Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
But some of us benefitted from the great discounts like the $5000 off of a 3.0R VDC that I got at that time. The up-market push brought me back from Audi/VW since I didn't have to sit on recycled burlap like in my 97 Legacy any more.
And take a look at the prices on the 3.6 Limited Outback which I believe is sold out for 2010! Of course those prices helped me decide on a 2010 XT Forester instead.
I looked today and a loaded Tribeca is $36 grand. People were getting those for $32-33k or so. Demos were less. Remember those supposedly hail-damaged Tribecas that sold for $27k new? Rumor has it they were hardly damaged at all, but SoA wanted to unload a bunch for cheap without an adverse affect on resale.
I should have nabbed one.
I should have nabbed one.
That is how I bought a 1993 Passat VR6 wagon for a minimum price: The hail damage was only barely visible when I sighted across the roof at exactly the right angle. One bounce of a roller at a car wash would have done more. When I traded it in on the 97 Legacy the dealer thought it was a cream puff, but it was a true VW with a questionable head gasket and autotrans gasket leak. The long VW warranty in later years was of benefit for my next two Passats. They are great cars to drive and ride in, but hell to own out of warranty.
I hope Subaru head gasket problems have been laid to rest or the present sales success will not continue. I suspect the increased bore diameters of the 2.5l engine in the same overall block dimensions as the 2.2l have pushed the limits of block rigidity. That's one reason I bought an XT with the sturdier block casting. It also does not have the nasty exhaust rap from the thin manifolds. The 3.6R block exhaust also does not have those manifolds.
I turned 5,000 a month or so ago and had the oil and filter changed at a local (not national brand) oil/brakes/exhaust place that coupons $20.00 as a way to build customer loyalty. They use national brand oil and good filters. I had the tires rotated at Discount Tire so no charge there.
When I was in my dealer last weekend for the CVT cooling hose change out I remember seeing the price list behind the service counter. I'm pretty sure the 15k one was listed at about the same price as MT paid.
I'm probably going to put a big DO NOT TOUCH sticker on my air filter housing to keep morons from opening it. My wife had her oil changed (Lexus RX) at a Wal-Mart or some other place and they managed to DISLODGE one of the "captive" screws on the air filter housing. She noticed it when we were driving from Austin to Denver when the gas gauge needle was dropping faster than normal.
Turned out they had dislodged on of the tiny vacuum lines which was causing the crap mileage. But the missing screw is a PITA because it's IIRC a 5mm diameter. After the second one disappeared I changed services to the place I mentioned above.
Overall that dealer charge adds about 2.4 cents per mile to the long term ownership costs.
easypar
The cheap glued-on satellite radio antenna has been fixed for the 2011 model. It has been moved to the rear portion of the roof where it should have been all along. Also, the 2011 has folding rear mirrors.
The XT uses a semi-closed deck block and so is sturdier but the problem with this engine is that the banjo turbo oil filter screen tends to obstruct, leading to turbo failures, of which there are many reports online. Good luck with yours.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/83-outback-turbo/17697-turbo-failure-clogged- -banjo-bolt-filter-print.html
One or two of the dimensions differed by less than an inch, but that was about it. I realize that the Subies don't have all the nice extras that the Lex has; outside mirrors looking down in reverse gear, electrically controlled tilt wheel, multiple driver's seat pre-sets, electric tailgate but the price difference is a bunch.
A few months ago I ran the numbers for an Outback on both Edmunds and SOA and an Outback with what we'd want would probably MSRP for about $30-$31K. I figure a Lex is going to be in the $40K plus range.
I'm posting this because we have a 6 month old Legacy, 2.5, CVT and my wife likes its ride and mileage. Her Lex is 6 1/2 years old and not ready for replacement yet, but she has been "pre-looking" and "pre-planning". We no longer do the kind of things that require a sport ute but she has always liked having the extra space and the fact that she sits up a bit higher.
The improved mileage ratings versus her old, much heavier RX is an issue, although we don't drive enough for much $$ savings.
Anyway I was wondering if anyone has moved from anything like a RX-330, Acura MDX or similar to the new Outback?
easypar
From the start already noticed that when backing up and shifting from Park to Reverse, majority of the time there will be a rather big jolt accompanied with a clunking/thudding noise. The problem is more pronounced on an incline surface.
When shifting to Neutral and to Drive, there will be a little clicking noises.
Never had this problem with previous 1995 and 2005 Legacy 2,5i and 2006 Outback 2.5i.
Bought brand new from dealer March 19, 2010, mileage todate: 1,700 miles.
From the very beginning already noticed that when backing up and shifting from Park to Reverse, there will be a rather big jolt accompanied by a big clunking noise. This problem is more pronounced on an incline surface.
When shifting to Neutral and to Drive, there will be little clicking noise at each stage.
Didn't get the time to bring the car to the dealer yet.
The engine noise is also rather loud after starting,
Never had all these problems with previous 1995 and 2005 Legacy 2.5i and 2006 Outback 2.5i.
Anybody has the same problems?
Drove the car long distance for 300 miles on July 4th weekend. The drive was smooth and got 31 mpg.
Recall Date: JUN 24, 2010
Component: STEERING:COLUMN
Model Affected: LEGACY
Potential Units Affected: 73698
Recall Date:JUN 24, 2010
Model Affected:2010 SUBARU LEGACY
Summary:SUBARU IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2010 OUTBACK AND LEGACY PASSENGER VEHICLES MANUFACTURED FROM FEBRUARY 16, 2009 THROUGH APRIL 12, 2010. THE WIRING IN THE STEERING COLUMN ELECTRICAL ROLL CONNECTOR LOCATED BEHIND THE VEHICLE'S STEERING WHEEL MAY DEVELOP STRESS CRACKS AND EVENTUALLY BREAK. IF THIS WERE TO HAPPEN CERTAIN ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS MAY NOT OPERATE AS INTENDED.
Consequence:POSSIBLE CIRCUITS AFFECTED ARE THE DRIVER'S FRONTAL AIRBAG, PADDLE SHIFTER FUNCTION, CRUISE CONTROL, HORN CONTROL AND RADIO FUNCTIONS INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:DEALERS WILL CHECK LOT NUMBER OF THE STEERING ROLL CONNECTOR. THE ROLL CONNECTOR WILL BE REPLACED WITH A NEW ONE IF THE LOT NUMBER SHOWED ANY AFFECTED RANGE OF THE FAILURE OCCURRENCE. THIS SERVICE WILL BE PERFORMED FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 7, 2010. OWNERS MAY CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783.
Potential Units Affected:73698
Notes:SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. WVR-28
Recall ID # 10V196000 - ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM:HOSE - Get Details
Recall Date: MAY 07, 2010
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:COOLING SYSTEM:HOSE
Model Affected: LEGACY
Potential Units Affected: 29443
Read more: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2010/subaru/legacy/recalls/index.html#ixzz0tmFizd- WX
So far, my 2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium does not have the steering wheel vibration problem yet. The problem is with the jolting and clunking when shifting from Park to Reverse, which is very very rare even for any old old cars.
Don't know if anybody has the same problem as mine.
I have already e-mailed the Customer Care Dept. of SOA in New Jersey about the shifting problem, they immediately responded and told me to bring the car to the dealership for check up. Didn't get a chance to do that yet.
So far haven't received any notification yet for any of the recalls in the Long Island, New York area. My only problems are the jolting and clunking when shifting from P to R, and also loud engine noise when first started, altho after a while the noise subsides but still a little loud as compared with other cars, e.g.Camry, Accord, etc. So far, don't have the steering wheel problem yet.
Hopefully, SOA will issue recalls for the shifting and engine noise problems soon.
I never felt the need to look into the H6 when I bought my 2010 Outback last New Year's Eve, because getting the CVT was my chief motivation. At 32+ MGP on the freeway, I've no regrets, power or otherwise.
I've also been using the downshifting feature of the CVT to slow the car, which is something I never thought I'd be doing. I'm careful to do so only when the shift arrows allow for it, but is this really as harmless to the tranny/engine/suspension as it's claimed to be? I'm downshifting at reaonable speeds - 60 to 5th, 40 to 4th, etc. - but can't help feeling that the sometimes perceptible impact on the engine might make for problems down the line.
Likes: mileage, tunes, looks (I get more compliments on this car than any other I've ever owned, but then there are a Pinto, Renault 12, and VW in my past), and cargo space.
Dislikes: smaller sunroof than the one I got spoiled by on my 2003 Forester, lack of flipout cupholders at rear of console, lack of folding mirrors. Oh, and those three service bulletin letters I've received and am waiting for the 7500 mile service to deal with.
Overall, I'm very pleased with this car and am glad I sprung for the Outback instead of getting another Forester.
Looking for help on this, my '10 Legacy limited will connect 50% of the time. The other times I have to search for my Legacy connection with my Blackberry Pearl. Also, I find the sound out of the one central speaker in the center counsel is tinny and not loud enough at highway speed.
Any suggestions on improving these two things?
This is just a wild-a** guess, but the first thought that popped in my head was to wonder if your car had the moonroof, and if a clogged or blocked moonroof drain tube was somehow leading to water dripping down on some wiring for the rear speakers. Do you see any other signs of moisture inside of the car, after a rain.
I'm not sure what to make of the fact that your car is inside a garage overnight - although I suppose it is possible for a delayed effect. I wouldn't think that road spray while driving could get anywhere near to the speaker wires.
(What I don't know is the routing of the wires for the rear speakers, and/or subwoofer. I don't know if the wires are up in the roof area, and then come down the B-pillars between the front and rear doors, or if the wiring is basically at floor level.)
You could potentially debug this more thoroughly by pulling your head end unit, and checking for continuity in the wires, while/when the problem occurs. And potentially you can double-confirm that it is rain-associated, by trying to cause the problem yourself with a hose providing the water.
This is just a wild-a** guess, but the first thought that popped in my head was to wonder if your car had the moonroof, and if a clogged or blocked moonroof drain tube was somehow leading to water dripping down on some wiring for the rear speakers. Do you see any other signs of moisture inside of the car, after a rain?
I'm not sure what to make of the fact that your car is inside a garage overnight - although I suppose it is possible for a delayed effect to exist. I wouldn't think that road spray while driving could get anywhere near to the speaker wires. But perhaps the delayed effect is still consistent with slow dripping from the moonroof area.
(What I don't know is the routing of the wires for the rear speakers, and/or subwoofer. I don't know if the rear speaker wires are up in the roof area, and then come down the B-pillars between the front and rear doors, or if the wiring is basically at floor level.)
You could potentially debug this more thoroughly by pulling your head end unit, and checking for continuity in the wires, while/when the problem is occuring. And potentially you can double-confirm that it is actually rain-associated, by trying to cause the problem yourself with a hose providing the water.
Just some food for thought...
809 cars involved.
So only 809 manual-equipped new-gen Legacys and Outbacks have been sold? Amazing (and depressing).
Bob
Bob, you could be correct, but it is not clear that 809 units were the entire production.
Dave
easypar
Bob
I wonder if this is related, at all, to the intermittent power loss reported by some manual owners?
My car has been in the shop 3x so far for this issue. Thus far , Subaru has balanced my tires, did a road force balance, and just last week installed a body vibration kit.
The vibration is less since the kit was installed , but still there at 70-75 mph. I am curious to know what your experiences are as I have no comparison. Is this normal? When I am driving at a speed of 70 on a relatively smooth road, NYS thruway, and rest my hand lightly on the wheel , my hand can be seen slightly shaking or quivering. There is also a lot of road feel.
Thank you for nay and all responses.
The suspension of the new Outback is defective.
This defect is well documented on the internet.
My advice to you is to dump this defective car or learn to live with it.
Subaru does not give a rat's **s.
I don't want to belabor the issue here, when there is so much other discussion elsewhere, but a few things to mention:
- for some reason, it only seems to affect some cars, although the percentage of affected cars is very unclear. It is also not totally clear if the problem can develop "down the road", or if new cars either have it, or don't have it. I would say that in most cases, it seems to be present from the beginning (usually experienced in the 70-75 mph speed range).
- Various remedies have been applied to affected cars - the usual first step is road-force wheel balancing. But some cars also received a heavier spring insert inside of the steering rack (which reportedly provides some level of reduction of the symptoms, and may also make the steering feel a bit less "light"). One person on the subaruoutback.org forum apparently received a replacement steering rack, and a few people have reported receiving new bushings of some sort, in the front suspension.
- The only official TSB on the subject came out belatedly in May 2010, more or less summarizing the above partial remedies.
- For the past couple of months there have been reports/rumors that Subaru was working on a "real fix", whatever that may mean, and that a TSB for the "real fix" was supposedly due to come out in July (this month). But this hasn't happened yet, and it is not clear that it will happen. (The reports of this "fix in progress" aren't just internet rumors - I think some of this has come from conversations that some affected owners have had with Subaru corporate people.)
The steering vibration, though, is a separate issue.
Wes
But they are safer for the average driver than older models. I could confidently change lanes with my 1997 Legacy GT with only a touch to the wheel, but my partner wig wagged down the road when he was driving. The self centering and lighter touch on my new Forester XT are both better than on my previous Outback 3.0R.
I have noticed a lot of lazy drivers recently who don't turn the wheel far enough and fast enough for the attempted manuever. Subaru recent steering changes may particularly help such drivers.
I thoroughly enjoyed the steering on my '96, '07, and '08 Outbacks - I thought they were nicely, if not perfectly, balanced.
That brings back memories of driving my Dad's '68 Ford F100 with manual steering and three on the tree on the hilly/windy Saw Mill / Merritt Parkway through NY & CT.
The steering box had tons of play and the shifter not only had a long throw (way longer than Chevy), but it also tended to jam going into 2nd. Now that was a workout. :surprise:
Oh, but that 360 V8 w/ Holley 4 barrel just purred.
Anyone had this experience? Is it the radio or antenna?
I am going to try to increase length of the antenna to see if that helps.
I have only driven a couple of vehicles with "three-on-the-tree" shifters (a '47 Chevrolet sedan and a '66 Galaxie). They were... interesting... to drive, but I did not think the shifting experience was nearly as engaging as a floor-mounted shifter.
And, on that note, I sure would like to see a real, definitive fix for that steering vibration problem on the 10 Outbacks!
I wonder if that is the same Ross steering gear box that I had on my 1965 Mustang.? I tighted mine up after about four years of use, but the result was lumpy steering with still a little too much play. That was the same infamous gearbox used on the Falcon. My partner still shakes the steering wheel from side to side from too many years driving a Falcon. :confuse:
We love the car but are having a couple of issues. First, when we release the brake pedal there is a clunking noise. The dealer says they need to change a part - already?! The car is 2 weeks old! I hope it solves our problem.
Also, when we drive with the sun roof open, the noise is deafening. Would anyone know if a deflecter would help stop this noise? Any other suggestions?
Thanks so much!
Rose
When the weather is cool this particular car bathes the interior with RF radiation in the X and Ka band radar frequencies. The emissions are coming from just to the left of the speaker grill on the top of the dash. It is like driving in a microwave oven. The problem happens when the dash is cool, so it is a permanent condition in cooler months. Goes away when the dash gets warm in warmer weather.
All I asked was that Subaru help me track down the source of the problem so that we could replace whatever is causing the problem. But, over the past seven months, Subaru America’s reaction has alternated between unbelievable hostility and completely ignoring me. They have even yelled at me on the phone for using “non Subaru-approved devices” (4 different Valentine radar detectors, 2 Escorts and one lab device) to measure the radiation. I have never been treated so shabbily by ANY manufacturer. After 17 years of owning Subies I am disappointed, disgusted, discouraged and angry.
I could not possibly sell this car in its current condition. I am left to try to track down the source of the problem on my own.
This is our 5th Subie, and the 12th in our family. Based on the treatment from Subaru of America, it will be the last.
Has anyone else encountered anything like this?
After 8 years and 160,000 miles I am looking to replace the 2002 LL Bean Outback that I so thoroughly researched with the help of the crew here years ago.
My goals are the same as before with modifications:
Magic and Scout (appearing in 2 issues of DRIVE Magazine) are now 13 and 10 respectively and looking forward to a new ride. They have a few questions:
1. The new Outback appears higher. Anyone have advice on which Pet Step works best? These two are 90 pounders, with a bit less steam in their stride.
2. Which model and trim level best approaches the LL Bean? Still interested in the six cylinder engine. Looks like the power moon roof is now an option....
3. What's this about steering wheel vibration? Widespread or rare?
Looking to ride again!
Why not consider the Forester XT Limited (2010) which has better performance thann your 3.0 six and equivalent interior finish. It has almost 4 inches more rear seat room than your Bean. Another choice if you want a chain driven cam like the six is the 2011 normally aspirated Forester which has a new engine design. I would expect the new engine to be more civilized with less noise, vibration and harshness....like the Bean's six.
If the dogs need the luggage room of the Outback, you'll need to buy the 2011 3.6R limited to get the feel and sound level of the Bean. I found the 4 cylinder with CVT vastly inferior to my 2005 3.0R VDC (similar to your Bean, but with stability control):
Hence my purchase of a Forester XT Limited. Also the 2010 Outback ...even the 3.6R..did not have folding mirrors which were essential.
Food for thought, such as yours, is always welcomed.
NO folding mirrors in 2010? What was THAT all about?
Tom
Cost reduction, but in the wrong place. The 2010 six cylinder list price was actually less than the equivalent 2005 by three thousand dollars. But I wouldn't even consider buying one without folding mirrors with local narrow streets. The signal mirrors like on the 2005 may now also be available on a top line 2011. I believe other 2011 Outbacks have regular folding mirrors.
The extra width of the new Outback might be a consideration if you drive on very narrow busy streets. The Forester is considerably narrower on the outside and only one quarter inch narrower on the inside.