2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

kplacer · July 2010

Oil life monitor is not an oil level sensor. Until they stop putting dipsticks in engines, that is what they are for. Unfortunately there are far too many dipsticks behind the wheel.

imidazol97 · July 2010

>have discovered a number of their cars burning excessive oil.

I'm not sure how this is related the LaCrosse.

The owners manual says to check oil every certain length of time. I check mine at least once a week and at gas fills on long drives. I do that for sure with a new car.

The quality name brand oil filters don't clog in 3, 4, or 5000 miles. I suspect they don't clog in 8-10,000. My leSabre manual doesn't say to change the oil filter during the time the oil goes 10,000 in ideal conditions.

The oil life does not measure the oil level. There is a separate sensor for that on SOME cars. I do not know if the Equinox 2010 is one. I would think it does have one. But the driver is responsible for reasonable care in checking oil levels.

crkyolfrt · July 2010

I guess I wasn't clear enough when I said "but they don't understand that as the oil filter clogs prematurely with initial engine wear". Key words there were "initial engine wear". And yes, filters will clog prematurely from a brand new car and leaving your first oil change too long. Filters are often reduced in length due to tighter and tighter engine compartment real estate, and by doing so, of course there is less internal area for filter media. Will the engine probably last the wty period? Well yes, they engineer that lifespan in. And modern oils are nothing short of incredible with its capability. But the level has to be kept up. Those owners who had no oil showing on the dip stick would have had less than one quart of oil left in the engine. And when that small amt of oil is left to circulate and do all the heat dissipation and lubricating of a normal 3.5 to 4 litre capacity, it breaks down faster and faster the older and more abused it becomes. And when that starts to happen, the engine will start to burn it at a greater rate. So before u know it, you have an accelerated condition of oil starvation.

Engines, though, are among the least prone to premature failure if the design is good, and it gets proper, regular maintenance. Very few owners actually interpret the correct oil change interval when they look at "normal usage" and "severe service". If you read carefully between the lines you will see that the vast majority of us actually fall under severe service even if we never venture onto a dusty road, for example.

You have a far greater chance of auto tranny failure or other assoc driveline issue, (especially on AWD systems) than you ever do with the engine itself.

And coolant changes are also quite important, but not as important as never ever overheating your engine even once. Once is all it takes to have huge and expensive ramifications down the road.

Anyway, I might be chatting above your heads here. I'm sorry if I am. I am a mechanic and not just talking through my hat.

This is where I will use the proverbial phrase...YMMV.

crkyolfrt · July 2010

lol, ain't it the truth..

imidazol97 · July 2010

>I might be chatting above your heads here.

Not here. I rebuilt motors when I was in high school and have degrees that enhance my understanding of the technology.

I fail to understand how you're saying a new engine is going to clog the filter short of a catastrophic failure of something within the motor...

crkyolfrt · July 2010

If you are going to take issue with what I am saying, i request that you do so with all associated context. If you fail to do that then I won't debate further with you and will be inclined to suspect you are trolling.

One thing I will mention that has changed over the years is there is less crosshatch cylinder debris on newer engines, which in years past contributed among the greatest quantity of debris. But I don't intent to get into some sort of squirting match with you. If you can't see the positive advice I have taken the time to attempt to share, then that is your loss.

imidazol97 · July 2010

Your statement IN CONTEXT:

>2010 Equinox owners have discovered a number of their cars burning excessive oil.
And some finally showe up at the dealer wondering what all the clattering was about. To find that there was no oil left on the dipstick.

>I think you were very wise to do 'premature' oil change at 3000 miles. 1000 to 1500 would have been better still of course. So few do nowadays, but they don't understand that as the oil filter clogs prematurely with initial engine wear, the bypass valve opens in the filter and all the unfiltered oil is free to circulate the engine.

I'm waiting for your explanation of "initial engine wear" that clogs the oil filters and causes the Equinoxes to somehow burn their oil...

I doubt the cylinder wall wear emits enough particulate matter to clog any quality filter on a modern car to a noticeable degree and especially not on a new motor during the first couple of oil changes.

My first oil change on my last new car went the normal mileage. That's what this discussion is about--how long a laCrosse owner should go for the first oil change... so the discussion is relevant to the topic at hand.

My advice drive it and change at whatever is going to be your regular change interval. GM put in quality oil at the factory and a quality oil filter.

>If you fail to do that then I won't debate further with you and will be inclined to suspect you are trolling.

I recommend you report me to the hosts as a troll. LOL.

crkyolfrt · July 2010

I SAID: (but you so conveniently left out when u thought you would try to screw me around with a PARTIAL context quote)

"And yes, filters will clog prematurely from a brand new car and leaving your first oil change too long."
Key words, again.....are TOO LONG.

And please, I never once said anything about that being the reason the Nox's were burning oil. How would anyone know at this point that was the cause? So quit trying to strengthen your argument by putting words in others mouths!

And you reiterate in agreement with my crosshatch remark, yet you manipulated the way you said it to try to make it look like I wasn't acknowledging this difference in a modern day engine. If you think your oil filter is so clean after its first replacement, then set your (self-proclaimed) degrees aside for a moment and get your hands dirty enough to cut the filter open and look for yourself. If it's so clean you shouldn't have any problem spreading what's there on your toast. :roll eyes:

And yes, if your argumentative inclination is considered tolerable by whatever mods are here, then let's find out. If you are a person of honour you will report yourself. Otherwise let's publically ask others here and/or a mod whether they perceive you as attempting to b**l bust or not?

Why do people do that? They hide behind their computer, leave crucial context out of what has been said all in pathetic attempt to give some perfect stranger a hard time. It's warped and sadistic. Is that what your (self-proclaimed) degrees have done for you? I have a couple of people looking over my shoulder here that all agree to not take you for real, so we're done with you. And i have been far more considerate to your enquiring post than you have been to me. But that's all you get.

As for your LOL'ing, that is what we all did simultaneously here when you quickly pulled the degree card out into play, heeheeeheeeeee

I will bow out of interaction with you here on this thread now, you can be master of your domain again here where it sounds like you have a mod in your pocket, so don't sweat it.

buickdawg · July 2010

AGREE with you 100%...Bought a 2009 Lacrosse last year and changed my oil the first time at a little under a 1000 miles....Have had several mechanics tell me to do that as metal slivers and other pieces of debris are often in new engines....Did the same thing with my previous car a Chevy Monte Carlo....Never an engine problem in nearly 15 years, even though it had the much maligned 3.1 in it, I kept the oil changed regularly with Mobil 1....Normally changed it every 3-4,000 miles.....You take care of a car and it will take care of you....

e_net_rider · July 2010

"GM put in quality oil at the factory and a quality oil filter."
You are either not aware or forgot the 10W40 issue from a number of years back. It resulted in sticking rings and excessive oil useage. What I heard was that it was only Valvoline causing the problem, factory fill as well. So as not to point the finger at Valvoline, GM said stop using 10W40.
And I damaged an engine running Mobil 1 or so I thought. The engine called for 10W30 and I used 10W40 for two years with an annual change. Then the parts store had some 10W30. I noticed that there was a big difference as I poured it in and noticed it looked more like regular oil. By 6K I had used a quart. by 8K I had used two quarts. By 10K I noticed it was looking pretty nasty on the stick and I changed it. I bought a new case and noticed this looked more like the Mobil 1 10W40 I had previously used. Engine continued to use oil. I called Mobil and after some time the guy on the phone admitted that regular and synthetic were bottled on the same line.
A cousin was an oil jobber. They took base stock and mixed in the secret ingredients per formula of the brand and then distributed. I don't know that oil is done this way anymore, but this had been a common practice with many products, especially if water is a big component. It saves on distribution costs. Example bleach. The concentrates are shipped to a local plant where it is diluted, bottled, and labeled.

Point is, if someone made a mistake would you even know what happened when you started using a quart every thousand miles?

imidazol97 · July 2010

There's at least one oil discussion topic here on Edmunds, and in this thread the oil is diverging from the topic of first oil change on a LaCrosse, so I'll suggest draining the oil to the new location.

Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

imidazol97 · July 2010

>GM said stop using 10W40.

Check your carspace email.

bwia · July 2010

The 19"-inch wheels are nice but break dust is an "occupational hazard". Anybody knows how to keep the wheels relatively dust free, short of using ceramic break pads? And speaking of ceramic brake pads is that just for genuine exotic sports cars or is it available for the CXS too?

I've read the manual and cannot get the memory seat to work as described. What am I doing wrong? Tips and secrets are appreciated.

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kjs8 · July 2010

The memory seats on the LaCrosse do not work. GM is working on a fix for this problem for the past 6 months. Can it be that almost every GM car offers memory seats but the ones in the LaCrosse can't be made to work after 6 months? The dealer can't do any more for the customer if GM isn't focused on fixing the car's problems. GM, not the dealer, also told me that the rear backup camera is not designed to work in full sunlight or in damp weather and that the intermittent white lines or blank screen is normal. I came from another brand and their camera worked flawlessly. Does GM think a customer is stupid?

johnh7 · July 2010

I guess I've already posted something similar, but I have a CXL and the memory seats work perfectly on my car. Whether or not they work on the CXS is another matter that I can't speak to.

enphan · July 2010

Exactly what problem you have with seat memory? Mine works well.

Tip 1 when set the memory, push memory button first then push #1 or #2 to set memory (reason, the index finger tends to touch the #1 button before the thumb touch the memory button) and it moves the seat instead to set the memory

Tip 2: push and hold button #1 or #2 until it gets to the final position, release halfway will stop the move.

asctony · July 2010

Have been off the forum for a while. However, do receive emails on new postings. I also have a problem with poor AM radio reception. It must be the radio since my other car and also my daughters has excellent AM radio reception using the same station(s) and location here in MI. I will be taking my CXS 2010 into dealer next month and have them check it out. I did have problems with radio months ago and they re-programmed it. So, I will report back next month on AM reception. Sorry I can't provide anymore at this time.
I am still waiting on the proper Wheel Locks since 10/2009.

johnh7 · July 2010

Had my first service yesterday, Can confirm for those like me who have a 2010 and thought they had ordered this feature, there is no fix, nor will there be one. You need to have a 2011 with the right package to get it. Oh well.

adpcs · July 2010

I can answer this one:

1. If you use the easy exit system, the seat moves back when you open the door to get out, but when you come back in the car, about 50% of the time it just stays way back, until you press and hold your memory seat position to return it back to the normal position.
2. The press and hold system is the stupidest thing possible, why not just press and release the memory button?
3. If you have programmed the key fob to the driver, that does not work either. For example, I have a key fob and my wife has one. If she unlocks the car using her keyfob, the memory should automatically adjust to her settings, and vice versa. That doesnt work.

I have a CXS which just crossed 5000 miles.

johnh7 · July 2010

Check and see if it's really 50% of the time or simply it returns when your car is locked and you use the FOB to unlock it and it doesn't return if your car is unlocked and you simply open the door with the handle.

That's the way it is designed to work and that's what my car does - every time.

adpcs · July 2010

This is what is happening. I turn the car off, open the door, the seat moves back. I lock the door, come back an hour later, unlock the door by pulling the handle, and about 50% of the time, the seat moves forward, the other half, it just sits there in the exit position. So, then, I have to hold the button down that corresponds to my memory seat to put the seat in the correct position.
The seat moving back and force should be tied to the ignition being turned on / off and not to the door opening and closing.

johnh7 · July 2010

All I can tell you is when I hit the unlock button on the FOB, the seat always slides back. When I don't have the car locked (e.g like when it's in my garage) and simply open the door, it never slides back.

imidazol97 · July 2010

Reading closely it sounds like adpcs is unlocking the door without using the FOB? He's just pulling the door handle and, I assume, the car unlocks because of the presence of the key transponder in his pocket.

You are using the FOB to unlock each time?

Do I have it right from the posts?

johnh7 · July 2010

Correct

I'm hitting the unlock button on the FOB

kjs8 · July 2010

You are exactly right with your explanation as mine does the same. There is a GM Bulletin out on this flaw and they are working on a fix for the function of the seats. One approach is to tie it into the push to start button and the other is to initiate it on a door unlock command either through the outside handle or key fob. Who knows when it will be available? The side alert that many of us paid for as part of the package and did not get, your right there is no GM documented upgrade to install it on 2010 models. The wiring is there but GM does not want to go to the expense of changing out the mirror assemblies on delivered cars with side alert versions. I bet as an assembly they are expensive.

cooleydd · July 2010

If I am going up a slight incline and at a very slow speed and I slowly try to speed by slowly pushing the acclerator - I can almost floor it before the car responds. I also notice this going up a steeper hill at a higher speed. Other times when I floor it to quickly get out of the way of something - it just doesn't move as it should. It also happens on an incline on a freeway entrance when trying to get up to speed.

I have had this to a dealer who says nothing wrong. I am taking to a second dealer to see if they can get to the bottom of it.

Has anyone else noticed this and if so what was done to fix it. As it is now it is somewhat on the dangerous side if I need to get out of the way of something.

Any help would be appreciated.

imidazol97 · July 2010

Try moving the pedal quickly to gain speed. And do that more frequently. I suspect the computer adapts to your typical driving style. If it senses you want quicker response and that's your typical pattern, it will react quicker.

If it senses you want slow easy, economical driving patterns, it will give that adapting over a period of time.

adpcs · July 2010

Exactly correct, i only use the passive entry system, the key never leaves my pocket.
i am waiting for the new software also...it gets tiring to hear the dealer say "I've never heard that happening before!"

asctony · July 2010

After reading this forum, I have seen many outstanding issues that GM/Buick have open and no 'Get Well Date.' Here are the ones I know about. Can we add to this list and have someone/GM/Buick address these issues?
1. AM Radio Poor Reception
2. Memory Seats
3. Side Alert
4. Wheel Locks
5. Engine Oil %
6. .......
Thank you all for helping to identify and resolve some of these issues. My main take on these are that we should not be trouble shooting these, GM/Buick should be. Dealerships should also be aware of these issues, too.
I know these are somewhat minor issues, but they are the kind of things that make an owner loose confidence in a Company/Manufacturer/Dealership, etc.

What is your opinion?

asctony · July 2010

Months ago I had some Required Field Action:(RFA) items I identified on this forum. RFAs that I had fixed on my CXS 2010 and what the corrective action was.

I was hoping that others would identify and post the RFAs that they experienced.

Maybe I have missed seeing them on this forum. If I did miss them or you have not posted them, please let us know so we can be advised ASAP, rather than waiting until we go in for service. Thank you.

kjs8 · July 2010

I have had a great relationship with the dealer, It's GM that is not supplying fixes in a reasonable amount of time for my CXS. I took delivery in early January and within weeks had 6 issues, seats, bluetooth, backup camera, door panel fit, alert mirrors and hesitation. Each issue has no fix offered from GM and the dealer has contacted them on each issue and GM says a fix will come or the issue is normal. Well, each week when one of these things occurs I'm reminded of this lack of concern on GM's part and I wish I had not made this purchase. And this is a great car... I went to a second dealer and their service manager actually told me that GM took a perfectly good LaCrosse model for 2009 and destroyed it with all the electronics that don't work in the 2010. The dealers are frustrated too. I've been asking for six months when will the software fix for the seats be done. Gm has no idea.

cooleydd · July 2010

Do we know for sure that the computer has the ability to adapt to one's driving. It is certainly possible to have adaptive programming but it is not easy and I wonder if GM writes that kind of code. Do you have any documentation on this.

asctony · July 2010

I originally posted this back in March 09 and have never seen anyone else post any Required Field Actions (Service Updates.) Am I the only one who had these or any other problems like this? I was hoping that we could all contribute to this list to ensure that others are aware of these RFAs. If you feel it is a waste of time just let me know and I will not post these anymore. Thanks for your time.
Type Number Description Posted Date
YT 09279 Trans Shift Cable Engagement Inspection 10/16/2009
YT 09295 Power Steering (PS) Fluid Leak at PS Pump 11/09/2009
YT 09319 Battery Drain 12/08/2009

Service Information Items
EI 10009 Chemical Damage on Inner Surfaces Fuel Tank 02/03/2010
EI 10030 Keyless Access System Passive Entry-Start
Key Fob Inoperative (PIE0050) 02/19/2010

crkyolfrt · July 2010

Yes. It used to be called Fuzzy Logic . Used in auto trannys for many years now. I imagine the newest tech expands on this more than in the past.

But as has been mentioned, if you were more aggressive with your shifts/accelerator pedal (i.e burn more gas forcing the tranny to relearn a new acquired desire that may only last until you get to work trying to not be late) then it can learn that you want it to shift sooner. And can relearn that you want more sedate shifts later after measuring a softer touch for awhile. But this very thing is why I maintain we ALL would still be better off with manual transmissions. And if you can drive a manual and understand what it means to transfer/balance/manipulate engine torque to the wheels, and then to the road, then it proves a greater confidence behind the wheel. Anyone who can drive stick, usually are safer drivers when the roads turn slippery too.

Anyway, at least in Europe they still offer many manual trannys in a greater choice of cars. And they manage to do autobahn speeds with no more incidence of crashes than here. Imagine. Over there they drive. Here we (most) are basically only sitting behind the wheel.

cooleydd · July 2010

Sounds reasonable to me. I will drive more aggressively for awhile and see if it makes any difference. I do naturally tend to drive "softly". By the way with over 60 years driving experience from Model T's, trucks and lots of different autos I agree to your comments about stick shifts. However it is much easier to let the automatic transmissions (and any fuzzy logic) do the work. And when driving in San Francisco you really learn to appreciate the automatic transmission.

crkyolfrt · July 2010

And when driving in San Francisco you really learn to appreciate the automatic transmission.

Yes, I sure could see that alright. And in stop and go on freeway parking lots of course.

I meant to mention that what you described earlier seemed extra unusual though. It sounded like the engine lacked power and responsiveness to a greater degree than just caused by lazy tranny shifts. Let us know how it turns out ok? and good luck

Don't forget, you can make the tranny shift into lower gear by manually moving the shift lever, so you might try that the next time it seems extra lazy on a bad hill. Just don't forget and leave it there of course..

cooleydd · July 2010

I have tried to get it to happen in the lower gear via the shift level and have had no luck.

It really seems to in a gear and seems not to shift (up or down) or accelerate - there is a long pause and then it will kick in. It is hard to duplicate but scares one a bit when it happens. I will drive more aggressively to see if it changes anything.

crankeee · July 2010

We picked up our new 2010 Lacrosse on 7/8/2010 and when we asked the new
car salesman about the field checks or service updates he said that they routinely check for any outstanding items not eliminated at the manufacturing plant. He had the answer right away so we felt comfortable that all outstanding RFA's had a standard procedure to make sure they were "cleared". You post alerted us to that concern so we asked. BTW, the car has been oustanding after 2K miles only.

bwia · July 2010

So there is a problem with the memory seat after all. After some frustrating and unsuccessful attempts to get the memory seat to work I took the Lacrosse back to the dealer with the expectation that a technician would explain what I was doing wrong. But the fault was not with me but with the memory seat module.

The dealer ordered the part and it should arrive in about a week. The fix appears to be an elaborate job as it will involve removing the seat to install the new module. I hope the techs are well trained because I would be upset if they make matters worse by improperly reinstalling the seat. Nonetheless, I will give an update as soon as the problem is corrected.

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asctony · July 2010

Thanks for your response. I guess my concern is that there should be some way of finding this out from On-Star, or going directly into GM/Buick by VIN online to see if your car needs any work. Normally cars are not brought into the dealership until you need work or an oil change. I firmly believe that it would to everyone's benefit if we could somehow track new problems.

cooleydd · July 2010

Any idea as to the part number?

asctony · July 2010

Is there an RFA on this, too? It makes it much easier to go into a dealership with all the info such as PN, RFA, etc.

bwia · August 2010

Here is a link to some helpful information on the seat memory function
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2010/01/memory-seat-functions.html

e_net_rider · August 2010

It seems to me that this could be two pronged, maybe the tranny, maybe the fuel programming. In older GM, circa throttle body injection, TBI, the computer would learn your driving habits and try to adjust fuel accordingly. Some of the early TBI still used an accelerator pump. That would boost the fuel input so you did not get too lean during opening the throttle plate and get stall due to fuel starvation. Even with fully computerizing that you would need that gulp of fuel with any sudden acceleration to avoid starvation. That sudden blast of fuel would likely mean a poor burn, ie pollution, poor economy. So it is likely they have programmed the increase of fuel to match the increase of RPM, tied together on a graph.
With no load the engine would rev fairly quickly. But with a load the revs are restrained and therefore the amount of fuel added. Therefore the computing for the tranny shifting would be delayed because of time lag. A faster/better computer system might be helpful.
On the shifting end of it, everyone seems to agree that using the paddle shifts has a big delay. I've tried it and find it near useless. And if you find yourself in a situation where you suddenly desire manual control, you have to reach to the shifter. My thinking would be that using the left hand paddles to engage/disengage that mode and the right ones for actually shifting would have been a much better design. And maybe incorporating in the mode one a double switch requiring activating both front and back of switch with a squeeze so you don't accidentally engage. This could eliminate a safety/durability delay that might be in play.

bass21279 · August 2010

I've had my loaded CXS for about 2 1/2 months now. About 3300 miles. I did notice the hesitation when accelerating sometimes in the beginning. I have not noticed at all after the first few weeks. I did drive more agressively and I do believe it adjusted. I have also noticed more power coming from the engine after the initial break in period. I do have the blind spot alert and the updated front suspension (Hiperstrut). I don't use the memory seats, so not sure if I would have an issue or not.

bwia · August 2010

I did a dumb thing yesterday but was it much ado about nothing.

While in the city I was trying to park as close to the curb as possible when I scratched my brand new 19 wheels. Upset that I had damaged my wheels I left the car disoriented with the fob in my pocket but without shutting off the engine. When I returned about two hours later the car was still running. By the way, I was in a building across the street some 60 feet away.

My question, is it possible to drive the car away without the key fob (transponder) being in the car? And if so, how far away can you drive without the engine cutting off?

asctony · August 2010

I did the same thing a month ago. I would have thought that the engine would shut off once the fob was at least 3 - 10' away. That is something that is very easy to do. Good thing that you were not low on fuel. Then you would have never figured out why it would not start. LOL
Don't feel bad. At least we both did it and how many more have done it or will do it?

bass21279 · August 2010

I did it too. But this is weirder. I was driving my friend home one night, he gets out of the car, grabs what he thinks are his keys from the cup holder and goes inside. I drive away, miles away. Not until he calls me do I realize he grabbed my keys. So basically once the car is on, it won't shut off automatically regardless of where the FOB is. You just wouldn't be able to start it again. I guess someone wouldn't have to start it again once it got to the chop shop...

bass21279 · August 2010

bwia:

I did the same thign to my rim. Have you looke dinto any options to have it replaced? Would this be worth an insurance claim?

asctony · August 2010

What a false sense of security! You can go without the fob once it is started, regardless of time distance, etc. But you can't start. Got to be someway of changing that via software. Not something anyone wants to do.

2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

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