Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mitsubishi Endeavor Maintenance and Repair

1678911

Comments

  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Member Posts: 4
    After several false starts I have finally finished. This is what I did:

    1... Threaded 4' of 1/4 OD polyethylene tubing over stiff coat hanger

    2... Put a rounded loop on end of the cpat hanger that is going throught the hole.

    3... Threaded the 75% of the length of coat hanger and tube through the hole and into the engine compartment. This takes about 5 minutes of effort as you have pull the assembly back and curve it slightly as it goes in. What you want it the hose/hanger to have slight upward bend as it comes through the hole into the engine compartment.

    (ATTENTION: IT CAN GO ALL THE WAY IN AND NOT COME OUT ON IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THIS IS A RESULT OF IT FOLLOWING THE INTERNAL FRAME, JUST TRY AGAIN WITH DIFFERENT BEND)

    4... go under the car and gentley ucrimp the loop in the running end of the coat hanger

    5... go back into driver side foot well and gentley pull the coat hanger through the tube, leaving tube inplace

    6... insert 1/8" OD hose barb to hose barb coupling into the end of the hose that pulled the coat hanger through

    7... get your epoxy putty that is used for radiator repair and cut off a pinky finger tip size lump and mix it till it gets gray. roll it out into a littel putty snake and wrap around the end of the tube where it connects to the hose barb

    8... push the whole assembly into the evap drain pan, make sure to take very special care not to let the putty come off the hose barb

    9... press the hose/barb/putty assembly into the evap drain hole.

    10... go under car and pull the hose gently from where it exits the hole in the engine compartment fire wall. make sure to pull only lightly so that you can feel it seat in the drain pan

    11... go back to driver side foot well and insert fiber into drain pan and push assembly into the drain hole pay special attention to make sure the epoxy putty seats all around the sides of the hose barb while making sure the actualy hole that water will drain into stays free of putty.

    12... zip tie the hose to keep it away from the engine and heat

    13.. let sit for 2 hours and test...

    will post picture when i figure out how to on this website... if I had time to do one thing different it would be to use a heat resistant tubing, like something you would find in an automobile store... hopefully in this case my haste didnt make waste">
  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Member Posts: 4
    edited October 2011
    I posted a video of the fix on YOUTUBE, I hope this helps.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-wTJQDol-U
  • u_an_what_armyu_an_what_army Member Posts: 4
    Sorry here is the correct link.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4NT0o-fJGI
  • marchigirlmarchigirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a mitsubishi endeavor 2006. 95,000 miles. the brake light came on for no reason and my brakes are not making any noises and appear to be working just fine. has this happened to anyone else? i also have the tire pressure light and service engine soon light that go on and off intermittently. is the brake light one of those issues as well?
  • ncattncatt Member Posts: 3
    Had to have the front end driver side wheel bearing done as well - another major expense - and still the wheel sensor light intermittitly flashing - 106,000km now on this 2005 model
  • ncattncatt Member Posts: 3
    Brake light doesn't have anything to do with other lights on. Get the sensor light fixed fast before your warranty runs out - they are going to do a diagnositic test on it and say nothing wrong - and it will be ok for a few days (off) and you will think all ok - but it will go on again - This happened to me for over 2 years! so make sure you get them to do it now - I'm sure this is a glitch that is occuring alot - and they don't want to spend the $ to recall to fix these.
  • maxx21maxx21 Member Posts: 1
    I recently got my 04 Endeavor LS about 2 weeks ago, "new to me" at 127K and it runs like new, I kid you not, so the previous owners took wonderful care of it. I plan to trade the care in later on, however, I'm not here to talk about that.

    1) I accidentally changed to Neutral when I was going up hill and didn't realize this until I pressed on the gas... and I think my car feels differently now. Any fix to this? Like, when I got the car, I wouldn't have to press much on the gas and the car would go? I don't know if that makes any sense.

    2) Do icons for P, R, D, N, +, - light up around the auto-clutch? Because it doesn't on mine?

    Thank You :confuse:
  • waltncwaltnc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Endeavor that I am having the same water leaking problem with that many others have described. I live in Raleigh,NC and would be interested in talking with someone from this area that could steer me toward some help in getting the problem resolved.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    I have a Mitsubishi endeavor limited 4dr, recently the sunroof leaks water when i go thru the car wash and when it rains. I opened the sunroof and looked around and cleared any debris from the areas. I'm female and short but want to know what can be done. I was told by a friend that the sunroof has drainage ducts? if so where help .
    much thanks
  • jwiz1jwiz1 Member Posts: 8
    I had the same thing happen this summer. Got a bit damp in a car wash. The problem was that an adjusting screw for the sunroof mechanism came loose and was creating a small opening in rubber gasket around the sunroof when the sunroff was closed. A few turns of a screw driver and it was fixed.
  • shuvlit73shuvlit73 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 XLS AWD...my lower radiator hose has a small leak. The hose is not available in the parts store. What other mitsubishi model & year uses the same hose
  • jay195jay195 Member Posts: 2
    the same thing happened to us. what did you do?
  • jay195jay195 Member Posts: 2
    Sam e with us. How do we join the law suit?
  • hans1980hans1980 Member Posts: 3
    Hi there, I'm having the same problem and can't seem to find a solution, I'd really appreciate if you tell me how did you get it fixed, I'm, really hoping it's not a computer issue or something complicated, but as you say the fuses seem to be OK. PLEASE talk to us!!
  • hans1980hans1980 Member Posts: 3
    Hi there, where you able to fix your problem?? I'm also suffering with the same thing. Thanx for your help!
  • hans1980hans1980 Member Posts: 3
    Hi there, as a couple of other endeavor owner that posted here I just had their same problem, suddenly my audio system, interior lights and automatic key stopped working all at the same time and on my LCD display it showed the message "communication error", I started looking for an answer on the internet and came across this forum and a few others, some people said that this was and ECU failure (one of the computers) and that really got me a little scared trying to figure out how much it would cost me to replace it. I spent a couple of months worrying and looking for an answer, the specialists told me that I should bring my car for a $150 bucks scanning to know exactly what it was, anyways long story short I found another website where a Chrysler owner had the exact same problems as I did and he said that he got it fixed very easily, this is what happened:

    *Check your electrical system fuses, you'll find them in under the hood next to the battery where the computer (ECU) is located, there you'll see 2 fuses that are isolated by a yellow "jacket" (they're the IOD fuses, 10A and 15A) that you'll have to pull up about 1/4 inch, then using a little screwdriver or a small knife open the little plastic that holds both of the fuses and pull the fuse up. To put them back in use the same method by opening the little tabs and pushing the fuse down. I had to replace the blue 15A fuse that controls the interior lights since it was blown and everything went back to work again perfectly. I have to mention that I checked every fuse in the driver's compartment the minute the problem occurred and got really frustrated to find nothing wrong in there, it wasn't until last night that I found out that those two other fuses even existed!! I never even tried to take a look at them since it seemed really hard to reach in. Anyways, I'm really glad that it was just a blown fuse and not a very expensive new ECU.

    I hope this helps someone else out there and you can save money as I did by just paying $5 bucks for a case of new fuses!
  • iworkwoodiworkwood Member Posts: 2
    I hear noises at the front whell. The bolt or the hole of the caliper have anormal wearing.what can I do?
  • miami65miami65 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2004 Endeavor LS with 45,000 miles on it.....from a dealer. On my test drive at 40 MPH there was a slight "shutter". The best way to describe it is like when you run over the little reflectors in the middle of the road and you tell your passengers you are driving my braile.

    Anyway, the dealer fixed it, reassured me that it was NOT the transmission. He told me that they called a Mitsubishi dealer (I purchased from a Chevrolet dealer) and the mechanic immediately told the Chevy's dealer mechanic what to check. They did...problem gone. Five days have come and gone and I have not had another problem. I did purchase an after market warranty....2 years/24k miles for a little added comfort. What I would really like to know is if anyone here has experienced this problem and if so, can you explain it to me in english? :)
  • josh99216josh99216 Member Posts: 9
    I had an 04 XLS with a similar problem. I took mine into Les scwabb where they found that the nut of the bolt to the "nuckle" behind the drivers wheel was missing and the bolt was sliding out. I purchased a locking nut from a nuts and bolts store and fixed it myself. Drove it another year without a problem then sold it. Have your tires checked. Mine did this for a while before I took it in and it threw my alignment way off and wore the tires unevenly so I had to purchase all new tires for the car....
  • miami65miami65 Member Posts: 2
    Tires were the first thing I thought. There are 4 brand new tires on it. Again, the salesman tried to, and did....convince me that it was a simple fix and I wouldn't have another problem with it.

    I guess I should just "let it go" and hope that the problem doesn't come up again.

    Thanks for the suggestion though!!!!!!
  • esbalutaesbaluta Member Posts: 2
    We are experiencing a noise when the vehicle has become warm, and are driving around 70 mph. It sounds like a whining sound, almost like a balloon losing air slowly. It also seems to only take place when applying gas. We took it in to a mechanic but they could not find any problem. Has anybody else had this problem? What is it? Not sure if related- but we have had the "Service Engine Soon" light come one- and I checked it with my handy code reader and it stated "Too Lean." Seen this a couple of times; the light goes away, but have seen this on longer trips where the vehicle is driven for longer periods of time. Timing belt? Fuel pump? Water pump? Belt? Drive train? This one has me totally stumped.

    Also- the power window on the driver's side will not open the rear right window.. but it will close it...
    One other item- the external rear light seems to crack all the time- I think it has something to do with the position of the rear window washer sprayer (comes through the light) and sunlight- the plastic expands and it cracks. We have about 90K miles on it- but have had a great experience overall. Would like to fix whatver the noise is because it does worry us (we use this car often and have 2 small kids).
    I'm guessing most owners of this SUV have or are having these problems...
    Any Mitsubishi mechanics reading this??? Please help!
  • esbalutaesbaluta Member Posts: 2
    Please read my post (#467)- is this the same thing you had????
  • jsbondjsbond Member Posts: 1
    My car is the same as you all, it has lost its clear coat and and looks terrible. I am amazed that you all have had the same problems because I thought that it was something that I didn't do, or did. Like when it went to Vermont for Christmas and it was 18 below at night.
  • kjmoore1963kjmoore1963 Member Posts: 2
    I'm also having this issue in my 2006 Endeavor. I thought I would try running the new hose through to the engine compartment before drilling a hole through the floorboard. How is that solution holding up?

    (Can you provide me with pictures/detail on how you sealed the hose on the inside of the evaporator box?)
  • minninmominninmo Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem with my 2004 Endeavor. The mechanic said it was the torque converter..that it sometimes gets a coating or "varnish" formed on it. He corrected it by changing the transmission fluid..( if it had just been changed, he wouldn't have done that) and putting in an additive that Ford makes since they had lots of problems with this happening at some point. He said it might take a few days for the shuddering to disappear but I drove away and never felt it again. That was a month ago.
  • kjmoore1963kjmoore1963 Member Posts: 2
    For the record, after 1.5 days of trial and error I was finally able to get the new hose through and sealed on the inside and all is good. I had a really hard time getting a seal around the hose to block off water from the old route and force it through the new hose. But finally found the right size hose and used the tapered tip from a silicone adhesive tube to flare it out, then cut the tip at the right length and pushed it all into the evaporator pan drain with a little plumbers goop to help seal it. Works like a charm! Whew. Glad to get this one behind me.
  • krayzi_mikekrayzi_mike Member Posts: 1
    Driver side rear quarter panel. Air pressures caused by chassis movement on uneven road surfaces causes it to flap and tap sounding like a rattle. Only way to get rid of this problem is to remove the Endeavor's rear cargo trim on the drivers side which (unfortunately) is one-piece so you must remove the entire trim. Thankfully, it's the side away from the subwoofer (the subwoofer side is 3x harder to remove with many more small pieces to deal with). Driver's side cargo wall trim only consists of the obvious screws (and I believe one bolt) that you see, and about 8 clips that hold it down.
  • rosalie1963rosalie1963 Member Posts: 1
    2004 XLS Endeavor has begun opening the back end of the sunroof (which you can't do with the switch) on its own. Sounds crazy I know, but it appears as though there is some kind of electrical glitch that is occurring that causes the sunroof to move forward enough to raise the back end. Of course it happened again today while in the store and it began raining. I already had some of the same roof leaking problems when going through the car wash, but this one is new. No one is messing with the switch and the car is garage kept. Any one have problems with this...yet? Thanks
  • memo3memo3 Member Posts: 1
    I just did what you said and IT WORKED!! thanks a lot man, you are a genius
  • waltj1waltj1 Member Posts: 2
    With the help of the other forums, I threaded a coat hanger through the drilled hole in the HVAC case and out to the engine compartment. I then put a 3/8 inch copper tube (about 4 inches long) spread some adhesive on the end and pushed it into the drain line using the coat hanger as a guide.
    Let the adhesive dry before running your AC.
    The copper tube should be bent a bit to make the turn past the fire wall and also install a 90 degree fitting to guide the water down. Keep the tube higher at the point where it is inserted into the drain so no water will run up the side of the tube and back inside.

    I did this about 5 months ago and it still works fine.
  • waltj1waltj1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Endeavor, and it developed a noise which sounds like a tensioner pulley. However after changing it the noise is still there. The interesting thing is that the noise is only there for about 10 minutes after you start the engine in the morning and then the noise is gone.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    That's great to hear and with cooper tubing.

    I'm still holding fine with my plastic deal and the o-rings. Since the humidity here i always around 98-100% it makes some nice puddles. ;)
  • cocoablakecocoablake Member Posts: 1
    My 04 Mitsubishi Endeavor looks like it should be in a junk yard. I bought it new, it has 137,000 miles and has been peeling for the past 2 yrs. I called Mitsubishi about it and they had me take it to one of their dealerships with a body shop. They said if their body shop said it was a defect they would see what they could do to fix the issue. So last fall I took it there and they said in writing it was definitely a defect, too thin a clear coat and it was maybe only worth a 1/4 of it's value due to the paint and how it looks. They sent their report in and I've called Mitsubishi and can't get anyone to answer my calls now. Anyone else gone through this and had any success?
  • bobcat57bobcat57 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the great detail. Just drilled my hole in evap drain tonight and had a ton of water come out. Will install bypass hose tomorrow.

    Have a 2007 AWD, so not sure of best place to drill hole in floorboard. Looking for suggestions.

    JJ
  • bobcat57bobcat57 Member Posts: 2
    It's behind the glove box which is removed by taking out 4 screws.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Member Posts: 14
    I went for the transmission hump. So not really the floorboard/floorpan. Since I only had a 2WD it seemed to make sense as it was wide open.
  • concreteboyconcreteboy Member Posts: 4
  • tlchandlertlchandler Member Posts: 2
  • iworkwoodiworkwood Member Posts: 2
    I had that problem.I solved it making 2 small "surco" (I dont know the translation) on the bolt and put a O-ring on each one.
  • mouricecheeksmouricecheeks Member Posts: 1
    Just fixed a 03 Endeavor that had this problem. The exhaust flange behind bank 2 converter had broke where the final converter and rest of the exhaust system connects to. I was able to remove the bolts and place the flange back in place and weld it. sounds much better now.
  • cinchapcinchap Member Posts: 2
    We just started having the same issue...any answers to help us?
  • cinchapcinchap Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same issue. No answers after 4 weeks!
  • paul189paul189 Member Posts: 5
    would you mind elaborating on the issue? I dont see what your are referring to as the issue. sorry.
  • paul189paul189 Member Posts: 5
    seems like I had a similar experience a while back and the issue was resolved by replacing the mass air flow sensor. of note, i have a car md and use it to get the error codes when the check engine light is lit. doing this helps to narrow the search and eliminate some of the needless searches and/or repairs. BTW, i got my mass airflow sensor from a local junkyard for $50 as compared to $250 and a multi-day wait.
  • lgonza1454lgonza1454 Member Posts: 1
    I may be the ignition coil, change the ignition coil on 36 and it should smooth out. I had the same problem with misfire in chamber #3. changed the ignition coil and it is running like new. Good look on it. Easy fix you can do it yourself.

    Firing ignition sequence as follows

    1 3 5

    2 4 6

    the coils 1,3,5 are in the back of manifold you can not see those 2,4,6 are right in front from left 2, 4, 6 to right in the front on engine. #6 is on your left above the motor oil cap. change that one and all is good trust me. that should correct misfire chamber #6 also disconnect the battery and reboot cars computer so that it can acknowledge new ignition coil. if not it will continue to misfire.
  • sjamesonsjameson Member Posts: 1
    i get good heat out pass side on all setting but cold out drivers side on all setting 2004 endeavor
  • forestergumpforestergump Member Posts: 119
  • idriss69idriss69 Member Posts: 1
    my key controler of my 2005 mitsubishi endeavor xls only opens the doors and closes but my alarm does not sound at all.My horn is working fine and the light all light blinks when i push the lack or unlack button.A thief has broken in to my car already i despretly need help.I tried to reprogram but there is no change.
  • ambberellaambberella Member Posts: 1
    Literally everything you listed is happening to me.. I just bought it from the first owner and he had used some compound to cover all of the roof and the hood... and when I picked it up it was raining sooo of coarse I didn't see the marks. It just started to shift from park to drive it doesn't wanna go into gear. It will go but it will stutter to go.. I am having a hard time with the manufacturer to get recall info on the tranny and power train. I only have 89K miles on the car and it is like I have 190K... Has anyone had any luck and or had the tranny issue like this repaired?
  • bellaboo2bellaboo2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Did you ever find a solution to your problem? I am having all the same issues with my 04 endeavor.
Sign In or Register to comment.