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I noticed this immediately while looking at the 10th generation Corollas. Both the trunk and fuel filler door release handles located on the driver's side floor area are made of a cheap, flimsy metal and have stickers for decals. This is another way Toyota decided to cut costs and "move backwards". My 1989 Corolla had the exact same release handles and you're correct, over time they bend and the stickers peel right off. The Corollas haven't had these same release handles since the 1988-1992 generation (I think). My '04 Corolla had sturdy release handles made of a thick plastic with the decals lasered right into them. Never once had a problem with the 04. Even the Yaris has the better quality plastic release handles.
If you really examine the 10th generation Corolla all around in person, you begin to see the many ways Toyota cut costs.
http://idi.aultec.com/v/21/7034/txt/18889634_18572791.jpg
(This is from a 2010 Corolla S)
http://idi.aultec.com/v/21/7034/txt/19087928_19627817.jpg
(This is from a 2007 Corolla S)
Here is a picture of a 2010 Yaris release tabs
http://67.192.79.212/inventory/thumb.php?cropratio=4:3&maxwidth=460&maxheight=34- 5&im=../eVox/stills_0640/6284/6284_st0640_063.jpg
Everyone has their opinion, but I definitely believe the tabs used in the 2003-2008 generation were of much better quality. Over time, the decals (stickers) will lose their adhesive and peel off due to moisture and age.
I have been doing some extensive research on these tabs. Apparently on the 03-08 generation, there is actually a release cable for both gas door and trunk. On the 09-present Corolla, there isn't a release cable. I found this by searching on "body hardware" category for the Corolla on the Toyota Parts database on my dealership's website. I compared the two generations and realized this. This is confusing because they both do the same function, but look different and are different materials. I just wish Toyota would go back to the plastic tabs on the Corolla! Heck, even the Yaris has the better quality tabs!
I meticulously maintained this car, synthetic oil changes every 3,000 miles, garaged, washed and waxed regularly. I am the type of person who parks extra far away in a parking lot to avoid dings and shopping carts. The car was exceptional for being nearly 6 years old!
While on vacation in Florida, I was offered a free upgrade and was given an Avalon to rent from Alamo. I fell in love with the Avalon as it drove and handled awesome. Remember in Florida, it's mostly highway driving. I primarily do all city driving and the Corolla was perfect for this. I liked the Avalon so much that I decided to purcahse one last November. I also thought Toyota was going to discontinue the Avalon lineup as there was much speculation about this. So, I stupidly traded in my lovely Corolla for this horrible Avalon. I have posted before that I am very dissatisfied with the Avalon as the transmission has issues while city driving. It's confused, it hesitates and doesn't coast.
I thought long and hard about trading it in for a 2010 Corolla XLE. While carefully examining the current Corolla, the quality just doesn't compare to the 03-08 generation. In my opinion, Toyota really cut corners with this generation. If you look carefully at every detail of both 9th and 10th generations, you begin to notice things. Even looking at the undercarriages of both generations. Just Sunday, I was looking at a 2010 LE's undercarriage. The workmanship is literally sloppy underneath, compound, or undercoating smeared everywhere. Not that this is visible while driving, but the build quality just seems very sloppy. Nowhere near the quality compared to my 04. The 2010 I was looking at was built in Canada. I thought maybe as NUMMI was closing, the morale and work ethics of employees decreased and quality wasn't important, but this was a car built in Canada!
Don't get me wrong, I am still a huge Toyota fan and will only purchase Toyota vehicles. I still think the current Corolla is a good car. The quality and workmanship has partially slipped, but I am confident Toyota realizes this and they are being proactive about it. Hence the delay of the 2011 model year. Also, there is an abundance of 2010 LE's in my region that were built at NUMMI. These cars are NOT moving at all, even with the great incentives since early March! The hottest model selling right now is the Corolla S. These are flying off dealer lots! The S is a much better value, MUCH more features than the LE for a little more money. Thanks for listening to my story! By the way, I've located my 04 Corolla. Someone purchased it in the next town over from me. I saw it in their driveway and know it's my old car by the alloys and window vent visors. I also ran the CARFAX and the report states the second owner registered it in that town. I'm tempted to stop in and introduce myself as the ex. owner of their car! They're lucky to have such a fabulous used car for being 6 years old!
What I loved about the 03-08 generation was the height of the vehicle. It was super easy getting in and out of the car as it wasn't so low as previous generations!
I also currently own a 1989 Corolla sedan and love this generation as well. With 150,000 miles, the engine still runs like new. Too bad the metal was cheap in those days and the car now has excessive body rot that started 10 years ago. It's only used as a spare car and rarely driven. I certainly have gotten my moneys' worth out of this car!
http://iguida.com/2011-toyota-corolla
http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100617/us_nm/us_toyota_mississippi_4
As for your post about the pedal and floor modification for the separate recall, I just had this done on my Avalon yesterday. I went in for my first oil change and the service advisor notified me of the second phase of the recall. I never received an official notice from Toyota, but the dealer said they could perform the fix for the recall. I don't notice any modifications with the carpet or carpet pad in my Avalon. The Avalon has carpet pad under the carpet for extra soundproofing (I assume for this reason). Nothing looks to be modified on the floor, just the pedal itself has been trimmed on the bottom portion (corners) of the pedal. They also installed the brake override system, which shuts the engine down when the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time. With the oil change and recall fix, it took about 2 1/2 hours. Originally they told me only one hour. I peeked through window of where the service bays are and two technicians were working on my car for the recall fix.
I bought the 2010 Corolla with 9500 miles on it last summer (original warranty intact). I have brought it to the dealership 5 times for a rattle in the driver side B-pillar. I have also complained because I found that there was a dent removed from the driver side door and I was displeased with discovering several small bumps from the tool used to remove the dent. I have a feeling that the two are related somehow. When I was shown the Carfax the report was clean (no-accident history).
My car has been at the dealership for over a week now and each time I call they say they cannot figure out the rattle. They can hear it, though.
I'm starting to get rather worried. What are my options if they claim they cannot solve the rattle? Can I demand they buy the car back, trade it in for a similar vehicle, give me a good price on a trade-in...? I need to know because this is absolute b.s. and I refuse to accept an "irreparable" 2010 Corolla with an excessive and unnatural rattle I dropped $15k on (and bought new tires for!!) just a few months ago.
Annoying none the lesss, just as your situation must be.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
With A/C on (in summer months): Issue never appears. Idle is consistently 800 to 900 RPM.
With A/C off: Idle is normal (800 to 900 RPM) unless the brake is depressed enough to turn on the brake lamps. I backed up to a reflective surface so that I could observe the brake lamps, put the car into [D], and set the parking brake to keep it from moving. While depressing the brake pedal very slowly, the idle consistently falls to a shuddering 500-600 RPM as soon as the brake lamps illuminate. When the pedal is released slowly, the idle returns to normal as soon as the brake lamps go back off. Turning on the headlamps causes an immediate return to normal in the idle speed with the brake depressed.
Discussion: The engine control unit (ECU) certainly controls idle speed, probably in a quasi-closed-loop fashion. The ECU knows if the A/C compressor is operating, if the brake is depressed, what gear the transmission is in, and so forth. On the Corolla the ECU must also be reading the state of the headlamps. This car is also equipped with vehicle stability control (VSC), which is essentially an augmented 4-channel ABS system (probably powered by an electrical hydraulic pump). My guess is that there is either an unaccounted for errant/ signal wiring path, engine load from the VSC system, or firmware defect (or wrong calibration constant) in the ECU that is leading to this trouble. The engine is properly compensating for load factors such as A/C and headlamps on, but failing to maintain idle with A/C off and brakes on. I've seen others mentioning this about related Toyota models, so I'm guessing it's more common that you think. Goes to show you that there's a lot more happening under the hood of your car than the average shade tree mechanic could even dream of 20+ years ago.
Concerns: (1) Idle dropping low enough to stall is a safety issue in city traffic. (2) Low idle speed is not healthy for an engine, and could impair lubrication if the oil pressure is consistently falling below acceptable levels.
I've got some local control systems experts in KC that I can consult with...I'll bring this to them to see what they think.
mcckc.edu/btc