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Comments
what are the switches on the transfer case called ? ,or what are the part nos.,
causing cylinder 3 and 6 to misfire
already replaced coil pack and module any ideas anybody
A day later the car would not move past 3-5 miles an hour and the transmition seem to slip.
Is there a sensor in this vehicle that can cause a transmition failure? or is there another reason for this?
Has anyone else experienced this problem, and if so, what was it?
let me know
thanks,
gtkermit
1. Located underneath the drivers side dash is the DLC (Data Line Connector). The DLC is tapered on both ends. The terminals needed to complete the programming are on the top row.
2. Insert keys in ignition and leave in the off position. Make sure there are metal contact pins in terminals 1 and 4 from the left to the right and connect the Data Line Connector terminal 1 to 4 with a jumper wire. A paper clip can work as the jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds after connecting the jumper wire, turn the ignition switch to the ACC (Accessory) position and then back to the OFF position for one (1) second and repeat 2 times. (Note that as soon as the jumper wire is connected in terminal 1 and 4 you must immediately turn the key to ACC (Accessory) then OFF repeatedly 3 times. If this is done too slow or the programming is not successful, start over by removing the paper clip and starting the process again.)
4. Press the Lock or Unlock button on the transmitter to be registered three times within 10 seconds. Upon successful programming the door will lock and unlock once.
5. If there are 2 transmitters, register the first, then register the second (Just the remote button, press 3 times) using the same procedure within one minute. After completing the second programming the doors will lock and unlock once.
Disconnect the programming wire (paper clip) and remove keys. (Note: Up to four (4) remotes can be programmed to a single vehicle.)
If I can be of any help you can contact me via email @ johnxhewel (at) yahoo (dot) com.
Your best bet for finding a shifter using a parts locator service. I have used www.PartRequest.com and have been able to find new and used parts for my Montero Sport.
Good Luck
If this is an issue with so many vehicles how can it not be some type of defect?
I've have a free transmission diagnostic test run and they found no problem. They did however there were further tests they could do for $125.........
Any recommendations??
Thanks,
JFE
I have a 2005 Mitshubishi Montero Sport and for the past few weeks The Neutral Sign has been blinking and well the gears are not shifting like they used to.
The computer test for the gear box determined that the Input Speed Sensor needs to be changed ...
Does anyone know where i can order this part from ? Cause the dealership takes over a month to get it ...
Any help would be appreciated
Regards
Thank you
Anthony B
Regards
The mitsu deal replaced two parts MB596608 Switch Stop lamp (75.54), and MR263723 Valve, Frewheel C (122.10). Labor was 250, so it took them damn near 4 hours to do something!!! But hey that was the first 400 that I spent on my rig outside of routine stuff in years...it has been an awesome truck. Hope this helps.
Does anyone know if in case I still haven't change the"freewheel solenoid valve" and the light keeps on blinking, what could possibly happen? is the 4x4 engage even if it is in the "2H" mode?
Thanks in advance for you idea and reply....
Here is a link to a web site for an older model Montero:
http://4wd.blogeasy.com/
You will see a picture of the "Vacuum Solenoid Valves." They have a blue and yellow dot on top of them. This looks exactly the same on the newer model Monteros. You will find the valve under the air intake (air filter), mounted the the passenger side wheel well. The hardest part of the job is removing the rubber vacuum tubes from the valve. You have to work them off very slowly and carefully. Hope this helps.
I followed the steps on the reply & pics sent by tmcalister and checking the actuator shaft and moved it back & forth and applied grease to the shaft. Upon removal of the air intake, found the 2 solenoid valves. I checked the vacuum hoses & all were ok. I tried testing the solenoids for the resistance using the multi tester, 1st solenoid valve(with yellow dot) I got a 47 ohms, but for the 2nd solenoid valve with(blue dot) I didn't get any reading. I tried cleaning the electrical connections on the solenoid valve and still nothing(no value). Does this mean that the solenoid valve(blue dot) is not working and needs replacement?
Thanks in advance for your reply guys... I appreciate your time and inputs.
I'm glad the posts have helped. I was so relieved when I was able to replace the part myself, and that was only possible because of this blog. Anyway, I must be honest...I never tested the solenoid. I had no way to. I simply took the chance that it was the problem, and it was. It's very clear that this part has serious problems as far as longevity, so I didn't hesitate to buy it for 100 bucks, and replace it. It was a gamble of sorts, but with all the others replacing the same part with good results made my decision easy.
I did, however, remove the electrical connections and clean them: with no luck. My guess is the part is most certainly bad, esp since you tested it and confirmed. Call your local Mist dealer, and order the part. I noted the part number in an early blog. I will be shocked it it doesn't fix your issue. Good Luck!
Thanks again! :
Thanks in advance for your answer.
I got the part from a dealer. The unit actually contains both solenoid valves (yellow and blue dotted valves). The replacement work took about an hour. And the annoying flashing 4-wheel drive sign is gone once the new part went in. Problem solved! Thanks for everyone on this board.
Thanks.