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I am still trying to figure out the different driving modes. I use EV in parking lots or short trips in the streets of subdivisions, in which I drive very slowly. Mostly I drive in ECO mode, but I am not sure if initially it is better to start off in regular mode to get the car up to initial driving speed quickly and then switch to ECO mode or to use ECO mode and slowly get the car up to speed and then remain in ECO mode. The EV mode is a little erratic until you get the car heated up and even afterward it sometime says I am going at too high a speed when I am actually going about 15 mph. I try to slow down when coming to a light in B mode and sit at stop signs and at lights in B mode; I heard that this helps fuel economy. since I previously had a standard transmission shifting modes is pretty automatic for me; like shifting gears. Does anyone know if this does save fuel? I have never seen my battery indicator at full charge; the most I have seen it is at around 3/4 (maybe a little higher) and once very briefly it went down to around 1/3. Is this normal?
One minor concern is a sensor noise I hear when i step on the brake to start the car up and when coming to a full stop; it is the same noise you hear when opening the door I believe, or very similar. I don't think I always hear it; you cannot perceive it when you step on the brake to slow the car while driving. I will take it in to the dealer to check but the car works fine and I am not too worried about it.
Performance: very normal; power in regular mode is probably better than I expected. Sometimes when i listen for it I think the ride is kind of noisy; but then I listen again and I say it is actually pretty quiet! Starting and stopping is so quiet i have to remember that the car is on and not to leave the car before turning it off. I think they should make the "P" button also a turn off button. i find myself pretty engrossed in the readouts and wonder if i will have an accident one day because I am paying more attention to them than the road. I sometimes think I should have had lumbar support in the seat; but i felt that way about my previous car, a Sonata, and then quickly adjusted and like the car very much. I am accustomed to pretty big cars and I think the steering on this one, probably because it is lighter, is a little more active. Back seats are roomier than most people give credit for (but my family is short). The radio might be a littel weaker than in my other cars, but the sound is very good. I might get satellite radio in any case. Someone pointed out to me that there is quite a large blind area out the rear window, and now that they have mentioned it I do see what they mean. But I really did not notice prior to that.
Would any of the "negatives' that i mentioned cause me from buying the car if i had it to do over again? Probably not. They are mostly the kind of thing I can easily live with and the positive factors probably would have outweighed the negatives. This is just a solid riding, normal driving car which I expect to give me excellent service at a very moderate cost. The most important things to me are safety, trouble free service, and value. I might add that there is something exhilariating about driving in to the gas station at the point I usually do for a fill up and then putting in only 9 gallons of gas! I also like the environmental impact of the car as well as the economy. I also still think i got an outstanding deal at 20792 (out the door but without tax). I purchased from Sandy Springs Toyota in Atlanta and my sales person was Ivars Kikulis; I woudl buy there again. I had also dealt a little with Piority Toyota in Richmond, VA, and I would stay away from that one.
If you have any suggestions on driving mode, the sensor noise I hear when braking or anything else let me know!
I thought the car had to be warmed up to use EV mode. How about my use; the parking lot in the supermarket or the 1 mile or so from my driveway out of the subdivision in which I live?
One last thing; I did not get how to change the setting on th door lock so that when I open the driver's side door all of the other doors open. I did read the book about this but was a bit rushed (and i still must watch the DVD) Or must you use either the key or the unlock button inside the car for that? Obviously to open the hatch without opening the driver's side you must us the key, right? If it is clear in the book no need to write.
Very much appreciate you taking the time to correct me.
You can get ev to work in your driveway if you keep it under a few mph, even if cold. It is good for shuffling cars around like to wash a car in your driveway. That is pretty much the only time ev should be used. I wouldn’t use it the way you are unless a large downhill is in your future like out of your subdivision and you can use ev to drain the battery in advance of the large hill. Otherwise, it’s a gimmick and you should let the car figure out what is best.
The manual tells you how to reset the key. I did it but can’t remember how. You can open the hatch even if all doors are locked, if you have a key in your pocket.
Check out priuschat.com.
Sounds like the EV mode doesn't have much use. will the car automatically enter into it at any point as i think the Insight does?
In any case, you are correct, nothing is a bigger ripoff than a factory NAV unit. You can get a Garmin with lifetime free traffic for $100 or less ($120-140 for a wide-screen model). Every factory system I have tried is out of date - way more than Garmin or TomTom (and those are out of date too). The biggest problem is that the factory NAV units lack the ability to navigate on back roads in out of the way places. Once you get off the main drag anywhere in small town America you are out of luck. They have the images of the streets, but can't route you on them.
$1000 drive OTD and $208/mo (after tax) for 35 month, 12K mi/yr
is that good deal? I don't like to pay for the NAV since it's just too fancy for regular use However, I do like the bluetooth & CD changer, mp3 player all the time
What was the negotiated selling price on the car?
Maybe because all toyota dealers have $1000 matching for down payment until Nov. 1, we can have a better price than last month? The cap before adjusted is about 232xx and money factor is 0.00009, if my memory serves ...
Thanks for your consideration,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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Share your vehicle reviews
What dealership did you make it ?
What would be the price for Prius III without Nav ??
Thanks
thanks
Amar
Negotiated price 24884
residual 15857 (57%)
Initial down $500 (Toyota matching $500)
Money Factor .00009
First payment $689 + $500 = $1189
Monthly payment incl. tax $270
Is this good?
ORun
Very vague.
Lease term 36 months/36k miles
MSRP $27010
- Special color fee (Blizzard Pearl) $220 - has anyone heard about this?
- TDA (Advertising fees) $429
Both above fees included in MSRP/Invoice
Also, does TFS allow lease transfer in case one has to get out before 36 months?
MSRP $27010
Invoice $25384
(Lease) Price $24884
(Lease) Price is $500 below invoice and then a $500 match.
Has anyone transferred a lease for Prius or another Toyota vehicle, when the vehicle was leased through Toyota Financial.
thanks
ORun
2010 Prius II w/ cloth
36 Mo / 45,000 Mile Lease (15K / Yr)
$1500 total at closing (includes payment #1)
Total monthly payment: $242
Location: SW Florida
Please let me know if this is a good deal in comparison to what others are paying out there. Thank you very much.
MSRP: $30,040
INVOICE: $28,142
Invoice less incentives= $27,484 PLUS T/L
Thanks!
Even though I went in not wanting to be sold on "extras", I was=( There is a 60 day refund policy on everything so I can change my mind...
1) GAP: $495
2) Platinum Extra Care (8 years/125k miles) - I won't keep it past 5-6ish years and I dive 10k a year. He told me it's good for the next owner, but I generally don't sell private. This cost me $1675
3) Premium Auto Care - while new Toyotas come with 2 year free maintenance I was sold on this extra care for $495. I think it's for 1 extra year, I don't even remember what else the guy said.
Anyhow, would really appreciate some advice. Should I cancel? I do want peace of mind and I know it's a complicated vehicle, I just don't want to be ripped off at point of sale.
Side note: Any thoughts on window tinting? I'm about to do 30 on all windows. Too dark? It's illegal where I live to do the front ones, so I'm considering just doing rear windows.
GAP is not worth much on a car that is being paid off in 36 months.
The maintenance package is a complete waste of money for 1 year extra coverage.
The extended warranty is way overpriced and way too high mileage for you if you only drive 10K miles per year and normally trade in.
Just cancel all of it. You have 3 years to think about and shop for an extended warranty for a better price if you are scared of repairs after 36K miles.
The hybrid system including the battery is already factory covered by the free included warranty for at least 8 years. An extended warranty adds no extra coverage for the battery or hybrid system parts.
When the car is about 2 1/2 years old, you can reevaluate how much longer and how many more miles you will keep the car and decide which extended warranty term you want to get, if any.
Since they were able to pressure you into buying these things even though you didn't intend to buy any of it, they will probably also try to talk you into keeping it or maybe giving you a "discount" to keep it, but don't let them scam you a second time.
Obviously, do not buy tint from these people either. Check with locals where the best place to get tint is.
The extra maintenance will cover 2 extra years (so 4 total) and 45k, which will cover the 30k service.
The 30K service isn't that costly if you don't overpay and don't get extra unneeded services done.
They sold you an overpriced GAP policy on a 36 month loan, so you can bet they didn't sell you a bargain money-saving prepaid maintenance package.