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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    From my experience you might have better luck in you can locate an old established dealership.

    Do not ask about warranty on the phone. Make an appointment for the repair. This makes you a customer, not just a "looky-lou" bugging them on the phone.
    Look for the old mellow dude in service. He is probably the one who can help you.

    I had a cat. replaced at a Dodge dealer (brand new high volume bright shiny place). Three days in the shop. I paid the whole bill.
    A month later the truck was still not running right. Stopped in to an old Chrysler Dealer. Red brick and wood floors. Some of the furniture looked like it was from the 40s.
    They told me the wrong Cat. was on the truck and was causing the problem. They replaced the Cat. muffler and tailpipe, tune-up and an oil change. No charge. Took about 40 minutes.

    Good luck,
  • rcookiercookie Member Posts: 2
    i was driving at about 30mph when the clutch pedal just gave in, completely flimmsy i couldnt push the clutch in to change gears. then while pushin the limp clutch pedal, it got stuck or jammed. i drove home changing gears without the clutch. i think its the clutch master cylinder. any advice?
  • rcookiercookie Member Posts: 2
    by the way i have a 2000 4.0 wrangler
  • ssabinessabine Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler that in the first two minutes of driving will fall on its face between temperatures of:
    150 deg. and 190 degs
    If you drive through it everything is fine. If I go to the mall and park it for a while it starts all over again. Going down the road it only last for 300 - 400 yards. Watching the temp change it goes away before 210 on the gage.
    Any ideas?
    Scott
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Step back, take a look at your TJ.
    It has all the aerodynamics of a brick with a sail.
    13-15 mpg is about all it will ever get.
    Anybody that tells you they do better just lie.
    The same motor in a Cherokee will do about 20 mpg.
    You pay to play.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    I think your jeep has drain bramage.
    Probably terminal.
    You can watch it die a slow and painful death.
    It would be better to do a Dr.K on it.
    1 high velocity 240 grain 44 caliber round in the throttle body should do the trick.
  • harleyfanzharleyfanz Member Posts: 1
    When I push the dash switch to engage the air lockers, both the REAR LOCK and FRONT LOCK lights on the dash flash continuously. I don't believe that the lockers are engaging, either. Any ideas as to what the problem may be?
  • merkurxr4timerkurxr4ti Member Posts: 1
    Got a fun one for you guys. My baby is at Aamco right now and they don't know what to tell me. '98 manual 4.0L with standard axles and a positraction rear and 20k miles (yes 20!). For some reason over the past few weeks its been squealing a rear tire (inside I think) when I go around turns hitting the gas even lightly, but only when I hit the gas, then there is a snap/clunk noise and the squealing stops. It's been getting louder every week until last night it did the same deal but the wheel just seemed to lock and I ended up facing the road I just drove down. Let me know if anyone has the slighest idea what is happening to my jeep.
  • sherribc1988sherribc1988 Member Posts: 5
    I just removed the skid plate to my 97 Wrangler to install an new exhuast system. Bolts holding it in place were welded. Not sure best way to reinstall the skid plate, tap bolt holes to screw in new bolt, or have dealer reweld it back in place? It is difficult to find the correct size tap for the bolts.
    Looking for any advice.
  • mudchickmudchick Member Posts: 1
    I've heard there were problems with dash lights in previous years' models, but has anyone had experience with the air bag light in the 2002? For five years I've had issues with the engine light coming on regularly, but never the air bag.

    Any ideas?
  • gsergotgsergot Member Posts: 1
    Hey, new here and been having a problem with my 99 Jeep (6 Cyl Auto) not shifting into gear. It usually goes into 1st fine but when it's going into 2nd the engine revs up then it jerks into 2nd or 3rd.

    Any advice? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's often associated with a faulty clockspring, or a bad ground to the same.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are several things that could be causing the problem, but there's little you can do yourself to fix it, though you might, just might, get away with a band adjustment (and of course a fluid and filter change).

    Generally, the nice thing about the 32RH transmission is that it reached the peak of it's development with the Wrangler. With the exception of rare QC problems which will usually show early in its life, the 32RH can usually be expected to last the life of the engine, which can easily be up to and beyond 250K miles.

    The exceptions are when it's contaminated, usually by water, when it's abused, usually by overheating, and when its servicing is neglected.

    Servicing is simple, cheap, and often ignored. It consists of fluid and filter changes, preferrably at 12k mile intervals, with band adjustment at the same time.

    That's it! :)

    If you want some extra insurance, especially if you tow, then add a transmission cooler and external filter for less than $100 in parts.
  • bradfordnyebradfordnye Member Posts: 3
    My blower quit working on my Jeep. I already threw some money at the problem with some new fuses and a new relay. If I take off the blower relay cover and complete the circuit by hand I can get the blower (and the AC/heat) to kick on (high speed only), but no luck when I just use the AC control knob. Any ideas? Could this just be my blower resistor? It also looks like my air bag light came on about the same time - not sure if that's a coincidence or not. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I already threw some money at the problem with some new fuses and a new relay.

    Had the relay and fuses that you replaced actually failed, and if so, did the new ones fail too?
  • bradfordnyebradfordnye Member Posts: 3
    mac24:

    No, relay and fuses ended up being fine and the new ones haven't failed.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If I take off the blower relay cover and complete the circuit by hand I can get the blower (and the AC/heat) to kick on (high speed only), but no luck when I just use the AC control knob.

    I take it you're using a link to bypass the relay. So, it sounds as if the circuit from the relay to the blower is good, and if the relay is also good, then the fault lies in the circuit that activates the relay. In that case, the most likely suspect is the switch itself. Just use a multimeter to check it.

    Failure of the slow speeds is usually related to a resistor failure, but a faulty switch may also do it. If you're lucky a new switch will fix both issues, but check it before changing it. If it's not the switch, it'll be an open circuit in the wiring between the switch and the relay.
  • bradfordnyebradfordnye Member Posts: 3
    Thank You. I'll definitely check the switch before I shell out any more cash.
  • annhickeyannhickey Member Posts: 1
    I'm in need of some advise. I have 2004 Jeep Wrangler X with 30,000 miles, and I bought it with 31" tires. Within the last month I have noticed a terrible shake in the jeep. It seem to happen after riding for long periods of time or driving in a place with lots of pot holes or bump. It almost feels like my tires are about to fall off! Any suggestions on what it could be??
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like one or more worn steering components. You could mask the problem by fitting a larger steering damper, but I don't advise it. That would be like taking pain killers for the axe in your head.......much better to remove the axe!

    Finally, although it's unlikely your tires will fall off, you should get it checked out as soon as possible. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix and it won't get better on its own.
  • 4green4green Member Posts: 1
    Hi fellow Wrangler owners. I have a 2004 Sahara that has a distinctive rattle/whump-whump from the right front when starting off. It's only prevalent then. Definitely sounds like something from the front drive line. I have only 10k miles on her. Anybody having a similar problem or have had?
  • lenny1563lenny1563 Member Posts: 3
    my tj has 93,000 miles and within the last 2 weeks i have been going through a difficult time. when the engine is cold and warming up too a 190 degrees the engine acts and sometimes stalls, even while driving. once the engine has warmed up to 190 degrees it seems to run okay. giving it some throttle i seem to lose power and i begin to backfire and start bucking ( all this before 190 deg.)I have replaced the IAC and map sensor, the cap and rotor and plugs. still have the problem. the engine light does not come on and cant seem to get any codes. I also ran sea foam through the tank and no changes. any suggestions. possibably an O2 sensor, whats left?
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    Been there and done that on my 98 Sahara. Your O2 sensor is not necessarily bad, but it's probably a crack in your exhuast manifold causing you O2 sensor to react. I went through everything (and I mean everthing) trying to figure out the cause of this problem. As your cracked manifold goes through its heat range, the crack expands and allows extra air to pass over your O2 sensor causing it to try to adjust the mixture. I think Mac is the one the pointed it out as a possible problem. I called 1A Auto Parts from their website # to get a manifold. After giving the guy on the phone all my info, he guessed that an exhaust manifold was what I was going to order. He said it is a common problem that Chrysler won't address. Never the less.... after installing the manifold and a new O2 sensor for good measure, it has ran like a top ever since. Good luck and let me how it turns out!
  • vafirmnvafirmn Member Posts: 3
    Check behind the vent selector knob, there should be a plug with three wires on it. Check those wires there may be a bad connection. thats the problem i had.
  • vafirmnvafirmn Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like the front hub needs to be replaced. Cost about 140.00 to 150.00.
  • vafirmnvafirmn Member Posts: 3
    Try replacing the crank positioning senser
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Try replacing the crank positioning senser

    A faulty CPS should throw a code. At least check before replacing it.
  • lenny1563lenny1563 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. Last spring i had replaced the exhaust manifold because the factory one had broke near the bottom, so i put the after market one on (the one with the flex bends). I will have this one checked just incase. again, thanks.
  • sopman44sopman44 Member Posts: 2
    About a week ago my friends and I were going down the highway at about 60mph. All of a sudden there was a loud bam and my driveshaft flew out behind the car. I got the driveshaft and both yokes and u-joints replaced. there is still a massive vibration from 10mph on. Everything in the car shakes even the steering wheel. The dealership said it was safe to drive, but it just seems to get worse. I'm guessing the straight shaft connecting the driveshaft to the transmission while in 2 wheel drive is bent? Its a 97 sport 6cyl with an ax15. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! :sick:
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    NO...
    It is not safe.
    Who ever said it is safe is an idiot.
    You need to find another dealer to fix this thing the right way.
    A drive line problem that is so bad the whole car shakes can kill you.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    What Burntup said. Additionally, do you have any suspension mods, a lift etc.?

    It's an unusual failure and I'm wondering what caused it in the first place.
  • sopman44sopman44 Member Posts: 2
    no lift...only mods are a magnaflow exhaust and cold air intake....i went to pass someone...dropped into fourth and about 15 sec later it came loose...maybe the rust from the salty air finally got to it...It hasnt been off-road in about a year due to college. Spent about $1000 on the driveshaft/ parts/labor....so I'm wondering whats next... :sick:
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    >Look for the old mellow dude in service. He is probably the one who can help you.

    Hah! That is so true.

    -Mike
  • Fair-warning...I'm a vehicle DIY maintenance novice so what you're about to read may make a normal guy either cry, laugh, or cry laughing because I'm so naive about such basic knowledge. I often ask myself if I deserve owning a Wrangler but I figure you have to start learning somewhere...With that said, I hope you'll get over your tears of laughter and throw me some nuggets of basic maintenance understanding... :blush:

    I have a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited with 22,000 miles. I've always had the dealer doing oil/lube every 3,000 miles but I wanted to start doing routine maintenance myself. I did the oil change using Quaker State Synthetic 4x4 "Torque Power" (sale at Menards got me into it) with a new Quaker State oil filter.

    Here's my question...I wasn't sure exactly the "right way" to do the lubrication part of the process. I'd like to know the proper way to do a "lube job" on a vehicle.

    I bought Pennzoil Premium Wheel Bearing 707L Red Grease to be sure I met the manufacturer specifications in the user manual (Pennzoil fact sheet showed it being used for all wheel and chassis lubrication and meeting the specs in my user manual for chassis lubrication). I bought a grease gun and a rubber extension tube.

    During my first attempt, I found maybe five or six zerks on the bottom sides of steering control arm component joints which I cleaned and gave a few pumps. I noticed the rubber covering on each (are those called bushings?) bulge a little with each pump of the grease gun. I didn't want to do more than a few pumps of the handle for fear I was "stretching" that rubber "balloon" and might damage it.

    1 - Should I pump in the grease until I see the rubber cover start to expand or is that already too much if it starts to expand?

    2 - Should I keep pumping until I see some old grease come out from somewhere?

    3 - Should I keep pumping until I see new grease come out to indicate I've "flushed-out" the old grease?

    4 - How many zerks should I be finding on the front end of a Wrangler?

    5 - Are there any zerks in the rear end I need to lubricate?

    6 - Are there any places I need to grease that don't have zerks and you just have to rub it on?

    7 - I see zerks on top and bottom of the front wheel hubs where the axle connects to them...I squeezed some grease into those but in hind-sight wondered if those are the "wheel bearing" zerks and I shouldn't have done that.

    You guys are always so helpful that I should have asked first before trying but I didn't know what to ask until I got under the Jeep and tried it. Thanks for any help.
  • lenny1563lenny1563 Member Posts: 3
    Okay, i have checked out everything and i have replaced everything as well and i still have the problem. Someone has mentioned the crank positioning sensor, whats your opinion.
  • thatcarabeththatcarabeth Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have any suggestions???

    -My jeep will out of nowheres start shaking really bad. To the point where I have to stop. The whole thing shimmies violently its hard to keep the stearing wheel under control. I cant take it on highways anymore. Does any one know what to do about this?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Details would help.

    Have you done anything to it? Lift, new tires, balance, rotation, etc?

    Specs on it would help.

    My first inclination is to rotate and/or balance the tires. After that, check all steering components (track bar, drag link, tie rod (and ends), etc for looseness and tighten up to proper torque spec.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Hi thatcarabeth,
    At times JEEP will shake for different reasons.
    Some times more violently than others.
    Most often these shakes are because JEEP misses the dirt.
    If you and JEEP do not spend enough time off road Jeep will have Dusty Trail Withdrawal Shakes. DT's for short.
    Whenever JEEP gets the DT's it is best to head for the trail. If there is no trail near just jump a curb and let JEEP wander across any unpaved surface. This will delay the sever DT's but is only a stop-gap measure.
    For a long term solution it is best to cancel you insurance throw away you tags and drivers license. Rip off JEEP's top and leave the paved surfaces behind.
    Topless in the dirt is best for JEEP and Jeeper.
    You and JEEP will be much happier.
    ...or balance your tires.
    JEEP forever...forever JEEP.
  • thatcarabeththatcarabeth Member Posts: 3
    Lets see the tires have been balanced and rotated, there is a 2 inch lift. I got a new stabilizer bar put on it. Its got new suspension.
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    This is often called "death wobble"
    As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
    Check tire pressures
    Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
    Lifts can aggravate wobble
  • Got the following response from a well-respected member in our community and I thought his comments might help someone else wanting to know more about lubrication basics...

    1 - I usually pump until it expands, then give it two or three more depending on how swollen the boot is.

    2 - No, but don't worry if grease does come out. Just stop pumping at that point.

    3 - No, because it's not flushing all the old grease out, just lifting the boot at its weakest point.

    4 - Seven (from memory).

    5 - No.

    6 - Not really. You can grease handbrake and t/case linkages if you want, but it will retain dirt/grit and may do more harm than good.

    7 - Those zerks are for the joints and not the wheel bearings (which are sealed). You were correct to lube them.

    Occasionally you'll find 'u' joints that have been replaced with one that have a zerk. If so, then grease them until it starts to come past the seals. Same applies if you find zerks in the slip joints on the propshafts.

    Don't worry about a boot splitting when you're pumping. It just means the boot was at the end of its life anyway, and better it splits when you can see it rather than on the road when you can't.
  • march72march72 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, you guys seem knowledgeable. I have a 2001 Wrangler 4.0. My oil pressure gages moves like my speedometer. If I am at a stop idel, my check gauges light comes on. Would this be a sending unit problem or could this meand my pump is going bad?
  • bmmiddendorfbmmiddendorf Member Posts: 2
    I've have a recurring issue that I've yet to solve on my own. Every couple of weeks, my check engine light comes on for my 97 Wrangler Sport. I when I check the codes I get 12, and 43. 12 is the power to the PCM was disconnected, and 43 (what I'm most concerned about) is a detected misfire in a piston; I don't have the diagnostic tool to check which piston. If there anything that I can do the further isolate the problem?

    In addition, asked a previous question about my blower fan only working on high. I replaced the resistor pack behind the glove box, but I still have the same problem, and from reading through the posts, it seems that I have to replace the switch, but I'm not sure where this is located, or what part I need to get.

    Thanks for the help; I finally have a place to go to get some good advice on how to work on my jeep.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i suspect one of my keys may have fallen into the wrong hands... can i have the locks and ignition switch rekeyed by a locksmith or do i have to order a new set and have them installed?

    its a 1998 wrangler sahara with full doors...
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    i have 90,000 miles on my 03 Rubi and i am going to drive coast to coast. i am going to pull a trailer and want to make sure i have no clutch problems. i am told with the 03 rubicon all i need is the disk & pressure plate.
    i am told i will not need a throwout bearing. is this correct???
    i also believe, i need a pilot bearing as i have changed these on every old manual trans i have changed.

    will i have any problems with an upgrading to a centerforce 2 clutch?? any chance of it blowing out my slave cylinder?

    thanks in advance for any advice

    cheers
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Is the present clutch malfunctioning?
    If not, LEAVE IT ALONE.
    If it is, the OEM Jeep pieces should work fine.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    i was going to change it so i did not have to worry about it starting to slip somewhere between Cali & NC, and over 3 mountain ranges. i have to pull a 6x12 covered trailer lightly loaded (4 wheeler,bed, and luggage) across the country. the clutch is not slipping at all at the moment. i was taking the distance, total milage, and trailer into consideration when thinking about changing the clutch.
    another thing...my rubi does not like maintaining highway speed up a CA Highway 15 incline without down shifting.

    these are the reasons i am considering replacing the clutch.

    thanks & cheers
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Benefits that a Centerforce gives only come in at high rpm.

    It's normal to have to change down on an incline as fifth is effectively an overdrive gear.

    If changing the clutch will give you peace of mind for the journey.........go for it.
  • bones1369bones1369 Member Posts: 9
    mac24,
    i have taken your advice before and it was right on.
    so would it be in my best interest to change it?

    P.S. would it help my fuel economy any?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    mac24,
    i have taken your advice before and it was right on.


    Flattery is always appreciated! :)

    Clutch life is related to both load and technique.
    At 90k your clutch could either be close to the end of its life, or barely halfway through.

    However, I think it would be in your best interest to change it, regardless of the condition of the clutch. If you don't you'll be worrying about it every time you hit a hill or a headwind, which is going to really spoil your trip. :(

    Finally, it'll only help your fuel mileage if your present clutch is already slipping.
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