Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, XL Electrical Problems

13

Comments

  • roadturnroadturn Member Posts: 1
    My 96 GMC Suburban (Vortex 5.7L) recently began shutting down on me in traffic. Driving along fine, say 40mph and suddenly the engine will die and the radio stop playing... after a few seconds, it starts running again. Or, it will stall completely, but will restart right away.

    Thinking it odd that the radio shut down when the engine did, I popped the radio out. Several trips today in the rig and it hasn't repeated the problem.

    How can the radio cause the truck to act like that?
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning canron,

    Sorry to hear that about the troubles you're having with your instrument pane. If you would like for us to check into this further by setting up a Service Request (or looking into warranty/recall information), please send an email to socialmedia@gm.com with the following information: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • triplelfarmtriplelfarm Member Posts: 1
    Over the past few months, I have been having slight electrical issues with my 2007 Yukon. The driver's side mirror quit working all of the time, the driver's seat sometimes will not move. Recently the lights started flickering (no bad bulbs). Yesterday, the battery voltage meter dipped low so I took it to have the battery and alternator tested. The battery and alternator passed the tests, the mechanic suggested I take to dealer to have electrical system tested. Today the stabilitrack warning came on and received messages to service the stabilitrack and traction control. Wanted to know if anyone else has had similar issues and/or recommendations beyond simply taking to dealership to troubleshoot which I know will be expensive.
  • rajichrajich Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I have a 2007 GMC Denali with the same symptoms. The power suddenly dies. This is a reoccurring issue for the past 3 years. I noticed the negative battery cable had bad contact so I took a steel brush and scuffed up the cable where it meets the ground connection. That seemed to fix the issues for 6 months, but it came back again. This time AAA came out and said it a common problem with the positive (not negative this time) cable so they propped a stick where the cables connects to the battery and that temporarily fixed the issue, but once again i loss complete power. I'm at the dealership now, but since the car is making contact now I'm curious what they will say. I was able to start it up by removing the positive cable and wiggled it around and reattached it to the battery. This sounds likes a no brainer that the cables have a bad contact somewhere, but I've tried removing and wiggling the cables around in the past and still was not able to get power back. I'll let you know what the dealer says. I also hear this strange ticking sound in the cab when I have power sometimes not sure if its related, but it's a strange clicking noise.

    Update from the dealer. They said they have seen my reported issue dozens of times and crosion in the negative cable was the culprit. I will take the gamble and have them replace it and let you know if the issue returns. Per the dealer the clicking noise in the cab is a result of low voltage and related.
  • americanmade5americanmade5 Member Posts: 2
    My 08 Denali has electrical gremlins. Randomly, the entire electrical system will shut down while the vehicle is parked. First indication of a problem is the remote key fob will not unlock the doors. No dome lights, no dash lights, no clicking of the starter solenoid...nothing. Then, when it feels like it...it repairs itself. It seems to help to remove the battery cable and then reattach it. That does not immediately bring it back to life however, but usually just before the tow truck arrives. I have a new battery which never tests dead or low, clean terminals, and good connections to ground. Any ideas? Also, but unrelated (I believe), both front electric door locks quit working. My son drives a 2009 Escalade and says both of his left side units have failed as well. In reading blogs and forums, there seems to be an epidemic of door lock actuator failures on this family of product. I went to the Chevy dealer and he told me to not believe the gripping on the internet. I am a died-in-the-wool Made-in-the-USA fan but am wondering if I am not stupid to be so.
  • rajichrajich Member Posts: 3
    Yup exact same issue that I've been having with my GMC. This obviously some sort of electrical flaw and GM must retain some stats from their local dealership of the quantity of people having this exact same issue. My local GM dealership mechanic stated he's seen the issue on at least a dozen vehicles himself and most of the time changing the negative battery cable fixes it. The problem is they could not guarantee this would fix the problem and went as far as stating it's gamble I have should consider taking. In other words their confidence level that this would fix the problem fell really quickly. If I had the time I would suggest changing the cable yourself and save the $260 the dealership charged me. I will post back if the negative battery cable fixed my problem. I wonder if anyone experienced the same and still have the issue despite changing their negative cable. :confuse: :mad:
  • 68gtxman68gtxman Member Posts: 5
    I've had my 2003 Denali for 4.5 years now and I've changed the alternator twice and battery three times. Advanced Auto says that these alternators are failing too often - even the new ones. My ghost non-starting problem hasn't shown for about a year, but I've never changed the battery cables or even cleaned them to get the car started. I simply had to wait anywhere from between one day to a week. I've even tried jumping the starter solenoid on the starter with a heavy wire, but it wouldn't do anything. I personally believe that the computer has a ghost problem in it. BTW, I am a professional mechanical engineer and a classic automobile restorer.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    How did everything shape out with the dealership on Saturday, rajich?
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    americanmade,

    if you would like for us to follow up on your visit with your dealership, or look into the situation with your son's Escalade, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rajichrajich Member Posts: 3
    Hi Sarah,

    The dealership was not able to replicate the issue. However, they recommended changing the negative battery cable which I did. The dealership said they were familiar with this issue and the suggested repair usually fixes it, but not all the time. Since my Denali loses complete power every 3-5 months or so I'll have to report back. I will keep my finger crossed they fixed the issue. However, the larger question is why is this happening to so many GMC owners? Its smells like a manufacturer defect to me.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    rajich,
    Hopefully the battery cable replacement will take care of you for longer than 3-5 months! We'll keep an eye out for a post.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • abbottyukonxlabbottyukonxl Member Posts: 1
    On a long road trip, at night, with heaters going due to being around 0 degrees F, the lighted buttons on the steering wheel and the dash became very warm to the touch, and then the sound from the stereo just stopped working. :cry: We have 4 kids, and chaos ensued because there was no music and we had 2 hours left to drive.

    I turned on cool air running through the defrost, thinking that it must have just overheated (possibly a blocked vent), but even a couple days later sitting at below-freezing temperatures have not helped.

    The stereo turns on, the disc changer still works, the displays work just fine, but I still get no sound through the speakers.

    Is this a fuse issue, or something more serious?
  • fvoglfvogl Member Posts: 1
    2 days ago I purchased a 2008 yukon denali with 55k miles on it. When I drove it off the lot everything seemed to of been fine. However lastnight my check engine light came on. They way it drove didnt seem to change, my first thought was to call the dealership where I purchased it and make note of it that it was on record that I'd had it for only 24hrs before the first issue occured, I was told they'll check with the service dept on Monday and get back with me to see if they can get it in to get looked over. From lastnight to this morning when I left for work, I couldnt get the remote start to start the vehicle. Had to go out and manually start it, thought oh well no big deal. As I leave my driveway I notice all of my gauges on the dash are acting weird. RPM gauge stuck at 1000rpm's, speedometer not working at all, temp gauge not working, the only two gauges that seemed to of been working were the oil pressure gauges and the voltage meter. So as I get to work, I decided to shut it off wait a minute and start it back up drove it around the parking lot and lone behold if all the gauges didnt start working again and the check engine light went off. WTH??? This vehicle has already shown me its got a mind of its own. Any suggestions or advise would be great. I sure hope when i get this back into the dealership they dont think I'm going to put this under warranty work and pay a deductable, when this all started 24hrs after signing papers on the vehicle.. I need to check into the lemon laws for my state cause I wont be getting screwed on this..
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    fvogl,
    If the dealership you're working with is one of our GM dealerships, we're available to work with you through the process of getting this checked into. Please don't hesitate to contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a brief summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • tammie35tammie35 Member Posts: 1
    can you let me know if the problem was resolved. my denali is doing the same thing. none of my gauges are working. this past summer i noticed the gauges would totally quit every now and then. now they do not work at all
    :sick:
    thanks
    tammie
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Let us know if you decide to work with a dealership to get this checked into, Tammie. We can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • mrjohnbmrjohnb Member Posts: 9
    2000 GMC Yukon XL 4x4 / 5.3

    Hello,
    I am trying to replace my front right door lock actuator. I have bought 2 online with the exact same part number as the one I pulled from the door

    valeo
    16637778

    the one installed in my vehice has 3 wired connections(plugs) the ones that I keep getting shipped to me are 2 wired connections ( crazy they have the same part number!!!!!)

    So any advice where I can get a 3 wired connector door actuator other than the dealer who wants a ludicris amount.

    anyone have the 3 wires part number and where I can get it.
    and
    anyone know what the diference in the 2 and 3 connector versions is?

    any and all info is appreciated,

    thanks,
    John
  • josh99216josh99216 Member Posts: 9
    I've had my 2003 GMC Yukon Denali for almost 4 months. I've noticed that sometimes my lights flicker. It's so quick and subtle you barely notice it so I haven't worried about it too much until last night. I took an 800 mile round trip to Portland Oregon this weekend. On the way back I had the cruise set and was about an hour from home when my blinker and cruise started acting up. As I would change lanes I would turn the blinker on. Immediately as I turn it on the cruise would cancel and the blinker wouldn't turn on. But if I let go of the blinker arm and turn it right back on it would work and I could reset the cruise. It didn't happen every time just several times.

    Then today I was driving the car in town,not using cruise, and when I would go to turn I'd turn the blinker on and as I hit the brake the blinker would just stay lit. I'd turn the blinker back off then right back on and it would work fine. Any ideas?? I'm worried its gonna get worse and leave me with no lights
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Member Posts: 4
    I have experienced electrical power outage problems on my 2008. Initially I detected a non-start when turning the ignition key. On second attempt, engine started and ran fine. A few starts later, when I turned the key, all lights, gauges, etc. went out and would not start. A repeat turning of the key did nothing...all gauges and instruments remained out. Initially, I thought the battery was low but jump starting did not work from my wife's VW Toureg. Thinking the VW did not have the "juice" to start the big block, I jumped from a friends pickup. It started and ran fine. Next day, same thing. I had the battery tested and it was okay. Took Denali to GM dealer. Mechanic told me there had been problems with battery cables and the relay/fuse box mounted on the firewall behind the battery. He recommended changing the positive cable. This solved the problem...for 3 months. Yesterday, the Yukon would not start and all panel lights were out. I put charge on battery for 6 hours. It took a full charge and panel lights remained out with no noise trying to start. Dealer now tells me the "other", negative cable needs replacing. What is the issue with GM battery cables in Yukon Denali's? Am I going to have an ongoing ?problem
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Member Posts: 4
    I purchased vehicle with 69K miles in September 2011, I had to replace my front pads and rotors in April 2012 at 78,425 miles. In November with 86K miles, I began getting a vibration in the steering wheel on braking. I took the Yukon to my GM Dealer, they said that the rotors were warped from overheating. I have never driven the car hard, although I pull a trailer regularly (maybe 400 of the 8,000 miles since replacement) I do not do hard stops (I'm pulling horses) and I downshift during braking for the very reason I don't want to overheat brakes (I used to race cars, I know about those things) so I am wary of the dealer's response (I'm sure it's what GM tells them to say) I 've been driving cars for 50 years and never had brake rotors fail like this. This dealer has always been square with me and I trust them. The parts manager, offered to sell me drilled and slotted rotors for the price of the standard ones and I agreed. They ordered them in and when I got around to taking the Yukon back in, they found that the rotors were a different size. They checked the parts numbers with Delco and ordered a different set which also were too small/smaller than the standard rotors. I have been told that the rotors are probably made in China (street talk, not from the dealer) and therefore inferior. Could this be so? Is everything including our safety being shopped out to the Chinese? What's going on with GM brake rotors?
  • busymommabusymomma Member Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying I love my Denali and am currently looking at purchasing a 2013, but after reading all of these reviews I am unsure I want to. here is my story and how I ended up on this forum. I googled electrical issues with 07 Denali just to see if I was the only one out there and am sadly not surprised by the extensive amount of comments on this thread. From day 1 (roughly 09) of my purchase I have noticed issues. Started with the lift gate not working and replaced the mechanism to that, then immediately after that and over the last 3-4 years it has been NON-STOP replacing my battery. It would just be dead the next morning when I went to crank it. dead as in not being able to even jump start a majority of the time or charge. Between myself purchasing my own batteries and the dealership replacing batteries I have been through more than I can remember! It has done this at the dealership, but they never can figure out why. I have left it for a week at a time just to try to get it to mess up or to diagnose the issue. I am currently not experiencing this issue, but I did have others that started at Easter this year. First I got an error message about my tire monitor system, then the key fobs stopped working, then it was seat warmers, then my drivers side seat will no longer adjust, the cruise control randomly shuts off, and when I took it in they did replace the control mechanism (I think it is called something like that). They re-programmed my fobs and as soon as I drove off the lot it all stopped working again and my error message came back! It is currently in the service department where they replaces a fuse and said it was working fine, but would keep it 1 more day to make sure all was ok. I have been screaming electrical issue from day 1 on my battery. I called this noting to check and all was "well" but I did ask them to try to figure out why the fuse blew since I had just paid over $300 for the other part. When I called back this afternoon to check on it they said I was not going to be able to pick it up because the fuse blew out again! My seat are all pulled out and apart and they are trying to find the problem. I'm sure I have forgotten a few things, but to me it is quite obvious there is an issue with the 07 & 08 Yukon Denali and no one seems to have a solution for the problem. It makes me mad because every time I have to take it to the dealer I already know what they will say. That they can't figure out what is wrong! Very frustrating. GM needs to own up to an issue with this and come up with a solution.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hi busymomma,

    I am really sorry to hear about your issues. I would like to look into this for you and help restore your confidence in Chevrolet. Can you private message me your full name, address, phone number, Vehicle Identification number, and approximate mileage on your vehicle please? My email address is socialmedia@gm.com "attn Crystal" in the subject header.

    Crystal L-GM Customer Care
  • wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    (Similar to post #114) Mileage 76658
    The following all took place within a three day span. The first sign of trouble was the electrical cut out for just a second while driving. That caused the temperature controls to revert to 74 degrees for driver and passenger side. After readjusting to 68 the drivers side was blowing heated air and the passenger side was normal cool air. I pulled over and turned the engine off and restarted it. Everything was back to normal.

    The next day I parked and the remote nor the door panel lock switch would lock the doors. No interior lights or power at all. Two hours later I hop in and everythings fine.

    The following day the power is cutting out multiple times throughout the day while driving, again resetting the climate controls each time. Also, each time the truck is started the climate controls are reset to 74 degrees.

    Today the locks are cycling crazy and the truck completely died in the middle of the road and took a few minutes for power to restore.

    This is getting very scary and hazerdous all in a short amount of time. I've only owned the truck since September 2012 and have had to have 2 door lock actuators replaced. Sarah at GM Cust Care was actually able to get me half off the standard dealer cost. Here I am again pleading for assistance on what appear to be known issues.
  • billybob99billybob99 Member Posts: 1
    had problems close to these....seems the drivers left front door window switch unit can drain the battery over night, in my case..., (thru car puter etc)...unplug switch assy, and with battery charged, leave overnight to see...
  • wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    I'm taking my 2008 in to the dealer tomorrow for the same issue. Hopefully I can get the labor for free since this seems to be a known issue. I'll post back with the outcome and whether the GM rep on this board has any pull.
  • hjg3hjg3 Member Posts: 4
    Did you ever get a resolution to this? My 2008 Yukon is having the exact same problem and the dealership can't figure out what's wrong/how to fix it. It's been in twice now with the issue - once in the fall when I was stranded and the thing wouldn't start, and now just before Memorial Day and they pulled codes on it again today. I tried to email the socialmedia@gm.com to see if they could help, but they apparently only respond to people who put them on blast on forums.

    My PLAN was to drive this Yukon to 100,000 miles then trade in for another one, but I'm only at about 60,000 miles and am wondering if it's time to ditch. I have a 4-yr-old and 2-yr-old and hate not having a reliable vehicle!
  • wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    I found this POST to be the most spot on for my scenario.

    Frome what I've read, replacing the negative battery cable resolves this close to 90% of the time. I've got 76xxx miles so warranty wasn't an option the dealer said. I've only had it back for one day but so far so good. The cost was $96 for the part and $214 for the labor.

    No help from GM Customer Care although I tried. How does GM get away with this? It's not a matter of if this will happen to the models listed in the bulletin, it's when! Should have been a recall as should have the door lock actuators!

    When I got home and looked under the hood I almost cried at the money I'd just thrown away. Too simple of a job for that kind of money.
  • hjg3hjg3 Member Posts: 4
    My dealership service team came back saying they got a bulletin from GM and thought it was the alternator, but they did not seem at all confident in that diagnosis. My vehicle's symptoms are very similar to yours as well as busymomma's. Today, while accelerating my stabilitrak suddenly turned off and the airbag light started flashing. Then when I restarted it, everything reset itself again (clock, AC controls), and my dash told me to service the 4WD.

    I think I'm going to get a second opinion from a reputable, independent garage in town and possibly just have them do the work to save $$$. I'm really worried this is a bigger "motherboard" problem and the $700 quote for the alternator is just the beginning of bigger expenses to come. Depending on costs, I may have them go ahead and replace the battery cables too and see if the combination of fixes takes care of the problem. :o(

    If anyone else has any insights on these bizarre symptoms...I hope they share.
  • americanmade5americanmade5 Member Posts: 2
    I needlessly replaced the alternator and battery. A new negative battery cable seems to have fixed it. I am still not happy with the performance of the voltage meter...it goes from a slight charge condition upon starting to a near 12V condition when traveling...but the company I bought my new alternator from said this is normal since the BCM only calls for the alternator to charge when the battery is low in order to conserve fuel. Anyway, I would go for the battery cable...and it is easy to replace. All I want for Christmas is a car with no computer!
  • wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    Replacing the negative cable did the trick for me. GM Customer Care opened a case for my issue the day after I picked up my truck from being repaired. Since I'd already paid they offered me a certificate towards future service or routine maintenance. They will help on these types of known issues if you post here and also email them. Looking back I wish I would have gotten a quote from a reputable chain and had my local dealer match it as they were quite pricey to deal with.
  • lola123lola123 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2013
    I have a 2004 GMC Yukon Denali XL, and I love it or maybe I should say loved it until I started having starter issues about 2 years ago. My SUV will not start in the heat of the day. It is worst in the summer then winter. It will start for me in the mornings and late evenings or at night as if nothing was ever wrong with it. But, in the heat of the day, it is dead as a door nail. In this case, If I pop the hood and open the windows for a while, sometimes 5 minutes and other times hours (on cooler days), it will start for me (but then I have no AC and the ride is rough). Sometimes a jump will start it, but I think only because on the days where it will not start I’ve tried it so much I have drained the battery (I really don’t know). I gather at these times it has cooled enough and weather is cooler, I get a jump and it starts.

    I don’t know if it is the computer or what. I’ve had the alternator changed, the starter relay and the starter ignition, but nothing seems to fix the problem. I didn’t have the starter changed as it checked out alright.

    Also, on particularly hot days the temperature gauge on the rear view mirror goes hay wire. Then when the car cools off, it will reset and start working again.

    Please help! I am a single mom of 3 kids and not in a position to buy another auto at the moment. If someone has experienced similar issues, please let me know what you did if you were able to resolve it.

    Thank you
  • shootyshooty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 GMC Yukon Denali. The gauges on the instrument panel are all not working except the gas gauge and the speedometer. Is this a common problem ? Is there a recall on the instrument panel ?
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Member Posts: 4
    I have not had any additional occurrences since they changed the second (negative) cable. They were expensive and I was disappointed that GM did not at least cover the cost of the cable since this seems to be an extensive problem and there is an SB or notice or something about the problem. One issue I do have is with the clock. I have to manually reset the time to the daylight time during DST periods. Once we go back on standard time, it is fine. Go figure. Dealer has no solution. Apparently GM doesn't give Mr. Goodwrench upgrade training for Mr. High Tech!
  • frankies1frankies1 Member Posts: 1
    i replaced a speaker in driver door i reconnected all wire harnesses correctly and now there is no curtsy light, power windows or power locks on that door only thing that works is the driver rear view mirror but the passenger side does not, i tried unhooking the battery for one hr and i checked most every fuse so if you have any other idea of what i can try please let me know thanks
  • mattenmatten Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys,
    since 3 weeks the front and the rear windows and also the sunroof are not working anymore. I checked the fuses and circuit breakers, but they are all fine. It is really strange, because the driver side windows and everything else is working. I can not imagine that all switches and window motors are broken at the same time.
    Maybe it is the wiring, but I do not know, where to start.

    Maybe someone had the same problem or has an idea, what is the root cause of this problem?

    Thanks!
  • hjg3hjg3 Member Posts: 4
    I really appreciate everyone's feedback and advice. I found an independent mechanic who was willing to replace my battery cables based on my request vs. diagnostics (no one could figure out what the problem was based on codes - both the dealer and another independent told me my Yukon needed to be "more broke," to figure it out). The independent mechanic I went with also tested my alternator - which was completely fine. Since we got the cables replaced (did both) three weeks ago, we have not had a single issue with the vehicle. Irritated that if I'd gone with the GMC rec, I would be out well over $1,000 before the problem was fixed. They clearly have a problem, and the response to this forum (when I brought it up to the dealership) was "we can't trust online rumors." I think it's a little more than a rumor at this point.
  • kasey12xkasey12x Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2013 denali and LOVE IT .. till I started having issues its been to the dealer already and they will not fix it, they say that it is an electrical issue but will not fix it till they see it messing up. they said that it is a ground that is messed up is shorting out and they can not locate it till it does it again (* I should add this its the DVD PLAYER in the roof of the car *) they offered to "buy" me a portable dvd player incase it goes out again but I should add that the thing got so hot you could barely touch it. I have 3 children if something happens and it does that again then what they gonna do ?.. has anyone els had this problem with there 2013 gmc denali ? its new it shouldn't be shorting and grounding out an the dvd player goes black an then get so hot you can barley touch it.. HELP! bc clearly my dealership isn't going too.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    edited August 2013
    Hi kasey12x,

    I apologize you are experiencing issues with your 2013 Denali. I understand how your vehicle electrical issue not being fixed can be frustrating. I would like to further discuss this concern with you and help work towards a resolution. Please reach out to us via Email at socialmedia(at)gm.com and include your contact information, VIN, current mileage and the name of the dealer you have been working with.

    Sincerely,

    Laura M.
    GM Customer Care
  • dan7737dan7737 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Yukon with about 110,000 miles that lost power. The Reset Oil Life warning light came on followed by the rest of the dash lights followed by the engine dying. The curious thing is that the vehicle lost all power prior to the engine dying. It is of note that I just came up a mountain pass - however, the engine thermostat and the transmission thermostat were fine. I let the vehicle sit for a few minutes and it started right back up. The engine oil pressure was fine throughout. I stopped about 20 miles later and still nothing was wrong. Prior problems include the air conditioner blowing only hot air and the drivers automatic seat controls failing to stop. The air conditioner was apparently due to a malfunctioning board, which was replaced. The seat controls are a new problem as of August 15, 2013 - they will not respond and I cannot change the seat position. If there is anything I am leaving out or any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate the feedback - to figure out the air conditioner bit it cost me almost $1,000 and I don't want to repeat that. Oh - and as a post thought, the dash radio gets extremely hot whether the radio is on or off - hopefully I don't regret buying this Denali.
  • mmalina31mmalina31 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Denali that I bought 6 months ago, it was a pre owned Certified one as it had 62000 miles on it and from the minute I left the lot I had electrical issues. The car would simply black out, and then reset, I had it looked at and dealer said sorry. Well we were driving to Texas and low and behold the dash started flashing and check engine light came on, AC Stopped working and it tried to shut off, but we were going 75mph and it cycled through the shutdown, it was very scary. Now every 3-4 weeks same thing happens and I pop the hood tug on the battery cables and the car turns on, Dealer cant fgure it out, and my warranty is out! I owe 35k on it and they keep charging me for the wrong thing. Anyone else having issues like this, I have read to change out the terminal wires, which I will do this weekend but, sad 43,000 for a car ad doesnt even function! WTF GM! HELP ME ANYONE! Thanks!
  • jheide58jheide58 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the exact same problem. When my black 2007 Denali sits in sun, upon starting all the gauges are off or sometimes the traction controls fails, and then sometimes half the AC system blows warm while the passenger side blows cold. Go figure!
    Anyway, if you found anything I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
  • oldllamaoldllama Member Posts: 4
    WOW! I have searched the net everywhere and then I run across this post,
    It is exactly what is going on right now with my 05 Denali.

    Hottest day of the year going down the hiway all of the sudden most guages go out, A/C out, radio out, dome lights out, and most of the dummy warning lights light up in the cluster, but the engine runs just fine.

    Items come on for a few seconds at a time but go back off.

    Parked vehicle overnight and battery was completely drained.
    Charged battery and have same issues but it is very intermitent.
    While just sitting in the garage turn key on everything normal, key off then on again and no asesories or guages, dome light affected as well as door locks.

    Man am i confused!

    Hoping you get this post and clue me in as to how you found the problem
    .
    Any help out there as to what to troubleshoot would sure be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • hjg3hjg3 Member Posts: 4
    In my last post on this board, I said I'd have an independent mechanic look at my '08 Yukon - they couldn't figure it out either but were willing to replace the battery cables as a place to start - a $250 job (GMC dealer wanted to replace my alternator - $750, then maybe my battery if that didn't fix it - another $200, as their place to start). I did it, and haven't had a single issue since. Oh, and the independent mechanic removed and tested my alternator on the same equipment the GMC dealer should have, and it was in perfect working order. I'm keeping my receipt while waiting for what I think must be the inevitable GMC recall on their battery cables.
  • elcee3elcee3 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my Denali new and over the years I've had a variety intermittent and temporary (1-6 mos) issues which, of course, did not happen when I took it in to the shop, so the dealership didn't fix any of them. I'll try to list them in order.
    Stereo shut off, usually restarting once or twice would help. Note: my stereo control area and buttons always get very very hot, dealership says this is normal.
    Using either turn signal, the emergency flashers would come on instead. Closing the back hatch, hard, usually resolved this for a trip or two.
    Interior lights did not come on when opening the doors or using the key fob for a few months.
    Heated seats turn on and off randomly, at different settings. Control buttons would work so I could turn them off.
    AC is very cold and will give a 5-15 second blast of heat at random intervals.
    Radio stays on after ignition has been turned off and the driver door is opened. Opening the back hatch will turn it off. This trick seems to be winding down since the radio, lately, will turn off after the the door has been open a minute or so. Note: Turning it off by the switch does not turn off all the lights on the panel. The interior lights work fine.
    I have been told that updating the software on the Body Control Manual should resolve these issues and that it maybe a good idea to update the Drive Train Control Module as well. Any thoughts or experience with this?
  • oldllamaoldllama Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply! I think the cables look like something I can handle myself so i'll start there.
    Did you replace both neg and pos cables or just Negative?
  • lilly110lilly110 Member Posts: 1
    Not a problem with the first crank of the day but once my 03 Yukon warms up and/or we have to stop for gas or for any reason it take about four tries before it starts up again. This has increase from twice to four times over the last month and its getting worst. We blow over $500.00 on replacing the fuel pump on the recommendation from a GMC dealer how wanted over $1000 but we still have the same problem. Can anyone help me with this issue?
  • oldllamaoldllama Member Posts: 4
    i replaced the negative battery cable last night and I thought it was fixed because everything worked for about 15 minutes of engine running and then all of a sudden, again no guages, A/c blows hot, no locks, no radio and dummy lights on dash are lit and no dome lights.
    Whats going on here? do i try BCM or positive battery cable? why was it fixed for 15 minutes?
    Very frusterated. any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • zyvxn1zyvxn1 Member Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    elcee3 - Did you find out what the issue was?

    I'm finding the following issues happening now with my 05 Yukon as well:
    - Radio stays on even after you turn off the truck and open the door
    - Heater on driver side comes on and the control lights go on and of at variable settings. You can turn it off, but it comes back on.
    - clock is staying on after truck is off.

    These are all random and might happen once today, then not again for a few days, then a bunch at once. It's craziness!

    Anyone know what the issue likely is? Seems there are to comments I see in this thread -- battery cables and computer update.
  • mellow716mellow716 Member Posts: 1
    S.O.S anyone found out why these vehicles are doing this? I have a 2000 Yukon XL, my battery dies overnight. charge and It starts up and runs lately it'll start up run I'll turn it off and then it won't start up again. now the car flickers radio stays on, it almost seems as if the remote start is the corporate , if I press the break pedal and take the keys out then everything seems to reset. Then I have to charge for a few hours ad I can drive. I Dont understanding what's wrong . help
  • zyvxn1zyvxn1 Member Posts: 3
    Follow-up on my problem (listed in post 161) -

    I was told the heater control doing the light dance and coming on and off was a bad unit in the driver seat. I was told the part was $600+ and total bill is estimated over $800. I asked about simply disconnecting it, but that would kill the seat memory and the ability to adjust the seat. As such, I'm kind of stuck.

    The radio and things staying on is a separate problem. They can't reproduce the issue (crazy), so they aren't sure what it is. They said it could be any of several modules in the truck but is most likely a service module in the door that controls when things go off. They said the battery cables and everything were not the issue.

    If others have seen this issue, please post any info you might have as well.
Sign In or Register to comment.