Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Are you under 40 and think that you might not be able to afford a brand new vehicle when you purchase your next car? If so, a reporter would like to talk to you. Please reach out to [email protected] by 12/16 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

2010 Chevy Equinox Problems

145791047

Comments

  • dmazzonedmazzone Posts: 20
    I brought your ideas to the dealer last week and after them having my car for 2 days they diagnosed the problem as the tensioner. That would make sense as to what you thought could be the problem in that area of the belts. The part has been on order for 7 days now and still waiting. They did say could be 7-10 days. I'm hoping this is definitely the problem. Thanks and I'll keep you posted.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited April 2010
    Yes, the tensioner could be the culprit alright, if it had a faulty bearing or soft spring that doesn't tension properly. I was thinking alignment, but didn't occur that the tensioner could be dud from being so new but it is possible of course. Even probable now. What is a disappointment, is the wait for the part. Perhaps the wait would be shorter after car has been in circulation for a year or so. I have heard of parts being hard to get on very new product. They allocate all parts to the engine plant. Still...seems that they could expedite one out of a box there, and courier/fly it to your dealer. Let them scramble to find the part when that box at the plant is empty and look after an existing customer first i say. Even others who have car on order, usually don't give up their old wheels until the new car arrives.

    Let us know :thumbup:
  • jomac95jomac95 Posts: 6
    I picked mine up on Wednesday and mine has done the same thing twice. It is not related to the headlights as I was parked and turned the headlights off and it made no change. All of a sudden it came back on brighter by itself. Mine is a 2LT 4 cylinder.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,655
    This sounds like a normal thing that happens with DRL's/auto setting on lights. If the sensor for DRL's is put in darkened condition (shady spot, early or late in day, extended period in tunnel or underpass) the sytem will automaticly turn regular headlights on and in addition put dash/radio lights in nightime mode (dim).
  • zone6zone6 Posts: 2
    I have have a 2010 V6, and have two issues, first when slowing down under normal driving conditions the transmission will down shift and slow the vehicle down, instead of coasting as my other automatics do. Has anyone else noticed the same thing?
    The other thing is when starting out using a light throttle when the tac hits about 1500 rpms I get a something that sounds like a low pitched wind noise coming from the engine. as soon as you get to 1700 rmps or give it more throttle the sound stops.
    Anyone noticed anything similar with the V6.
    Gary
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    I don't know about your low pitched wind noise. But for the slowing down while downshifting, it is something you'll have to live with. My complaints about it are well documented in the beginning parts of this thread. I've gotten used to it, and the new tranny calibration did help some. I'd see if you can get an updated tranny calibration, that is your best bet.
  • griswaldgriswald Posts: 33
    I have a Terrain V6 with the same drivetrain and get around the tranny downshifting when coasting by nudging the gear lever forward to neutral - where it glides along really well. Doing this has changed my driving style and I'm now getting much better mileage (and less transmission wear I suspect). This technique is probably best used with no one close behind as following drivers may feel inconvenienced.
  • Picked up our 2010 Equinox last wednesday, small piece of the gasket/seal around the chomed piece with the Chevrolet logo was sticking out, showed my dealer and went back this morning to get it checked, mechanic said all is well, so I took on biusiness card and passed it in between the chormed piece and the body and half of it passed, told me we looked and there is a gasket around the chorme piece but I have my worries, about water accumulating under that piece and then wind up with rust problems down the road or electrical problems, does anyone notioce same on their Equiinox......glad they paid the owed money back, just want to have peace of mind because of the money I shelled out.......
  • zone6zone6 Posts: 2
    When was your unit built? Mine was delivered at years end ? so I don't know if the update was done.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Mine was built in March 2009. I don't know if they have a new tranny cal or not for the V6 engines, but it sounds like they have the same characteristics as the 4 cylinder ones. I would go to your dealer and tell them your issues, then see if they'll hook it up on the computer and see if there is an updated calibration for your vehicle. Good luck.
  • terexterex Posts: 26
    The 2010 Equinox began production on May 25, 2009. Did you mis-type the build date of your vehicle? :confuse:
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    When the engineer from GM came in Sept. to look at our vehicle (the whole tranny cal thing) he looked at the VIN and said it was one of the first ones built, and it was in March. There is a time period with new models where they only build like twenty per day he said, until they "get it down" in the factory. I'm not sure how to find out the exact build date, I was just going off of what the engineer said.
  • booklady85booklady85 Posts: 6
    Am testdriving an Equinox LT2; when it is on smooth pavement, alll is well; but when there are road patches, small potholes the ride is very very bouncy; have driven two of the LT2 model and same problem. Any ideas?

    I did drive a couple LTZ's and didn't notice this;

    Any help would be appreciatd as I like this car alot just don't like feeling like I'm on a bouncing ball.

    Thanks
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    The LTZs have bigger tires, so that might be the reason. Though what I've read suggests bigger tires usually lead to a rougher ride, not smoother. The only other explination is the tire pressure was higher on the 2LT. On the Nox 35 psi is standard, which is a little high to begin with compared to most other vehicles. Maybe your 2LT was a little more than that, and the LTZs were less. :confuse:

    We have a 1LT and love the little bit rougher ride than in the competitors.
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 318
    I think what your experiencing is the way these new crossovers are designed for higher MPG's. They are using stiffer tires and tuning the suspension different along with changing the transmissions to shift in to higher gears sooner.
    My LT1 came with 17" Michelin Latitude Tour tires. They had 37 psi right off the dealers lot. I noticed the stiffer feel right away but accept that as a compromise for getting better mileage. If you want a softer ride I suppose you could lower the psi but you also lower your MPG's and expected tire life.
    In the end if all you want is a cushy ride maybe this isn't the vehicle however you can find some out there a lot worse than the NOX. Try some of the shorter wheelbase crossovers out there, the NOX has the longest in the category.
  • booklady85booklady85 Posts: 6
    thanks for your reply. I was wondering if it was the tires. I believe they are 18"--brand I have no idea. but it was on both the LT2's that I drove; both are v6. I really like the car--just don't like feeling like I'm hitting every bump in the road.

    I know there are worse out there and some that are no better but way more expensive.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited May 2010
    At first I thought you meant bouncy as in the suspension allowing the car to bounce and wallow (literally more body movement up and down as it goes over bumps) But now I am not so sure that is what you meant after reading your mostr recent comment. Higher psi in tires will transmit more a sharp 'thwump' feel and sound as they hit pavement irregularities. Smaller diameter wheels will emphasize this to some degree as smaller diameter fall into the depths of a pothole, while a larger dia tends to 'straddle' it as it goes over it. That is why a hundred years ago all the cars had really large dia wheels.

    But if the car is literally 'bouncing' excessively after going over the bumps on the LT2's, I am inclined to think this is more due to suspension and shock absorber valving that is probably different on the LTZ's if they don't exhibit that bounciness.

    Furthermore, the V6 model may have a slightly heavier front weight bias than the 4 cylinder. Usually 4 cyl models are better balanced and handle better also in vehicles where both engines are offered because the 4 cyl engines are always lighter. The greater the weight difference, the more noticeable the handling differences will be.
  • kzk8brownkzk8brown Posts: 12
    I have had my 2010 equinox, awd 4 cylinder since feb 2010 have driven slightly over 6200 miles. My mileage is unsatisfactory under the sticker estimates. I have averaged 21.8 miles per gallon mixed both highway and local driving. I live in the country so city driving is not so citish. Drove a long highway round trip got 22.00 and it was driven from ny to florida round trip and never got better mileage than the 22.00 I am using the econ mode and did see an increase from my initial 18 mpg to the 21 all local. Was told by the mechanic/dealer that I should see an improvement after 9-10 thousand miles. Has anyone else had this experience? Is this the best mileage I can expect to get? Highway is suppose to be 24-31. The dealer/salesman says they have not heard this complaint, and customers have been getting 26-27 mpg. Hardly what I have gotten... Thank you
  • starfleetstarfleet Posts: 18
    Has anyone had a problem with their remote liftgate button on the overhead console. Most of the time when I push the button it doesn't open. If I open it with the key fog (which works every time) the button overhead will close it. I know it only works in park......I think it's an intermitinent problem....I have a 10 LTZ 4L fully equipped.
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 318
    Sorry to hear of your experience. I've only used 2 tanks of gas in LT1-4cyl so far and averaged 21.8, not was I was expecting. I can't believe what your dealer told you, that you needed 10000 miles before you could expect improvement. That is Ludicrous. If that is the case then there should be a huge asterisk on the sticker warning you that stated mpg is not to be expected the first year of use! (I only drive 10K a year)
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 6,993
    I think GM lied on the 4-cylinder gas mileage, especially since car manufacturers now self-certify the gas mileage on their cars and the EPA only does spot-checks. How could it be physically possible for a Malibu with the same powertrain to get basically the same mileage as a heavier, boxier Equinox?
  • terexterex Posts: 26
    Its the key fob. . .don't hold down the lock mechanism as it can trigger the window open feature, which is intended to cool down your vehicle quickly on hot days.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Starfleet,
    I am from GM Customer Service. Yes, you should be able to close and open/close your lift gate from the overhead console. Because you are experiencing and issue with it I would have it diagnosed. You can email me if you have any further questions. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    I own a 2010 Equinox 4 cyl with about 9,000 miles on it. Here's my experience with gas mileage on a recent freeway trip (economy mode selected; tires inflated to 42 psi hot). Driving at 75 mph on the flat in Nebraska with absolutely no wind (a rare event!), the instantaneous mileage hovered around 32 mpg. The average over a 100 mile section of this kind of driving was about 32 mpg also. With a 15 mph head wind, the mileage plummets to about 25 mpg. Conversely, coming across a flat section of Hwy 20 in Iowa with a tailwind of about 15 mph driving at 70 mph, I got an average of 35.5 mpg over a distance of about 60 miles. My conclusion from all this was that the advertised mpg was reasonably accurate, but that the body form makes head or tail winds more of an issue that with a smaller profile vehicle. I am very satisfied with the fuel economy, on the whole.
  • berriberri Posts: 10,166
    I think wind resistance plays into fuel economy on higher profile vehicles as much, or more than weight. I suspect you find your mileage drops quickly as you speed up as well. I haven't driven an Equinox, but my CRV doesn't really get that much better highway mileage than my bigger van does. A lot of people I talk to with others like RAV4 and Escape all complain about highway mileage not as high as they thought, but are generally pleased with in town mileage where wind doesn't really play into it. I think weight is the bigger driver in city mileage.
  • texana99texana99 Posts: 10
    For what it's worth, my 2010 LTZ has 19" Hankook Optimo tires (235/55R19) and I have the 6 cylinder engine. I have driven on a variety of roads, both smooth and rough, and have not experienced any "bouncing." I keep psi at 35. I was concerned about getting the larger wheel/tire combination, but this seems to be the right combination (and the 19" wheels are really nice looking).
  • gmehelper7gmehelper7 Posts: 1
    Hello Starfleet

    MY201 - The button on the overhead console requires ALL doors to be unlocked in order to operate the power liftgate. First verify all doors are unlocked, sometimes when entering the vehicle via key fob, maybe the unlock button is only pressed once which only unlocks the driver door. If this does not fix your issue please take it in for service.

    I hope this helps.
  • booklady85booklady85 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the information--I may have used the wrong word in describing my concern--it is that the ride is rough on rough roads; I can feel cracks, patches, etc. more than in a sedan. however the dealer tells me this is true. Your psi brings up another question. If the tires are over inflated to improve mileage, that might be part of the problem.
  • starfleetstarfleet Posts: 18
    Thanks for everyone's help. The reason for my (problem) was that I programmed my Nox to only unlock the driver's side door. Now that I know all doors will have to be unlocked (pressing unlock twice) before the lift gate will open using the console control, my issue is solved! :);)
  • kzk8brownkzk8brown Posts: 12
    Going by instantneous mileage is rediculous... If that is what they used to measure Mileage that is "wack1" Everyone computes mileage as how many miles per gallon of gas you put into the car. Otherwise there is no consistancy in comparing one vehicles performance to another.. If I use the instanteous mileage get 99 mpg down hill & 12 MPG up hill. I am suspicious of an automatic calculation, when pen an paper tells me it is only 21 - 22 MPG. of couurs traveling over flat land might get that kind of mileage per gallon , but Do I have to go to Nebraska? LOL..
  • bjones6bjones6 Posts: 28
    Of course instantaneous mileage is not a reliable indicator of average economy, but it is a very helpful indicator of wind resistance and hill climbing situations. Although, on the flat with no wind, it is remarkable how closely the instantaneous average and actual averages correlate. Yes, you do need a Nebraska-like setting to do this kind of comparison. Maybe that makes it meaningless; depends on how you look at it, I guess.
    The average fuel economy computer gives me fairly accurate information compared to manuel calculation methods if I remember to reset the computer and pay attention. I have twice calculated fuel economy at 32 mpg in my 2010 Nox using the miles divided by gallons method, and the number has been within 5% of the car's computer. The driving conditions both times were nearly 100% freeway with little or mixed wind.
  • jlg44jlg44 Posts: 12
    My wife has a 2010 ltz 4 cycl with 3800 miles. She works 2 miles from the house and averages 21.9 miles per gallon. This is all city driving. We took it out of town so when I got on the interstate I re-set the avg and after 40 miles at 65 - 70 mph it was averaging 34.5 mpg.
  • vanman1vanman1 Posts: 1,397
    I think anything even close to 30 highway is amazing for this size of vehicle.
  • kzk8brownkzk8brown Posts: 12
    Concerning my mileage.. took a long trip from NY to South Carolina. First part of the trip driving 55-65 most of the time I got 29 miles per gallon, Next tank load going through alot of North carolina so driving much faster...65-80 got 26 miles per gallon.. city driving in SC got the 22 miles per gallon. My city driving miles per average is pretty consistent at 22. ON the way back... Got almost 27 mpg. 26.6 Must be missing one gas receipt. I know I had to have filled up one more time... Any how. I am a bit more satisfied with 26-29 on long distance than 22-24. Seems doing 55-65 will get the better gas mileage on the long haul.. I keep telling everyone since I was traveling south it was all down hill so the mileage was better and driving North is of course all up hill, thus not as good mileage. One thing I can say.. I was comfortable in the seats for the 12-14 hours...
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    edited June 2010
    We've already got some rust on our 2010 Nox that I noticed while washing it a week or two ago. Taking it in next week to get fixed under warranty. It is on the tailgate by the chrome piece in the middle of the tailgate. The dealer thinks they chipped the paint at the factory putting on the chrome piece, and thus it rusted later.

    We're also getting fixed two small areas that are peeling a bit (no rust because the piece is plastic). The spots are on the bumper piece where it connects with the rear quarter panel by the wheel well. It is doing it on both sides. The dealer thinks the paint wasn't sanded correctly on the dumper before it was put on the vehicle.

    Just some things to look out for...
  • mikeb1028mikeb1028 Posts: 2
    (Didn't see a post yet for the following problem...) INTERMITTENTLY, upon startup (only), there is a strange, usually loud, noise coming from the engine area that lasts between 1 and 2 seconds. It sounds like revving, or clicking. The 1st time I heard it when my wife started the vehicle in the garage, I thought there was a truck with a diesel engine passing by !

    The Dealer can't seem to locate the problem yet, although they HAVE replicated the problem, and are still looking at it. The Tech said he talked to a GM Engineer who said he has seen a similar problem in the Malibu.

    Has anyone else experienced this ? If yes, did you get any resolution ?

    Thanks !
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 318
    Are you talking about a clicking sound other than the continuous clicking the 4 cyl does? I'm told the direct injection requires a high pressure fuel pump that makes the clicking. It never stops however. I can't stand it but if you keep the windows closed you can't hear it driving. Every time I hear it however I can't help but think of an old washing machine chevy I had years ago that needed a valve job. I don't understand how this is considered an acceptable design by GM.
  • mikeb1028mikeb1028 Posts: 2
    No. As I said, the engine noise I am talking about is ONLY at engine start, and ONLY for 1 or 2 seconds. And it only started doing this after 8,000 miles. (Although they did seem to hear it on at least 1 brand new Equinox on the Dealer's lot, also.) Thanks.
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 318
    Ok, therefore, no I haven't heard a 1-2 sec noise on my 4 cyl. at startup. I only have 1000 miles on it so far though. I test drove two others and also a Terrain 4 cyl and didn't hear what your saying. Just the continuous clickity clack.
  • My wife took her 2010 4cyl LTZ into the dealer today for a standard oil change. The remaining oil life indicator said 6%. She also asked the dealer to check on a strange noise the car had started making. The dealer just called and said there was no oil in the car! No oil pressure light...no oil oil level light or guage...nothing to indicate the engine was being ruined! Dealer said there was not an oil sensor on this make/model. Can that be true??? If a car used all the oil between changes wouldn't the exhaust smell or look like oil burning or wouldn't there be oil on my garage floor?...not a drop. Did the dealer even put oil in the car at the last oil change? Also, literally 30 seconds after the dealer gave my wife this great news I got a call from the sales department asking if I was ready to buy my daughter that Cobalt for her b-day!!!! What timing. Arrggg...good grief.
  • back2frontback2front Posts: 42
    Mine does the same thing and is twice as bad if it is started with the AC on. Mine clicks and then sounds like something is trying to get out from under the hood. Mine never does stop clicking, kind of sounds like the Jeep I got rid of because of the rods knocking.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Back2front,
    The 2010 Equinox does have a clicking/ticking noise associated with their 4 cylinders. The noise comes from the injectors and it is normal. However, if you feel that the noise is really loud I would suggest taking it to the dealership. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Mariah,

    Is this knocking associated with fact the 2.4L is direct injection?

    I noticed this on my Nox but it isn't very loud and I've never thought anything of it.

    Thanks.
  • back2frontback2front Posts: 42
    I have an oil change coming up so I will have them look at it...Thanks, still love this car!!
  • I am having this same issue with my equinox, have you been able to find out the problem?
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    I know this reply is long in coming...

    My vehicle stalled while slowing down from coming off the interstate. It gave a few engine codes. It started right back up, and we were on our way. It only did it that one time. Had the actuator replaced a few months ago and all has been good in this regard.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Maxiumpete,

    I have a 1LT with the Vehicle Interface Package and they forgot to put in the USB port (common with early 1LTs with VIF). In the 1LT the USB port isn't standard equipment like with the 2LT, but with the VIF mine should have had it.

    What exactly did you do to get this issue resolved (I'm sorry I've had a hard time following your issue due to the high number of posts in this thread)?

    My dealer offered to install it for free, but the two parts needed total about $400. I don't think I should have to pay this since I only got a $75 credit on the invoice for it not being installed.

    Thanks!
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    edited June 2010
    Has anyone been able to find out if there is a service bulletin for the "sticky steering" issue? I have it occasionally on the hwy. Not too worried about it, but would like it fixed if there is a bulletin (dealer won't be able to replicate it because it is so infrequent).

    Anyone also know if there is a service bulletin for the weak low beams on the headlights? My dealer was unable to find one, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.

    Also, for the first thirty seconds or so after startup the Nox warms up the catalytic converter quickly to lessen pollution (all vehicles do, it is a govt. regulation). During this time the vehicle feels like it hesitates when driving it. There was supposed to be a new software calibration to fix this. Anyone know if it is out yet? And if so, what the calibration number is?

    Thanks.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    No oil?! If there was no oil you or your wife would have surely known it, I'd think. I wonder if someone at the dealer drained it, then another tech saw there was no oil? A year ago after I did an oil change on our Vibe all the oil ran out of the engine through the filter for some reason (bad gasket maybe). After two seconds I knew it had no oil, the noise from the engine was horrible. I can't even describe it. I immediately shut the engine off and put on a new filter and some new oil and all was good.

    Just a FYI for everyone: these new Nox's are obviously very new so there isn't a lot of data out there regarding analysis of used oil from these engines. I have heard, however, the direct injected engines in the Traverse are very hard on oil (the 4 cyl Nox is also DI). Considering this, I'd suggest putting in full synthetic oil to protect your engine and oil changes at least every 6k miles. Often times you can go 10k or more miles on full synthetic oil, but I wouldn't in this engine.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    You're welcome! :) Let me know how everything goes.
    Mariah GM Customer Service
Sign In or Register to comment.