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2010 Acura RDX
2010 RDX will get a facelift. It will get that Power Plenum grille that Acura really likes. The Power plenum grille is the same grille as the 09 TL, RL, and TSX. Acura has decided to build a cheaper FWD model more more sales. That would make a nice base model. The gadgets should be upgraded. The Navigation system is all new for 2010. Features a 8.0" WVGA display thats much better than the current one that has some really nice features like XM NavWeather, Scenic routes, revised backup camera, better hardware and a 40 GB HDD,. The maps are stored on a 40 GB HDD that has a 12.4 GB partition for your favorite music.
There will be a USB port for your 5th gen and up iPod's and USB storage devices. Bluetooth will now have A2DP on tech package models so you can stream music from any phone that's A2DP compatible. There might be some more new changes but this is pretty much it. The 2010 Acura RDX will hit showrooms sometime in July to August time frame.
There will be a USB port for your 5th gen and up iPod's and USB storage devices. Bluetooth will now have A2DP on tech package models so you can stream music from any phone that's A2DP compatible. There might be some more new changes but this is pretty much it. The 2010 Acura RDX will hit showrooms sometime in July to August time frame.
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Comments
When does Acura typically release "official" info on model changes?
I'm trying to make a decision between a 2009 and a 2010. Given the changes you think are in store for the gadgets, I would wait... Of course one also wonders what incentives will look like for a new model year.
You could also pick up a used 2008 and forget about the 2009. There isn't much difference between the 2007 - 2009. Then when the 2010's come out and you like the enhancements - upgrade. That's exactly what I'm doing. Saved a lot of $ (in my case @$10K) buying nice used 2008 a couple of months and enjoying the vehicle now - and won't take a bad hit to upgrade to a 2010.
I'm hoping keyless entry, iPOD integration (although I installed a DICE kit in my 2008), and whatever other techie upgrades (better NAV screen would be nice)
Maybe even an Atkinson/Miller/West cycle engine with ~50% FE improvement.
One can hope/dream....
Same post just yesterday o another forum: http://forums.carmudgeons.com/showthread.php?t=24873
Long thread you started just two weeks ago on the subject: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=245212&page=1
Same post on a Mazda CX-7 forum: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123674784&page=4
Different Mazda forum, identical post as to this forum: http://mazdaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17701
2008, actually about Acura this time: http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682916
Here's a quote on, guess what, the same subject from May 16, 2007: "Yeah, I guess I'll just have to go ahead and do it to prove my position"
So go do it already, or send a resume to Honda/Toyota/Mazda. In the meantime, please stop spamming every car forum.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I want to know if there are any engine tweeks.
I want to know if what we have seen in Dec/Jan will really be what it looks like.
Anyone out there has has information???
I loved how it drove and didn't think it was harsh at all even on rough roads. If you want a softer suspension you belong in a RAV4 or a CRV.
The only CHANGE I thing the RDX needs would be a fuel economy boost. Especially Highway numbers.
If the RDX got 20 city, and 27 highway it would be a small SUV killer!
Don't care for the quotidian interior of the RAV4.
My wife would be interested in the RDX if the suspension was somewhat softer. It is a matter of degree. Wouldn't want a soft marshmallow ride either.
50% improvement in hwy FE..??
Have you considered this:
What you could do to "soften" the ride might be to actually put a set of 17inch rims on it with THICKER tires (maybe 65 profile). That would give you a little more added cushion over the 18inch tires with a 55profile.
Maybe a cheap and easy way to make the RDX how you want it, while still maintaining what is good about the RDX...Its Handling.
If only honda was as smart as you are. You should fill out an application for them and see if you can get the 2011 RDX to 30+mpg on the highway while still maintaining 240hp and 260lbft of torque. Oh ya...while being a 4000lb SUV.
lol
In all seriousness if they could just tweek things a little bit and get to 26-27mpg HW that would be good enough over 24mpg HW that people see right now.
Right now they are at 33700 for a new 09 tech.
That isn't bad, but I don't think it is great.
If I could get them to $32000 on their car do you think that would be WAY BETTER than I could get a 2010 for? Would you do it or wait, or even try to get them into the $31000 area. Remember I want a TECH model!
And with a new VVT-i design using Otto/Atkinson/Miller/West cycle modes the new leftover '09's might become virtually worthless.
The new Prius and RX450H engines use Otto mode, 13:1 CR (12.5:1 RX) for part throttle operations and then transition into Atkinson mode (10:1 CR..??) as engine loading increases.
I have read NOTHING about those types of engine changes.
OK...Got this directly via email from Acura today after I emailed them last week.
Hopefully when he says information will be avaible soon, that means EARLY JUNE!
One of the major, at least from my viewpoint, RDX competitors, the CX-7 already has DFI. Mazda calls it DISI, Direct Injection Spark Ignition.
Due to the cooling effects of spraying the fuel mist into the previously fully compressed air at or near TDC on the compression stroke the CR can be, is being raised, to as high as 12.5:1. Plus, "air" alone, does not auto-ignite. Like in a diesel engine, no danger of detonation until the fuel is added, regardless of CR.
Palladium Metallic
Polished Metal Metallic
Crystal Black Pearl
Grigio Metallic
Basque Red Pearl
Here are the colors for the 2010 Acura RDX. Same as 2009 but no Royal Blue. Interior choices will be Taupe or Ebony. It will come out on July 15. In July the FWD models will go into production.
I only read that the FWD will begin production on July 15th.
(or did you find information elsewhere?)
$2500 Dealer incentive and 3.9% for 60 months is sweet on the 2009s and I don't want to miss a deal like that...if the 2010s don't get the upgrades that we are thinking it will get like upgraded Navi and USB connections!
Even with the horrid "business" of the dash/instrument area I will be interested in the RDX once they adopt the engine to DFI but I will likely disable the turbo to improve FE.
DFI would enable a 12:1 static compression ratio possibly making the turbo needless.
I can remember when everyone hated the look of the '04 CTS. Now it's on the fastest and hottest car made in America, the CTS-V, and it looks fabulous.
Did you mean...
"Now it's on the fastest and hottest sedan made in America, the CTS-V, and it looks fabulous."
Back to the RDX...
It is at the top of my short list but it is my wife's turn to pick, so we shall see.
If we do go with an RDX I will add a turbo timer, change the oil every 2500 mi., and consider an ECU reprogram (more boost) after about 10k mi.
WHY...
Overkill on the M1 oil/filter change? You betcha. For ~$30 per change(diy), and as much as $120/yr (10k mi.) it is the best insurance you can buy for your turbo.
Turbo timer ~$500 - way more expensive than an oil & filter but also good insurance against coking oil in the turbo. I like to keep my cars for a long time and often drive them hard. (In-line fours need to be revved)
Save the turbo, kill the cat?
The Great Car Maintenance Upsell (Yahoo)
You got it right. Loving the new RDX. Need to take a long trip somewhere soon to really see how good it is to drive.
"That oil change? Turns out every 5,000 miles is often enough. New oil has chemicals that eat away the catalytic converter, says Donny Seyfer, a Colorado-based certified master technician, and changing oil too often can damage that pricey part."
Wow. I respectfully reserve my right to question anyone who makes or believes this statement.
Please provide supporting info.
If ones cat/s does get damaged I would suspect burning too much oil, a too rich fuel to air ratio, or even the crazy blends of fuel used. (ethanol, mtbe, etc.)
Using logic...
Would the "chemical in the new oil" not keep eating away the catalytic converter during the 2500mi to 5000mi period as well?
Or does the chemical magically go away after 2500 mi?
I bet it doesn't say every 2,500 miles.
Way to turn the subject around.
My question was/is - how will changing your oil at 2500mi vs 5000mi harm the cat/s? Please provide supporting info.
My previous post here makes clear that I do not currently own an RDX. (nor do I own any other vehicle with a turbo) So which of my owners manuals are you refering to in your response to my question (with a question)?
Clearly, most people with some basic knowledge of turbos will agree that they are very hard on oil due to high heat and rpms in the turbine. Hence my statement...
"Overkill on the M1 oil/filter change? You betcha. For ~$30 per change(diy), and as much as $120/yr (10k mi.) it is the best (cheapest) insurance you can buy for your turbo."
The idea is to prevent coking of the oil in the hot turbo. The RDX does use convective transfer to keep cooling the turbo after shutting off the motor. But if it is quite heat soaked this may not be enough cooling. That is where a computer controlled turbo timer comes in, allowing the system to cool down before shut off.
Please, please provide supporting info that changing oil early will harm the cat/s.
Here's his bio:
"Donny is an ASE Master /L1 advanced diagnostic technician and C1 Service Consultant. Since 1994 he has been a participant writing test questions and working on passing score studies He has designed and built many performance vehicles for himself and customers and actively manages Seyfer’s performance and restoration service offerings." link
Donny never used the term "kill the cat". You did. Donny said, "New oil has chemicals that eat away the catalytic converter." Whatever that means?
For the sake of argument lets say you and Donny are right and I'm a "cat killer.
1) Which is more important to the health of the engine, the cats or the bearings?
2) Will this chemical in the oil "kill" both cats or one or the other?
3) Can oil coking in the turbo bearings cause further problems in the engine?
4) Can a "killed cat/s" cause further problems in the engine?
5) Do you now or have you ever owned an RDX? (or any other turbocharged vehicle)
FYI - '09 turbo lists for ~ $2700, pre-converter ~$955, converter ~ $760...
So, if I have to pick which I have to "kill", let me "kill" the pre-converter, as the turbo costs ~ 3 x as much.
Further, I suspect that coked oil from the turbo will have a negative effect on the engine bearings as well, since they share the same oil.
BTW, since I have a lease I follow the oil indicator on the computer. That's why I like a lease. I'm just borrowing the car.
I won't consider buying a used car, it is a gamble. But there is pride in ownership in some people. (well, A R people like myself)
I take great pride in maintaining every aspect of families vehicles. Most people really don't.
Do you ever drive your RDX hard? (to the redline?)
My '99 is on a 7,500 interval (135k) and my '97 is on a 5,000 one (67k). Dead dino, and I'd just as soon the engine and cat (and tranny, etc.) all last forever, since that's how long I drive them.
You may appreciate the occasional oil analysis (about $20).
What about you, ever had a turbo'd vehicle before?
Ah, the break-in period. (and the lovely new car smell)
My take on break-in is to try to not keep the engine at a steady speed, to vary the rpm as much as possible. Also keep it out of Vtec. No cruise control, and even vary rpm on the freeway by changing gears up and down. (and still maintain the same speed) Adopt this style for ~ 2500 mi and then just do whatever the manual says for break-in until 5 to 7 k/mi.
As for the brakes, find a deserted long streach of road and do a few gentle stops from 30 to rolling, and then cruise for a couple of miles to cool the brakes. Next do a few gentle 40 to a roll stops followed by a few miles to cool the brakes. Next do a few 50 to a roll stops, followed by a four mile cool down. Last step do 60 to a roll stop somewhat firmly, followed by a five mile cool down. This both tempers the rotors and beds the pads. The brakes will now be ready for anything.
Oh snap, I forgot its a lease...forget all that I just said above.
Ha. I hate door dents and the little circles that get embosed in my bumper covers from people who need to park by feel. Ugh.
Right now the coupe and the roadster are kept in the garage and the truck is parked on the street. My wife wants to let the coupe go before we buy our next vehicle, but I'm reluctent to part with it. The roadster is a handful in the rain, so I drive the truck a bit more in the winter. Having a fourth car will keep me out of the truck unless I really need to use it.
I'm like you in that I want my cars to last.
But I do drive them somewhat hard at times. We also auto-x the roadster in the summer. So yeah...tough test track miles. But I can and have fixed whatever I break. Ha.
albeit, it's more masculine looking now, so maybe possibly higher demand?
I would HOPE a 2009 RDX with Tech and normal miles ($15k) should be at around $29k. . . :confuse: