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Chevrolet Tracker Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Hi,
    I have a 2001 4 door tracker with the 2.0L Engine (127 hp), automatic transmission, 2 wheel drive. I have high milage on it, over 207,000 miles!
    It has been a Very Dependable vehicle, except for the AC compressor going out twice.
    Monday, the timing chain broke all of a sudden.
    I have been told by a local mechanic that they are a bear to find parts for; the parts are very expensive and he is very reluctant to work on it.
    He said that the engine is gone, since the timing chain broke, it will have bent all the valves. Is this true?
    Is it cheaper to replace the engine, or overhaul it?
    With my milage this high, I would like to overhaul the engine and go another 200,000 miles!
    I'm told it's too expensive to buy parts for and i can't seem to find an engine replacement, new or used.
    I would appreciate anyone's suggestions, recommendations on what course of action I should take? (I am happy with it and would like to continue driving it.)
    Any sources on engines, rebuilt, or otherwise?
    I am in the Houston, Texas area.
    Thanks,
    Sam Nicholson

    SNichol
  • woody72woody72 Member Posts: 73
    Sorry to read about your predicament. I don't have any answers but do have a question. Did you have any warning signs leading to the failure of your timing chain? Especially any new noise getting louder over time? I also have a '01 with only 105K miles and would much rather replace the chain before it breaks obviously if possible when warning signs show up. Thanks.
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Yes, It got noisier over time, but it just something you get used to and ignore.
    When it actually broke, I head a much louder rattling/clanking sound from the engine. i first thought to was noise coming from the radio until I turned it down. I drove about 5 minutes, or about 1 mile more and turned into the drive way at work and stopped. When I give it gas to go it stopped running. It must have broke in that instance when I gave it gas to speed up. It stopped dead and when I cranked it, it acted like it lost most of it's compression (not a good sign either!)
    A mechanic friend of mine said it was an "interference" type engine and that the valves were struck by the pistons, bending every valve stem.
    I don't know if this is true, but it acted like the valves are stuck open.
    I think my manual reccomended the timing chain to be replaced at 100,000 miles. If you can afford it, I'd say you'd be miles ahead by getting it done now.
    My Tracker has been very dependable and seemed to just keep on going, & going, & going, until this happened.
    I saw (heard) the warning signs awhile back, just ignored them.

    Anyone know of any inexpensive sources of rebuilt, or low mileage used engines that I might check out?
    I found one source for $4429.)0 w/free shipping, anyone got any better than this?
    (I'm looking for a "C" Engine, 4 cyl., 127 Hp.,to mount on a auto Trans. w/overdrive.)
    Also, I'm looking for a Better replacement AC Compressor than the one that is supplied for it, not Heavy Duty enough to hold up!)
    Thanks,
    Sam
  • squirteesquirtee Member Posts: 15
    I recently purchased a '01 Tracker from a private owner that sure didn't seem to have any issues on the test drive; but after having it home a week, we discovered a "thug" noise when almost coming to a complete stop. My husband has replaced the rotors, pads and calipers, and rotated the tires. A mechanic friend said the cv joint or the cv axle. Before we go into anymore expense, can I get some input on this from anyone?? I am pretty disgusted with my purchase at this point! Oh yeah, and there is also a ehaust vibration/hum when accelerating uphill- very loud... anyonw know what THAT is??? I would REALLY like to LIKE my new investment, but its not looking good so far!!!!
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    is your tracker the v6 or the 2.0 4 banger?
  • squirteesquirtee Member Posts: 15
    It is a 2.0 that seems to run fine(KNOCK ON WOOD..)I took it to the mechanic's today (good guys) and they "shaved" the rotors and a few other minor things to the brakes- and *poof* the problem was solved. Now I only want the front end aligned/new tires and I will be a happy camper.(at least that what my husband is hoping for!!) I just got a set of shop manuals for it--a bit of light reading for the LUCKY GUY!!!
  • travis37travis37 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 2-Door tracker with the soft top and want to convert to the HARD TOP. Dealer wants millions for it and the aftermarket RALLY TOP is a bit more then i want to spend. Anyone know where i can get a 2nd hand one? Looked on E-Bay and no dice. If anyone has one im interested! Need just rear part BUT would buy front section also if price was right.

    Thanks everyone! Travis
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    i searched for years for a hardtop that wouldnt break the bank for my 1999 tracker 2-door. I never foundone. I now have a 2004 4-door tracker Zr-2. The softtop thing got old pretty quick, espeically when someone can unzip and break in your ride.. (already happened)

    chris
  • acarriganacarrigan Member Posts: 4
    Have any members towed behind a motorhome with 4 wheels down?
    If so, what aux braking system did you use?
    What tow bar set-up did you use.
    Did you plug in wired rear lights, or tag lights?
    Any info is appreciated.
    Thanks in advance. :shades:
  • cfaurecfaure Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a Chevy Tracker 2000, 2.0L, automatic. I had to change the engine and found a 1999. It was changed and now it won't start. My mechanich checked everything and he can't find the problem. It could be a security problem? He checked the sensors and they seem ok. Electricity won't go to the engine. Please help!
  • hudhwkhudhwk Member Posts: 1
    Hi!

    I have a Chevrolet Tracker 1999 and a couple of months ago I started to feel a vibration while I have it in Direct, when it is on Parking or Neutral, everything is ok, only at Direct is when is felt. Also the RPMs decrease a lot at Parking and Neutral, at those they are at about 300 RPMs, while in Direct the remain at 500 RPMs...

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance and have an excellent day!!!
  • tijuanatijuana Member Posts: 1
    I tow a 2003 four door, four wheel drive, four sylinder tracker, all wheels down. I use a Brake Buddy system and roadmaster tow bar system. I wired from the motorhome to the rear lights using large diodes to ensure I didn't put current where it shouldn't go. I have no problems and if it were for the rearview camera, I wouldn't know the car was there. The Tracker is really a cheap Suzuki and that car is promoted as a tow vehicle. I just completed a long caravan in Mexico and of the 8 or 10 rigs towing, two were Trackers and one was a Suzuki. Read and head the Owner's Manual and you will be fine. All the recognized tow bar brands are good. I bought mine based on price and the fact it was largely aluminum. I bought the Brake Buddy on reputation.
  • seckseck Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 4X4 Geo Tracker w/ 1.6 vin #6. 83K miles I have a “knock” or “click” in the top end. I was sure that it was in the valve train but after two days of adjusting, looking and listening with the valve cover on and off I can not even locate to source of the knock. Pulled the plug wires one at a time too check wrist pin, still knocks. Compression check was good, no skip, runs great, good mileage. I’m “Stumped”! Any one got any ideas?
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    You might want to check the timing chains. (A little work, pulling trhe radiator and the front cover, ... you may want to inquire on the exact procedure from an expert before doing it.)

    Mine was worn and was hitting the side of the case, making a knocking sound at idle/low speeds. (I couldn't ever figure out where it was coming from until after it broke!)

    There are two chains, a lower, long one goes from the crank shaft to the idler gear, just bleow the cams. Another chain goes around the cam gears and around the idler gear/tensioner.

    On mine(2001), the lower chain was worn, making the noise, but the top chain broke and wiped out the cam gears/tensioner with it.

    I think the manual suggests you change out the chains at the 100,000 mile maintenace.

    (My 2001 lasted to 207,000 miles, but bent all the valves, broke the gears, tensioner and the top chain!
    I just had a used, low miles engine, out of a wrecking yard, installed. So far, so good!)

    Hope this helps,
    Sam (snichol)
  • seckseck Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding Sam. I can understand what you are saying about the chain "slapping", I had a Toyota with two chains and did that. However, the engine in my Tracker has a belt. If you hear of anything else I'm sure in the listening mode.
  • indy70indy70 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have the same problem with my Tracker, My dealer replace the IAC and nothig change. The original RPM was 800 but now are around 300 and the advance at start the march is very very low, also the gas consumption is low but also the speed up is poor.

    Do you receive any sugestion?
  • 48trucker48trucker Member Posts: 1
    Chris, My daughter n law just purchased a '99 tracker and the A/C compressor was locked up. We purchased another compressor and recharged the system. It was working great. In between errands she noticed that the unit was no longer cooling. We found that athe compressor was running all the time and freezing up the evaporator. Any ideas on the switch or the relay?
  • fakechevyfakechevy Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks.

    I have a 2000 Tracker 4 door manual trans with the 2.0.

    The car is a lot of fun, and has just turned 81,000 miles.

    My problem started about 4 months ago. It seems to leak oil from where the engine and trans mate up. I pulled the trans and replaced the rear main seal. The old one did not look damaged at all, but the interior of the bellhousing was wet with oil, so I replaced every seal there, like the crank angle sensor, the trans seal and I resealed an oil passage plug.

    Well, it still leaks oil. I was told that since when I open the oil fill cap with the car running, I feel some wind from the engine, I must have excessive blow by and that is causing the leak. However, I check compression and it was to spec and changed then PCV valve.

    I am ready to give up on it. Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • jschirlejschirle Member Posts: 1
    Hey all..

    I have a 2001 Tracker w/ about 60K miles.

    My problem is with the power windows -- specifically, the fuse keeps blowing, and I keep having to replace it.

    I took it to the dealer the 1st time, they checked everything, said it was all OK, just needed a new fuse. They said it had probably blown if, for example, 2 people had tried to roll different windows at the same time (which would have been a possibility at the time they stopped working).

    2nd time I was alone in the car, but had just turned the AC on -- I thought that was perhaps the culprit.

    3rd time I shut the AC off, and made certain I wasn't doing anything else -- ran the window down, and the fuse blew and I couldn't get it back up w/o changing the fuse (I now keep spares in the car).

    Any idea why this is happening and what I can do to keep from putting a new $3 fuse into my car several times a day?

    Thanks!

    John
  • wme1221wme1221 Member Posts: 1
    I have 57K miles on the 2.0 4-banger. I never heard of one not requiring it, but the manual doesn't say so--not even dead solid certain I have a timing belt! It does call for replacement of an "engine accessory drive belt" at 120K. Is that the same thing? That sounds like lots of miles--I plan to give the car to my daughter when she gets her license in about a year; want to do what's necessary, but not what isn't.
  • sam85sam85 Member Posts: 1
    Hey had the same problem bump the fuse to a 30amp...should fix it ......
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Just talking from my experience ...
    The "engine accessory drive belt" is the External belt on the engine that drives the A/C compressor, alternator and the the power steering/brake pumps.
    It should be checked for cracks/wear and changed if it's not in good shape. (Can leave you stranded out on the road if it breaks!)
    The timing belt I talked about is inside the engine (internal)and runs from the crankshaft up to drive the camshafts and thus synchronizes the timing.
    These are actually chains, like a bicycle chain, only much heaverier duty. There is two chains, the lower one from the crank to the cam gears; then one that connects the cam gears to the other chain's gear.
    On my 2001 2.0 L engine, it broke at 207,000 miles.
    But, don't let it go until it breaks!
    It bent all the valves in the engine when it broke because it was out of sync when the pistons came up to close. There is no room in the cylinder to clear the valves at top dead center.
    I found a low miles used engine in a junk yard and am back on the road again (213,000 + and climbing!)

    On the A/C... my compressor broke and locked up. (Ran low on freon/oil without any warning. Without oil, it breaks!)
    I replaced the compressor. It ran for awhile, then the expansion valve stopped working.

    Long story short.. after a compressor locks up, it puts contaminants throughout the system. If it isn't flushed out thoroughly, it will continue to break down.
    I found out the hard way, mine is still broken ... can't afford to replace the compressor again at $750 a shot!

    On the electric window problem... where are the fuses located for the windows?
    I have the right rear window not working and I'm not sure where to look for the fuses?

    Hope this is of some help.
    Regards,
    Sam
    (Nick-SNichol)
  • wattage16wattage16 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    Service Engine Soon light has been on a week now. Autozone got a PCM code of P0430. They say it points to "catalyt efficiency low - bank #2"

    They wanted to sell me 2 oxygen sensors, but I'm not sure about that. TWO QUESTIONS:

    1. Has anyone dealt with this situation?
    2. Can you visually examine the O2 sensor for damage, or is it all internal, and if so, where are they located?

    Thanks!

    -Keith
  • woody72woody72 Member Posts: 73
    Just found out I need to replace the left lower ball joint which is integral with the lower control arm. I also need both inner tie rods. It sounds fairly involved to replace. I think I will leave it to my front end mechanic. Control arm thru Chevy $450, thru gmpartsdirect.com $325. Anyone have any experience dealing with these problems on a '01 2.0L?
  • tripstertripster Member Posts: 10
    1998 Tracker,I have a oil leak that looks to be from the front of the oil pan, I replaced the gasket and it did not fix it, I then pulled the timing cover to check the front crank seal and it looks good and dry. Any sugestions?
  • tripstertripster Member Posts: 10
    I replaced my oil pan gasket thinking it was leaking in the front around the crank sensor, It did not fix it. Then I pulled the front timing cover thinking it may be the Crank shaft seal and it looks nice and dry. Does anyone have any sugestions where this oil can be comming from?
    I would think it would be east to find.
  • rosie01rosie01 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    Does anyone know why the air bag light would come on in my 2000 tracker??
    Thanks
  • griergrier Member Posts: 7
    The manual says that a special tool is needed for this. Also says that tool can be bought at parts store.

    I have called parts stores and even dealer. They know of no tool for this. What is involved in adjusting the 16 valve heads??

    I haven't gotten to it yet but will soon. Havent found anything here either.

    email any info to [email protected]

    thanks james
  • bigevil976bigevil976 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem I bought a new inside door handle on ebay for $9.99 and $8.00 shipping it fit perfectly. Hope this helps.
  • bigevil976bigevil976 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to change the spark plugs on a 2000 Tracker with a 2.0 4 cylinder? It looks as if I have to remove the electrical part on top of each plug in the valve cover.... I think these are coils! I'm afraid I may damage these trying to remove them to get to the plugs. Any help would be appreciated!
  • tripstertripster Member Posts: 10
    I have a 98 Tracker with 5 speed (cluster panel has Tech) and I need the clear cover for a dash cluster. Can anyone help, and point me to where I might find one?
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    you need a 8mm socket to remove the bolt that holds each coil to the spark plug. Unplug the wiring harness from the coil pack. Do one plug at a time that way you cant get the firing order messed up.. Its very easy, i did it on my 99 tracker twice. I have yet to do a sparkplug change on my 04 V-6 tracker. That should be expensive for me. If i was you i would install Good sparkplug. Either from bosch or NGK. I feel one of the best is NGK as they come OEM on many metric cars and motorcycles..

    chris
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    Does anyone know of a website where i can purchase O.E.M. chevy tracker interior plastic parts. I have to broken door moldings. one drivers rear and one passenger front. It is the plastic that runs along the bottom of the inside of the door.(grey in color) They both have holes in them. the stealership wants $100 for the both of them!!
  • erscoloerscolo Member Posts: 11
    I use http://www.gmparts-direct.com/.

    They are fairly pricy (i.e. $324 a piece for rear seat headrests) but they are genuine OEM Chevrolet parts.

    Roger.
  • tripstertripster Member Posts: 10
    Where can I buy the left and right dash side vents for my 1998 Tracker? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  • 04tracker04tracker Member Posts: 1
    After moving the 4WD handle forward to 4HI, the 4WD light blinks but won't stay solid and the system doesn't engage. How can it not engage? Isn't the 4x4 system mechanically controlled by the lever? My Tracker is 2004 with 17,000. How do I fix it?
  • scotterscotter Member Posts: 14
    Your half correct. The 4 wheel drive is mechanically engaged with the lever, but that only engages the front drive shaft in the transfer case. The front differential is pneumatically engaged by what is nothing more than a small air compressor, which is mounted on the rear of the front bumper frame, passenger side. Your “air pump” is defective, and is not engaging the front differential, thus the reason for the blinking light.

    In actuality it is a complex little air pump, with a pressure sensor/regulator, a check valve, a bypass valve, and a blow off valve, all controlled by a 5 cent printed circuit board, which is the most likely reason the unit failed. I have had to replace mine ( same symptoms as yours, blinking light) and I have 2 friends with a Tracker and Vitara who had to replace theirs, again same symptom as you.

    The Chevy dealer price was a little over $400, and the Suzuki dealer was $200. As with all Tracker dealer only parts, its much less expensive to go to the Suzuki dealer.
  • luibodeluibode Member Posts: 1
    Keith,

    I'm about to go through my 2nd alternator replacement on my 2004 Tracker that's got a total of <21K miles on it.

    Did you ever get to resolve your issue? Was there any wisdom you gained?

    Luis
  • otet443otet443 Member Posts: 2
    my 2003 tracker 4 wheel drive will not engage. The floor shift works fine but the light on the dash will not light up and the front axle will not engage. Is there a sensor or fuse of somekind I need to look for?
  • otet443otet443 Member Posts: 2
    About the 4 wheel drive not engaging, the small air compressor starts running for about 10 secs after shifting into 4 wheel drive, but light still doesn't come on the dash.
  • cherokeebumcherokeebum Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 tracker, locking hubs and the 4 wheel drive will not engage. I was told by my mechanic the ball inside the right front hub is sticking. Is there a special way todeal with this or lube. Can I just use silicon?
  • cherokeebumcherokeebum Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 1.9 liter 5 speed with locking hubs. The hubs will not lock but the gear shift engages and the 4x4 still does not work. A mechanic told me the ball inside the hub was stcking. Is there a special lube or can I use silicon?
  • billiardsbilliards Member Posts: 1
    My friend has a 1998 Ford F-150 and he has trouble with his alternator. He has installed a new alternator and a new battery. The truck will start but will die in a few minutes. His daytime running lights are on and then they go out.
  • mmackmmack Member Posts: 1
    I just bought this for my teenage daughter and live in the great northeast. Last night she slid off the road and bumped a guard rail. Not much damage but I need to engage the 4 wheel drive and am unsure how to do this. I have manual hubs on the front wheels that are now locked and the car is in 2h right now. According to the owners manual, the lugs shouldn't be locked in 2h or it "could damage your front driveshart parts". Also, I do not have a transfer case shift lever (the ball is missing that shows how to put it in 4h or 4L. Can someone tell me step by step how to engage it into 4 wheel drive and then when there is not snow on the ground, how to put it back to 2h. I appreciate any advice I can get before we get more snow tomorrow night. Thanks.
  • usafretengrusafretengr Member Posts: 4
    As long as it's in 2H, you can leave the hubs locked with no problem, and no damage. If the hubs are locked: As the front wheels turn, they will turn the front axle, which turns the front differential, which turns the front drive shaft. But, to put power to the front wheels you need to shift from 2H to 4H to connect the engine to the driveshaft.

    If it's in 2H (most rearward position), just push the transfer case lever towards the front of the vehicle one notch - that's 4H. To get to 4L, you move it from 4H to the left (through Neutral) then push forward again. You can shift it from 2H to 4H and back, if you are moving. You need to stop and put the gearshift in neutral to shift to 4L. Questions? email me at [email protected]
  • usafretengrusafretengr Member Posts: 4
    The hubs on my 1998 Tracker were making noise, so I had the OEM replaced with Warn Premium hubs. They were $100 each at Advance Auto. Very good manual hubs!
  • usafretengrusafretengr Member Posts: 4
    I have experienced the same as far as high priced parts from the Chevy dealer. My mechanic will find aftermarket parts, and has even bought a shift spring at the junk yard for me - saving about $350.
  • usafretengrusafretengr Member Posts: 4
    Your vehicle has a timing chain - not a belt.
  • jwp5025jwp5025 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 tracker the check engin light come on every 100 mile say egr dig. egr is good .any tips
  • cdl2cdl2 Member Posts: 15
    Just bought my 2000 Tracker, 4dr, 4x4, auto, 78K miles. I've started my fluid changes, trans filter & fluid. Engine oil, synthetic, 10w-30. Got 80w-90 synthetic for the differentials, not changed yet. Looking for bigger tires, the ones on it now look original, 205 75r-15, & shot.. Two things I've read here are timing chain & crossmember. What else should I look for? Thanks
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