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2009 GRAND CARAVAN/T&C FEED BACK

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Comments

  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Dave, what up. LOL
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Shipo, I really do appreciate your posts but you are bringing out the military in me and that is not good. Help me to chill out because life is short man.
    Thanks for being here,
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Are you a mechanic? Just curious because I meant oil seals//sorry about the mistype."

    Former mechanic, current engineer and auto enthusiast. :shades:

    "As for what the 4.0 has we will see very soon. LOL"

    How about a page from the parts guide?

    image

    "The dealer told me not to put anything in my vehicle except 10W30. Do you have a reference that it is ok to use 0W30 in my 4.0?"

    Sorry to say it, but some of the absolute worst advice I've ever gotten about cars and their maintenance has come from the service departments of the dealerships where the cars were purchased. Regarding what is acceptable for use in your car, the technical specifications call for oil that meets the DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395 oil specification and is at least a 10W-30. What that means is that you need an oil that meets the following criteria:

    1) A thirty grade oil when the oil is hot
    2) An oil that is graded no higher than 10W when cold
    3) An oil that meets MS-6395

    Said another way, you need an oil that is either 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 AND meets MS-6395. While it may well be true that most conventional "something-W-thirty" oils that meet MS-6395 are of the 10W-30 grade, that same basic rule doesn't hold true for synthetic oils. Case in point, Mobil 1 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all certified to meet MS-6395. Given that a 0W-30 oil will pump faster and reach critical engine parts sooner (compared to the other two grades) following a cold start (regardless of temperature, but more so when it's cold outside), there is only one oil that I would use in a new 4.0 liter engine, and that's the 0W-30 offering.

    BTW, it seems that more than a few of us on this thread are former military. Semper Fi! ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Thanks man, I was a VOTEC Auto and Electrical instructor before 911. PhD in law. I know! Can't keep a job. However my sordid past caught up with me and I am doing something completely different. LOL
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    No worries. :)

    FWIW, I significantly added to my post after you responded to the first chunk. You might want to page back and look at the rest of it. :blush:

    Best reggards,
    Shipo
  • drdavidbowmandrdavidbowman Member Posts: 26
    There has been a lot of good banter about syinthetic oils here and althow I had never given the matter much thought preveus to this discusion I must say that Im very comfortabul making the switch at this point, once the first oil change comes due.

    Any one know if there are any warranty issues with synthetic oil use?

    PS. you can tell Shipo is a pilot, hes got that precision thing down. I was hoping to get my multiple engine cert before I was 50 but my wife wont let me fly now that we have kids. Don't sweat the military thing, life experience is our greatest strength, even if we get that pit of the stomach nervous feeling just thinking about it. (like I do)

    Dave
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "PS. you can tell Shipo is a pilot, hes got that precision thing down."

    Geez, is it that apparent? :confuse: ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    My dealer may not put the 0W30 in but I will press to test at 6K since my Honda Civic Hybrid uses that and now I will also press to test the Toyota dealer on the Prius as they are stating 5W30. I got 6 free oil changes under contract because of a military discount deal so I would like to use the dealer if I can. Hopefully we will have our CDs soon and we can copy and paste parts lists with Dodge official diagrams. Where did you grab those diagrams?

    BTW/ I called 3 dealers and e-mailed the home office and they would not bite on 0W30 right after I bought the vehicle. I am concerned about the oil being too thin do to the assembly/ engineering tolerances of all the parts. I am really gun shy about doing something the dealer tells me not to do.

    Also Shipo doesn't eat bananas so he can't be a pilot. LOL

    Did that for 20 fraking years and don't ever care to do it again. Very painful. (B-52IP)
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    If we can use the 0W30 without any serious side effects then that is the way to go period. I am just a little gun shy right now. If you think 1 MPG is worth it then go for it with the 10W30 synthetic. You may get 1.5 to 2 with the 0W30. Tire pressure is the main thing that will increase you gas mileage and with those large tires you will not notice the stiff ride like I have in my Prius (195/55/16) at 46PSI. I suggest you do a test for us. Drive one tank at 44PSI cold and give us your results. Then have your oil changed to 0W30, 5W30, 0W40, 10W30 and drive a tank full and give us those results. I already have mine, but you know I am a blind, toothless old man at 108 years old and still working LOL.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Where did you grab those diagrams?"

    www.dodgeparts.com

    "BTW/ I called 3 dealers and e-mailed the home office and they would not bite on 0W30 right after I bought the vehicle."

    Not at all surprising, folks who work for the dealers aren't exactly all that knowledgeable about the equipment they sell and support; I suppose if they were they'd be working for the mother corporation designing the vehicles instead of selling and maintaining them. Like I said before, some of the absolute worst automotive related maintenance advice I've ever heard came from the mouths of service technicians and service managers.

    "I am concerned about the oil being too thin do to the assembly/ engineering tolerances of all the parts. I am really gun shy about doing something the dealer tells me not to do."

    I'm not at all sure I understand that. In spite of the "0W" grading of the cold flow properties of 0W-30 oils, the fact remains that they are still way too thick when cold for anything other than moderate driving until the engine (and the oil) warm up. By definition, once warmed up there should be virtually no difference between the flow and viscosity properties of 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 or even straight 30 weight oil.

    "Also Shipo doesn't eat bananas so he can't be a pilot. LOL

    Did that for 20 fraking years and don't ever care to do it again. Very painful. (B-52IP)"


    Twenty years? Ouch, my hat's off to ya. I'm more of a glider and tail dragging Cessna 170B kind of guy. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • drivmywifecrzydrivmywifecrzy Member Posts: 61
    So I just got my oil changed and I have 76,000 miles on the vehicle. They tell me the oil pan gasket is leaking and will cost $275 to repair. How overpriced is this?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    How overpriced? Extremely. Why? Because there is nothing below the oil pan on these vans. Simply remove the bolts, drop the pan, clean the surfaces, slap in a new gasket and put it all back together.

    That said, the oil pan gaskets aren't known for leaking on these engines, however, the valve cover gaskets are. I'm thinking that I'd find a good independent mechanic and get a second opinion.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Ditto on the second opinion.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Hey man I did not see a water pump/where is it on this engine? Also no tensioner assembly?

    trivia /// How do you check the oil in the transmission when you drain it? Does the dealer have a magic dip stick. Crap.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The water pump is on a different illustration than the one I posted earlier. If you go to http://www.dodgeparts.com and lookup the cooling system for a 2008 DGC, you'll be able to view the illustration for that part. :shades:

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Haven't made the purchase just yet (gotta get the condo re-financed 1st :( )

    Anywho; test drove the Honda Odyssey EX, & Chrysler T&C Touring w/25th Anniversary package this past week.

    Gotta say of these 2 I liked the Chrysler better; more supple ride along with less wind/road noise. The Honda did however have better handling (hell it's a mini-van so it's rather a moot point IMO), & the engine was more powerful/responsive/refined (the T&C had the old but true 3.8L pushrod V6).

    Before I make my final decision I'll have to test drive the Sienna, but for now me likey the T&C.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Nice site but the parts are scattered around on different diagrams. But a good source to find stuff.
    I found the tensioner assembly with no diagram.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    The GC has a touring suspension option on the SXT with leather.

    The financing deals are over and you are on your own or GMAC. ARGH!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Chrysler set to close four plants
    Bankrupt automaker identified four facilities set to shut down by end of 2010 in its Chapter 11 filing; almost 5,000 jobs at risk.

    The Sterling Heights assembly plant is one of four Chrysler plants identified to be closed in a bankruptcy court filing Friday.
    DETROIT'S DOWNFALL
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    Chrysler set to close four plants
    Auto sales plunge, but outlook improves

    NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- Bankrupt automaker Chrysler LLC identified four plants with almost 5,000 jobs between them slated for closure by the end of next year, according to a filing with the bankruptcy court Friday.

    The plants on the chopping block are the Sterling Heights, Mich., assembly plant that makes the Chrysler Sebring and Dodge Avenger; the St. Louis North assembly plant that builds the Dodge Ram pickup; the Twinsburg, Ohio stamping plant and an engine plant in Kenosha, Wisc.

    The St. Louis plant could close as soon as this September, while the Twinsburg plant is slated to close by March. The Kenosha plant would be shut in October 2010 while Sterling Heights would close in December 2010.

    While the Chrysler media site lists almost 4,700 jobs at those four plants, company spokesman Ed Garsten said the company is not announcing job cuts as part of the filing. He said the company could transfer these workers to new facilities depending on how fast it starts production of new Fiat cars for the North American market.

    0:00 /1:34Chrysler workers react
    In addition, the filing identified the Detroit Axle plant as being closed, but that facility, which employs about 1,650 workers, was previously set for closure. Most of the workers are expected to be transferred to a more efficient plant now under construction, Garsten said.

    The Conner Avenue plant in Detroit, where 115 workers make the niche Viper muscle car, will not stay with the company after bankruptcy, according to the filing. But Chrysler had already said that the Viper model and the plant were up for sale.

    A plant in Newark, Del. and another one St. Louis that are already closed will not be part of the company after it emerges from bankruptcy either.

    The company has just under 39,000 U.S. employees who are affected by the company's bankruptcy filing Thursday. Chrysler also said in its filing that 23 plants in North America will remain following the company's exit from bankruptcy.

    The company and the United Auto Workers union filed petitions to keep the new labor deal, ratified by membership late Wednesday, while the company is in bankruptcy.

    But virtually all of Chrysler's plants will be shut down for the 30 to 60 day period that the company expects to be in bankruptcy. During that time, Chrysler will work to close a deal to join with Italian automaker Fiat. Workers will be paid about 80% of their normal pay during this temporary layoff.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Chill out, Chrysler owners
    The word 'bankruptcy' sounds scary but there's good news here, too.

    Prices on new and used Chrysler cars will probably drop, at least for a while, on news the company is filing for bankruptcy.
    Photos

    Fiat: Chrysler's Italian style
    Americans could see some fresh Italian faces as Chrylser's deal with Fiat takes shape View photosFind your next Car

    DETROIT'S DOWNFALL
    New loans for car dealers - but will they help?
    Chrysler aftershocks to hit industry hard
    Speed of the essence: Chrysler lawyer
    Chrysler set to close four plants
    Auto sales plunge, but outlook improves

    NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- The word "bankruptcy" in headlines along with the name of the company that made your car - or a car you're thinking about buying - could send your blood pressure soaring.

    Now relax. While, this may not be the best news you could have heard, it's far from the worst.

    "I'm more reassured," said Jack Nerad, executive editorial director at the automotive data company Kelley Blue Book, "I think people should be reassured."

    There's actually far more certainty regarding the future of Chrysler today than there was even a week ago.

    With Chrysler continuing to operate, your warranty will still be intact and there will still be Chrysler dealers out there to service your car. There may be fewer of them in the future, as Chrysler has said it intends to reduce the number of dealers, but they will be there.

    That's because, in the past few days, deals have been worked out with Chrysler's major debt holders, the United Auto Workers and the Italian automaker Fiat, which stands ready to enter its deal with Chrysler as part of bankruptcy proceedings.

    What all this means is the company is not going to go belly up right now and, quite possibly, not in the foreseeable future. There are still significant risks for Chrysler but, on balance, the news is probably good for Chrysler and those who own its products.

    Through the bankruptcy process and the deals it has already made with lenders and its unions, Chrysler will have cleared away a huge swath of problems.

    That could ultimately leave Chrysler able to concentrate on things like better cars and trucks.

    The Fiat deal will help a there, too, by giving Chrysler access to Fiat's fuel efficient small cars as well as engines and transmissions that can be used in Chrysler-designed products.

    In the long term, there are still significant risks for Chrysler. It's not certain how well the partnership with Fiat will turn out. Chrysler's restructuring is not solely in the hands of Treasury Dept., a bankruptcy judge will have the final say. Still, Treasury's plan for the company's future will most likely hold.

    If you're thinking about buying a Chrysler car or truck, one difference you will encounter is who finances your car. From here on out it'll be GMAC, not Chrysler Financial.

    In the short run, a lot of consumers probably will be scared away from Chrysler showrooms. Many are likely to even avoid Chrysler's used cars.

    "I've got to think that hearing 'bankruptcy' attached to a brand will diminish their value," said Nerad.

    The change in value wouldn't be enormous, he said, only because there's been a cloud over Chrysler for a long time. That cloud will begin to clear as people realize that Chrysler isn't about to go away.

    This means that, if you're thinking of trading in or selling a Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep product, this wouldn't be the time to do it. Wait until things settle down a little more, when consumers get used to the idea that Chrysler has not gone bust.

    For now, Chrysler is still here and has been given another chance to win back customers.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    I honestly am not too concerned that GMAC is taking over; I wouldn't be too surprised to see Chrysler/GMAC offer similar, or better "deals" this month, or possibly later in June...Either way I'm a fairly patient guy; don't need the mini-van just yet ;)
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    I would like to see parts onsale. I would like to swap out my radio as it did not come with navigation or blue tooth or DVD.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Data point. All my vehicles get less MPG when my wife drives.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Looks like you will get 4K plus 1K(return customer) plus 1K credit union discount. Maybe another dealer discount in addition to that. Ready to buy another one?
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Last month many here felt I should offer $10,000 off the MSRP; anyone think I could get the $10 grand, or more this month?

    Took a Sienna LE8 out for a spin last night; thought it was nicer than the Odyssey EX (Sienna has a softer ride/less road noise), but the Mrs, & I still like the T&C better :)

    Now if we can only get this bloody re-financing done.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Depends on if it is loaded. If it is you should try again and make an offer. 10K is a bridge too far in my opinion but give it a try. Most likely it will be 7-8K if you are lucky.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Can anyone here give me an idea of the reliability of both the 3.8, & 4.0 engines offered?...At this point I'm impartial; the T&C my wife, & I drove had the 3.8, & it seemed adequate.

    Is the sport tuned suspension on the Dodge GC anything like the Odyssey?...We test drove the Odyssey, & didn't care for the ride since we could feel every crack/bump from the wonderful roads here in WI (heavy on the sarcasm - roads here are pretty bad)...The standard suspension we had in the T&C seemed quite nice.

    Thanks in advance!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The 4.0 engine is a fairly new design that has yet to be on the market long enough for reports of high mileage to start hitting the internet, that said, the 3.8 has been around for at least fifteen years and has a reputation of lasting for hundreds of thousands of miles with just regular maintenance.

    The thing is, there is, in my mind at least, little doubt that the 4.0 will be capable of running for hundreds of thousands of miles as well.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    From what I recall (from reading an article in Motor Trend a few years ago) isn't the 3.8 a 3.3 with an increase in both bore, & stroke?...Anywho it's good to hear from a "salty vet" like you Shipo on these engines (I'm new to all things MOPAR) ;)

    The Mrs likes the looks/styling of the T&C more so than the GC; not many 4.0 in the T&C so it looks like I may be "stuck" with the 3.8; no big deal to me since I'm more concerned with long-term reliability than just about anything else.

    Test drove the Sienna LE8 last week; nice, but we still like the T&C best.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    We've had two 3.8 liter engines and they have proven to be HIGHLY reliable. The engine in our 1998 was running as well the day I traded it in at 170,000 miles as it did the day I drove it off the showroom floor, that and it was still delivering fuel economy that was as good as anything it had ever recorded. The engine in our 2003 only has 121,000 miles on it and it too is running as efficiently as it did the day it came off the showroom floor. So far at least, neither engine has required anything more than periodic oil and filter changes and a tune-up at the 100,000+ mile mark.

    FWIW, I ran/run Mobil 1 in both engines, and once outside the warranty period I switched them from the 0W-30 grade to 0W-40. I've had three Used Oil Analysis tests run on oil from each van and per the results, the 0W-40 is good to go for about 12,000 miles (altough to be on the safe side I target my oil changes at 10,000 miles).

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • desi1desi1 Member Posts: 40
    Shipo,

    Your expert comments/feedback would be appreciated...

    We got a 2009 T&C 25 Anniv Edition 28L Pkg & 4.0 engine upgrade a month ago. In addition, we got the B2B (not exactly but close) Maxcare Lifetime/Unlimited Miles warranty from Chrysler ($1875).

    I have read your detailed comments on 0W-40 on your other posts and want to ask what should be the recommended schedule for me to follow for oil changes moving forward, keeping in mind the lifetime warranty, some dealers' reluctance to add 0W-40 (from others' posts), etc., in mind? We intend to keep it until the wheels fall off.

    I anticipate running on the current oil until the 1st oil chnage and would be interested in switching to your recommended 0W-40.

    Thanks,

    SS
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    This whole lifetime warranty think kinda puts a kink into what I'd do if I was to buy a new minivan. As a general rule, I follow the manufacturer's maintenance recommendations until the warranty period runs out (both of our vans came with 3/36 warranties; we somehow missed out on the 7/70 by a few months in each case), and then "do what I wanna do" (which in the case of our two DGC was to switch them to Mobil 1 0W-40 and extend the Oil Change Interval (OCI)).

    In the case of both the 3.8 and the 4.0 liter engine, they call for oil that meets the Chrysler MS-6395 oil specification, primarily 5W-20 for the 3.8 and 10W-30 for the 4.0. However, given that I'm an absolute believer that the lower the first number and the higher (to a point) the second number, the better protected my engines will be, I'd most likely use Mobil 1 0W-30 for the life of either engine. Why? A few points:

    - The 3.3 and 3.8 liter engines originally called for 5W-30 (and still do when sold in Europe), so "something-W-30" isn’t at all too thick.
    - The 4.0 calls for 10W-30.
    - Anything a conventional 5W-30 or 10W-30 can do, a synthetic 0W-30 can do better. Period, full stop, the end.
    - Mobil 1 0W-30 and 5W-30 are the only "something-W-30" oils on the market other than 10W-30 that meet the MS-6395 oil specification.

    The only other issue with regard to the lifetime warranty is that I'd be forced to stay with short oil change intervals (versus the 10,000+ mile changes that I'm using now).

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • desi1desi1 Member Posts: 40
    Thanks Shipo for your feedback.

    With short oil changes with 10W-30 (regular) compared to 0W-40 (or 30, synthetic), is the outcome in terms of engine protection and other benefits relatively the same?

    I am asking if a higher frequency of lower performance (only comparatively) regular oil changes will compensate for the lack of higher performance synthetic oil?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Will a higher frequency of changes with conventional oil roughly equate to the same amount of engine wear in an engine using long intervals and synthetic oil? As with most things in life, it depends.

    If you are comparing two identical vehicles, one running 10W-30 conventional oil changed every three to five thousand miles, and the other running a synthetic 0W-30 changed every ten to twelve thousand miles, and both are started up once per tank of fuel and driven non-stop until the next fill-up is necessary, then there will be virtually no difference between the wear on the two engines.

    However, given the superior cold flow properties of a 0W-30 compared to a 10W-30, if the two subject vehicles are driven in cold weather and/or are frequently cold-started and only driven a few miles per start, then the engine with the 0W-30 will last significantly longer, in spite of the fact that the engine with synthetic oil will be run much further per oil change.

    Best regards.
    Shipo
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    My two cents on the 3.8/3.3 pushrod V6... we purchased a new 1994 Grand Caravan ES in July 1994. The engine was bullet-proof until November 2007, when the front bank head gasket let go at 162,000 miles. I had changed coolant religiously at 24,000 mile intervals, but I guess it was just "time." I was surprised, but not shocked. Nevertheless, I replaced both head gaskets myself - took some time - but, was actually a pretty easy job for one who's used to working on European cars which are much more difficult to work on.

    I'd been using Mobil 1 5W-30 since break in, and while I had the heads off, you could still see the factory cross-hatch honing marks in the cylinder bores.

    The 3.3L, although down on torque in the GC, was an excellent engine, and typically delivered 26MPG on the highway while using the A/C. The only other engine-related part replaced over the 13 year period was one serpentine belt tensioner and a starter.

    The bottom end on the 3.8/3.3 isn't the strongest in the world, but for everyday driving, this engine is very reliable. I'd vote for the 3.8L.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yeah, I pulled the heads off of our 1998 3.8 at 143,625 miles in search of a slow coolant leak (which turned out to be a $0.10 "O" ring elsewhere in the cooling system), and while I didn't find a leaking head-gasket, I too saw a full compliment of honing marks on the cylinder walls (see the picture in the post at the following link). Good stuff that Mobil 1. :)

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1cb076/92

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I hate to say it, but I saw that coming. I actually expected Cerberus to sell of the company in chunks to the highest bidders. Hopefully this development will work out to the benefit of current owners, whose "lifetime" warranties might actually be worth something in the coming years.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • desi1desi1 Member Posts: 40
    Thanks for all the learning.

    Will the warranty be voided if I insisted and used 0W-30 synthetic and changed oil every 10K miles.

    I have not had an opportunity to go through the fine print on the warranty so am asking if you already have this information.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Getting outside of my areas of knowledge here...

    That said, it is my understanding that there is no way for Chrysler to "Void your warranty", however, any given dealer can refuse to perform any engine work should it become necessary; and if worse comes to worst, that will leave you to bring a law suit against them and Chrysler.

    The 0W-30 isn't the issue as it's MS-6395 certified, however, the extended oil change interval is problematic. In theory at least, you can have your oil analyzed every so often, and that in turn will show you information that will most likely point to a problem if one is in the making, or (more likely) affirm that your engine is in good health and being properly lubricated. Such UOAs will further a case against those responsible for fixing the engine should such repairs ever become necessary, however, changing the oil in time is the cheapest insurance.

    Were it that I had a new Chrysler with a "lifetime power train warranty", I'd opt for the Mobil 1 and simply change it when the maintenance system says to change it. Yes, I'll be throwing away oil that has plenty of life in it, but that's cheaper than having a UOA performed after every oil change, and cheaper still if I need to prove to a dealership that my vehicle has been properly maintained.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • desi1desi1 Member Posts: 40
    Okay. Thanks for the help. I will keep everyone posted of my experience once my first oil change comes due!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    IMHO, I would use full synthetic 5W30 for the 3.8/3.3 and 10W30 for the 4.0. Keep detailed receipts for warranty purposes and change your oil when the manual says to do it or earlier. In cold climates 0W30 may be authorized. I am going to press to test at the next oil change but if they threaten to write wrong oil on the receipt I am not going there folks.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If you plan on keeping the van for a long time and live in an area where it gets cold and/or do lots of short tips with your van, then you'll be doing yourself a great disservice by using 10W-30.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • desi1desi1 Member Posts: 40
    Thanks for all your help!

    For reference, I am in Toledo, OH, and the temprature does go down to about -20 F. Also, we would be taking several short trips. I will keep everyone posted of my experience during the first oil change.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    It's hot where i live man. LOL
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Then using a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 is probably of no benefit for you.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Scheduled Delivery: 05/14/2009 SERVICE MANUALS//

    Yahoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    1. Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
    2. Remove the dipstick tube cap.

    WARNING: There is a risk of accident from vehicle starting off by itself when engine is running. There is a risk of injury from contusions and burns if you insert your hands into the engine when it is started or when it is running. Secure vehicle to prevent it from moving off by itself. Wear properly fastened and close-fitting work clothes. Do not touch hot or rotating parts.

    3. Actuate the service brake. Start engine and let it run at idle speed in selector lever position "P".
    4. Shift through the transmission modes several times with the vehicle stationary and the engine idling.

    NOTE: When inserting dipstick special tool 9336, excess insertion force may cause the dipstick to slip past the stop on the bracket in the transmission oil pan. An approximate distance that the dipstick sould be inserted into the fill tube is 424 mm (16.69 in.).
    5. Warm up the transmission, wait at least 2 minutes and check the oil level with the engine running. Push the Oil Dipstick 9336 into transmission fill tube until the dipstick tip contacts the oil pan and pull out again, read off oil level, repeat if necessary.

    NOTE: The dipstick will protrude from the fill tube when installed.
    6. Check transmission oil temperature using the appropriate scan tool.
    7. The transmission Oil Dipstick 9336 has indicator marks every 10 mm. Determine the height of the oil level on the dipstick and using the height, the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) as viewed with the scan too, and the Transmission Fluid Graph, determine if the transmission oil level is correct.
    8. Add or remove oil as necessary and recheck the oil level.
    9. Once the oil level is correct, install the dipstick tube cap
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    50% of one cd. I was expecting several CDs. Oh well!
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Not wanting to sound redundant, but does anyone know if this package causes the ride to be a bit more harsh/bumps more pronounced?...Seems as though there are quite a few new 2009 T&C in my neck of the woods with this option; even though I don't plan on using this vehicle for towing - is it a package worth spending the extra $$$ on?
This discussion has been closed.