Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I guess I can chalk this one up to bad luck and wait and see if this will happen again
Same problem occurred with my Dad's '97 Taurus sedan, so it was a bad batch of sensors. It can happen with any car, but maybe some manufacturers have better quality control over the production of these sensors - any one of which can fail and degrade your vehicle's performance (if not stop it all together).
That's why I'm not a big fan of all the electronics they're putting in vehicles today. I think they've gone WAY too far already. OK, put the sensors in the engine to make it run more efficiently (if you have to), but what about things like that STUPID electronic touchpad on the liftgate of the Equinox. Now who's the IDIOT designer (or group of designers) who came up with THAT one? Totally unnecessary and doomed to fail. Not to mention that's it's awkward to use! An old-fashioned mechanical latch should've been installed. They last forever with little or no trouble and are easy to replace if they fail. But it MUST'VE been about the money (again)! It must've been less expensive to put the touchpad in (both in terms of part cost and installation time), and if it lasts 5-6 years, that's good enough because most people don't keep their cars longer than that.
The touch pad will cost less no doubt, but is also lighter which they are also trying to keep tabs on. The hatch on a Kia Forte i checked out a month ago, had something similar by the sounds of things. (I have not seen the Nox one) If you pressed it too lightly or slowly, it would unlatch but only part way! You had to be quite deliberate with the press. Plus they are always in a really dirty place. Who wants to have to get their hands or gloves that dirty to have to touch a pad? At least if they don't dry out in time, and are sealed welled, they may resist corrosion longer than a keyed latch.
I say bring back the cable pull, or button operated electric solenoid even if they do add some weight. The trunk lid 'pops' and usually u can find a cleaner place to open it the rest of the way with a finger on the inside edge where it is clean.
Who said I trade cars everytime I have a problem? In fact we have a 1997 E320 that we owned since new and a 2002 Suburban we owned since new. These two cars have been trouble free since we bought them. I mean no out of the ordinary problems, but we kept them up to date with all services.
Bought a new Equinox and a simple TCM switch going out causes undrivability- the car dosen't even have a limp mode to allow you to drive it to safety. Plus the damn rear hatch won't open and I can't get my tools out of the back.
So my friend I am sorry if I might contributedto the country's debt because I am considering a trade even at a loss. I believe as long as I pay my bills on time I am golden.
Joey
Here's another stupid one for ya: Unlike the 2010, with the 2011 model they decided to package the power seat with the camera and remote start in what they called the "Driver Convenience Package". Wonderful! I don't want the power seat due to the height difference between my wife and I. Its an inconvenience, a nuisance, and with all the movement back and forth it could fail in a position where one of us could not drive the vehicle. So because of the IDIOTS at GM, I had to forego the camera and remote start.
The power seat should ALWAYS be a separately-added option. It should NEVER be bundled with other un-related options.
Still don't like the door lock button in the middle of the dash, either. I also can't stand keyfobs on my keyring - especially the MONSTER-SIZED one for the Equinox. WAY TOO BIG! I'm hoping I can get just a standard key for my keyring, but that'll mean using the center door lock button - which is inconvenient when I have to open the back door to take my things out before locking and closing the doors. Should've put the switches on the doors. That's where everyone expects them to be.
BTW, its been 4 days now and the part has not yet come in so my car is stranded at the dealership. :mad:
I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice. If you have any other questions feel free to email me.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Can you please email me with you case number? I would like to look into this for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Anyone have any ideas or advice for the next snow storm?
The camera cost $152.00 & the labor was $140.00 with a 10% discount the bill was a $290.00.
It took the Dealer 30 minutes to replace it.
Does this seem like a fair charge?
This is probably a stupid question but could I make a complaint to someone other than arguing with the Dealership?
If it turns out that your dealer over charged you, you might want to approach them nicely and ask if they made a mistake, then request a credit with the parts or service department.
A co-worker installed his own camera on an '09 Traverse LS he bought used. He said it cost him around $70 (from a local store). So $152 for a GM camera sounds about right (double). $140 for labor sounds kind of high for a 30 minute job, but the shop probably charges a minimum time (looks like maybe 2 hours ??).
You might be able to argue the labor down to one hour, giving you a refund of around $70, but that's probably the best you're going to do.
I just returned from the Dealer & the service manager offered me 2 free oil changes & a tire rotation to make up for the high charge.
I accepted.
I apologize for your experience. How did things go at the dealer? Has your issue been resolved. Please feel free to email me.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Did you ever get a resolution to your oil consumption problem? I am having a similar issue with my 2010 Equinox. It is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks. I am now getting the "runaround" from the service group and the GM customer service group saying that this is "normal".
Thank you.
Although, if the oil consumption continues to rise, you will probably be making an emission wty claim before your time runs out.
My suggestion is to ensure you have the correct dipstick for your engine, so that you can rule out overfilling. Overfilling is also very bad as it puts undue pressure on various engine seals and will cause premature failure. Some though will last the wty period before they seep.
When you check oil, so as per the owner's manual procedure. Level vehicle. best to check in the morning before the engine has been running since the day before. Waiting upwards of 30 min to an hour if the engine was completely warmed up, will also give you a pretty close indicator that enough has drained back into the sump area where the dipstick goes. But confirm the dipstick. Incorrect ones are more common in new vehicles than many realize. Check the part number, jive it with as many sources as you can working your way back right to the engine builder if need be. If the other poster gets back to you, have them check their build date and location also in case that would be a clue.
We have driven it over 25K in 7 months due to long work commutes (90 miles each way, with 90% of it on the interstate highway). We put on the cruise while on the highway.
Our overall MPG are 24.2! I am very disappointed in this performance for our commuter car. Otherwise, it is comfortable and sporty enough, but the reason we purchased it was due to the EPA.
Any suggestions on how to boost this overall MPG??
thanks
You might want to go to a different dealer if this one is giving you problems. Also keep an eye out for your mileage. I know the powertrain warranty is 5/100k, but just in case it is something not covered by that be sure that you are within the 36/36 bumper to bumper.
An oil consumption test is the first steps for the dealer to determine the oil consumption to see if it is what is above what is deemed to be standard oil consumption. Please keep me updated on your progress. If you have any questions please feel free to email me.
Christina
GM Customer Service
In an effort to zero in on a brand's responsibility with a legit wty claim/repair, it often is as simple as comparing your car to the thousands like it out there. Oil consumption "acceptable parameters" are all pretty liberal. i.e. when they say it meets their guidelines, usually those guidelines are excessive oil usage and if ALL the cars like yours out there, all burned THAT amount of oil, then there would be a big uproar and the mfgr would have to address it. A lone voice is way harder to be heard or taken seriously.
Regardless of their stated acceptable oil usage guidelines, if your car is using a far greater notable amount of oil, compared to your neighbour who has the same car and engine drivetrain etc. then they need to address it. Engines come off an assembly line all built with the intention of a consistent build quality. But sometimes a bad part is used (a scored ring, or a brittle piston ring that breaks) and if that happens in your car, then yours will be the one using way more oil than someone elses. What I am trying to say here, is emphasis should be on a relatively new car with few miles on it (under 50000) engines that have received the recommended oil change etc maintenance intervals, the engine should not be burning more than about half a quart between changes. Tops. My 4 cyl CRV with 51000 miles on it uses so little oil it is barely down on the stick between changes. (about 250ml). I expect that to maybe increase to 350 or 400 ml when I get to 100000 miles. BUT! Not necessarily. Many engines still only use about 1/4 quart even at 100k.
Thanks for your feedback on my 2010 Equinox oil burning issue.
The dipstick is the correct version for my vehicle. Also, I have been monitoring the dipstick to see the oil usage. The service group and I agree that my vehicle is consuming about 1 quart per 2900 miles with no external leaks.
The problem I am having now is that they are saying that is normal or within their limits; they are stringing me along. In my opionion, a new engine burning this much oil has a defect. Based on the users manual and the oil life gauge, I would have to put in several quarts of oil between oil changes. That is ridicule for a new engine.
I can understand a factory defect because GM manufactures so many vehicles but the customer service response to my issue has been poor. I figure one more trip to the service department. If they still feel there is no problem, I think my only recourse is to see a lemon law attorney.
I wish the Chevy Customer Service person on here would explain this because I can't find in the owners manual anywhere that it should consume a quart of oil every 1k miles.
Personally, I'd be alarmed if my vehicle used that much.... but, that isn't the dealership's opinion... .it comes straight from Chevy (or Honda, or BMW, etc, etc).
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator