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1... Threaded 4' of 1/4 OD polyethylene tubing over stiff coat hanger
2... Put a rounded loop on end of the cpat hanger that is going throught the hole.
3... Threaded the 75% of the length of coat hanger and tube through the hole and into the engine compartment. This takes about 5 minutes of effort as you have pull the assembly back and curve it slightly as it goes in. What you want it the hose/hanger to have slight upward bend as it comes through the hole into the engine compartment.
(ATTENTION: IT CAN GO ALL THE WAY IN AND NOT COME OUT ON IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THIS IS A RESULT OF IT FOLLOWING THE INTERNAL FRAME, JUST TRY AGAIN WITH DIFFERENT BEND)
4... go under the car and gentley ucrimp the loop in the running end of the coat hanger
5... go back into driver side foot well and gentley pull the coat hanger through the tube, leaving tube inplace
6... insert 1/8" OD hose barb to hose barb coupling into the end of the hose that pulled the coat hanger through
7... get your epoxy putty that is used for radiator repair and cut off a pinky finger tip size lump and mix it till it gets gray. roll it out into a littel putty snake and wrap around the end of the tube where it connects to the hose barb
8... push the whole assembly into the evap drain pan, make sure to take very special care not to let the putty come off the hose barb
9... press the hose/barb/putty assembly into the evap drain hole.
10... go under car and pull the hose gently from where it exits the hole in the engine compartment fire wall. make sure to pull only lightly so that you can feel it seat in the drain pan
11... go back to driver side foot well and insert fiber into drain pan and push assembly into the drain hole pay special attention to make sure the epoxy putty seats all around the sides of the hose barb while making sure the actualy hole that water will drain into stays free of putty.
12... zip tie the hose to keep it away from the engine and heat
13.. let sit for 2 hours and test...
will post picture when i figure out how to on this website... if I had time to do one thing different it would be to use a heat resistant tubing, like something you would find in an automobile store... hopefully in this case my haste didnt make waste">
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-wTJQDol-U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4NT0o-fJGI
1) I accidentally changed to Neutral when I was going up hill and didn't realize this until I pressed on the gas... and I think my car feels differently now. Any fix to this? Like, when I got the car, I wouldn't have to press much on the gas and the car would go? I don't know if that makes any sense.
2) Do icons for P, R, D, N, +, - light up around the auto-clutch? Because it doesn't on mine?
Thank You :confuse:
much thanks
*Check your electrical system fuses, you'll find them in under the hood next to the battery where the computer (ECU) is located, there you'll see 2 fuses that are isolated by a yellow "jacket" (they're the IOD fuses, 10A and 15A) that you'll have to pull up about 1/4 inch, then using a little screwdriver or a small knife open the little plastic that holds both of the fuses and pull the fuse up. To put them back in use the same method by opening the little tabs and pushing the fuse down. I had to replace the blue 15A fuse that controls the interior lights since it was blown and everything went back to work again perfectly. I have to mention that I checked every fuse in the driver's compartment the minute the problem occurred and got really frustrated to find nothing wrong in there, it wasn't until last night that I found out that those two other fuses even existed!! I never even tried to take a look at them since it seemed really hard to reach in. Anyways, I'm really glad that it was just a blown fuse and not a very expensive new ECU.
I hope this helps someone else out there and you can save money as I did by just paying $5 bucks for a case of new fuses!
Anyway, the dealer fixed it, reassured me that it was NOT the transmission. He told me that they called a Mitsubishi dealer (I purchased from a Chevrolet dealer) and the mechanic immediately told the Chevy's dealer mechanic what to check. They did...problem gone. Five days have come and gone and I have not had another problem. I did purchase an after market warranty....2 years/24k miles for a little added comfort. What I would really like to know is if anyone here has experienced this problem and if so, can you explain it to me in english?
I guess I should just "let it go" and hope that the problem doesn't come up again.
Thanks for the suggestion though!!!!!!
Also- the power window on the driver's side will not open the rear right window.. but it will close it...
One other item- the external rear light seems to crack all the time- I think it has something to do with the position of the rear window washer sprayer (comes through the light) and sunlight- the plastic expands and it cracks. We have about 90K miles on it- but have had a great experience overall. Would like to fix whatver the noise is because it does worry us (we use this car often and have 2 small kids).
I'm guessing most owners of this SUV have or are having these problems...
Any Mitsubishi mechanics reading this??? Please help!
(Can you provide me with pictures/detail on how you sealed the hose on the inside of the evaporator box?)
Let the adhesive dry before running your AC.
The copper tube should be bent a bit to make the turn past the fire wall and also install a 90 degree fitting to guide the water down. Keep the tube higher at the point where it is inserted into the drain so no water will run up the side of the tube and back inside.
I did this about 5 months ago and it still works fine.
I'm still holding fine with my plastic deal and the o-rings. Since the humidity here i always around 98-100% it makes some nice puddles.
Have a 2007 AWD, so not sure of best place to drill hole in floorboard. Looking for suggestions.
JJ
Firing ignition sequence as follows
1 3 5
2 4 6
the coils 1,3,5 are in the back of manifold you can not see those 2,4,6 are right in front from left 2, 4, 6 to right in the front on engine. #6 is on your left above the motor oil cap. change that one and all is good trust me. that should correct misfire chamber #6 also disconnect the battery and reboot cars computer so that it can acknowledge new ignition coil. if not it will continue to misfire.