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Kia Sedona Towing

fishbreathfishbreath Posts: 58
edited June 2014 in Kia
I've read all about the towing on pre 06, but what about towing with 06 on up? I have a 06 LX with 36,000 plus miles on it and I'm proud to say orginal brakes. I'm looking to tow a 6X10 enclosed motorcycle trailer with a weights of 1000 -1300 for the trailer and 800 lb.nomad and 600lb shadow. Total 2700LBS. I would think electric brakes would be a must. I do tow a 1000 lb boat with trailer with no problem.
Who tows what with the newer sodona??


  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Hi there....

    I don't have a KIA mini-van but do have a mini-van equiped for hauling / towing my little 4x8 trailer and 6x10 trailer (that has electric brakes). For your KIA mini-van (that has the same towing specs as my mini-van), I'd recommend:

    - Install of Aux transmission cooler. Install Tru-Cool or Hayden brand. If wondering, I installed Hayden brand in my mini-van. re: - Code=OC-1678&Category_Code=hayden-transaver&Product_Count=2 This LPD Design cooler (for up to 5,000 lbs trailer) works great.

    - Install Electric Brake Controller (for a trailer that uses electric brakes). Some folks like the P2 or P3 prodigy brake controller model. I use the Husky Excursion brake controller in my van. Both are brands work great. If your trailer comes with Surge Brakes, then ensure the Surge Brakes are properly configured / adjusted.

    - Install Class III hitch. A hitch that can accept a Weight Distribution System. Some Class III hitches have curved bars. Thus, cannot accept a WDS. If you need to use a WDS for attached trailer, your Class III hitch can support it.

    - Install 7 pin connector at rear of your vehicle. Ensure its 12V pin is wired to your vehicle's battery as well. Thus, charging up (trickle charger rate) your trailer's onboard 12+ battery (that's used for its electric brake's - break away system).

    - Install Timbren SES units in the rear of the van. If wondering, Timbren SES units replace the factory rubber bump stops. They are like air bags without pressurized air inside them. The more one presses down on rear of the vehicle, the more they work. If wondering, I installed Timbren SES units on my previous van (leaf spring version) and Timbren SES units on my current mini-van (coil spring version). Love them since day 1 (for both towing and non-towing conditions). For more details, surf: &

    Hope these items help.

    They definately helped my mini-van (for its hauling & towing needs).

  • I would also suggest going with a cross-drilled rotor setup for much improved performance. Go on e-bay and search: Kia Sedona Rotors I purchased my set off of e-bay, I believe the store of R1 concepts and had pep boys install them. They have been fantastic. Zero brake-float due to heat and improved stopping distance.
  • I've found a set of rotors with ceramic pads on E-bay, my question is, are the ceramic the way to go or semi-matalic
  • From Wiki answers:

    Pros of Ceramic
    - They in general last longer than semi metallic
    - they can take slightly more abuse
    - they leave minimal brake dust most isn't noticeable unless you let it go for a long while. Making them a great companion to chrome rims.

    Cons of Ceramic
    - Ceramic brakes need to warm up a little before they get the grip of a semi metallic.
    - Cost more.... sometimes ALOT more sometimes not tho.

    Pros of Semi metallic
    - Better grip than ceramic when not warmed up
    - they can be much cheaper than ceramic

    Cons of semi metallic
    - wear out quicker
    - brake dust is much more apparent
    - the guy at autozone doesn't get as much commission

    I've used both. I've been buying semi metallic for a while but it's because I've got a lifetime warrenty on them to I dont pay for them when I get them replaced. I just put my chrome on for the summer... I'm thinking of switching to ceramic. Just remember you're going to have to brake slightly harder or earlier until those puppies get hot. The difference is not extremely noticable in performance. If you have chrome rims you want to take care of, go with ceramic. If you want more life out of your pads, go with ceramic. If you dont want to pay that much, go with semi-metallic.


    Earlier ceramic brake pads are supposed to be the ones that mainly have to heat up before they grip as well as semi-metallic. Supposedly some recent ceramic pads don't have this problem. You'll need to do some research to find out which is which.

    Also, some ceramic brake pads wear out rotors faster than organic and some semi-metallic pads, so if you're going to install ceramic pads, and if your current rotors are approaching their minimal thickness, it's best to replace the rotors with tougher ones designed for use with ceramic pads, that won't wear out as fast. However, if your current rotors are in good shape, just keep them in place until it's time to replace them, then replace them with ones designed to wear less with ceramic pads.
  • Have finished the 2nd camping season towing a Coleman Santa Fe behind my 2007 EX. :shades:
    Am very pleased with how the Sedona performs. You might get more drag with the bigger frontage, but weight wise you should have no problems. The Sedona has enough power to maintain 120 up HW400 (here in Ontario) though usually try to do 110 to improve fuel economy. And I love the shifter to control breaking.

    Go give it a try, I'm sure you'll be fine. :D
  • what weight is your camper and do have brakes on the trailer? I just received new rotors and brakes but not to comfortable doing brakes. I too down shift my van to save on brakes. The brakes still have some lining left with 40,000 miles
  • A Santa Fe is 2300 lbs popup. When we take it camping it's probably more like 2600 lbs. (Note to self, to weight it some time.)
    And for sure you want to have electric brakes on it. Had a brake controller installed by dealer, when I bought the car. Wish I had not done so. It's an entry level controller; for a little more there are better out there, like the Prodigy.
    I'm also still on first pads at 65,000 km.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239

    For anyone who pulls a trailer behind their van - including me....

    A very wise man once told me that brakes on any vehicle (car, van, Pickup, etc.) are designed for its own body weight and its MAX cargo weight. For many mini-vans, internal cargo weight (including people and its rear cargo items) is MAX 1,600 lbs. If one adds people inside the vehicle, their body weight is then subtracted from total weight. For example, typical 2 x 200 lbs people (husband and wife) on a typical comping trip converts to: 1,600 lbs - 400 lbs (people) + 200 lbs of "average" onboard camping gear = 1,000 lbs. If one connects a loaded trailer weighing more then 1,000 lbs (in this specific example), then vehicle factory brakes are being "over taxed". Over taxed means vehicle brakes wear out quicker and in some cases, will fail. Not to mention being able to stop both vehicle and trailer within a "safe" distance. Thus, a trailer weighing more then 1,000 lbs (regardless of one's local laws), needs its own brakes. Either surge or full electric brakes. In some regions (like hilly regions), towing laws state that any trailer over 1,000 lbs (regardless of vehicle towing it) needs its own brakes. Period.

    If wondering, I installed full electric brakes under my one utility trailer. Very easy "low cost" axle replacement (with brake hubs) and some 10 guage wiring install. Only took 3 hours to perform the upgrade task myself. Pulling this trailer with and without full electric brakes is like comparing night and day. re: No comparison at all. When towing any trailer heavier then 1,500 lbs (or less weight when vehicle holds more then a single driver), ensure the trailer has its own brakes. The benefits of brakes on attached trailer are well worth it. It saves lives, saves vehicle brakes and eliminates white knuckles during panic stops as well...

    Lesson learned the hard way.....

This discussion has been closed.