Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi Engine Failure

1234568

Comments

  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    Quality control with Chrysler when owned by Daimler was pathetic. This same era many of their small engines didn't last beyond 100K and they would throw a rod. The 2.7L v6 is well known for this. The 4.7L is also known for giving up at 100K miles.
    Both of these engines are OHC and you can blame some of on it on lack of maintenance. The timing chain has to be changed at 100K miles. That is very expensive maintenance.
    This is the main advantage to old fashion push rod engines; they are hands down more reliable because they use a very short timing chain. But the 5.7L suffer from the same poor quality control and die frequently.
  • 2talltexan2talltexan Member Posts: 2
    Drove my 2004 hemi durango through the car wash yesterday ... when I got to the heavy rinse cycle, the engine started running rough and the check engine light came on. I gunned it a little to keep it running. When I exited the wash, the engine had smoothed out and I continued on to my destination. About a mile down the road, I heard a warning bell for high temps, I immediately pulled over. The coolant was boiling. I let it cool down and drove over to an auto parts store across the street. I had lost coolant, so I added more. I started the engine, with the temp gauge at norm temp and continued on my way ... a mile down the road or so, the engine temp again soared and I pulled over. Had the truck towed in ... blown head gasket. Engine replacement $5K.
  • sawlogs0709sawlogs0709 Member Posts: 1
    these hemis are junk, we took a trip to fl and to Disney, the engine had a small ticking noise befor we left. I changed oil added lucas and still ticked, I knew what it was and what was about to happen to the hemi from reading all the posts but we drove the Durango anyway. it done well with zero problems, we arrived back home and 2 weeks later it slung a rod!...THANK YOU DODGE!.. FORD FAN FOR LIFE.....NEVER ANOTHER DODGE IN MY DRIVEWAY! :lemon:
  • formerdodgeguyformerdodgeguy Member Posts: 4
    After 87,000 miles this engine experienced catastrophic failure. I was 600 miles away from home and at the mercy of an unreliable Dodge dealership. After one month and two core engine replacements I got home and took the Durango to the dealership I bought it from. These engines have a plastic uniform air intake manifold with a foam insert. Mopar Service Bulletin #S1209000016 clearly states, "The intake manifold construction prohibits complete cleaning of debris from and engine failure, especially valve train and piston debris." If you have one of these generation two Durango's you have a ticking bomb. This engine is unreliable and Chrysler won't own up to it.
  • richhollrichholl Member Posts: 1
    So, if I understand that correctly, even if you replace the engine and install new cowl it will still suck debris into the engine?
  • formerdodgeguyformerdodgeguy Member Posts: 4
    Yes, it takes time, usually warranties expire and and consumer protection in Pennsylvania on this issue is four years, states vary. Once the mileage is 80,000 plus trade it in. Early signs will be engine lights with cylinder code failures.
  • guinnyguinny Member Posts: 1
    Sound all too familiar, finally realized after my car died in a downpour yesterday on a major chicago highway. Luckily I was able to pull to shoulder, than started up again and was able to go the fifteen miles to home with it dying once again at a stop light. I finally figured out this happens when rain is involved. Happened two times prior since I bought it used in Oct 2012 but never on highway. Very scary and car at mechanic now getting checked out. They've had it since 8:00 am and haven't figured out the issue yet.

    Only reason I purchased was to transport dad as he doesn't drive anymore and had to be sure and make it through winter to his house, my rear wheel drive doesn't cut it so went out and bought this. Looks like a BIG mistake and most likely will have to dump for parts or at least tires I just purchased in Dec. Car drove great aside from the few stalls due to the issue, but no way am i going to put my life or anyone elses in danger. Has anyone had any luck in figuring this out , doesn't seem fair that Chysler can get away with indangering so many as i've read hundreds of same issue.
  • andyforrestandyforrest Member Posts: 1
    :mad: My durango has started the ticking noise. Checked and looking at a new intake. Won't go with a stock one. Bought this durango april 16 2012 for my wife. Factory certified 2nd owner had 54,320 when I bought it. Now I see there tail light warranty!
  • evw1959evw1959 Member Posts: 11
    quinny - open up your fuse box on the driver's side right next to where your knee would be. Look/feel around in there and it's very likely that you have moisture in there. Check the carpet in the bottom of the fuse box to see if its wet or damp. The reason that your car may be dieing is that when water gets in the fuse box it short circuits all of the electrical systems. The short may take a long time to develop as the box and its components start to rust out. This happened twice to me before my mechanic figured it out. On my 04 Durango somehow when there was a heavy rain or run thru a car wash, water was coming in thru the closed sunroof. Water is supposed to get in the sunroof even when closed but there are 4 drains up there running down to the front and back of the vehicle. If you pull your headliner above the drivers seat, and especially on the left roof support, you may see moisture or old water stains. That all being said, my mechanic sprayed water from a hose on my roof for an hour and could never see how the water was getting into the fuse box. But we did see some stains in the headliner where water had previously pooled. I finally "fixed" the problem by sealing the sunroof with matching color duct tape. It's not the preferable solution but at $650 per pop to replace the fuse box, I can live with it. Hope that helps you out.
  • lisap48lisap48 Member Posts: 1
    I wondered why everytime it rained or i washed my truck that it would sound and drive bad. I drove my 04 durango on Friday,all day long.That night it rained.I got into it to go the next day it wouldnt crank.my hubby who is a machanic found water on the lifters. the next day,it cranked but drove badly.days after it cleared up and I drove it out of town.What a mistake,the motor blew. NOw I have to get a new motor,thank you Dodge.
  • kamper1kamper1 Member Posts: 1
    How did you get a new motor from Dodge for a 2004 Durango
  • formerdodgeguyformerdodgeguy Member Posts: 4
    These are not new motors. They are remanufactured motors, broken motors are sent to Chrysler they rebuild them and send them to the dealer. I had to go to a dealer to get a motor.
  • jpatinojpatino Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info... I just got a call from the Dealer and I also have a whole in the engine block!!
  • mkosakmkosak Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Hemi and cylinder #3 started reporting a problem.

    While being tested at the service shop the engine blew a hole in the side of the block

    Does anyone know if Chrysler is doing anything about this?
  • angel121angel121 Member Posts: 9
    Sorry but all dodge does is blame the customer for not taking care or their piece of junk. Nothing has been done to date. Mine blew 2 years ago. Cost me over 5k to fix and then sell the pile. The only thing we can do is NEVER purchase their products again EVER! THey have catigorially deined any claim relating to this 10 + year old car with an egine made out of scrap metal. They got away with selling us the garbage product. Not one consumer group has gone to bat either.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    All dealership are in a mandated "Deny all knowledge" mode.
    This issue of spontaneous rod failure is WELL KNOWN in early hemis but if you go to a dealership they will claim they NEVER HEARD of such a thing even when they have likely seen several hemi with big holes in them in their shop.

    So if the truck it itself is paid for an still in nice shape; I would say source a used low mileage hemi (preferable 2005 and later) and have it installed. If you rather not invest a bunch of money in; put it on Craigslist for $3500 or something and unload it.
  • kenkelkenkel Member Posts: 1
    As another victim of the Durango 2004 hemi motor failure I'd like to know what others are doing about getting rid of their vehicle. Is there much of a salvage value? Like many of you we experienced problems in rain or after the car wash but had never heard of this issue. I don't plan on replacing the motor so I guess I need suggestions on what to do next. I do plan on following up with Chrysler and using social media to get the word about this situation out there. I encourage others with Facebook or Twitter to help me start a battle against this giant corporation.
  • mish7777mish7777 Member Posts: 3
    My dealer offered me $3000 as an "as is" trade in towards another Dodge from him. I took a pass..........I will NEVER buy another Dogde . I got $2800 from a junk yard, the book value was between 10-12K, my 04' only had 76, 400 miles on it when it threw its rod and DODGE did NOTHING but charge me more money to have the ingine inspected and get it towed to one of "their" mechanics. My engine was very well taken care of, it's their product that was garbage.
  • formerdodgeguyformerdodgeguy Member Posts: 4
    Last year Chrysler issued a service bulletin #S1209000016 addressing the catastrophic engine failure. If this occurs they admit due to the poor design of the air intake manifold, "...if piston, cylinder bore, valve or valve seat failure occurs the manifold must be replaced..." NOT reused or it will void the warranty on the remanufactured engine core.
    I've just finished a six month battle with a SC dealership, trying to get my credit card company to chargeback the $7,400 repair. They used the old manifold in replacing the 5.7L hemi. I was not successful. The only way is to sue the dealership for negligence. This of course is impossible for a working guy. The only way is to never buy a Chrysler product again. Remember your tax dollars were used to bail this company out.
  • karrietakarrieta Member Posts: 7
    Did anyone file a complaint with the gov? I keep reading the same story over & over & you need to file a complaint! Here is my original post:
    Jan 11, 2013 (12:44 pm)
    My motor just blew. My mechanic said he had never seen anything like it before. It was the #8 rod. If this happened to you, you need to file a complaint at (888)327-4236 safercar.com You will need your vin#.

    I keep reading the same complaint so I'm posting to hopefully get some people calling in to the government. So far they have lodge 32 complaints on this matter. I asked what is the magic number & there is none. When they notice a pattern they will investigate.

    If there are enough complaints the gov will issue a recall & will make them reimburse us.
  • 4aqueen4aqueen Member Posts: 1
    On August 15, 2013 i drove 2004 my Dodge Durango ,5.7 lit Hemi to work parked it all day and when i got in started the engine it cranked over with no problem , no struggle or nothing then it mysteriously cut off, i tried to start it again it would not turn over it was sounding like a dead battery problem, so i asked some one for a jump it still would not start I called my road side assistance it was towed to a shop because of the no crank symptoms it was said that it may be the alternator, but an attempt to do a diagnostic was done to make sure they could not perform a full diagnostic because the engine had seized, this shop does not do major engine repair so i took it to a shop that does ,they did a no crank no start check on it and it was determined that this engine was finished but not only that i was told that they can not fix the car either because of one or the two reasons either it is true this engine has bolts that they can't get off only the dealership can or after researching for another engine for this vehicle they found out just as well as i did , that this beautiful high performance vehicle is actually a piece of garbage emphasized 10 times, I've only had my car 1 year and 8 months, 100,225 miles on and it absolutely showed no signs of any engine problems or any other major problems and out of no where i got a car that I am still paying on that does not run, too much money. something needs to be done. i also have a co-worker who says she has a friend who is going through the same thing with hers
  • jasonujasonu Member Posts: 1
    I have the same- 2003 5.7L hemi, just over 80,000m- reported problem 0300 and 0300. I replaced all electrical and ignition parts- everything relating to cylinder #3. Brought it to a shop- the mechanic "diagnosed" the issue as the #3 injector. Funny, that's the only injector I replaced. They still got paid, of course. The truck just limped home today, just barely. This is the first I've heard of any problems like these. I'm new to this forum, and I see that it is mostly Durangos- are you aware of any fix for this? I hope to avoid blowing anything.

    Thanks - J
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    You hemi engine failure was the typical rod fatigue.
    NOW; I do not know if they have pulled the pan off the engine an examined the rods.
    LIKELY one is bent that caused the engine to seize.
    This is very bad; but it can be WORSE. Because normally the the bent rod breaks and knocks a hole in the side of the block. If you can get this engine in the hands of a competent mechanic; replacement of the rod/piston will likely fix this issue. Last time I checked the rod/piston combo was about $60 each. x8 that is $480. So in this case the hemi is fixable and should be reliable from here on. IF the engine "throws" the rod; kiss the whole thing goodbye.
  • irishfrase54irishfrase54 Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    I have a 2004 durango with the hemi. Drove it around town and everything was fine. I parked it for two weeks while out of town for business. Came back and it would not start. I towed it to my mechanic and the shop was stumped. He asked me if someone had taken it but I had the only keys. Just put in a refurb engine. Core was damaged so that was extra. I took great care of that car and even the shop manager said my car was in great condition. It's sad that dodge won't do anything to help. I am having my attorney get involved to try and recoup some of my money.
  • gigi43gigi43 Member Posts: 1
    We have 2 2005 Dodge Durango suv's. what a pain it is to own. A person, I believe I read on here, showed me how to fix my problem which is the same thing most Dodge Durango owners have. Go out to the truck and turn the water hose on. Put hose on windshield in the middle. Open hood and see where water goes. It runs directly on spark plugs! So, first things first, buy clear silicone and apply to the cowl( it the guard just under the windshield). We applied it to the cowl where it hit the windshield. Then apply to all the lil plastic fasteners they are round and make sure you cover the one that let's water run on spark plugs. Then buy new spark plugs, when you remove the coil note that some are wet. Dry them off as well as the spark plug hole. Do this to all the plugs. It fixed out problems. Design flaw by Dodge. I hope this helps.
  • mrcohjrmrcohjr Member Posts: 1
    i hope this helps.I will cap the 1st letter of a sentence, dont expect puncuation marks etc..My 2000 durango was running like a plug was fouled.I put all new plugs.didnt help.I ended up replacing the coils for each plug, fuel pump, power steering switch, r and l bank o2 sensors, the ones on the catalytic converters.none helped.Checked all grounds.. i replaced the steering switch, cuz i was told to check the switch to see if it had fluid in it. what happens is the switch leaks and fluid passes thru the wires, and shorted out the o2 sensors..Thats crazy..so my bro-n-law unplugs the computer, and all kinds of fluid in it.my durango ran sooo baaad, i could barely pull out of the diveway. So my bro-n-law does research on PC, calls says switch theauto shutoff relay with the wiper relay, cuz they were the same.started it, and it ran almost perfect. It seems all sensors are ran thru it, .try switching it.It may not solve your problem, but it might. I b praying for you..good luck..
  • nikki1985nikki1985 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I am trying to figure what is wrong with my Durango. The issue I am having is that something is killing my battery. I think it is electrical because I have a brand new battery, alternator and the starter has been replaced too. But I noticed that when I turn my car off that the radio would stay on. So I started taking the face off the radio. And at first that solved the issue. But now that doesn't work. So I need help to try and figure it out. I have also noticed that my radio panel stays hot when the car is on. What do I do?
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    As far as I know the radio will stay on and playing for several minutes but should go off as soon as you open the door. If it does that; the radio is fine.

    If something will kill a fully charged battery overnight this has to be a large current drain on the order of seveal amps. A competent technician should be able to track the problem down.
    If there are any aftermarket accessories install (like a car amp or something) I would check that kind of thing first.
    Check for relays (in the relay bank) that are could be stuck in the on position. Monitor the current drain on the battery (very small is normal; keeps the clock going, etc). And pull one relay at a time and see if the current drain disappears. That will give you an what circuit the problem is in.
  • evw1959evw1959 Member Posts: 11
    Pretty much the same thing happened to me. Also, started hearing a "click-click-click" noise when I turned off the engine like an electrical relay was staying open. Turns out that water from rain storms or melting snow was getting into my fuse box which was corroding the contacts and shorting everything out. Check your fuse box which on the interior wall by the driver's left knee. Take off the face plate and see if you can feel any moisture either on the fuse box itself or on the carpeting at the bottom of the box. You have four drains in your sun roof and if water is getting in, that's most likely where it's coming from. the water goes into the channels and then into the drains ever when your sunroof is closed.
  • dunn8dunn8 Member Posts: 1
    Our valve spring broke at 100k in number 8. it took them a week to find it. No code.They said the old jeeps did that a lot but they had never had a Durango do it. your are the first person we have heard that had the same problem
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    How can a rod get bent sitting still? I have a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 Hemi. Well maintained, runs great, no problems. Parked it yesterday and went out the next morning and it wouldn't turn over. The starter bendix kicks into the teeth on the flex plate, but it's like the motor is siezed. I have not tried turning the crank with a wrench back and forth to see if the starter or the timing chain are wedged, but even with the battery fully charged, the starter hits hard and nothing. If there is a bent rod, I'd sure like to know how it got that way without any warnings or anything.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    There is a debate on how this actually happens. But the fact is much of these failures happen or are preceded by a no-start on a cold engine.
    This happened in the cause of our '04 Durango a couple days before it slung a rod.
    Many believe water is getting into the cylinder via a KNOWN defect in the plastic intake.
    Usually you will experience rough running and a cylinder misfire code when it rains or in the car wash etc. The factory plastic cowl is known to dump water directly on top of the engine.
    Normally this wouldn't harm anything, but if the intake is leaking it will suck water directly into a cylinder; it will flash steam in the hot engine and on compression the rod cannot hold up to this kind of cylinder pressure and can damage the rod.
    If your Durango gets rained on and the intake leak is present, water can run directly into the cylinder so the engine hydrolock on startup. The starter motor produces tremendous torque can literally bend a rod. When the engines runs, the rod breaks, kiss it goodbye.
    The weak connecting rods, cracking intake manifolds and leaky cowl are all KNOWN ISSUES with Chrysler and they did nothing to fix them or knowledge responsibility.
    Keep in mind with the 04 Durango was produced Chrysler was owned by Daimler Chrysler.
    Daimler was intent on running Chrysler into the ground and pillaging Chrysler assets to prop up it's own Mercedes brand that was languishing because of poor quality.
    The 5.7L Hemi design is brilliant. A real triumph in power and efficiency. The same can be said for many of the new ".7" design engines of this era. All made a lot of power with small displacement with good fuel economy.
    But cost cutting drove quality down and all these engines suffered. The worst being the 2.7L v6 powering many of the mid size cars. The lower end of the engine isn't designed with enough "beef" to hold up to poor quality gasoline (any gas with ethanol). So at 100K miles these engines are usually done.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    edited October 2013
    The Durango does sit outside and last night there was very heavy rain with localized flooding. To test the hydrolock theory, I could pull the plugs and try turning the motor over. If it rotates, the water would be pumped from the cylinder and indicate the leaking intake as you suggest. If it still fails to rotate, something else is mechanically blocking the engine's rods, valves or pistons. I did check for any codes (ODB) that might indicate low voltage, cam position sensor error or other electrical failures like misfires, etc. and nothing.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    edited October 2013
    Just an update; After pulling all the cowlings and the coil & plug wire tray from the intake manifold, I found a lot of water underneath in amost every pocket, as well as the appearance of a rather large mouse nest. I can easily see how, if that water froze any time over the past 9 years, it could crack the plastic. I was able to remove the front 4 plugs, but the rear 4 will be difficult. I will finish removing them this evening. I tried turning the crank manually with a wrench and was able to turn it backwards, but then when going forwards again, it stopped at the same point. It could still be hydrolock in one of the remaining 4 cylinders or still be a rod, timing chain, valve or something else mechanical at this point. Once all the plugs are removed, I'll know better what I'm dealing with.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    edited October 2013
    Good work; but likely the damage may already be done.

    If there is water in the engine the effect is one of the piston hit a "brick" on the compression stroke. This kind of stress will usually weaken the rod.
    Ours quit 2 days after a no-start morning. It rained that night if I recall.

    If indeed you do have a bent rod (check the valvetrain first just in case) it is possible to fix it.
    The last time I checked a replacement OEM rod/piston was $60 each.
    It is possible to fix this without the expensive of a replacement engine.

    The common sequence of events in these failures looks like this usually.

    Won't start-
    After a while starts and then immediately throws a rod, hole in the block. Engine is scrap
    or
    Won't start-
    After a while starts and seems to run fine. Short time thereafter throws a rod, hole in block. Engine is scrap.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    The truck does have 140K miles on it, so the rods could have weakened over the years, but still have doubts that just the starter could put that much additional stress on them. Regardless, I may just go the full route to keep the block intact. Can the connecting rods be replaced with the engine in the car, simply by lowering the pan?
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    You would have to extract the pistons from the top after removing the heads. I do not think there is enough room to remove the heads while it is still in the car.
    BUT, removing the engine, repairing it and re-installing it is cheaper than removing, replacing, installing.
    Street price on a running used engine is usually $1500-3000.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    No need to remove the pistons through the cylinder tops if all you are removing are the Rods. Connecting Rods can be removed from the crank and from the pistons at the wrist pins. The other issue is, if removal of the heads are required, you'll need a full gasket kit, new timing chains & grears, along with other assorted gaskets and parts. It might be easier (labor costs) to just replace the short block, which may be too much for the value of the truck.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    From what I have seen it is impossible to remove the rod/piston without removing the crank first.
    The lower end is pretty narrow, the crank fits into the journals with little clearance to spare.
    To remove the crank you have to unbolt it from the flex plate and you cannot get to that unless you remove the transmission.
    The piston will have to come out the top if you are to attempt this in vehicle.
  • privatepilot83privatepilot83 Member Posts: 13
    Just an update, I was able to remove the remaining 4 plugs and when I turned the motor over with a wrench, water sprayed from the rear two cylinders on the right bank, so deffinitly hydrolock. I visually inspected the intake and found the two center bolts on the right side (in pockets where water collected) had their tops rusted completely off, allowing the water to come in along their shanks and possibly along the edge between the manifold and the head. I applied gasket seal to all three areas generously and reassembled everything with new parts. She runs great again. BTW, I also took silicone to the wiper tray to prevent water from coming on the manifold in the future. I don't believe the starter has sufficient power to put any undo stress on the connecting rods, so will not be bothering with the bottom end. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
  • drrighteousdrrighteous Member Posts: 49
    Excellent!
    I'm glad you got it going!
  • ihatedodge2ihatedodge2 Member Posts: 1
    I had an AAA Extended service contract after they tried for a couple of weeks to get out of it they paid for the replacement motor from Powertrain Products a rebuilder that addresses all known problems and gives an optional 4 year nofault warranty. The AAA weasels are almost as bad as MOPAR since there was less than a month on the contract when the engine went
  • vancouver2010vancouver2010 Member Posts: 5
    We'll my nightmare with my Durango now continues with Promar Engines. After just 4 months in the truck the engine failed! Promar's warranty is not worth the paper it's printed on. The first words out of them when I called is it's not under warranty.

    My engine was running badly right from Day 1. I took it into several mechanics including my local Dodge dealership several times. Just 4 months after the install I have a massive antifreeze loss with no leaks from the system. My mechanic found a blown head gasket! Promar Engines warranty was a complete joke. Any excuse at all not to cover repairs for their inferior workmanship. My local machine shop looked at the head gasket and said they are using inferior parts!

    BS Reason #1 I was I didn't return the core in time. Complete garbage since they knew I'm in Canada and I had to drive the block over the border to ship as they wouldn't ship the return from Canada. I was in constant contact with them and they knew exactly then the block would ship. Not once did they say that I was late with shipping the block and warranty would not be covered.

    BS Reason #2 was that the block overheated. Complete garbage again since it was a head gasket that failed due to their crappy workmanship and parts. Without any pics of the heat tabs they installed he said they were melted. Even if they were melted it was because of loss of coolant from the blown head gasket.

    I have been in touch with another Durango owner from this message board that has also had problems with a ticking lifter from Promar. These guys are complete scammers. Warranty is non-existent.

    Email me if you want more details about these crooks.
  • talikarnitalikarni Member Posts: 2
    I read through a lot of these posts, and there is one key factor causing almost all of these engine failures: valve springs. Daimler sourced out a lot of items overseas from China to get super cheap sensors, cheap weak plastic cowls and inferior valve springs, which affected mostly 03-04 Ram trucks and 04 Durangos (and some 2005s built in 2004 as they used up the engines with the problematic springs).

    Look at it this way: the spring breaks thus not pushing up the valve. The valve slams into the piston head a few hundred or thousand times not letting it go all the way up, sometimes twisting the piston just a little with each contact. After a few hundred or thousand times, it twists or breaks the piston rod which then slams into the side of the block a few dozen times until it breaks through.

    Those of us that have had these Durangos for a while and are enthusiasts are familiar with this problem, and recommend taking the still running Hemis (03-04 Rams and 04-05 Durangos) to the shop and replace the stock springs AND RETAINERS with some quality springs/retainers (like from COMP cam). Order some online and have a local shop install them (NOT A DEALERSHIP) since many times the parts that the shops/dealerships get are OEM factory or cheap overseas parts, and prone to failure just like the original parts were. Quality brands like COMPcam do not have these weaknesses as they are designed for heavier use, tracks, racecars, drag strips, and so on.
  • mopar_freakmopar_freak Member Posts: 1
    Well I joined the club today. my Durango made it 3 houses down the street then " Boom, Bang, clunk"" I now have a hole bigger than a softball in the side of the block 3rd cylinder back on the right. guess there is no need in crawling to Chrysler for help after reading the posts on here. I am amazed at how thin the block 5 inches above the oil pan. Anybody got a good block ?? hate to get rid of truck because it's still in great shape but I think here in Kentucky, its going to be quite pricey to find a short block.

    Glad I changed my plans for travelling for thanksgiving.
  • twinkie5twinkie5 Member Posts: 1
    I had trouble with my 2005 dodge Durango and I have found that I need to make sure the gas cap is on tight and it has helped with the issue!
  • jmccallisterjmccallister Member Posts: 1
    I changed my plugs out last night and noticed that 3,5,7,6 & 8 were bad rusty. I was wondering where the water was coming from and figured it had to be as described above. I also noticed water in the oil fill cap which is directly under the cowl. The plugs were tricky to remove due to the rust so be careful and work them in and out until broken loose.
    I have had the Durango for 3 years now and have had no trouble at all from it other than all the door and window gaskets are deteriorating. Overall it is one of the best vehicles I have owned.
  • hemisuckhemisuck Member Posts: 1
    2013 dodge Durango 5.7 hemi sputtering...... with only 643 miles.......yes 643....! Chrysler won't do a thing about it......! SAID THATS JUST A HEMI.....! Hahahahaha SHAME ON THEM......! The government should tell them next time you need money dodge......fix the hemi 5.7 first! Or go back into bankruptcy like you should be..... or out of business.....! Run before you buy a dodge! Or I told you so!
  • canmorcanmor Member Posts: 1

    Add my 2004 Durango to the list. We'll maintain, never raced.
    Threw a rod doing less than 25 mph. About 85,000 miles ( aprox. 128000 km). If I known there was an issue maybe could avoided the pain and inconvenience. My Durango 5.2 1999 had double the mileage, no problems.
    Obviously, not my driving or maintenance. The manufacture needs to take ownership of the problem, or risk future clients.

  • talons1077talons1077 Member Posts: 2

    I recently purchased an 04 Durango limited with the 5.7hemi May of 2013, for $8K. It had 113K miles the guy told me he got the car from a dealer friend and it had a noise in the engine so he replaced it with a used engine with 109K miles. I was happy the guy was honest with me and said no problem checked it out it ran and drove perfect with lots of power. He was able to sell me a used car warranty (thank god). We drove it that summer and pulled our pop up which we used an 01' Blazer for in the past. This Durango pulled like a dream no problems. We had a rain storm on the way home on the one camping trip and I remember opening the hood at the gas station just to check the oil. I noticed a steady flow of water running onto the center of the engine, I even showed my wife saying that does not seem right but still we had no problems so I ignored it. Early December my wife went to start it in the morning and it sounded like a jack hammer. I made arrangements with the warranty co and had it towed to my local garage. They said a rod was through the block the warranty paid for a reman long block and we have it back running great I still get the water dripping on the engine and have tried to stop it with weather stripping but it still leaks were the windshield wipers go through. The garage said they seen no signs of water in the engine but I really think it was hydolocked. How else would rod break under no load?

Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles