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Took to parts store for load testing --Battery:OK, ALT:OK, -- took to trusted mechanic for diagnosis....
Mechanic tells me: When you start the truck, all "modules" come to life. When you shut truck down, all "modules" have a rest period before going into hybernation. Mechanic says that one (or more) of my modules is NOT hybernating, and since they require a 12 volt power source this is my battery drain. OBD-II diagnostics revealed a GMLAN code -- something about HIGH SPEED BUS CIRCUIT??
I have read multiple posts concerning this issue we are all having. Here is a compilation of fixes that other consumers have managed to squeeze out of dealers:
1) Service Update #07007B where the BCM (Body Control Module) needs to be replaced;
2) Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06162 which is a software update to the Body Control Module (BCM);
3) HIGH SPEED BUS BAR overheats which simulates a dead battery (this info came from a bulletin dated April 2009, but I dont remember were i found it posted)
4) Someone posted that Service Update #07007 is actually a RECALL pertaining to certain VIN#'s. I attempted to verify, but site that was linked to this information is no longer up (go Figure, right??)
HERE IS THE MOST RECENT BULLETIN I HAVE FOUND......
5) Bulletin #09-08-50-017B - Dated Feb 11, 2010
Its the rear seat heater. It does NOT to be replaced, just reprogrammed using an SPS System w/ latest software update. Applies to Escalade, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL manufactured prior to November 30, 2009. ALL affected vehicles equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6.
GM has to know what the issue is here... I just want to fix the problem, NOT sell the truck. If anyone has additional info, or has been able to resolve the issue -- PLEASE post a response !!!!!!! Feel free to email me and I will forward the long version of everything I have.
Mike D
South Alabama
Took to parts store for load testing --Battery:OK, ALT:OK, -- took to trusted mechanic for diagnosis....
Mechanic tells me: When you start the truck, all "modules" come to life. When you shut truck down, all "modules" have a rest period before going into hybernation. Mechanic says that one (or more) of my modules is NOT hybernating, and since they require a 12 volt power source this is my battery drain. OBD-II diagnostics revealed a GMLAN code -- something about HIGH SPEED BUS CIRCUIT??
I have read multiple posts concerning this issue we are all having. Here is a compilation of fixes that other consumers have managed to squeeze out of dealers:
1) Service Update #07007B where the BCM (Body Control Module) needs to be replaced;
2) Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06162 which is a software update to the Body Control Module (BCM);
3) HIGH SPEED BUS BAR overheats which simulates a dead battery (this info came from a bulletin dated April 2009, but I dont remember were i found it posted)
4) Someone posted that Service Update #07007 is actually a RECALL pertaining to certain VIN#'s. I attempted to verify, but site that was linked to this information is no longer up (go Figure, right??)
HERE IS THE MOST RECENT BULLETIN I HAVE FOUND......
5) Bulletin #09-08-50-017B - Dated Feb 11, 2010
Its the rear seat heater. It does NOT to be replaced, just reprogrammed using an SPS System w/ latest software update. Applies to Escalade, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL manufactured prior to November 30, 2009. ALL affected vehicles equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6.
GM has to know what the issue is here... I just want to fix the problem, NOT sell the truck. If anyone has additional info, or has been able to resolve the issue -- PLEASE post a response !!!!!!! Feel free to email me and I will forward the long version of everything I have.
Mike D
South Alabama
It's important to note that I have no aftermarket products installed on this vehicle. Also, when I go out to my vehicle, the doors do unlock for me. Then when I go to turn the vehicle on it just clicks. At that point nothing works, doors won't lock/unlock, power lift gate wont open etc.
I will mention that there are a couple of other strange things that have happened that i will have to do part two to this post. coming up
I will mention that there are a couple of other strange things that have happened since I've had this vehicle the battery wasnt affected. First off when I first got the vehicle my remote stopped unlocking the doors from outside the car, but strange enough when you were inside the vehicle you could lock and unlock the doors. I forget how they fixed that at this time, but it wasnt a remote problem I do remember that. Then the tire sensors kept coming on, and the dealer replaced them. Then (stranger yet), there were a few times that I started the vehicle and while backing up the back-up camera wouldnt kick in. There were a couple other times that the entire radio entertainment system (I have Nav as well as DVD player/CD player/backup camera. factory installed) didnt work from the time I got in my car until I parked. Then upon getting back in my car it was fine. The last strange thing, is a door lock and unlock issue. My husband left me in the vehicle for a quick minute and locked the vehicle from the outside. When he came back his hands were full and he wanted me to unlock the doors. I pressed the unlock button on the passenger door side and the doors wouldn't unlock, so I leaned across the console and pressed unlock from the drivers side, again nothing. My husband couldn't unlock the door with the remote either so ended up manually unlocking it with the key. This also happened on a couple other occasions as well. Hopefully this strike a chord with someone.
So back to the main problem, I went to dealer today about the battery problem and he said that there's an update to the system that was should fix any battery problems. This was on a bulletin from 10/16/09 #PIT4782D. One of the causes it fixes is: humm or buzz noise from rear of vehicle and/or poss dead battery. This is PI #06-06-03-011B. I said what if thats not the problem though? He said that the fix is for all 16 problems on the page. I didn't see a fix though, it just talks about recording the static voltage of the battery by using a DVOM at the battery post before charging or diagnosing. Then perform parasitic load test as listed in SI. Explains what to do when using a fluke 87-5 meter. And tests how to test the meter first to make sure its working. Then says to perform and record the results for all PI's and belletins that apply to the vehicle in template following list before calling the Technical Assistance Center. Then tells what to do if the vehicle is equipped with Articulating Running Boards. Then at the end says "Vehicles that don't have the delay have older software that may cause the module not to fully go to sleep and may result in battery draw. I dont see any fix described just diagnostics, but the advisor said that this fix would fix everything on that list. I'm not sure if the actual fix is in a separate bulliton for their eyes only? Anyway he wants me to pay $150.00 and MAYBE this will fix it. He says that to be completely sure they'd have to do a complete diagnostic that I'd have to pay for of course. I need to talk to GM regarding having to pay for any of this. I brought me vehicle in when it was under warranty so as far as i'm concerned they need to take care of it since the fix they performed wasn't the answer. I'm hoping that GM will handle the matter in a professional way and provide customer service that is acceptable. I work at a dealership myself and know how things should work, so we'll see if they live up to the way it should go. I should also mention that I had my work do a Parasidic draw test last year, and I was told that there was a high draw coming out of front outlets, so just don't leave things plugged in there. I never leave anything charging in the outlets when the vehicles off, so that shouldn't be why my vehicle dies. Other than that they said nothing else came up. I'm not real familiar with how this is done, but I'm not sure if they hit on everything that could possible create a draw, or just the obvious areas. They did it for free since I work there.
Well I'll see what happens, if anyone has any ideas from what I've written please let me know.
First time, nearly got stranded in the desert of Utah with mystery no start problem; forced to stop in Tucumcari, NM on the way back to Dallas, or risk being stranded on the highway. Warning lights flashing, door locks popping up and down, ignition glitches; while running I40 at night.
Tucumcari GM mechanic "discovered" positive terminal wasn't properly torqued. I assumed my bad since I had replace battery myself several months earlier. Back home, one week later, problem came back. I started playing with positive cable at the terminal; found that if I twisted on the cable, contact would change, and auto would "come back on". I mean from completely dead to completely alive. Well I showed this to my local dealer, and suggested a defective positive cable. Hard to believe, but copper cable into a lead alloy terminal can have a poor contact resulting in voltage drop. Enough to fool the electronic sensor into "dead" behavior.
Paid about $300 to replace the cable ... the problem went away for about 9 months. Then the problem came back. Replaced the cable again (same symptoms) under parts warrenty at about 80,000, and THEN AGAIN AFTER 12 MORE MONTHS AT 100,000 miles. Don't know if I really had warranty coming, but the local dealer (small town) really wanted to make it right. Did any of this help? No. Toward the end, replaced the battery, and still had intermittant shut downs; where only solution was to fritz with the positive cable. An undependable vehicle is almost worse than no vehicle. Stranded at home is one thing; getting stranded on the road or in a desert will get you hurt or killed.
Final note, I nor the local GM mechanics ever this figured out. But I think that it is likely that there is poor design/manufacturing on the positive cable for the '07; and the voltage sensor is too sensitive, going into shutdown on minor voltage drops. Some GM engineer is probably totally aware, but not about to announce it to the world. My new 2012 Burb has a very different looking positive terminal, with secondary contacts on the battery. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.
I'm sorry that the electrical concern you had been having with your Tahoe was unable to be resolved; I hope that your new Suburban is a different story! If we can ever answer any questions or look into anything for you, please be sure to get in touch with us at socialmedia@gm.com
All the best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
I've taken it to the dealership and they said the 07033 service bulletin (BCM Flash) has already been done and they then re-flashed the rear heated seat module. They also did a test on the battery and said it was fine, had almost all of its original cranking amps and only had a 0.1 amp draw when off.
I went out to the vehicle today to do a test and just turned the radio on and sat in the car for 15 minutes and the voltage gauge eventually dropped to just above 9. I went to start it and it was dead, lights and radio worked but it wouldn't start. Just before I tried this, the Stability Track light came on and it said the system was off. I turned the key, no start and the the radio reset to 12:00 and the cd changer went nuts. I've researched this to death on the issue and no one can seem to give me a clear answer. Thanks for any help anyone can provide. I'm going to try a new battery tomorrow but don't have high hopes.
Another strange thing I noticed was that when I bought the vehicle 2 months ago, I saw the engine hours were reset to 0. I didn't think this was possible and the dealership things it was from a cluster replacement. Thanks for any help.
Your vehicle does have a Voltmeter that you can use to see your battery's charge status. When your engine is not running, but the ignition is in RUN, this gauge shows your battery’s state of charge in DC volts.
Hope this is helpful in some way! Have you seen any warning lights come on?
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I'm sorry to hear that it seems to be getting worse. I am unable to do much troubleshooting, but I hope that you're able to get some great feedback from the members of the community. If you decide to work with a GM dealership to get this resolved, please be sure to let us know. We can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com
Sarah, GM Customer Service
For the record, I had experienced a bad defective battery (Bosch brand from Pep Boys) , replaced it with the exact same model..... unfortunately the same results... battery completely dead overnight. Removed that 2nd Bosch and replaced it with an AC/Delco brand.... never had the problem again.. it's been 2 years now !!
1st battery lasted about 6 years. 2nd battery (Bosch brand from Pep Boys Auto Store) lasted about 1-1/2 yrs. 3rd battery (Bosch brand from Pep Boys) went dead about 3 days. (I have a battery charger at my house where I was recharging it... which would last about 3 day max) Finally took to Chevy dealer to diagnose. ($90) They couldn't find the problem, said they were sorry but all seems to be working fine. They charged the battery overnight and sent me on my merry way. Went to a local auto repair shop, they kept the vehicle overnight, called me the next morning, said I had a defective battery. They replaced the Bosch brand with an AC DELCO. Problem SOLVED !!!!!! It's been 2 years now an no more dead batteries!
Final analysis: For some reason the local Pep Boys Auto Store sold me not 1, but 2 bad defective batteries. I'm not sure, but perhaps that store is being supplied with batteries from a questionable source, probably at higher discount rates for more profit margin!! I will never buy a battery from that store ever again. Because, maybe it's not only the Bosch brands, but others as well !! In this day and age, I don't trust anyone anymore, even if a product is brand new with a shiny new label...... (might be manufactured overseas somewhere !! You never know !!
checked battery VDC was at 12.35. removed negative terminal and placed DMM inline on amp setting between neg. wire and battery terminal. meter showed about 4 Amps!! However after about 30 sec or so, it dropped to 1.5A then down to about 30 ma, which is acceptable. But, when you touch the car like open the door for example it spikes back to 4A for a min. or so then slowly drops back to 30 ma withing about 2 min. Even with the dome lights off, it draws 4A every time you do anything. So from this it seemed there was no parasitic draw and all the modules were going to sleep correctly. I tried to open the motorized lift gate but my meter only goes to 10A and it spiked the meter at 16A and would not even try to open the gate which means it pulls quite a bit of current. So, I hooked the battery back up and walked away. 2 weeks later another jump start.
Time to play some more...VDC still showing 12.35 with vehicle off. while running its 13.9 so alt is charging. Still not showing any drain per previous test performed again. The vehicle has a 10 min timer on the headlamps, and most times it has gone dead, the wife has mentioned that she did sit at the park for 10 min with radio on, or kids got in and out a few times. So, battery at 12.65V, headlights left on and went inside for 15 min. came back and the lights were off. battery now showing 11.6V and it would not turn over. A good battery should not go dead in 10 min of headlamps. Ran to sears and replaced the 650CCA les Schwab battery that had been tested good by 3 different shops at this point with an 850 Die Hard Platinum. Went home and slapped it in. VDC now reading 12.65V, turned on headlights and went in for a beer. came out 15 min later, headlights off, VDC reading 12.65V and it cranked over no problem. I did not start it, just cranked over quickly to see. again turned on lights and went for beer #2. 15 min later, reading 12.65VDC and again cranked no problem. one more test of 10 min of lights and beer #3. So after 30 min of head lights the battery had dropped 0.0V and it would still turn over no problem. For my 4th attempt I really stuck it to it. I turned on the headlights, opened all doors and left dome lights on, plugged in the IPOD to the power port and played music through the car, and opened and closed the lift gate 15 times. waited for the 10 min timer to hit and shut down the lights. measured battery at 12.64VDC and fired up the rig no problem. Case closed.
Very frustrating problem and even though the battery tested good 3 times by 3 different places, it was the culprit. This is a very power hungry vehicle and since the new battery in October 2012, we have not had a single issue. I came back now to post this because of how may people I saw on the forums with the same problem, and never really found anyone that actually posted a real fix in the end. I'm sure that some people do have a drain for whatever reason, but if you can us a DMM and check for that and you don't have one, it's probably the battery. I saw plenty of people that had replaced the battery but moslty with the same brand. I know everyone has their likes and dis-likes of certain brands and that's fine. Seeing this thing draw 4 Amps every time you touch it is a huge draw. I personally would highly recommend higher CCA battery like the 850 I put in and I personally really like Die Hard and have never had an issue with one.
As I was sitting in my Tahoe with the radio on the sun began to go down and I realized as it got darker that all my dashboard lights are on. Gauges, Climate control etc. even though they were not running. Why are the dash lights on when I’m in accessories? So now I have to remember to set the dimmer on minimum to keep my battery from dying.