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2010 Honda Accord

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Comments

  • johngf1johngf1 Member Posts: 37
    edited July 2010
    On occasion, my 2010 Accord Coupe (4CY) seems to lose a/c efficiency after I accelerate and then slow down when stopping. It happens when the outside temperature is in the eighties. Has anyone encountered this situation? Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Do you feel the A/C get warm as you give heavy throttle inputs? This is the car maximizing available power by disengaging the A/C because it thinks you are trying to accelerate very quickly. Be more gentle with your throttle inputs and it won't disengage it.

    If that's not what you're saying, I'm sorry I got it misconstrued.
  • johngf1johngf1 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the reply. Your answer exactly sounds like what is happening to my car but I'm not really happy if that is the case. I've always had a lead foot but I've never heard of such a thing. I'll follow up with Honda; maybe I should have bought the v-6 but I didn't want another gas guzzler. In many, many years of driving, I've never had this problem. My only other 4 cy, 2007 Camry LE, never exhibited such a problem. Thanks again for the info.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Frankly, I've never driven a car that didn't do this, my GF's Santa Fe, her friend's Grand Prix, and my parents' 08 Taurus. It only does it under hard acceleration though (4k+ RPM gearchanges in an automatic) so I've never found it to be a problem. It's a "problem" to you, but it honestly isn't a "malfunction" technically, as it sounds like it is operating as intended.

    Outside of that, are you enjoying your new Accord?

    And, be glad its in the eighties. Being a guy with a TV weather background, I'll tell ya portions of our area are under an "Excessive Heat Warning" with heat indicies in the 110s. Now THAT will test your A/C endurance (and your personal heat endurance)!
  • lizbhulizbhu Member Posts: 2
    I have a new 2010 Honda Accord. Too often I put the key and it will not turn - sometimes the wheels are locked and sometimes they are not. It seems to me that you should be able to get in the car and turn the key. Pulling on the steering wheel with both hands should not be necessary. The dealership says it is the wheel lock, but it is as if they key won't go in all the way to begin with.
    Anyone else having these issues?
  • rcummelinrcummelin Member Posts: 184
    Yep! That has happened with every Honda we have owned and every Toyota & Ford too. If the front wheels are not perfectly straight when you shut the car off (& remove the key) the front wheels may lock and you will have to "jiggle" the steering wheel to unlock them before the key will turn when you reinsert it.

    Steering wheel locks have been around since 1970, but are implemented differently by the manufacturers. When the key is mounted on the steering column, like our Hondas, it is a mechanical interface between the key & the lock. Other manufacturers use an electrical/electronic solenoid for the wheel lock and there's no resistance/difficulty with the key.
  • lizbhulizbhu Member Posts: 2
    Jiggling is one thing - having to hang on the steering wheel is another. And, the wheels don't unlock. For the most part it only happens in the mornings, but we will pay more attention and see what else we can determine.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This happened to my Chevy truck just the other day. I know exactly what happened. When I was getting out, I mistakenly pulled on the steering wheel. The wheel turned to the left, and locked in that position. When I returned to leave, the key was very difficult to turn. Then I remembered what I did. I had to pull the steering wheel to the left (hard), then the key would turn. If you pull on the steering wheel, when you get out of the car, and it locks in the turned position, you will have the same difficulty. I've found that the steering wheel will not lock, until you turn it with the key turned off. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    All cars do this when you punch down on the accelerator. The vacuum is redirected to give the car power. I had a Ford Expedition which did this when we were in the mountains. The A/C would cut out when we were accelerating on the mountain climb.
  • rcummelinrcummelin Member Posts: 184
    I believe elroy's right--it's the steering wheel that locks when it is turned (even a small amount) while exiting the car. Then the pressure from the steering mechanism applies a sideways pressure which means you have to work against that by pulling on the wheel to get the key to turn. Welcome to Honda ownership! ;)
  • johngf1johngf1 Member Posts: 37
    Love the coupe - great looks and handling but could and should be faster w/ 190 HP. Over 30 mph last week in trip to mountainous Vermont. The a/c really bothers me though. Again I guess its the 4 cy but I drove from Florida to NY last year in a 2009 Accord 4 dr 4 cy and never encountered the ac problem. I can live with it but I'm still not happy.
    Thanks for your comments.
  • jackson73jackson73 Member Posts: 1
    I'm preparing to purchase a 2010 V6 in Ohio. The sticker is 29,800, and very readily the dealer dropped the price to 25k and change due to cash from Honda. My question is this: How much lower can I begin to negotiate? It appears to me that they still have plenty of room.

    Thanks.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    I would say that is already pretty low.
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Member Posts: 275
    I'd be happy with that price. Tell him to prep it for you and go on out and enjoy it. It's a great price for a great car. Any further haggling may put a few dollars in your pocket but leave you with a bad taste over the experience.
  • blankyblanky Member Posts: 1
    I bought last weekend, same model (sticker 29,815 + mud flaps). I talked them down to 24,500 (with 1200 off) or 25,700 (with 0.9% financing). I was then able to get the edmunds suggested trade-in price for my old civic. I was satisfied with that deal. ended up taking the extra 1200 off, and got 2.0% bank financing. total out of pocket was less.
  • thomasr1950thomasr1950 Member Posts: 76
    Anyone had issues with the door panes on the Coupe? This is next the windows at the top of the doors. I've had my car 2 monthsthe black panels discolored. The dealer replace both last week, now they are already discolored again. I don't have any idea what causes this or how to fix it. It looks like oil from the arm makes them discolor. It shouldn't though.
  • stevestr1stevestr1 Member Posts: 6
    I turned in my 07 EX-L and went right into another EX-L without test driving it.
    The 07 drivers seat seems to be much more comfortable than the new 2010 seat.
    Anyone else experience this? Besides that everything else about the car is very nice.
    Completely revamped over the 07 model. I wish they came with a built in power inverter for my laptop but I guess you cant have everything. Bluetooth is a nice feature.
  • ahqahq Member Posts: 37
    My 2010 LX Sedan has black door panels. I've had it for 2.5 months so far. One day, my mom, who was sitting in the passenger seat on a sunny day, held a newspaper in front of her head, alongside the window, to block out the sun. In the process, the newspaper brushed alongside the door panel a few times and was stored in the door pocket. There were blue-ish newspaper ink streaks that were picked up by the plastic on the door panel! Pretty amazing - and disappointing. Fortunately, I was able to get most of the newsprint ink out by scrubbing it off with a damp cloth.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I don't think you can blame Honda for that. I would blame the ink manufacturer for designing ink that easily rubs off the paper.

    Mrbill
  • loucopitsloucopits Member Posts: 103
    1. Are your door handles very stiff? Mine are, all 4 inside and outside.

    2. Every time I pull in the garage there is a slight engine surge as I creep forward. Normal?
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    Putting cloth in the most used area of the car isn't the best idea. It should atleast be like the upper trims, not cloth, wouldn't have to be leather, but a good point that could have been addressed better.

    I used to have an 06 Accord SE, with black cloth. Loved it. Cozier. However, I have a leased car with leather now, I don't see myself going back to cloth. The dirt and upkeep of vacuuming and more people using my car now than before would hurt any cloth you may have. My leather looks like the day I bought it.

    Pros and cons to both.
  • degsdegs Member Posts: 1
    This sounds like the exact same problem I am having with my 2010 Honda Accord. But this Accord is the 5th one I have leased since 1998 and I have never had a major issue. I have notice that the front end popping/knocking does not happen all the time but only after breaking frequently, as when stuck in freeway backup. And the noise continues at low speed up to 15-20 mph, so I not convinced its only the break. The car has only been in the shop once for 3000 mile oil change and to check this noise (nothing was found or done) but now has 5000 miles after driving on vacation. I will be contacting my dealer to take the car in again. This sounds like a design or part defect to me. My 2007 Accord was the model year before the 2010 and did not have this problem.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    2. Every time I pull in the garage there is a slight engine surge as I creep forward. Normal?

    I suspect you may be experiencing the A/C cutting off/on. When the compressor turns off, it allows a bit more power to the wheels that is no longer powering the A/C. It shouldn't change RPM more than 50-100 though.
  • loucopitsloucopits Member Posts: 103
    A/C was not on.

    It felt like it wanted a downshift.
  • thomasj49thomasj49 Member Posts: 8
    As for the door handles, yes mine have been stiff since day1, especially the drivers door. Sometimes I swear it's locked even though it's not, and sometimes I think somethings gonna break by pulling it so hard. This happens on both the outside and inside handles. :cry:

    I also pull my car into the garage every day and probably get what I would consider a really small surge, nothing that I would be overly concerned about though. :D
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    You might want to talk to the dealer. My 04 I4 Accord also had a slight surge when pulling in/out of my garage. It was past annoying to the point of almost dangerous. Eventually they did release a TSB on the problem. It required re-programming the computer, and it successfully took care of my problem. Maybe there is a TSB for yours?

    Mrbill
  • loucopitsloucopits Member Posts: 103
    I'll check for any TSBs. There used to be an Internet site with all TSBs, I'll see if it still exists.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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  • zatireszatires Member Posts: 39
    Anybody having this issue?
    2010 EX-L

    When nobody is sitting on the passenger seat, the headrest of the seat is making a ticking sound, clicking sound when the road is not smooth, which mainly is most of my driving.

    And thus it is driving me nuts. If I end up holding the headrest it does not make the sound. Will need to take it to dealer when the service is due, but i do not know if they will actually fix anything.

    I also have a rattle in the steering wheel, on the horn cover. When you put a little bit pressure on the horn cover plastic it stops the rattle.

    And of course the door handles.

    Crazy. This much sound coming from a door handle while trying to open the door. This is not supposed to be a truck from the 80s.

    Anybody having the same issues, and got them fixed somehow?
  • kingrkingr Member Posts: 62
    Is this normal? Have an EX-L V6 Sedan, When I first put the car in drive mostly notice after backing out of a space then going to drive, I hear a noticeable click sound when I first start driving, I'm thinking it's normal but wanted to check with other owners.


    Thanks
  • rcummelinrcummelin Member Posts: 184
    It's normal. Something like the anti-lock brakes doing a self-test--whatever, they all do it.

    Yes, my door handles are also stiff & noisy and seem to be getting worse as time goes on. bizarre.
  • circlecitysuecirclecitysue Member Posts: 1
    We bought our 2010 Accord V-6 in November, have 11k+ miles on it, and haven't noticed any tranny problems. The VCM is noticeable at first, but when you get accustomed to it, it's hardly noticeable. When accelerating rapidly, you'll notice the nice, tight shifting as if you're doing it manually, which I really like.

    We have noticed the quirky driver-side door handle sometimes seeming "locked". The only other issue we have is a rattle-type vibration coming from somewhere in the area below the radio, or so it seems. Have checked for loose items in the glove compartment and all the cubbyholes, but haven't found anything. Anyone else notice this...if so, what is it? I'm going to ask the service tech on the next service visit.

    Overall, we LOVE our Honda. Researched for months, asked everyone with a Honda, found no one with anything bad to say.
  • bluepearl1bluepearl1 Member Posts: 7
    edited August 2010
    On August 12, I bought a Honda Accord V6 EX-L with Navigation for $28,350 with .9% finance. Had I not taken the .9% financing, then the cash price of the car would have been $27,300. Anyways, the total for me came out to be, $28,350+$399 (Doc)+$1,797 (6.025% tax)+$210 for Utah Licensing. The OTD price was $30,756. Since I got .9% financing, I financed the whole amount and I drove the car home paying nothing up front. My first payment of $524.41 will begin on Sep 11. I got the car in Bali Blue Pearl. And I think that this color is awesome. You can get this color only in the 2010 V6 models and beginning 2011 that color is no longer available.

    I have so far driven 500 miles in this new car and I have no issues. All my doors open with ease (no issue with the drivers side door as has been reported in this forum), the engine is super smooth. The VCM is only felt if I want to accelerate very fast otherwise I can not tell when it engages or disengages. I did not find any issue with the transmission abruptly shifting at the 22 to 25 mile range (again another issue reported in this forum earlier). Also there is no creaking noise that I can notice coming from within or outside of the car. There is of course the well known road noise that you get from any Honda Accord. But I am a past Accord owner and it does not bother me. In fact, that road noise feels good to me as I know on what kind of surface I am driving. Before buying this car I test drove a 2008 BMW 528i (certified car) but the overall feel of the Accord was better (and of course it is a new car). The engine power seemed similar to the BMW. At least I did not see any difference.

    My only regret is that the car does not have memory in the drivers seat, I did not get the rear camera and there is no iPod connectivity. All of these are available as standard accessories in the 2011 Accord in the same trim level. So perhaps I should have waited and examined the 2011 Accord before I made my purchase.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Welcome and enjoy your new ride.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    First, let me say that this is my wife's car and I don't drive it everyday, but I have been experiencing more noticeable surging when driving in very modest hills between 50-60 mph. However, today, I am almost certain that the transmission was not shifting into 5th gear - even on flat freeway pavement at 70+ mph. The engine sound seemed to be higher than normal and the rpms seemed to be more like I was still in 4th gear. The performance was great, but it just didn't feel or sound normal. I took it to the dealer and a technician drove it and checked it for codes. Said there was no problem - everything normal.

    My question: What is the normal engine rpm for a 2010 V6 Sedan with automatic at exactly 70 mph - assuming you are in 5th gear and on flat pavement?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    It should be much closer to 2000 RPM than 3000 RPM.
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Member Posts: 275
    I've had an 08 & currently own a 2010 V6 sedan, both would tach @ 2,400 RPM @ 70MPH.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    The outside driver's door handle is much harder to use than the others on my 2010 Accord EX-L V6 sedan. Sometimes, I think the door is still locked, but I haven't mentioned it to the dealer.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    Thank you. 2400 rpm at 70 mph sounds reasonable. The dealer is still checking mine to see if it acted any different when cold. I'll have an opportunity to check it at 70 mph freeway driving with cruise control on the way home later this evening.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    Car was NOT ready this afternoon. Second technician drove the car extensively and said there was no problem whatsoever with the transmission. The "surging" was attributed to this model's normal "grade logic" that changes rpm or gears as appropriate for terrain. HOWEVER, he did notice the unusual "engine" noise, but diagnosed it as a passenger side rear wheel bearing. Parts in stock, will replace this evening and test again tomorrow AM - mainly to see if the noise went away or, possibly, that the driver's side wheel bearing is also making a noise. Keeping a loaner overnight.
  • bluepearl1bluepearl1 Member Posts: 7
    I drove my car (2010 Accord V6 EX-L w/ Nav) today and took it to the highway just to check the rpm and found out that at 75 mph it stays slightly above 2200 rpm or sometime go close to 2400 rpm. It never goes above 3000 rpm unless you want rapid acceleration. The grade logic explanation does not seem to be very reasonable. Although I did not check for it before, but I live in Utah and I did take my car in the mountaneous region a couple of weeks ago but did not notice any unusual surge from the car.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    I have not seen a new forum made for the 2011 Accord yet.

    I officially saw the new updated 2011 yesterday!! Very sharp! The new revised grill and rear make it look a bit less plain and updated. The wheels are nice too.

    However, the price of this model EX-L 4cyl, NO NAV, it was within $28,000.
    I was like WOW! Seriously? It has no Nav, No V6. Now, it is a really nice, solid car, so does that mean it fully loaded it would be priced at $32,000!!? That is going into the Acura TSX Territory!! I know that the 2011 has a bit more features, but this makes me re-evaluate whether or not I get the Accord next time. I could go to VW and get a fairly loaded model, more of a drivers car, more luxury, or go lease a TSX.

    I know this is all MSRP priced, and it will calm down sooner or later, but even that, its still a bit overpriced. Even though I completely love Honda. I think Honda is getting a bit carried away with their pricing. You simply can't buy a honda for the same amount of money anymore.

    I wonder if that is why they made an SE?
  • zatireszatires Member Posts: 39
    I got 4.5K off discount from MSRP on my EX-L purchase a few months back. And without such a discount I would not have bought the Accord, as it is not worth such a price imo. If there are no discounts, for 28K, it is not worth the price.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    I just was taken back when I saw the price tag, realized that it was $28k and not even fully loaded. An EX-L, but not nearly topped out yet. It is priced a bit too high.
  • kris39kris39 Member Posts: 2
    Is this the best time to buy a 2010 Accord as the 2011 models might be coming in by the end of the month. I am tempted by the EX-L. What would be a good price to pay without feeling ripped off? :) ">
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    Here soon, it will be a great time to get a 2010. Because yes, the 2011 models are priced steep. Which is always the case with any new model. They'll settle down. I don't plan to lease until early next year, so hopefully it'll calm down. Because, I certainly feel that I am not willing to spend that kind of money, when the TSX looks so much better next to it in terms of price and appeal.

    My dealer has one 2011 model, once dealers get a whole truck load of these models, then they will want to move the 2010 out! Not sure of a true price, but you can probably do really well!! Specially when compared to the 2011.

    I used to have an 06 Accord SE and was price about $21k. Now, that kind of money gets you a bit less unfortunately on a new model.
  • suigensuigen Member Posts: 5
    Bought my first brand new Honda 2010 Accord. I feel the steering wheel is a little stiff. Is this common for a new car? Or should i take car back to the dealer ?
    Any suggestions please.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Drive another V6 Accord and compare. Hondas are known for not having loose/light steering; they handle very well and have "weighty" steering unlike a Toyota.
  • suigensuigen Member Posts: 5
  • rcummelinrcummelin Member Posts: 184
    I saw my first 2011 Accord EX-L at the local dealer the other day and was surprised at the price increase.

    But here's the good news: The emergency brake button is chrome again, just like 2008-2009, but not the 2010. At least 2011 buyers will be getting something for all that extra cash! LOL!
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