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TJ's were from 97-06 (with the round headlights) and had a car-like dash. Coil springs on all 4 corners vs leaf springs for the 88-95 YJ Wranglers. If you could find a 2000-2004 TJ, you'd be a in a very good range for quality AND price. Newer Wranglers (05-06) are still fetching higher prices for some reason. After 2000, a lot of the early bugs were worked out and tend to be pretty reliable along with the newer transmissions.
-Paul
I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler and when I shift into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears there is a loud grind unless i shift around 1800rpm but my engine is to weak to shift that early. It always grinds when I downshift! I have gotten a few tips from people... one saying that it is the clutch and the other saying that it may be the synchros or the tranny! What are synchros? Any ideas on what the problem is?
Thanks!!!!!
Check the easy stuff first. Do you have enough fluid in your clutch master cylinder ? Does your clutch operate smoothly? Do you have enough travel on the pedal? Does the clutch pedal vibrate? Do you have alot of miles on the clutch. You may have bent clutch fingers or a worn throw out bearing face or even a bent fork. These are all parts of the clutch that can cause grinding. It is cheaper if these are the problems than working on the gearbox itself.
When you step on the clutch pedal you are disangaging the clutch faces and allowing the synchros to align the power gears at the right speed. If your clutch does not completely release then you will grind.
You can test your synchros by power shifting (shifting without using the clutch) only do this if you know how. Do not do this if you have never tried it before.
If you can power shift then the synchros are usually OK.
My two cents worth of advice Good luck
Does anyone know if this is caused by a solenoid valve sticking ? If so thats an easy fix for me. If not its time for a rebuild.
Problem is more prevelant during cold weather.
Here is the update for the 1992 Wrangler with the "whining" sound. As of today, the rear differential has been completely rebuilt and driven for more than 1,500 miles. The "whining" noise has gone away as far as I can tell. According to the mechanic who works on off-road vehicles, the previous shop (a general transmission shop) who had done a kit rebuild on the rear differential (wrangler had ~185,000 on it at that time) did not do the job correctly which is why it only lasted 40,000 miles. I took it back to the off-road shop for a 1,000 mile check after the rebuild and the rear differential looked great.
i drive a 2000 jeep wrangler se sport 4.0L 4x4. i'm a student working on my BS degree in nursing. one day i took my jeep out to enjoy some mud. a week later i noticed that the jeep wasn't driving just right so i took it in to have the clutch looked at and i replaced it. however, the problem wasn't fixed. i'm a novice with mechanical issues so i asked a friend for advice. i took the jeep to a transmission shop and the problem was clear. i fluided the transmission with water/mud. so i had the transmission rebuilt for 1,200 dollars. a year and a half later which is the present, my second gear is grinding bad when i shift into it. i took the jeep back to the transmission shop and the shop owner informed me that the gear was bad. he said that jeep is aware of this common issue in the 2000 jeep wrangler and that it would be extremely expensive to fix the tranny. he said i could either put in a rebuilt 2nd gear that might not last a year, or completely replace the tranny and drive shaft. well i dont have a lot of money since im in school. so i decided to just shift from 1st to 3rd until i can afford to fix the problem. now 3rd gear is starting to drink just slightly ever once in a while. i'm concerned that this will only get worse. someone please help me. i love my jeep and i would hate to sell it, just because i cant spend the money to fix it. and it sounds like if i fix it i will continue to have issues later down the road.
thank you for listening,
josh
Try more right leg pressure first.
My 99 Grand Cherokee is a 6 Cyl 4L and the console says it is Quadra Track II. It is full time 4WD with the left hand lever having 4H N 4L options. It snowed this weekend in Ohio which was my first chance in a couple of years to take the Jeep into low traction situation. I got stuck immediatly. It made no difference if I was in 4H or 4L. I am very puzzled as to why I didn't even get "posi - track" at the rear axle. A couple of years ago I had the guys at the oil change shop change the oil in the transfer case and (I think) the differentials (possibly not). It may not have worked since then... Thank you for your help.
That is one reason our 2000 WJ Grand Cherokee had the Quadra Drive II, to help minimize that.
As far as your front axle goes, are you SURE you're getting it completely into 4hi or 4lo? Those levers can be a pain to get to where you need them to be and our 2000 was not easy to put in 4lo. Another dumb question, you sure your t-case has the front driveshaft installed? It can be removed with no ill effects in 2wd mode, but w/o it you won't be able to get power to the front in 4wd.
Improper fluids COULD cause the problem, but it would be a more long term thing. I use Redline fluids in my transmission, Mobil 1 in the transfer case, and a synthetic in my diffs (for my 97 Wrangler). Unless you need that specific additive for the Quadra Drive, you should be okay. I just don't know enough about those additives (I don't need em on mine since I have ARB lockers).
-Paul
I now have removed the transmission and the clutch. The clutch looks relatively new. That said, I am taking suggestions. Should I go ahead and have the transmission gone through since I have it out or does anyone believe a transmission service with the correct 75W/90W and a clutch adjustment would have a high probability of success? Also, should the clutch still get replaced regardless of it's condition (groves still present on the pressure plate, disc looks great with a lot of meat left, and the flywheel still showing resurface swirls).
I am not exactly asking for a diagnosis as much as I am simply asking for opinions from the masses as to what the logical next steps should be now that the transmission is off the vehicle.
As for the transmission, it obviously had issues prior to running on ATF so there's no question that it needs overhauling. At the very least it will need new synchromesh rings, and quite possibly bearings, selector forks, maybe some of the gears, and definitely seals and gaskets. You may want to consider an exchange remanufactured unit. Your transmission should be an AX15.
Absolutely. Bear in mind though, that if you take it in for an estimate (for which they may or may not charge you) it'll be given back to you in pieces if you don't like the quote, unless you pay for it to be reassembled. In your case it may well be that repair costs are higher than the cost of an exchange unit.
Check the internet for a reputable supplier. You pay for the transmission plus a core charge, which is refunded when you return your old transmission. You may even find that your local transmission shop has the best deal, but you won't know until you shop around.................which is what your phone and computer are for.
Make sure they warranty the whole transmission afterwards, otherwise you might as well get an exchange remanufactured unit.
Otherwise, remove the transmission and either strip, fix, and rebuild, or replace with a remanufactured unit.
NOW here is the big question. Do I go with GL-3, Redline MT90 or Syncromesh? Sounds like the Syncromesh is the way to go or Redline MT-90.
-Paul
60K miles - driven as a recreational vehicle.
Correct trans fluids are used and all levels are optimal.
The past year, my jeep is having issues at start up. It will engage in drive and then slip out. If I move down to the 2 gear, same issue. The only gear it seems to hold is 1...but that is now starting to become suspect. This issue only happens when the engine is cold and primarily in the morning. It rarely happens when warm out and/or later in the day.
I have seen similar posts, but have not seen any suggestions as to what the matter is. Anyone have any idea? Thanks for your insight.
-Paul
What affect on the gears would cold weather have? This really only happens in the mornings upon start up. After about 5 mins or so everything works just perfect. It's getting to that 5 mins that is troublesome.
One more thing: Could it have anything to do with any seals or rubber rings maybe drying out or stiffening up? Then once the the engine runs for a bit they loosen back up and the system is good to go.
What about a solenoid valve sticking? Could tightening the linkage help out?
-Thanks for your time,
Mike
Seals and rings are probably something you should at least look at and make sure you have no leaks. If it isn't leaking, don't fix it. Not sure about the solenoid valve, but tightening the linkage MIGHT be something to at least look at.
You may also want to consider changing your transfer case fluid as well. Since it is actually what drives the driveshaft and axles, doing that fluid certainly can't hurt. I believe it uses ATF+ (I used Mobil 1 if I recall correctly).
-Paul
I will look into all of these and report back as I find the solution.
I appreciate your time.
-Mike
Any thoughts?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
"if not sooner"?
Good one
Terry
Can someone give me a "it could be" list?
Thanks.
Either way, the transmission needs to be removed and disassembled to fix things.
Meanwhile, make sure the transmission is filled to the correct level with a GL-3 gear oil (not a GL-5 and not a "compatible with all transmissions" type).
Check the old oil for metal filings. My guess is that you'll find brass from the synchro rings.
Finally, learn to double declutch. Now a lost art except with big rig drivers, it used to be the only way to change gear with a non-synchromesh transmission.
Each time you hear it it grind, a little more metal wears away; double declutching will prevent that.
X2 on the GL-3. I use Redline MT-90 gear oil in my transmission and it really smoothed things out a LOT. It is a high quality synthetic. Royal Purple is another good one to use.
-Paul
04 sport/A/T transmission/4L eng.
If it is only a P0303 code, then I'd suggest wires, plugs, distributor/cap, all be checked and replaced as necessary.
-Paul