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Mitsubishi Endeavor Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • yuryyury Member Posts: 146
    A question to fellow endeavor owners.
    My 07 AWD seems to have a minor vibration at 60mph and up. The level of vibration I am talking about is something you wouldn't notice when you have your both hands on the wheel, but slight side to side movement of the wheel when you take your hands off completely or hold it lightly with two fingers.

    Before I got new tires it was pretty much constant. With the new tires (installed few days ago) it is a lot better. Most of the time there's nothing at all, but I did notice that on some particular sections of the highways there's still some of that.

    When I was getting the new tires I asked the dealer to look over everything that may cause it other than the tires. They did and said that everything is in a good shape. I only have about 30 thousand on the odometer.

    Last weekend I drove a Yaris we have in the family and that thing exhibits no vibes whatever. I do realize that Yaris has electric steering which is pretty numb while the steering on the Endeavor is pretty tactile and also fairly light.
    I wonder if perhaps an occasional minor vibe like this is no more than a normal characteristic of this setup?

    Or perhaps there some other factors at play, such as higher center of gravity compared to a car, or maybe wind buffeting... Mind you, this is my first unibody SUV and I don't know what to expect. I used to drive a 03 Ranger and that truck would vibrate sometimes with no apparent reason since it was brand new. Which I choked up to be a normal characteristic of that platform.

    Again, you wouldn't really notice it unless you look for it.
  • paul189paul189 Member Posts: 5
    have you:
    1) removed the glove box
    2) removed the shield behind the glove box? (start with the top right and be gentle as you pull out and away from the dash, you are trying to release the connectors from the clips.
    3) do you see what appears to be a large dvd rom drive? if your cabin air filter WAS NOT installed you should have a "knockout", you will need to go the dealer and purchase the cover...you may need 2 course thread screws (i didnt as mine just snapped into place).

    I just went though this myself, the dealership charged me $32 and tax for the clip and a filter...regular price was $44 plus tax.

    I am NOT A MECHANIC and I SHALL NOT be held liable should you make a mistake...I am simply a person trying to save you the frustrations that I experienced.
  • paul189paul189 Member Posts: 5
    i paid just a bit over $32 + tax for mine. the dealer told me he was giving me a discount, regular price was $44 + tax.
  • paul189paul189 Member Posts: 5
    have you:
    1) removed the glove box
    2) removed the shield behind the glove box? (start with the top right and be gentle as you pull out and away from the dash, you are trying to release the connectors from the clips.
    3) do you see what appears to be a large dvd rom drive? if your cabin air filter WAS NOT installed you should have a "knockout", you will need to go the dealer and purchase the cover...you may need 2 course thread screws (i didnt as mine just snapped into place).

    I just went though this myself, the dealership charged me $32 and tax for the clip and a filter...regular price was $44 plus tax.

    I am NOT A MECHANIC and I SHALL NOT be held liable should you make a mistake...I am simply a person trying to save you the frustrations that I experienced.
  • 04mitz04mitz Member Posts: 1
    i have an 2004.5 endeavor. i absolutely love it. the only expensive thing i have done is 2500 last inspection for tires, breaks, rotors, tie rod, timing belt, and trans flush. my only other problem is the whistling propeller, but if its not causing damage, i will deal with the noise. my endeavor has 145k miles on it, and still drives like a new car. i would definately purchase another one
  • paulnkpaulnk Member Posts: 2
    Another Endeavor owner, thanks for your comments. My wife and I are both happey with our Endeavors. No problems but I have had good luck with 87 regular from certain locations in Fort Lauderdal area.
  • makaylamariemakaylamarie Member Posts: 1
    i currently have 101,000 miles on my 04 mitsubishi endeavor. i am a travel nurse and drive everywhere i go. not sure what the "norm" is on these cars as to how many miles do the generally last. i had bumper to bumper up until 100,000miles and now nervous that warranty is up..... i am driving to cali in less than a month and from where i am now its a 25 hour drive.. can someone give me ANY input on this.. please!
  • jvuongjvuong Member Posts: 3
    You can always buy a "powershield" warranty for ~$2K which will cover the transmission, timing belt, engine, etc for another 5 yrs, 100k miles. They are reputable and if you choose $0 deductible, it's worth it bc transmission work alone could cost you 2500+ and if you never had that replaced, chances you will in the next 100k.

    Just google powershield but let me know if u have any problems finding it. I can find the specific web or phone number for ur reference.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    just brought a 2006 endeavnor limited, on problems and hope I don't have any , can you just give me an overview of how all of you enjoy your SUV , its had one owner, clean, 85,000 miles. I live in NY and i know it calls for 91 gas but I have to put 93 gas in it. will I have any problems. ? thanks
  • kozikowskikozikowski Member Posts: 19
    The paint on the body looks pretty good (2005 LS), but the rear bumper paint was flaking in spots. I have now had two relatively minor backing accidents (one one each corner of the bumper) and the paint cracked and is flaking off in big pieces. It looks like crap, but it is not worth the $300-500 to have this fixed right now.
  • kozikowskikozikowski Member Posts: 19
    All things being equal, higher octane is better than lower octane. The only place that I know you can get 91 is Sunoco which is what I use 8 out of 10 fill ups. It is a pain, but one option is to fill the tank 50/50 with 89 and 93 which will give you an average of 91.

    I know that there are people who run their cars regularly on either 89 or even 87 since it is cheaper at the pump, but when I switched from 87 to 91 my average MPG went from 18 to 22, a 20% increase, while the cost per gallon is generally 10-15 cents more.
  • kozikowskikozikowski Member Posts: 19
    We are experiencing an intermittent 'Service Engine Soon' light with our 2006 Endeavor when using the air conditioning. The light does not illuminate immediately - it can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours and will reset if the car is driven for an hour or so with the AC off.

    Seems odd since there does not appear to be a connection between the emission and AC systems.
  • herewegoherewego Member Posts: 9
    See post # 403.
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    Use the octane as stated in your vehicle's owner manual. If you put a higher octane in than specified you could cause damage to the injectors. I have 263,000 kms on my 2002 Odyssey and have never used more than 87 octane and have had no engine problems. On long trips I average about 34 miles per gallon. :)

    2002 Honda Odyssey EX
    1992 Ford Taurus L 4 door 300 cu in long-stroke
    1982 Ford E150 Customized by Triple-E travel Van 351 cu ins V8
    1979 Mercury Zephyr 6 cylinder 4-door sedan
    1972 Datsun 510 4-door automatic 1967 Plymount Valiant 2-door sedan large-v6
    1965 Morris 1100
    1963 Austin 850 mini
  • jsd4321jsd4321 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 endeavor and none of the power windows work on the drivers side controls. The other three all work from their individual doors. I ordered a used window switch assy online & replaced it, I have the same problem. Is there something else that could be causing this? Is it possible that I have two assemblies doing the exact same thing?
  • blw11blw11 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i have a 2004 Endeavor and the windows/door locks work intermittently and sometimes stop working altogether for a period of time. I have replaced the master switch on the driver's door, but that did not resolve the issue. I'll check the wire harnes between the door and the body of the vehicle but would appreciate any information if others have had a similar issue and resolved it.
  • blw11blw11 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2004 Endeavor and the windows/door locks work intermittently and sometimes stop working altogether for a period of time. I have replaced the master switch on the driver's door, but that did not resolve the issue. I'll check the wire harnes between the door and the body of the vehicle but would appreciate any information if others have had a similar issue and resolved it.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,704
    Separately, Mitsubishi is recalling more than 19,000 Endeavor crossover vehicles from the 2006-2008 model years to address air conditioning problems. It says the air flow could randomly change direction and the temperature could cycle between hot and cold.

    The problem could affect the defroster, which could lead to poor windshield visibility and a crash. Mitsubishi spokesman Dan Irvin said it investigated after receiving a few warranty claims about the issue. There have been no crashes or injuries tied to the recall.

    Mitsubishi said the recall is expected to begin in December. Owners can contact Mitsubishi at (800) 222-0037.

    Suzuki said it had not yet determined the timing of the recall. Owners can call Suzuki at (877) 284-8301.

    Here's the link to the article.

    http://www.wdtn.com/dpps/money/auto_news/suzuki-mitsubishi-issue-recalls-nt10-jg- r_3634730

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • ralliart25ralliart25 Member Posts: 2
    I do have the same problem, it seems to be a mechanical problem becuase before this thing fails, I have heard an unusual sounds that is coming out of the dash and I saw ccumulation of dusts as well which means there is no air coming out. I have scheduled a repir on this I will try to get some information what causes his thing to happen...This is a safety issue, last night I was driving and it is -21 degree C here and the windshield start to become unclear because of the fogging...and I have with my family... :mad: :confuse:
  • ralliart25ralliart25 Member Posts: 2
    Guys, Mitsubishi dealer just called me tat there is a recall to his particular problem in 2007 Endeavor...you might as well talk to the dealer to schedule for the repair and replacement of some parts...

    I will suggest to ask them to tell us what are still those recalls we should know so we are not going to caught in some situation that mught endanger of our lives...I will do the same thing...as of now this is the third recall that I have since I bought this truck...
  • vedermaniavedermania Member Posts: 2
  • borinborin Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm having the same problem as you. Were you able to solve this issue? Thanks.
  • endeav04awdendeav04awd Member Posts: 2
    This was a problem for my vehicle, and would have cost me quite a bit to remedy if I didn't get fixed under warranty. And, I've not the time to tear apart my dash - done it with an old Pathfinder, and I'm through with that hassle.

    Two problems: 1) if there's a drain hole, the dealer couldn't find it - and says the design is without one; as he explained, there are channels through which the water is supposed to drain. These get clogged with the broken down organic matter (oak leaves are the main culprit in my neck of the woods). 2) There's no cabin filter. Why, one may ask? Dunno.

    Dealer was reticent to do it, but after I let two blower units burn up under warranty, they finally drilled a drain hole and drain tube, and also retro fitted a filter to help prevent the accumulation of leaf matter. I still check under the car for good drips after running AC, though - especially now that I am out of warranty.
  • endeav04awdendeav04awd Member Posts: 2
    Do you get the sound of a jet taking off as you accelerate, coming from one front wheel or the other? My 2004 AWD Endeavor has 105K on it now, and the whine is either something I'm used to, or reduced.

    However, at about 45,000 miles, it suddenly appeared and was really loud. took it into dealer 2 times - and Mitsu has a Bulletin on the issue. Claimed the noise was not a warrantied fix, as it was not a sign of part failure, and was normal with normal wear.

    Any folks have this problem - did it go away? Anything break?
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/47810883@N08/sets/72157627010522684/

    I took some video... I'm thinking, in the 2nd video... that is the drain hole access...

    There's not really a drip line...more like a seam....
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    Did the $2.67 new drain tube modification this weekend.
    image

    After putting in the top hole... found a glob of foam right there at the pipe. Since I was drilling a 3/8in hole I could clear it out... Dawned on me... you can just drill an access hole there and use it to clear out any blockage. Of course... I drilled the A/C box hole last... so I figure now I have a 2nd drain pipe if it clogs again.

    In the "access" point senerio , you could just plug the hole with a rubber stopper.

    You can see more pictures in the flickr stream.
  • ncattncatt Member Posts: 3
    had this problem coming from back - mechanic said rear wheel bearing - had trouble removing seized axle - so replaced with a used one $280. - total repair was over $900. now hearing this sound from front - driver side - mitsu dealer says its the wheel bearings - we bought nov.2005 - just went to 100,000. km. now lots of little problems popping up - had problem with (i) sensor light on intermittitly now all the time - they wouldn't fix when it was still under warranty saying that it didn't show a problem (the diagnostic test) this light was on for over a year before 5 year warranty ended - so i'm stuck with this light on all the time - tire pressure was tested and was always ok.
  • bengel1bengel1 Member Posts: 1
    I, too am having intermittent tire pressure light issues. It seems when the weather is too hot or too cold the light comes on and flashes. The flashing means the sensor is not working properly. I was advised the sensor monitors the spare, also so make sure it is secure in the wheel compartment. My 2005 Endeavor has over 100,000 miles on it.
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    Where did you buy the parts and how is the diameter of the hole you drill to the a/c evap. and to the floor or the firewall of the Endeavor. I move from Puerto Rico to Florida and I'm refuse to pay the dealer $650 plus tax for this design mistake . Thanks in advance for your help
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    The parts, I purchased them at a local hardware store. It's just a simple plastic tube, 1/4 inch I think... and the matching rubber grommets. I would say the diameter doesn't really matter so long as you have a good seal with the grommet and tube. Especially at the A/C box.

    The hole I cut in the A/C box I followed the TSB for this issue: TSB 09-55-002

    I'm still having a problem though. The foam that I used to seal the old drain hole has dissolved and I'm leaking again. Basically, the old hole is lower than the new hole I put in. My fix today, is going to put a rubber stopper inside the A/C box, to plug the old hole.... from the inside. Since It's about impossible to get to it though the firewall...ect. That should stop the flow of water out the old hole...and force it down my new one. if it doesn't work, the plug should be easy to remove.

    I talked to our closest Mitsubishi dealer Friday about the rumored fix of a Eclipise radiator overflow tube being the right diameter to fit though our outside firewall, and over the old A/C box drain tube. Apparently that has worked for many people on the mitsubishi-forums.com site.
    My dealer had no clue about that. This while they had two Endeavors back in the shop for this same issue. They said their first fix is to seal all around the old tube with silicone, like you would in a bathroom. Of course, that didn't work so the Endeavors they attempted that on are back in the shop. They are going to call me back with what they do to fix it. As of Friday they were going to tear apart the dash, that $650-900 cost repair. Crazy...

    This is the latest video, showing the dissolved seal I put in and the active leak.
    Plugging the original drain hole is the priority...
    Video of the Flood
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    Well, the plug and drain method has held for the past few hours. We'll see how it does on some hwy miles/bumps/ect...

    I've uploaded new photos and a final video. It shows what I used to plug the original A/C drain plug from the inside and how the new drain tube is working. For now of course...

    The final Video: New Drain Pipe - In Action
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    I do the mod today .... hope it works ok with my LS Endeavor. Its yours still holding strong?
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    It's holding up well.

    I'm putting the full carpet back in today. I'll do a very through check then looking for any pools but when I've been looking, no streams, leaks, ect... all dry...and that lovely smell of water/musk is gone from the car...so doing well.

    I was surprise how fast the rust started to form at the top corner of the floor board. I don't think a few months of that leak would be good... :sick:

    Plugging from the inside was the key:
    image

    image

    What it looks like before installing the new drain tube... water flowing out of the new grommet.
    image
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    I do the mod but the water still go out at the part that first start to come in . Is the place were you put the expanded foam that later you cut out. The drain tube is at the same hight you did yours and everything as you posted. What can I do on this matter. I also cut the rubber ad foam that is around that tinny OEM drain piece on crap tube.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    The key is plugging the original OEM drain hole from the inside.

    The expanded foam is useless. Ignore that hole part. It really isn't needed.

    Plugging the whole from inside using these overflow caps from advanced auto is what I did to stop flow from the original OEM hole.

    See the image above of the black plug that looks like a rubber bullet.
    It's from this kit of overflow/bypass caps at any auto store.
    image

    I used this hanger to push it into the OEM hole, from the inside of the A/C box, using the hole you drill in the side.

    image

    Does that help? Plug from the inside, not using the foam around the outside. The foam round the outside didn't work for me and it wasn't' working for the dealer here in upstate SC.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    image
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    I manage to do everything you post on earlier description. I put a smaller end cap rubber bullet but pass throw the other side of the end of the drainage. On the information you mention the package you show say assortments bypass caps. Witch one (diameter) on your knowledge is the one you used to insert on the hole of the evaporator so I can do the same and it was easy to insert and to pull the hanger out ? Thanks for everything.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    I used a 3/8 inch end cap. At that size it was hard to get it into the oem hole. It was bigger than the hole diameter.

    I liked that for exactly what happend to you, I didn't want it to go all the way through. I wanted to have the option to pull it back out if it didn't work.
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply... So I'll try to insert the 3/8 one on a tip manner to experiment as you did. Another thing did you cut the carpet side of the driver or did you take that hole carpet apart (the big one piece) to drive the car and see if the mod hold dry?
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I actually cut the carpet it was just too cumbersome having it in the way or peeled back. So, under the seat, where the floor vent comes up... you can just snip that little 10-12 inch section there... and then the 6-8in section going to the center console. That way, when the front carpet goes in, it will still be bolted down by the seat and the cut is very small where visible.

    Here's where I cut...in photo form...
    image

    Keep in mind, I took out the one screw in the center console to release the plastic there a little more. Once the carpet was out, I took out the styrofoam and floor vent pieces. There are also foam pieces behind the brake pedal that can come out too. The main firewall foam however, you can't take out. It goes up way to high. You'll see what I mean when the carpet is completely out. That firewall foam goes all the way behind the dash, to the windshield as one large piece. Mine was very wet at the bottom of that large piece. The only way I could dry it out was with the shammy/cloth to absorb the water... the foam just soaked it up like a sponge. Then I came back with a hair dryer (heat gun too much..) to dry it out more... Here in SC it's been in the 100* range too... so cracking the windows at that heat also helps dry out the floor...
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    Men I think that finally nail this problem. I insert the 3/8 end-cap on the main drain and the water as force to go to the new drain... and men it feel nice to have that water out were it belongs. Your help is priceless to me and have a new friend on Riverview FL . I will report on the events prior the road test.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    Fantastic.

    I've been happy with ours. Today I sat in a parking lot for 20 minutes waiting on my wife. That was a great test... still flowing great.

    So, tonight I'll put the front carpet piece back in. Glad to hear it's repeatable... on at least two Mitsu's...
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    Just put the carpet back in.
    I checked everywhere, all dry. Working as planned.

    Now that it's been in for a bit... time to recap.

    If I had to start all over. I would
    - Just drill the hole and plug from the inside at the start. Saves time...
    - Instead of using just one long tube for the new drain. Get two pieces and form a 90* right angle down to new drain hole location. I think the right angle would make putting back the carpet easier...and allows you to put the new floor hole back further than I did... that way there is more clearance for the carpet. I had to trim the carpet just bit to allow for the tube.

    That's it... I'm signing off. I'll peak if more posts come... have fun.. JH
  • britishcupcakebritishcupcake Member Posts: 2
    This forum seems very helpful but im having a hard time understanding some stuff.

    My husband recently got me a 2004 mitsubishi endeavor and after a couple of days i noticed the bottom of my pants were always wet after driving. I noticed the drivers side floor was soaked and googled it and came across loads of forums saying how expensive it is to get it fixed. My husband would like to fix it and we just tried checking it out but are totally confused.

    I see the pictures where there has been a hole drilled and a new line has been put in but where does it go from and to?

    Can someone please do a step by step on how to do it? I would really appreciate it.

    Thank you
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    Hi , I'm elnene92003 and john's apprentice here. I manage to do EVERYTHING that john and the pics he took to the same endeavor that my wife have. If your husband study every pic is a no error procedure . Just tell him (your husband) to pull out all the front carpet till the driver sit ( have to remove the sit). Then the hole foam thing that is on the floor board. Drill a hole on the evap pan and place a rubber end-cap (3/8) and insert to the OEM drain hole of the evap with a metal rod (clothing rod) then go to a HOME DEPOT and buy a hose and fitting to seal the hole you drill on the evap. Then drill a hole to the floor vertical to the hole you drill on the evap and I seal that with bathroom silicone beacuse I dill it to fit perfect with no air or heat entry to the driving area and that's IT. Have been waterless on my driver floor for over a month and a half . The dealer quote me an $650 fix plus tax that they still waiting for me by now !!!!!! Thanks to John.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I think the last two pages of this discussion really detail the steps pretty well. elnene has now put it into a step by step thread, I appreciate that. ;)

    I would say the order is this:
    (prep work)
    Disconnect battery, remove the driver's seat. Remove the carpet from the drivers's side. You might be able to avoid this but I don't see how. Removing the seat is pretty easy, 4 bolts and 3 seat electrical connectors.
    image
    I cut the carpet into two sections, a front and back where those lines are.
    I would suggest doing this.

    1) Drill the hole and clean out any debris. Follow this PDF
    TSB 09-55-002

    2) Do not seal up the hole as the TSB says to do.

    3) Part's you'll need.
    Go to HomeDepot/Lowes, get 3/8 inch plastic/PVC/Viynal Tube
    3/8 in tube example

    Get a grommet (x2) for the tube. Grommet for Tube

    Get the bypass cap that will seal the original OEM Hole
    ByPass Cap Assortment, 3/8 cap works well

    4) now that you have all the parts. Get coat hanger, insert the cap.
    image

    5) now that the hole from Mitsu factory is closed. Insert your grommet on the A/C condenser box, aka the some box you have the hole drilled into...
    image

    6) Now, you need to pick the bottom part of the drain, aka where the tube will go though the Mitsu's floor to drain. I have a 2WD endeavor. So my center "hump" that runs to the rear wheels was empty of any drive train components. That's where I drilled my bottom hole of the tube to exit the car. This picture shows where I drilled the bottom exit hole:
    image

    7) Insert your grommets into the holes and then insert the tube into each. Now, this is where you can get creative if you want. You could change up the type of tube... use one that isn't strait and flexible. You could use a hard PVC that does a 90* bend and goes strait down to the floor. I didn't do that b/c I wasn't sure this was going to work. ;)

    8) Optional: you could now seal the tube to grommet connection with silicone caulk. I didn't... but you could.

    9) That's about it. Done...

    At this point I left the carpet out. I put my seat back in with no carpet, none of the floor parts in place...and drove it for a week just to see if it would leak again. It hasn't leaked at all since and it's dumping a ton of water out of the A/C condenser box... which is great! I've done a trip to Atlanta (3hrs) and a couple of 2 hour round trips...it's doing well.

    I would really suggest driving it around without the floor in for a bit. Only b/c there is most likely water all under your carpets...it flowed into the back of our endeavor. So, when I would brake all the water that had made it to the back came flooding to the front driver's footwell. The "sloshing" noise that people say they hear. I don't think it's from the A/C or dahs area. In my case it was the water flowing from the back to the front when pressed the brakes hard or took a sharp turn.
  • britishcupcakebritishcupcake Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    Thank you so much. Im going to show my husband this and hopefully he can do it now. When we looked at it all last weekend i pulled the carpet up with the seat still in and lifted the foam as much as i could and couldnt believe how much water was under there. I dried up as much of it as i could and left the doors open all day to let it dry out as it was starting to stink. I have left the AC off since then and the carpet seems to be dry for now. Hoepfully i can get it fixed soon.

    Thanks for your help!
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    What have you accomplish on the issue of the water on the inside of the endeavor ..... give an update?
  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Member Posts: 4
    edited September 2011
    Nice job. I have same MITSUBISHI AC DRAIN TUBE issue on an 04 endeavor. I was able to thread a 3ft 1/4" tube all the way through the drain into the engine compartment. I put 1/8" npt hose barb on the 1/4 hose inside of the drain pan. this expands the end of the tube to around 5/16". which i suspect is the drain hole diamter as the 1/4" OD tube can go all the way throgh. I also put a small bead of tank putty around the end of the hose barb. This could work but I suspect that all the effort could be wasted and may end up just drilling the hole in the floor. I will let you know how it works.
  • elnene92003elnene92003 Member Posts: 9
    If you can put some picture of the final product to see your work ....... Thanks
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