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Comments
Did that rock mess the rim up very badly? Oh, and the picture isn't working for some reason.
Yes, Jim, there is DEFINITELY a gouge in the sidewall. The tires were just too muddy Saturday to see the damage. The rim is only slightly bent, so I think it will not be a problem. I will try to have that tire re-mounted, and we'll see if it will hold pressure. I hope I can at least count on it as a spare.
Did you ever get your spare back or at least hear from Chris?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I came across an ad for a '93 YJ (see following text) and was wondering what questions I should ask, or what you think it may be worth...
originally a 4cyl Jeep...I had that motor pulled and then had a 4.0L HO from a Grand Cherokee Ltd installed...the new motor only has 97,000kms on it and runs like a dream. It has 4:10 gears front and rear and chews through the gumbo without a worry due to the power to weight ratio, along with the 35' Pro Comp Mud Terrain tires (5). This Jeep has a 6" Pro Comp lift, I ordered the ARB front bush bar from Australia and also installed an ARB Snorkel kit... It has a super duty Conn-Ferr roof rack system for all of the camp gear you'd want to take into the bush with you, there is a HI-Lift jack mounted on the rack at all times. It has a MSD ignition system, K&N filters, heavy duty belts, and a top of the line computer harness system to mate the Cherokee wiring up to the YJ components. There are three Pro Comp flood lights on the roof rack system, two facing the sides and one rear. There are two PIAA lights mounted on the ARB bumper and there are two more Procomp flood lights mounted on the lower portion of the windshield. I had custom neoprene 'JEEP" seat covers made. I installed the best extended fender flares money could buy (tested to -45 C). Rock crawler side "nerf" bars and a rock crawler rear bumper with receiver was also installed. The elctrics are powered by a optimax "red" battery charged through a high end high amp alternator....so even running all trail lighting, you never have to worry about electrical drainage!! I installed waterproof Alpine 6x9 side speakers and a marine grade Clarion sub behind the rear seat...you can get these things as wet as you like!!! I have hardly even used the jeep for it's intended purpose, due to the fact that I worked in Africa for 6 months of the year and now have three young kids...it's simply not a family vehicle... I'm sure that I still haven't covered it all here...so please email me with any questions you may have
The following are the ones I've come up with so far:
Axles - original? If so, aren't they inappropriate for the size of the tires on there?
Any form of lockers installed?
Now, it lists 97000 km on the new engine, how many total (as in body, shocks, etc).
What is the word on Pro-Comp (lifts and tires), plus, given the 6" of lift, was the driveshaft slip-yoke modifications done to reduce vibrations (I'm no mechanic, so forgive me if that doesn't sound right)?
Any body damage/rust?
I am not sure if it would work well as a daily driver but I am definitely planning on taking it wheeling... So far I have been waiting on DC to offer some decent financing rates so I could pick up a new Rubi - but this ad caught my attention!
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
When someone says things like "you can get the marine grade speakers and sub as wet as you like", they're either speaking from ignorance or with intent to deceive. Either way I'd be very cautious.
Unless it's priced extremely cheaply, or it's exactly the Jeep you want, I'd run. It's still a ten year old YJ!
Not much in that way yet, but am planning on learning once I acquire a Jeep all my own. Hoping to do maintenance/modifications myself so as to get acquainted with everything. I know what you mean though. Complicating things further is that in this case, given my skills (or lack thereof), there is no warranty to fall back on either...
Thanks.
Andrew
Any suggestions on what to look for in a Car Wash, or should I now budget time to do my own washing?
-Mike
Thanks,
Mike
I used to ONLY wash Thelma Jane by hand, but that was in my days of being a fanatic on car care. Now, I just spray her off at the car wash to get the mud off from wheelin', and sometimes follow that up with a hand washing at home.
I would be very careful about the soft top and the plastic windows, if I were you. Thelma Jane has the hard top only, so I have never had to worry. The reason that I used to avoid spray washes is that the detergent is too harsh and will remove the wax. I don't worry about that any more.
If I had a soft top, no way I would even consider using the drive-thru type car wash.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
All of us who are friends of Gill ought to keep him in mind, remembering how good he has been to us, providing us with all the services of itsajeep without charging us a dime. I sure wish him the best and hope he can replace that income somehow.
Anyway, I tansferred the pic I posted this morning to my personal webspace at earthlink, so I'm going to post a link to it here. Hope it works.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay49/PA180065.JPG
Well, we'll see if that works.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
I didn't know I could directly link like that from earthlink! I was just trying to post a link, and I finally discovered how to get it right about the time your post showed up. Yes, it is case sensitive!
But, like I said, I didn't know I could actually make the pic show up, like I was doing when the pics were hosted on Gill's site.
YOU DA MAN!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
"...the heavy-duty manual transmission uses slightly angled and curved helical-type gears for quiet, reliable engagement". As this was about the opposite of my 2003's operation, one can assume DC has recognized and fixed the problem for 2004.
By the way, my 2004 X is proving to be a very nice vehicle and has attained 20.5 mpg on the first tank. Mostly two lane 55 mph driving.
I'm going to hold off on the black TJ. Just doesn't feel right - the guy selling is a coworker. He bought it from somebody else. I think I'm going to hold off on a TJ until my daughter leaves for college next summer.
As for my trip, we had a Wrangler X with a soft top. Had it down a LOT, but you know how it can be in Hawaii - rain and sun pretty much all the time. I have a few of the 240+ pics I took on my Webshots directory.
http://community.webshots.com/user/skimblz_
Look for the Hawaii links and you'll see our rental baby. I am thinking I need a Wrangler for all my scuba gear (once I get certified). We did some snuba diving while we were there (essentially scuba with the air tank floating on a raft on the surface and limited to about 20 feet depth). Those reefs and sea turtles were INCREDIBLE!
-Paul
I don't think Pro comp makes a 6" lift. It must be a combination of a shackle or body lift with a suspension lift.
The axles are probably holding up ok if the Jeep is not taken off road much. If you lock them up and then take them out in the mud you have up in Canada with a lot of tire spin, I am sure you will have problems.
I would find out if he had the engine installed or did it himself.
It really depends on the person as if it would work as a daily driver. I have seen people that run 37s on their daily driver.
My speakers in my YJ were rained on all the time. One time I had the radio going as it was raining on them with water on them. They never did quit on me. I guess they were waterproof or resistant speakers. They were already installed when I bought the Jeep.
Tom,
I am still topless and doorless. I did drive home with a sweatshirt and wool hat on last night though.
Paul,
Thanks for sharing those pics. Looks like I need to make a trip there someday.
I think that it's probably best to wait and do the mods myself once I get a Jeep. Like Mac said, that way at least I'll know what's been done and how... Ah well, the pics of if looked pretty cool though!
Andrew
Now if I could just find a well-paying job there...
-Paul
Yes and no as for the componets being water resistant. The speakers I mentioned in my YJ were aftermarket. The console seems to keep water out without a problem. On my TJ I usually have my bikini top on and doors if it is going to rain. My soundbar on my TJ has been rained on a lot and I have not had any problems so far.
If I were you, I wouldn't be too concerned. You have your warranty to protect you, so just drive that Jeep until you are convinced there really is a problem. My guess is that there isn't really a problem.
Could it be just normal driveline slop getting a little bit harmonic?
Mac? Your take on this?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Sounds like your X is working out pretty good. These models can definitely eke out some relatively decent mileage numbers. I've seen around 23-24 mpg with mine, before I put 33's on. The 3.07 gears are good for low RPM cruising and good gas mileage with the stock tires. I can still get 20-21 mpg under best conditions, but the 33's did help knock down the mileage. Although, most of the time I'm in the 14-16 mpg range while out 4 wheelin'.
If you are thinking of upgrading tires, I wouldn't suggest any bigger than 30" - 31" tires because of that gearing. My 5th gear is not even usable any more. One of these days I'll get the gearing changed.
-Pete
As Tom said, have the dealer check it out if it continues to bother you. If they say "They all do that!", ask to drive a comparable model so you can see for yourself.
I'm rather leery of getting electronics wet (dive computers aside), but it's reassuring to hear that the Jeep equipment is capable of getting sprayed and surviving to play another day.
Andrew
-Mike
When you have rotating parts, you can get harmonics coming into effect. You have a driveshaft, U-joints, gears, and bearings that all have some "slop" in them. In certain conditions, this slop can lead to a rythymic oscillation. I guess things tighten up, release, and tighten up again.
Not a good answer, but maybe that'll help ya.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The difference is due, for the most part, to the wind drag. I THINK the drag coefficient goes up with the square of the speed, or something like that. I know it is much more than just directly proportional to speed.
Remember how poor the aerodynamics are on a Jeep... square front end, windshield almost vertical, then a "chopped off" rear end (straight up and down). Heck, Jeep areodynamics are not POOR, they are NON-EXISTENT.
Any vehicle will get better mileage at lower speeds, but this is even truer for a Jeep.
I have read that 80% of the engine's power on the average vehicle is used to overcome wind drag at highway speeds.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The aerodynamics are bad on all Wranglers, even worse when you lift one. Between my gearing issue and being lifted 4", my top speed isn't much better than 75mph. But that's ok for me, as this Wrangler gets the privilege of spending most of it's miles in a Nat'l Forest, off pavement.
-Pete
;--)
Actually, the real point is that until you know that you have an accurate speedo/odometer, and unless you are measuring with the tank filled to the neck to the next tank filled to the neck, you have no real cause for celebration or despair.
:--)
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks.
Steve
Before my Noble Black Steed developed the dash gauge problems, I was surprised how accurate the odometer was with the OEM Goodyear tires. I rarely had problems navigating by the AAA SoCal county maps. I've changed to Dueller AT tires (same 30" size) and have only once tried to navigate, using a different guide book. It wasn't as accurate, but that could have been the book rather than my odometer. I've been sticking to familiar roads or ones where I don't have much navigational challenge since as soon as I go over a bump I'm "blind."
The standard rear axle is the Dana 35, and you want to stay away from that. They are fine if you KNOW you will never do more than very mild offroading, will never want to install a locker, and/or will not want to go to larger tires. But, why limit your future choices by having a weaker rear axle than you could have gotten?
Unless you are talking about the Rubicon, TJ's have Dana 30s up front, and Dana 35s in back. You can order the Dana 44 with the Sport or the Sahara trim level, but NOT with the SE or the X models. You said you were getting a Sport, so by all means, get the Dana 44.
I think you are confusing the differential gear ratio with the type of axle. There's nothing wrong with 3.73 gearing. It's the Dana 35 that you need to stay away from. If you get the five speed tranny with the 30" tire package, you will be getting 3.73 gearing. You will NOT automatically get the Dana 44, unless you get the AAS package that I mentioned. I THINK you can get the Dana 44 separately too, if you don't get the AAS package, but that's the way to go for all that you get for the money.
I think ABS is not available with the Dana 44, but I would much rather have the 44 than have ABS.
Trac loc is an option that you CAN get with the Dana 44. It is a limited slip, not a true locker. It is a clutch type limited slip that will eventually get weak, but some people like it. There are certainly better after market limited slips that could be installed.
I believe you can get disc brakes all the way around and still get the dana 44. If you CAN, then I would go for it. The brakes are pretty weak on the TJs, so discs all around would be nice.
Just be careful, Steve, cause the vast majority of salesmen don't know how to option out a TJ! They don't know what goes with what or what excludes what. Make sure YOU know what you are getting, even if the salesmen aren't much help. I bought an 01 Sport in December of 2000 (order was placed in November), and I haven't tried to keep up to date with the option packages or what excludes what since the 01 model year. I DO know that the AAS package is still available, and I STRONGLY recommend that one.
Welcome, and good luck in your Jeep shopping! Keep us posted on how it's going. Ask all the questions ya want to. Read as many of the posts in here as ya can, cause lots of info is available. We are family here, and we are always happy to have new family members.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. I might have mis-spoken above when I said 30" tires don't necessarily get you the Dana 44. Maybe it does. I KNOW that the AAS package gets the Dana 44, and maybe that's the only way to get the 30" tires (the AAS package). These options are confusing, and that's where a salesman ought to be able to help you, but, unfortunately, that is usually not the case.
And if I were going to be spending most of my time driving the freeways, especially in stop and go traffic, I'd probably want the anti-lock brakes. I don't have them on either of my vehicles, and I have locked up the brakes on the Tacoma once when I was cut off in the carpool lane once. The back end sliding out did give me a scare, so I think I'd like to add them to my next commuter car I buy.
I have the trac-loc rear end and have not been real impressed with it. The one time I could have used it was when we got 30" of snow in one night. I got high centered, so the trac-loc couldn't do anything - as soon as I dug the packed snow out from under the frame, I (relatively) easily backed up into the driveway and waited for them to plow the roads!
However, the D35 is not a weak axle. The D35 gets a lot of bad press from the "bigger is better" crowd, a lot of it coming from those that don't have a D35, the rest of it from those to whom the first paragraph applies (especially those with poor control of their right foot).
The D44 only became available on Wranglers in this country from '97 on as a heavy duty option. Prior to that the D35 was the standard rear axle for years. Wranglers never developed a reputation for weak rear axles in the past.
Disc brakes on the rear are nice to have because it's less work to change pads than shoes, and because they're easier to clean than drums if you've been playing in the mud. However, they do not improve the overall braking performance. Most of the braking effort is provided by the front brakes, with the rears being regulated to give only a small percentage of the total.
The Trac Lok works well enough, but being a mild limited slip it can be improved upon if you see yourself doing serious off roading.
Having a D35 enables you to option ABS, which I believe to be an important safety feature (it saved my butt twice!). If most of your driving will be on road I believe the D35/ABS combo to be the most appropriate option. ABS gives you the ability to steer while emergency braking.
My off roading doesn't happen often enough, but when it does I'd classify it between moderate and moderately severe (if it gets more difficult than that I use the winch), and my D35 is holding up fine.
As you can see, Tom and I have different views on this subject. Hopefully, seeing both sides will help you to make a decision........ and I hope Tom won't take any of this personally.
:--)
Naw, Mac, you know me better than that. Besides, we sort of agree anyway. I said if Steve was only gonna do mild offroading, not planning on a locker, or not planning on big tires, then the 35 would be fine.
I just don't see the value of ABS being greater than the value of getting a stonger axle. That's just personal preference, I guess.
Getting the Dana 44 keeps options open for the future is all. I didn't even plan on taking Thelma Jane offroad at all when I ordered her. But, I thought, "why not get the beefier axle, since it is available?"
In my case, it turned out to be a very good decision. I now have 31" tires (which in themselves would not be too much for a Dana 35, but I want to go bigger some day), a locker, and I wheel every weekend.
I do some stuff that would be more than just moderate wheelin', but probably not stuff that would be considered extreme. I do some climbs that involve the tires spinning and grabbing in loose rocks, and I am sure glad that I have the 44 back there when I am doing those climbs. I have wheeled with guys that have the 35 that wouldn't even do those climbs for fear of braking an axle shaft.
It seems to me there would be only two reasons NOT to get the Dana 44: the initial cost, and the unavailability of ABS. It's up to you, Steve, if the extra money is worth it and if the lack of ABS is a big thing or not.
No one says you have to go the route that I did. For ME, it was the right decision to get the Dana 44 and forego ABS. For YOU, the ABS may be worth giving up the Dana 44.
Mac, you are a great asset to this board, and I respect your opinions. You have always provided very accurate and very useful info for all of us. So, I will never be offended when we don't see something the same way. Lots of stuff is just a matter of personal choice, so we can't expect to always agree on those things.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I changed Thelma Jane's brake pads while ago. The factory pads had plenty of life left in them, but I heard that Friction Performance metallic pads would improve my braking a lot. We'll see, but in just test driving up and down the little road that I live on, I sure didn't notice any improvement.
Mac, question for ya... is it necessary to bleed the brakes when you just change the pads on the front disc brakes? I was under the impression that it isn't. The petal is no softer than it was before I changed the pads.
How come the fluid level goes up in the reservoir so much when you push the piston back in with a a C-clamp to install the new pads? I knew it would do that, cause I read in the FSM that you should siphon some out with a syringe or something. I didn't do that, but I took the cap off of the reservoir and put some rags around the sides of it to absorb what ran over.
When Thelma Jane was brand new, she had new pads, and the level in the reservoir was just right. I understand that as the brakes wear, the fluid level goes down, since, in effect, you are increasing the volume of the system, because the piston has to travel farther to put enough pressure on the pads. But, when I go back to brand new pads, why doesn't the fluid go back to the original level that it was when Thelma Jane was new? I think I only added fluid once, and what came out today appeared to be a lot more than what I put in that one time that I added fluid. Does the stuff expand with age? Does moisture or something get in there and increase the volume of the brake fluid?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I have a 2001 Wrangler, 4.0 and auto tranny. In colder weather, and when the transmission is cold, it does not downshift or downshifts after being stopped for awhile or when taking off from a stop. The dealer is scratching his head, and I have found no TSB on it. It sometimes shifts very hard when moving into reverse or drive as well, but I dont know if that is related or normal.
Once the transmission is warm, it seems to shift fine (I could nitpick about it hunting for gears sometimes, but that is probably normal). I suspect that over time, the transmission will fail to downshift completely, and would like to be able to give the dealer some idea where to look for trouble. I report it everytime I take it in for service so at least I have it on record in case it goes out after warranty, but would rather get something definitive done before then.
It is a little unsafe, because sometimes after a complete stop, it will then downshift and without sufficient braking power, it lunges forward, not to mention that with only 3 forward gears, it is noticably annoying.
Any ideas?
No, you don't need to bleed the brakes when fitting new shoes or pads, as you're not breaking into the hydraulic system. However, it's a good idea to change the fluid annually (though few do) as a preventative maintenance. It only costs about $5 in fluid!
I've fitted the Performance Friction Pads, and like you have noticed no difference in braking performance. Either the factory pads are very good, or the P/F pads aren't all they're cracked up to be. I suspect the latter, and that the 'seat of the pants' benefits claimed by others are an illusory placebo effect (rather like K&N filter claims!).
Also, thanks for confirming that I should not have to bleed the brakes.
As always, you da man!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Where do you go to drain the fluid? Do you have to go to each wheel and use the bleeders? Do you purge the old fluid out with the new fluid? I mean, do ya open the bleeds and pump the brakes, adding new fluid to the reservoir as the level drops???
Thanks.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Your transmission, the 32RH, is the end of a long line of well developed and reliable autoboxes. The penultimate version was the TorqueFlite TF999, which in its current evolution acquired a lockup torque converter. Its only downside is having no overdrive. Other than that it's a strong, efficient and almost 100% reliable transmission.
The most likely cause of your symptoms will be a problem with the oil pump/oil pressure, the governor, or the valve body. This assumes that the fluid and filter good, and that the bands are in correct adjustment.
I suggest you try to find a dealer with a correctly qualified transmission tech.
Is that the way to get the fluid changed? Looks like you would have to do it that way to get all of the old fluid out of the lines.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Got TAZZ'S hard top back on. I have a friend that owns a detail shop. He is gonna give TAZZ a good bath & detail. Make him look like a shiny new PENNY.
I have a LONG work weekend ahead of me.
I hope you guys have a GOOD'UN.
Rolll TIDE!
BamaTazz