a delayed April 1st. post?

    Doubtless we'll now be constantly hearing that someone read on a forum 'somewhere' that '06 TJs definitely only have a 12/12 warranty. :shades:
  • 39jeeper39jeeper Member Posts: 2
    am making 13 mpg on Wrangler, I have tried all the suggestions, and it has been checked by dealer for any other abnormalities. It checks out ok.
    I am an experienced driver and use correct driving policies. Still no change in mileage. I have driven Jeep products for many years, and find this one to be the worst in gas usage, am just looking for any tech way to improve it.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Actually, 13mpg is at the lower end of acceptability. That doesn't mean you have to like it, but on the other hand you're unlikely to ever get better than a true 15mpg from the auto.
  • bman73bman73 Member Posts: 1
    The automatic Wrangler is geared to high if you chunk the 373 gears and put in 411 you'll get 3 to 4 miles better
  • sherribc1988sherribc1988 Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 1999 Jeep Wrangler and the dealer said he just put in a new manifold. Month later I have this loud rattle under the Jeep, which increases with acceleration, but after driving around for awile the rattle seems to diminish. Some one suggested removingthe heat shield. Any other suggestions?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Bang on your catalytic converter with a rubber mallet. If it sounds like marbles rolling around, you get to replace the catalytic converter. You MAY be eligible for the recall/TSB that addresses the catalytics failing. Sorry, don't have the number for it though.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The automatic Wrangler is geared to high if you chunk the 373 gears and put in 411 you'll get 3 to 4 miles better

    I disagree. The 3.73 is very well matched to the characteristics of the automatic transmission when used with tire sizes up to 31".

    Even if an increase of 3-4mpg were possible, it would take a very long time to recover the expenses incurred for the purchase and installation of the parts required for re-gearing two axles, even at todays gas prices.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    As erickpl said, it could be the cat. However if it is the heat shield rattling, which is quite possible, have it secured properly rather than removing it.

    The Wrangler's floor gets pretty hot as it is. Without carpets you couldn't put your bare feet on it. Allowing it to get many times hotter won't benefit you in any way.
  • sherribc1988sherribc1988 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for all this advice!!
    Very Helpful!
  • sherribc1988sherribc1988 Member Posts: 5
    I have a Jeep Wrangler 1997 and catalytic converter needs replacing. I did see online Chrysler Extended the warranty on the catalytic converters 10 years/120K miles. This was from a California EPA EPA settlement. Does this apply to only CA jeeps or is this warranty nation wide. I called 2 dealerships, they punch in my VIN # and they say not covered under a recall or extended warranty. I guess I will have to pay for the repair.
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