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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

1101113151641

Comments

  • cooleyddcooleydd Member Posts: 105
    The other evening as I was driving home with my wife a little before sunset at about 30 MPH I heard a thump and assumed I had hit something. Neither my wife or I had seen anything in the street. I continued to drive home (3 blocks) and the car drove normally - no change.

    When I got home I examined the front of the car (drivers side) and saw nothing unusual but noticed the back right tire was flat. I got out the jack and changed to the spare. Upon looking at the tire I found no apparent damage to the tire other than it was obvious I was driving with the tire flat.

    Upon closer examination of the wheel itself I found a gash in the wheel about 6" long and elevated up into the tire area over an inch. Of course all of the air escaped through the gash - no blowout. Went to the dealer (3800 miles on the CXS) and they determined I had hit something in the street - no warranty coverage. Cost for new wheel and tire - $1002.00

    Went back to examine the road (no potholes) and finally found a rock off the side of the road that apparently caused the problem. It was a rock, flat on both sides about 2 1/2" thick and about the size of a red brick only oblong. Have no idea how it hit the back tire and not the front.

    I am convinced that had the tire been an older 15" or 16" tire the tire would of absorbed the hit and not damaged the wheel. Of course it may have blown a tire but the wheel would of been in good shape.

    With the roads becoming so bumpy with potholes I now worry about hitting a bad spot in the road and having the same thing happen again. I carry a $1000 deductible insurance so insurance will not be involved. (In 50 years of driving I have not had an accident that was my fault or any other damage to one of my cars - so I carry a high deductible).

    Just a word of warning to those who have the 19" tires (and probably the 18") that a bump in the road may do more damage to the fancy aluminum wheel that the tire. Of course the wheel is much more expensive.

    And I wonder at the design of the wheel, knowing the tire size and the short distant from the wheel to the tire thread, if the wheel should have a thicker layer of metal than one might expect with the older tires. Seems to be that this might be something which should be turned into the powers that be (GM or the Feds) to have an investigation as to the building of the wheel.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Most likely you hit the rock with the front wheel. The impact and the tire rolling off of it caused it to jump up slightly and it probably was sitting on end or edge when the back tire got to it.

    This is the same thing that happens with nails in the road. The front tire hits it and it lifts up and part of the time is sitting upright as the rear rolls over it. I recall only one time getting a nail in the front tire and I was behind a semi truck on a rural highway and felt something ping and found a lead ringed roofing nail for metal roofs used on barns in my front Michelin. The nail was still bouncing from the semi's tires when my front tire got there.

    I too don't like the thin tire concept. We can thank those who think that fads are wonderful and criticized car companys who didn't accept the low profile tires as behind the times.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 50324lacrosse50324lacrosse Member Posts: 21
    My LaCrosse would do this on occasion when I backed out of the garage into zero degree temps. Suddenly I would hear one or more loud tapping noises from the rear of the car. In my opinion it was the exhaust heating up and causing the metal to expand. I have not heard it in the warm temps. Judging from the number of posts, it's not an isolated incident. In my case, the noise is best heard from outside of the car and was like someone was hitting a piece of steel with a hammer.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrosse
  • johnh7johnh7 Member Posts: 67
    1) I feel badly for the guy with the vibration - something is definitely wrong and needs to be attended to.
    2) I think Buick should have a fix for those of us who bought packages that included a blind spot alert (that was not delivered). While I personally opted out of some of the Lacrosse add ons, this one is definitely one I wanted and still want. Importantly - I paid for it.
    3) Anybody who lies awake at night worrying about gas being siphoned from his or her car should not buy a Lacrosse. Personally I love not having a gas cap release lever, but obviously others out there feel differently. I tend to fill my own car and I much prefer just tapping the cap than reaching down to hit some lever before exiting.
    4) My seat memory works just fine. You do have to hold the button to go from position one to position two. I'm guessing you might have to keep your finger there for a second (maybe two if there's a big difference in the seat set ups), but in my mind at least, this a another yawner. Maybe that's because I tend to be the driver of the car most of the time and hardly ever need to flip the seat position; nevertheless, flipping it is very easy.
    5) If you have trouble exiting this car, you should not buy a Lacrosse or any other car in its class. I couldn't bang my knees or feet getting out of this car if I tried (and I'm 6'1"). The car slides back when you flip the door handle. It returns to its position when you reenter, but only if you've locked your car and hit the open button on your key. If you left it unlocked you do need to push the side control to slide the seat forward a couple inches. People come in all sizes and shapes, but one thing is indisputable - this car is very roomy, both up front and in back. If you can't fit comfortably in this car and enter and exit with ease, you probably need a car in a different class than the one the Lacrosse is competing in..
    6) You clearly cannot see the front end of the car when you are driving or parking. This is not unique to the Lacrosse but it's a fact. Anybody who can't figure out where the front end is should not buy this car. For me this is not an issue. If you do happen to tap the front end of the car when parking, you'll be tapping the license plate frame and not your car.
    7) There is a trunk release button on the key. When the car is unlocked the trunk is easily opened manually. Opening the trunk shouldn't be an issue for most of you. I know it isn't for me.

    PS I have a CXL. It's possible there are software issues in the CXS that is causing some to experience things that I'm not.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >People come in all sizes and shapes, but one thing is indisputable - this car is very roomy, both up front and in back.

    I sat in one in a showroom a couple weeks back. I was shocked by how much room there is in the back seat along with the front seat. It was roomier than a Park Avenue for legroom.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    edited July 2010
    In Car Connection's test drive they wrote, “the 17-inch-equipped models rode noticeably more comfortably and quietly than the 18- or 19-inch models, where stiffer sidewalls transmitted more road noise into the cabin.”

    I am not sure when this was written but isn’t the touring package and HiPer strut suspension system with real-time dampening for the suspension supposed to compensate for that? Or is that the classic tradeoff for handling versus cushy ride comfort?

    .
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    3) Not lying awake. Gas is cheap right now. Someone stealing gas is one issue. Then there are those who would maliciously put something in the tank.
    According to the Myth Busters, sugar does nothing, but they tried several other things as well which some of them killed the car.
    Your wife starts for home in darkness and driving through a secluded area the engine suddenly dies. The perpetrator has been following her the whole time.

    I was merely suggesting using one of those toggles that has the switch built in and running the two wires to the already existing security system.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Certainly the tradeoff is valid as a general condition.
    Were the tires all of the same model? But then even that being so the possibility exists that the design was good for a 60 series tire but not for a 50 series. A good design will overcome much of the disparity when changing sizes.
    I don't remember what is the standard size for each model or to which the optional sizes apply. To the best of my knowledge, only the CXS has the touring package available with H-arm suspension. The "build your own" did show the H as standard on CXL(FWD & AWD) and CXS at the beginning of the year. I can not vouch for that as accurate, but it was a few months later that it showed up at the same site as an option on the CXS. I've seen discussions that say it will be available on CXL 2011.
    So, depending when the review was done and options on that model, there could be a wide mix of possibilities.
    Perhaps the author could give more info?
  • 1ststate1ststate Member Posts: 9
    I have an early model CXL with 19" wheels and h arm touring package. I can tell you the ride is harsh throughout. I can't see any difference at all between normal and "Sport Mode" I have a love hate relationship.... I love the looks of the 19" wheels on my silver CXS but hate the ride they generate....
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    We picked up our new Lacrosse CXL after months of searching and trying to sort thru the various dealers offers, current rebates and new features choices.
    WOW! What a beautiful great driving vehicle. No miles to evaluate initial driveabilty, butt he first impression is very positive. Low engine speed at 65, due to 6-speed,
    V-6 engine and 2.77 final drive ratio augers well for highway mileage- any ideas on what to expect relative to EPA estimates?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    "Exactly", what tires are on the vehicle? Tires, regardless of the vehicle, can make a huge difference in the ride quality.
    CXL, CXS, are you saying you have two?
    How does one compare to the other?
    If you can not detect a difference in the modes, you might want to chat with your salesman and maybe he can give you a demonstration. Hopefully he is more knowledgeable than the cashier at WM.
    I have no idea how the sport mode is applied. 1) Thoughts are that it could be special valving in struts that is electrically applied. 2) Air type struts that adjust the height and portion of the strut stroke that is used. Sort of like the vehicle that used to advertise by showing a bar it could not go under at low speed. More stroke for handling potholes, etc. But at high speed it sailed right under that bar. Presumably, if you are driving fast you have good surface and lowering the CG gives better handling at high speed.
    Do you know exactly how it works?
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    As I read through the literature on ride comfort, handling and real-time damping it seems as though they are referring primarily to rear-wheel drive vehicles. So, is the following quote by GM marketing hype or grounded in automotive theory?

    “CXS with optional 19-inch wheels and Touring Package feature a more sophisticated H-arm design that uses the same attachment points as the four-link system but with the cross member attached via isolated mounts. The lower H-arm replaces the basic trailing link, delivering a greater ride quality and lower noise.

    The Touring Package also includes real-time damping and Sport Mode Selectivity, which uses four electronically controlled dampers to constantly “read” the road and make adjustments within milliseconds.”
  • 1ststate1ststate Member Posts: 9
    My typo, The car is a CXS, took delivery Aug 2009. It has Goodyear 19" tires on it. Don't know engineering wise how the sport mode works. It shows "Sport Mode" when the shifter is moved to the left. The rides doesn't change at low or high speed. It is interesting in the one post about ride being quieter with H Arm suspension. My biggest complaint is at low speed in town, sounds like there is something loose under the car. Dealer has checked and said it is "just the road".......
  • enphanenphan Member Posts: 23
    I assume you have front wheel drive. Mine is CXL front wheel drive V6, 18" wheel. I use 91 premium and here is what I observe
    at 65 mile/hour - 30 miles/gallon
    at 75 mile/hour - 28 miles/gallon
    Note I use 91 gas, if I use 87 I expect less mileage/gallon.
    Here is what you should do
    go on highway, drive at constant speed such as 65, choose the trip/fuel from the turn signal on the left (see manual page 4-27) hit reset, then see the mileage / gallon.
    Note: If you don't reset, it will carry over the old data, just average everything from day one and give you a very low mileage / gallon.
  • burnrubburnrub Member Posts: 7
    edited July 2010
    i also have 2010 cxs with 19inch wheels and touring package. i agree that the low profile tires are noiser over rough pavement, but they are pretty quiet on smooth surfaces.

    i think the car absolutely drives differently in sport mode than it does in touring mode. in sport mode, it feels like the the shocks' "stroke" shortens up and you feel feedback much faster than in touring mode. the ride also stiffens so that there is much less bounce when riding over bumps. an obvious way to feel the difference is to drive the car over a few speed bumps under both modes. you can drive much faster over the bumps without the car bouncing all over the place in "sport mode". and lastly "sport mode" creates much less body roll/lean when travelling on windy roads. and frankly, i think a car as big and heavy as the lacrosse feels a lot lighter on her feet when driven in sport mode.

    the difference between the two modes is real and if you can't feel the difference, either something is wrong with your car or you have an unshakeable sense of equillibrium.

    so yes, the 19's are more noisy, but i think they handle great.... but just in case i change my mind, i've got an extra set of OEM 18inch chrome wheels/tires in my garage that are just begging me to try them out :)
  • 1ststate1ststate Member Posts: 9
    Funny you should mention that you have a set of 18" wheels. I was ready to press the button to buy a set, but wasn't confident enough that it would solve the concerns. Please let me know if you try them........
  • burnrubburnrub Member Posts: 7
    i'll put them on in the next few weeks and post the results.
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    Just received a call today that the CXS I ordered on May 15 is finally here. Somehow it feels kind of anti-climatic and instead of feeling excited I feel indifferent. Now its my turn to put a little pressure on them so I going to take my time and let them sweat it out.
  • burnrubburnrub Member Posts: 7
    2 months isn't that long to wait for a built to order vehicle. when i ordered my custom BMW it took 2-3 months to get it. (of course BMW had a pretty nice internet tracking system where you could follow the progress of your order throughout the production process.)

    it seems like everyone is complaining about having to wait, but that's industry standard for building custom cars. why do we expect the domestic OEMs to produce the cars so fast, but don't expect the same from foreign OEMs like BMW?
  • tomi60tomi60 Member Posts: 6
    The dealer worked all day yesterday to try to improve the AM reception on our new Lacrosse. The fix was recommended by the factory but resulted in little improvement. I tested the radio in three other Lacrosses on the lot and they all had bad reception. Anyone else have this problem and able to resolve?
  • cleo10cleo10 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the suggestion but I always turn the HVAC system off before I shut off the car. I have had my husband stand outside the car and also have heard it myself with remote start. Sounds like a wrench dropping under the car. I'm starting to think I hear the "clunk" more consistently when the outside temperature if over 90 degrees (which it has been lately)l. I have an appointment for Monday, 7/19, to see if the dealer can find the problem. Thanks for the help.
  • cleo10cleo10 Member Posts: 6
    I'm starting to think my "clunk" is more prevelant on really hot (90 degree +) days. I kinda agree with your suspicion about the exhaust. The "clunk" is a second after the engine starts -- almost as if it is associated with the first "puff" out the exhaust. Definitely seems to come from under the car and can also be heard on approach with remote start but never if I start the car a second time in a relatively short time sapn. Usually, the car has to sit a couple hours and then it will "clunk" again. I have an appt. Monday at the dealer. Wish me luck in explaining all this!
    Thanks!
  • mtwaletmtwalet Member Posts: 10
    Did you know that when you engage a left or right turn signal on a Buick Lacrosse, the corresponding Daytime Running Light (DRL) goes out until the turn signal is canceled??? Better for frontal visibility I suppose.

    I've never seen this on another car.
  • tbone_raretbone_rare Member Posts: 96
    WOW! That's quite a list of things you don't like! I'm curious why you purchased it if you hate it so much
  • tom2246tom2246 Member Posts: 29
    Anyone have any experience of the magnetic steering assist - either negative or positive? :confuse:
  • 50324lacrosse50324lacrosse Member Posts: 21
    Do you have HID headlights? I do not have then on my CX and the drl's to not shut off when a turn signal is on.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrose
  • mtwaletmtwalet Member Posts: 10
    "WOW! That's quite a list of things you don't like! I'm curious why you purchased it if you hate it so much "

    My wife wanted a car with 'OnStar'. I told her to pick one. Since the Lacrosse was a new design, why not. Then again it's a first year car that needs some bugs worked out.

    We gave up a Toyota Avalon Limited fully optioned for the Buick. The Avalon was an '07 with less than 12k on the clock. I never had any problem with the car and I guess I kinda got spoiled and expected more from the Buick that has received so much hype. Never said I hated the car, just disappointed.
  • mtwaletmtwalet Member Posts: 10
    "Do you have HID headlights? I do not have then on my CX and the drl's to not shut off when a turn signal is on.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrose "

    The car does have HID headlights.....very bright!
  • doc15doc15 Member Posts: 37
    Yes,Yes Yes,
    Please read my old posts. I had same problem with my Lacrosse. Back and forth to dealer. Finally happened when I was with Buick Mechanic. ----- Clunking sound was coming from the long "BAFFLE" on the exhaust system. Would sound like a wrench hitting the floor at times. Had them replace entire exhaust system. Cleared the problem.--Parts had to be ordered. Takes a few weeks. Had them put the info for it in the data base. Let me know if it helps you.
  • kplacerkplacer Member Posts: 97
    Sort of a hypothetical question: if you had an opportunity to buy a new 2010 CXL with the 3.0 engine at a good price, is it worth taking? I am wondering about the engine since as we know the 3.0 is being discontinued in the Lacrosse in 2011. Is the engine a liability in the car or does it perform reasonably well?
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    My father has one. It goes ok. I think that the lack of hp was the reason for the change. Hopefully as things progress, the 304 hp version will make it into the CXS.
  • cleo10cleo10 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks doc15 . . . .the car is at the dealer now. Not the best first experience taking the car in. They already said that it might just be the way it is?????? If I get too much of a run-around, can you give me more specific info (like the dealer who worked with you)?
  • tbone_raretbone_rare Member Posts: 96
    We have one of each on our lot. The 3.0 does alright. IMHO the 2011 has a lot more pickup and has a better feel to it. We're selling either one at $100 over invoice. There is a $1500 incentive on the 2010 and $1000 on the 2011 if you meet the qualifications. At least they're in place in south central Illinois. Lots of dealers in this area are still trying to sell them at sticker.
  • Those that use LRD running lights do that as well (e.g., Audi).
  • enphanenphan Member Posts: 23
    I can not believe you did not test drive several times and doing lot of research about this car features before spend $30+K to buy it and now feel bad about the car.
    Vibration definitely need to be fixed.
    Other things just may be different from what you used to. The thing that I agree to is difficulty to see when backing up due to big head rest. Front sensor would add cost and they replace with other features such as side mirrors tilting down in reverse etc.
    Any way, Buick may allow you to return in 60 days offcourse you have to pay some fee (not very sure about that, but you could check with the dealer.
  • mtwaletmtwalet Member Posts: 10
    I test drove a loaded CXS AWD. I was impressed with the ride and quietness for an AWD vehicle. I played with all the buttons and whistles and liked what I saw. I ordered a CXS figuring the AWD rode and drove great, the CXS would be out of this world. Sometimes we get carried away in all the hoopla and get overwhelmed by a new car. I failed to notice the down sloped hood, the knee banger getting out of the car, and a few other things. These are things you normally experience through driving a vehicle and trial and error. I have been used to Cadillacs and probably had my expectations set too high for the new Lacrosse and it's appointments. They all look great on the TV commercials. As far as the vibration goes, any new car can suffer that and I guess my new car is no exception. You can't plan for something like that. The most recent fix for the vibration is to replace all four tires and check the toe. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know. Not my problem....just my inconvenience! Since I took delivery of the car May 4th and somehow managed to amass 900 miles on it, I doubt GM would take the car back. It would be nice if they built me a duplicate and said, "try this one and no hard feelings". Like that is going to happen. ;)
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Short answer is H___ yes! We picked up our 3.0L CXL last week (7/9) and returned today from 1700 mile road trip. 29 MPG at 70-80MPH with air on and car loaded into the hills of WV and PA. Upcharge for 3.6L V-6 on 2011 was major consideration due to I-4 base engine. 29 MPG is good for any car at highway speed+ but outstanding for 4100# car. Performance was outstanding in all respects, with A/C system superb in 95 degree temps. VERY quiet car. Car is set up for economy with final drive of 2.77 - same as our old Bonneville. Keeping revs up on hills with overhead cam high rev engine makes driveability excellent. Trouble may be finding a 2010 that fits your needs w/o loaded up CXS . The driver info centers are truly inspired and intuitively programmed for all needed inputs.
    Great car! Good luck
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    See our message #646 regarding the 3.0L 2010 CXL IF HP was the ONLY reason GM would not have made the I-4 the base engine with upcharge of over $1000 for 3.6L. With the same stroke the RPM's with the same final drive 6-speed s/b the same. Bigger bore with more cubes equals more torque in my opinion. Both V-6's drive the car very well so choice makes for a happy purchase. Highway mileage for our 3.0L 2010 CXL was 29 on first tank of "regular" not premium. OUTSTANDING.
    Note also that the 3.0 and 3.6 are used in other GM vehicles with similar results when matched with 6-speed and low final drive gear. Good luck in your search.
  • anonymous17anonymous17 Member Posts: 4
    I've got 4500 miles on my Lacrosse CXS. The oil life remaining per the message center is 54%. At this rate the expected oil change would occur around 9k to 10k miles. I want to believe this but it sure cuts against the grain of traditional oil changes every 3 to 5k miles . Any opinions out there on whether to follow this guidance or go with an earlier oil change ?
  • kplacerkplacer Member Posts: 97
    Personally I prefer to go with oil changes at no more than 5000 miles. Given some of the reports I have read about Cadillac 3.6 engines having problems despite what the oil life monitor indicated I would not want to wait until the computer told me to change the oil.
  • tbone_raretbone_rare Member Posts: 96
    I tend to agree with kplacer. No way would I go 9-10000 miles without an oil change. You also have other basic maintenance items to think of as well that can be done at the same time. The tire life on any vehicle is going to be greatly enhanced by doing a regular tire rotation as well. My dealership suggests the 3000 mile oil change....and a tire rotation every other time. Just a humble opinion.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Member Posts: 105
    I figure the computer is pretty smart and I will bypass the old ground into our brains 3000 miles between oil changes. I expect the 3000 miles was established back into the Model A days. With the materials they build the motors with and the tolerances and the quality of the oils I will go without an oil change until I am told by the computer to make the change. The GM warranty and extended warranty will honor these figures as taking good care of the car. I know oil changes are cheap these days and the dealer usually does a "safety check" at that time to see if anything else is needed. But I figure I can get by in that 8000 to 10000 mile period for the change and safety check. After years of "brain washing" I am trying to clear the old time ideas out of my head.

    I will rotate and balance my tires every 6000 miles.

    What are the rest of you doing on alignments.
  • bt06bt06 Member Posts: 32
    I stick to the 5000 mi services myself. I'm just over 5000 and have an appt next week. The gauge says I still have like 60% left but since it's new I'm sticking to the 5k "rule" for service visits. I plan to have this car for a while so I'd rather be a little conservative then set myself up for potential issues down the road. JMHO.
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    Hey, you may be replying to me replying to someone else. I have a CXS w/ the 3.6, and both longer trips I have taken have netted 29 MPG. I know I can do better too.
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Cooter: Thanks for the comeback. 29 is exactly what we got on our 2010 CXL
    with 3.0L. I drive 5-10 over in friendly states so 75 with A/C on and 30 is what we were looking for on the road. Dropping the spped will get that easily. Great cars
    with all the latest bells & whistles plus outstanding road car to replace older GM's.
    Car weighs 4000# and gets mileage of a much smaller lighter car. 18" wheels and tires, traction/stability control and a fantastic interior made for a great drive!
    Thanks again. Crankee
  • cooleyddcooleydd Member Posts: 105
    I did change the oil at 3000 miles - new car. Will make the next change at 8000 miles and then go by the computer. Just thought I should do this during the early miles.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    edited July 2010
    Unless the car is getting a lot of cold starts and short trips in cold weather (Ohio?), I feel perfectly comfortable with regular quality oil going to 6000 and higher. Another exception might be a car driven in city traffic in extremely hot conditions. However, GM's excellent oil life predictor adjusts for those.

    I do my own oil changes and just went 7500 on Platinum synthetic and had it tested. The additive package was still 3.5 which I was told was very good. That means the additives were still good out to 10,000 which is about when the oil life indicator in my 3800 leSabre would have said 10% or less. The oil life sensor is geared for regular oil; so synthetics bring a whole new life to oils. However, I will probably change the filter without changing oil at 5000 if I run to 10,000 or longer on a synthetic. I'm using standard Purolator filters and PureOne filters.

    The 3000 mile oil change back in the 60s and 70s was with oils with weak additive packages of detergents and protectants compared to today's SM rated oils. The technology in the oil molecules was not as good as it is today either.

    I see no reason for someone to go shorter than the 6000-7000 miles the tires should be rotated in my own mind. If you pay a shop to do it, combining jobs into one trip is an advantage.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Of course your dealership is going to suggest 3,000 mile oil changes. But changing oil at 3,000 miles is very wasteful--unless you only drive 3,000 miles a year. New oils and new engine tolerances allow for much greater intervals than that. And now some cars are even better off NOT having the oil changed during the break in period.

    If you really are cringing at 10K oil changes, then use synthetic oil. Much better for your engine anyway, and you still do something for the environment by not pouring away your still serviceable oil before its time. Think of the oil saved if everyone stopped the 3,000 mile changes (except in extreme environment or low mileage conditions).
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Thanks for the detailed reply. The tip on how to get the instant MPG from the
    menu is a clever use of the diagnostic software. After we posted the question we took a 1700 mile trip. The 2010 CXL 3.0L had 186 miles on it and the first average tankfull on the computer was 26.7 the next was 28+ and at the third the reading was up to 29.0 for the 680 mile trip average I drive 70 -80 when limit is 70/75 so we were very pleased with the average. We use regular since the sales guy advised 87 or sometimes 89 but no 91 in his opinion.
    The car is geared for maximum mileage and tries to shift up as soon as possible so we find that on big hills it prefers to be going faster and/or revving up to higher RPM's to avoid seeking or shifting gears. Same as our old Cadillac 4.1L. The 2.77 final drive is same as our old Bonneville that got fantastic highway mileage due to low RPM at 70 MPH. This Buick has the same setup for the highway, not dragstrip, which is exactly what we wanted. Great car, with fit and finish among the best IMO. Interior, lighting, diagnostics and driver information with Bluetooth and OnStar for safety. Trunk is long not wide but holds lots w/o folding seats down for more room. All in all a great car at a great price.
    Thanks again for the info.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited July 2010
    2010 Equinox owners have discovered a number of their cars burning excessive oil.
    And some finally showe up at the dealer wondering what all the clattering was about. To find that there was no oil left on the dipstick.

    But the real message in all this, is this: The oil life monitor was still saying there was thousands of miles use left in the oil!

    I think you were very wise to do 'premature' oil change at 3000 miles. 1000 to 1500 would have been better still of course. So few do nowadays, but they don't understand that as the oil filter clogs prematurely with initial engine wear, the bypass valve opens in the filter and all the unfiltered oil is free to circulate the engine. Even if owners didn't want to change thir first oil early, but swapped out the oil filter for a new one, they would be so ahead of the game.

    I suggest always using common-sense. If some things seem to good to be true, often that is exactly the case.

    As for the computer being pretty smart and assumedly not ever lie to you, lol...it is only as good as the initial program and software rules that it operates from! Right?

    Always let common sense prevail is my advice.
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