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Hyundai XG300/XG350 Maintenance and Repair

UltragamesUltragames Member Posts: 4
in Hyundai
Ever since I got my 2002 Hyundai XG350L, the oil light has faded in and out. It will be totally off for days or even a week at a time, and then it will be "on". I say "on" because it never just lights up like any of the other lights. Rather it blinks ever so lightly as i'm driving. When I accelerate, it goes off completly, and when I brake or idle, it comes back brighter.

I know that the bulb/LED for my oil light is working, because when I start the car, the light has full solid brightness.

Does anyone have any idea why this light would be fading in and out, and sort of blinking slowly? It never reaches full brightness, and the car doesn't drive any differently when it's on.

By the way, I did get an oil change just to see if that fixed the problem, and it did not.

Thanks.
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Comments

  • cardinal09cardinal09 Member Posts: 2
    Trying to acertain the OEM of the car radio for 2004 GS350. Anybody having issues with their radios? AM (while dead to most of the world) still provides some programming of interest to niche audiences. Too much static on the AM band and no ability to eliminate it. Can't hold a signal from a station less than 10 miles away.
  • carman41carman41 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 XG350L and have had radio issues. My radio comes on by itself and then switches between am/fm to cd at time. I had it replaced under warranty and now it is doing it again and hyundia is not going to cover it because I am out of the radio warranty, even thought it is doing the same thing. I called their main customer service line and had a case set up. It took over a month and they declined to do any kind of goodwill adjustment. Has left me a very disappointed with my vehicle. I was told to buy a aftermarket radio and have it installed. Thought that was a pretty poor answer. Has anyone else had that issue?
  • mark149mark149 Member Posts: 7
    Hello all, I have a 2002 XG with a loud noise in the rear supension.I know where the noise is coming from but when I went to the dealer {parts dept}they were unable to tell me what I needed. It has to do with the shocks/strut.Anyone else have this problem before?
  • ghbrownghbrown Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 XG350. The radio worked fine until 2006 and then started with the on/off by itself - switching between CD / radio by itself.

    I added an aftermarket CD changer in 2004 -- so it's wasn't clearcut to me that it was the radios fault.

    In any case, I am now replacing the radio with an JVC KWXG700 - getting mp3 capability is a good trade off.
  • shaky4shaky4 Member Posts: 25
    Mark:

    I just replaced rear struts on my 01 XG (80000 miles) because of the suspension noise. It cost me $650 but made a huge difference. The suspension is sophisticated and soft sprung (for that floaty ride) and 60-80K is what you'll get from it, lesser if you live in NYC.
  • dlcpadlcpa Member Posts: 1
    Interesting how all these radios turn themselves off and on. Mine too. I want to replace the radio for my 2001 Hyundai xg300 and the opening is so big you'd think a double din radio would fit inside, yet there are no kits to do it. Perhaps you don't need a kit but according to Crutchfield's all double din radios do not fit.

    A very nice and knowledgeable person in Texas told me that it might be that the radio is a false front and it really isn't that big and there are things behind it like duct work that necessitates an overall smaller radio.

    What do you all think?
  • johnny49johnny49 Member Posts: 2
    Error code P0715 comes up and my 2001 XG300L intermittently jolts to 3rd gear when driving along the hwy. I'm told input speed sensor for the transmission is bad...Where is this sensor??
    -johnny49
  • UltragamesUltragames Member Posts: 4
    I have had my check engine light come on a total of 3 times now. Each time I have taken the car to Schucks and had them read the computer error code for free. All 3 times the computer was reporting a small emissions leak.

    This does NOT happen after I get more gas, and I have checked that the gas cap is closed and clicks multiple times.

    The Hyundai dealership wanted $95 just to diagnose it, so I was hoping someone here had a magic solution for the problem. Any ideas?
  • ineedajobineedajob Member Posts: 12
    It’s coming on because the oil pressure is low. Either you have low oil level in the car, low oil pressure (or regulator) or a bad oil sending unit (which is your most likely candidate). I would check the oil level first and make sure it is up to the mark, then I would put a mechanical gauge on it by removing the sending unit and see what it says. Remember, when looking at a mechanical gauge the pressure WILL fluctuate a lot, low at idle and high at highway speeds. If everything is within specs with the mechanical gauge (see the manual for the specs), I would replace the sending unit (should be relativity inexpensive). If it’s out of spec, you looking at an oil pump (which can be costly, and a lot of work). Good Luck.
  • sanibelsalsanibelsal Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem. "Clunking" when driving over even the smallest bumps. Last time at oil change I mentioned it and was told it was my open house signs in the trunk (I'm a realtor) but this is clearly not the case. I have an appointment at the service center tomorrow am and will report back. I did take the deluxe warranty package so I'm praying this is covered (as I said I'm a realtor!)
  • mark149mark149 Member Posts: 7
    Mine had the same noise. It's an easy fix,I did it myself with hand tools and an external spring compressor. My XG has 88 k on it so I bought new rear struts off E/Bay(KYB $200.00) But that's not the noise. The noise is the upper struts rubber mounts. ($30.00). You must remove the struts to replace the rubber mounts.Don't pay an arm and a leg at the dealer. Any good shop can do this with ease for far less then the dealer.Mark I hope is covered too.
  • hermihermi Member Posts: 1
    Yes, I've had and have radio trouble with my 2004 xg 350. About 11 months ago my radio would come on when the car was off and in the garage which would kill the battery. The dealer put in a new radio amplifier under warranty however after 11months the same thing is happening now. But now the warranty has run out. They have had the car 4 days and said there isn't any problem they could find. So I took the car home and the battery went dead in 2 days of sitting.Did a little research and found this problem is pretty common. Found the key off battery drain to be 20 milliamps from Hyundai.However with the radio amp fuse in I pull 70 milliamps. With the fuse out I get 27 milliamps. Doesn't look good for the radio amp. Have a call in to some techs to find out exactly what causes it and the fix we can do short of a $600.00 radio amp. Hope this helps a little.
  • waboosewaboose Member Posts: 1
    So, if we have the clunk noise, do we just need to replace the rubber mounts?
    Have you replaced the rear struts for another reason?
  • mark149mark149 Member Posts: 7
    On my car the rear shocks (struts) were OK. I did replace them because you will have everything apart anyway. At the cost of $100 on Ebay for KYB gas shocks why not. If you have the noise the problem is the upper rubber mounts , not the shocks.
  • jdiehmjdiehm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 XG350 with 107K miles. Sometimes when I try to fill the gas tank the pump shuts off repeatedly even though the tank is not close to being full. This is usually followed by a check engine light coming on. Has anyone else experience this problem?
  • loup1loup1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I have the same problem. There is only 54500 miles on my car. It takes me 10 to 15 minutes to fill my tank with gasoline. I took my car to the dealer and they replaced a sensor duplex valve. That only helped by turning off the check engine light. It did not correct the problem with the rate of flow of gasoline. After approximately 180 miles, the check engine light is back on. I am calling the dealer for an appointment first thing this morning. I have no Idea what is the problem.
  • vtfootevtfoote Member Posts: 2
    I have just experienced this problem - for the last two fill ups. I'm not able to get more than a $1.00 or $1.50 of gas before the pump shuts off. My husband was able to get half a tank by continually restarting after each shut off. The dealer advised that it might be the "charcoal cannister" which absorbs fumes and needs changing. That plus a "Vent Valve" would cost around $350 to $400. I have never heard of such a thing. I only have 56,000 miles on this 2002 XG350. Has anyone ever heard of this?
  • jwf49jwf49 Member Posts: 2
    I too have recently begun to experience the same problem all of you have written about. I have a 2002 XG350L with 58K miles on it. The problem started about a month ago and has continued for the past several fill-ups. I have owned a good number of vehicles in the past and certainly I have never experienced anything like this. I hope you will keep us informed as to what your outcome is like should you take it in for service.
  • t2justint2justin Member Posts: 2
    Help my 2001 Hyundai XG 300 will not accelerate past 20 mph sometimes and then when it does it is kind of jerky. Can anyone tell me what might cause this and how much it would cost to fix?
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Check the wire to the oil pressure switch it could be touching the belt pulley intermittently.Look for a wear spot on the wire. Good Luck.
  • UltragamesUltragames Member Posts: 4
    That was exactly the problem. The belt pulley had aready cut into the wire once, and the previous owner had it fixed. The fix in the wire was being worn down. My mechanic re-routed the wire away from the pulley and fixed it so it won't happen again.

    I take it this is a common design flaw with this car? :)
  • ladyhecklerladyheckler Member Posts: 3
    XG300L-2001- 85K miles
    SONOTAV6-2001-54K miles

    BOTH CARS REFUSED GAS! my xg went just last year.. got a sensor replaced.. not the one listed above , but another one.. the Hyundai in Melbourne Fl knew what it was right away. not sure it was real cheap, but also not sure i couldn't have dont the replacement myself...
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    It would take the mystery out fixing the problem if you would post the name of valve,filter,ect. Thank you in advance.
  • vtfootevtfoote Member Posts: 2
    I have just finished paying for the fix to this problem. As expected by the Dealer and by Tires Plus, it was the Charcoal Canister causing the problem. This is an emissions control device. This canister absorbs the fumes so when pumping, if the Canister is full, it shuts down to avoid fumes escaping into the air.

    When this first occurred I was told the repair was to be around $350 to $400 as they would also have to replace the "valve". I waited a few months and saved up before taking it in. The bill was $798 due to the fact that the cartridge had disintegrated and the lines has to be cleaned. Then it still didn't work so they had to replace the "flow valve" on the gas tank by removing the tank. This added the additional $250. The engine light is off, the new cartridge is in place, the lines have been cleaned and both valves have been replaced. It works fine now. As it is an emissions control item, it was not covered by the warranty.

    I cannot provide you with Valve part names and numbers due to the quality of the ink on the print out - it is not readable. Sorry. But thanks to this Forum, I know that this is a common problem with this vehicle at this age with 57K miles on a 2002 car.
  • jakeomgjakeomg Member Posts: 3
    mine has had the same problem,it stalled out one time at a stoplight,I started it back up,it would rev up to 2000 just sitting there,push my foot to the floor and it would have no response pass 20-25 mph,I was told it could be the fuel filter but I'm not totaly sure if thats related tot he issue here,if you find out let me know
  • jakeomgjakeomg Member Posts: 3
    I haven't done anything to it,I bought it like this,so I don't know if its the fuse/bulbs or an electrical problem,also my 12v plugs dont work in the car at all,front dash,console in front,or the rear console.
    this could also be a wirering,fuse problem but I'm not sure.

    help
  • nascarhopnascarhop Member Posts: 1
    2001 xg 300 WILL NOT ACCELERATE
  • jwf49jwf49 Member Posts: 2
    I too had to have my car repaired as pumping gas became a half hour ordeal. Just as you stated, I had to go through the same process and have the same parts replaced. My bill came to over $600. I called Hyundai customer assistance and basically was told that because it was not a warranty issue there was nothing that they could do. I felt that since this seems to be a problem experienced by many Hyundai owners they might be willing to at least pick up some of the cost. However, I was wrong and as far as they are concerned the case is closed. My car only has a little over 60K miles on it and like yours it is a 2002. I really believe Hyundai should do better for their customers.
  • sorrydudesorrydude Member Posts: 1
    first, for people having problems with their factory radio turning on and off or switching between radio and cd or any other ghost behaviors, try leaving a cd in the unit at all times. since i have done this, the unit only does what i want it to do. though i do have a problem getting the cd slot to accept a new cd when i try to put another cd in.

    the problem that i'm having with my xg300 is with the passenger side speaker volume. if i have the balance positioned in the middle, i can't hear any sound from the passenger speakers. if i move the balance entirely to the passenger side, i can get very low volume sound with no distortions.

    has anyone else had a similar issue? does anyone have an idea why both sides are not outputting volume at the same level?

    any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • cardinal09cardinal09 Member Posts: 2
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Read Page 1-66 in the Owners Manual -Do not "Top Off". Follow this and your problem will go away. Mine did.
  • jdiehmjdiehm Member Posts: 2
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    fuse panel under left side of dash.Flip off cover.Find "fog"fuse,also c/lighter replace fuses with same value.Dash lights- scroll wheel up located next to the " TCS" switch. Luck.
    Orv2.
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Spray the gas cap gasket with silcone spray.

    Orv2.
  • UltragamesUltragames Member Posts: 4
  • newtonx1newtonx1 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday my wife's car, 39.6Kmiles, was having issues with the accelerator. She was driving on the highway and the car appeared to die. The engine was still running, but when she pressed down on the accelerator there was nothing, the engine would not even rev up. She coasted off of the highway and when stopped the car's check engine light came on and the car died. About 2 minutes later the car started back up, check engine light off, and she was able to drive it another couple of miles until it happened again.

    I took the car to a shop (not Hyundai dealer-it's out of warranty) who was unable to locate a problem or duplicate the issue. My wife picked up the car and drove it home today without problems. I did some research and found that some owners have had similar issues and ended up replacing some sort of sensor: accelerator position sensor, accelerator sensor, accelerator relay or something of the sort. I called Hyundai Consumer Relations to explain the issue and he told me he could find nothing showing a re-occurring issue.

    Does anyone know what the problem is or what I need to replace?
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Try- Spray MAF sensor using CRC electronic cleaner.

    Luck,
    orv2
  • edwinxg350edwinxg350 Member Posts: 1
    I had this same problem. my car is a 2004 Hyundai XG350 L and I had around 80k miles at the time my car had these issues. My accelerator would seemingly stop working and become unresponsive, yet my car would still drive slowly. This is known as "limp" mode. When this would happen I would pull over, turn off my car for a few minutes, and restart it. It would drive regular for a while after. Over time, however, the amount of time that my car would drive normal before back going into limp mode would become progressively shorter.The engine code that I got was for a bad throttle position sensor, but in the end I needed to replace the entire throttle body. ($920 new) I hope this helps.
  • robbinhoodrobbinhood Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2011
    Johnny, I have the same problem with mine. A ace mechanic told me the oxygen senors are the problem. I am told by a dealer, there are four of them ? But Daryan says the one on the transmition or the one behind timing belt shroud Is the varment. He said the one behind timing belt gets rubbed by the old belt if they get a little loose (80,000 Miles) causing a intermetiate problem. This is why you can reset after you stop and shut engine down and start back up. Cost so far, As I am still checking is 120.00 new at dealer for each senor and belt is 65.00 at autozone. Do not buy the sensors from auto zone , they have had problems with their sensors. Use Oem , at a junk yard or on line, or dealer. Good luck Robbinhood
  • johnny49johnny49 Member Posts: 2
  • robbinhoodrobbinhood Member Posts: 3
    Unplug the air flow sensor on the side of the air cleaner intake tube. It tells you your air flow is ubstructed . Check your air cleaner or the sensor is bad. Robbin hood
  • robbinhoodrobbinhood Member Posts: 3
    Check air flow sensor on the side of air cleaner hose , disconnect. should help . This tells you, you have a air flow restriction. check the air cleaner.. Replace one or the other.Good luck Robbin hood. ( Had the same problem ) .
  • t2justint2justin Member Posts: 2
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Same problem except engine light stayed on .Car would still run in idle.Initally the motor would die when I pressed the accelerator to the floor,after several attempts it the tach was at 2700 rpms thendied at 3000rpms. the rpms increased gradually up to 6000 rpms where it would start to run rough.I quit at this point.I drove home (home being 70 klm away,most at 100 klm per hour).My scanner read a 2127 code refering to the 2122 code for componet location. First possible cause :Poor connection at A P S 8 pin connection (acelerator position sensor).I had diffuclty disconnecting the 8 pin plug due to a ground wire interfering. I loosened the bolt,pushed the wire out of way, retightened the bolt.Then sprayed the separated connector with C R C electronic cleanor.Put it back toghter, turned off the engine light.Took it for a test drive . Problem gone
    Orv2

    P S A P S location at passenger side near the fire wall.
  • newtonx1newtonx1 Member Posts: 3
  • ahmaduhhsahmaduhhs Member Posts: 1
    The manual had a fuse for the fog lights in the engine bay near the battery, i checked that Fog fuse and it seemed good, how can i check the relay next to it? :sick: :sick: :sick: :(
  • jakeomgjakeomg Member Posts: 3
  • orv2orv2 Member Posts: 13
    Are you aware the fog lights will not light up in the hi beam mode.If so- there are 5 other relays in that panel to switch.
    Good Luck
  • mark149mark149 Member Posts: 7
  • bugs_36bugs_36 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue. I had all the struts replaced and I was still having noise. I found that it was the strut mounting bracket. I took it to a mechanic and they did a temp fix on it by welding it because it had too much play in it. But you can buy a new strut mount @ www.partsgeek.com. So, when the time comes and the temp fix is no longer working I plan to replace the bracket. I hope this helped.
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