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Jeep Wrangler Modifications

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  • jeep_guyjeep_guy Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a YJ wrangler with a 318 V8 dropped in about 100K on it. That engine will get a better fuel mileage on the jeep than it would on the Dodge Dakota right? It just seems like the engine would be pushing a lot less. Some help.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Jeeps are not as light as ya think. :) Also, if you offroad, have bigger tires, and weight-adding features like armor, winch, etc, it may not be a great as you think.

    That said, MOST people I know who have done a V8 swap will see a bit of an MPG increase. But don't let that be the basis for purchasing it. :)

    -Paul
  • we2we2 Member Posts: 2
    Are there any modifications that can be done to an older jeep wrangler (2003 to 2006) models that would increase towing to 5,000#? Engine work? Transmission coolers? Shocks? Frame? Transmission exchange? Other?

    If able to do this any idea of the total cost involved to modify? What specific models should I look to purchase to make this work best?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Are there any modifications that can be done to an older jeep wrangler (2003 to 2006) models that would increase towing to 5,000#?

    A 4.0 automatic Wrangler is quite capable of towing 5Klbs and I've done it myself many times.
    However, when I've done so it's been on relatively flat dry roads with efficient trailer brakes.
    The limitations on the Wrangler are both legal (3Klbs is the recommended max), and physical (it's a very short wheelbase vehicle which makes it easy for a trailer to push it around).

    The only modification required besides a class III trailer hitch and the appropriate wiring, is to install a large transmission cooler.

    image

    I use this one, a stacked plate B&M (#BMM-70266) which is readily available from many places including Amazon.com for around $80.

    Other than that, make sure the brakes, steering, and cooling system are all 100%.
    Don't expect it to tow like a Ford F350, don't expect to keep up with a fast traffic flow, don't hit an off-ramp at 60mph.......... in fact don't hit anything, as the legal implications of an overweight trailer could be serious.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Probably the biggest issues is the short wheelbase. If you're towing something that heavy, you do run the risk of the tail wagging the dog...

    -Paul
  • wolfmaniiwolfmanii Member Posts: 10
    I am going to get a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.
    and I will do some suspension lift on it.

    I prefer manual transmission but it seems almost
    all wranglers around my area are automatic. My question is, will automatic transmission cause
    much trouble to suspension lift DIY compared to Manual one?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    No. Just have to be careful if you order new skids. Some are for manuals while there is a different part number for automatics.

    Keep in mind, the driveshafts go to the axles from the transfer case, NOT the transmission itself. And the t-case is the same for auto vs manual.

    -Paul
  • wolfmaniiwolfmanii Member Posts: 10
    Planning to add MOPAR speed control (cruise control) to my new Wrangler.

    The thing that I am not sure are:

    1. will this DIY project void the warranty on my jeep
    2. the installation deals with removing the steering wheel where the
    air bag is located. I dound a way to disable the SRS airbag. After that, will this be safe to do?

    Recommendations are welcome.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    First off, try going with new lens housings and H4 bulbs. I have IPF housings and IPF Fatboy bulbs and they light things up VERY WELL. I did NOT have to upgrade the wiring harness, but that is also an option. I got mine from www.dpgoffroad.com out of Wichita, KS.

    Secondly, you can aim your fogs out to either side a bit to light up the side a bit better. That can be done for free and help show you the glowing deer eyes. But you can also upgrade the fog lighting as well to something a bit brighter. Hella, KC, etc make nice lights you could use.

    Windshield or light bar lights are ILLEGAL to use on the road so I can't advise how to do that but I know there is a spade in one of the relays that can be bent back to do it. I have aftermarket fog lights and they are not wired into the PDC and I can run fogs and highs at the same time and haven't had to worry about the PDC setup.

    I DO have windshield lights and lights on a lightbar over my winch (though they're shattered currently due to an offroading oopsie). The windshield lights are aimed straight ahead, but I can turn them outwards when needed.

    There are pencil beam lights for long range and there are other beam patterns available depending on your need. Check out Hella or KC's websites for more information on what beam pattern works best for your needs.

    -Paul
  • mgarviemgarvie Member Posts: 17
    I was looking at the IPF lights this morning and wondered how well they work. With all the letters and numbers on bulbs these days I didn't know what was what. I think I'll start with replacing the headlights first and see how that works out. But wow, them Fat Boy bulbs cost some bucks.

    As for the fog lights, I've read that one of the tabs on the relay can be removed to keep the lights on. Now to figure which one.

    I'm still thinking about the windshield lights. Even though they may be illegal, so are having your high beams on with on coming traffic. Since I would be using them on back roads, maybe no one will notice.

    Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Generally you're okay onroad if you keep the covers on the windshield lights. It has the benefit of protecting from road debris too.

    To do this:
    1. Pull the fog relay, bend this pin.
    2. Replace relay.

    image

    IPF isn't cheap but it IS a nice setup. I got mine as mentioned before from Dirk at DPGoffroad.com and the price with the housing and bulbs really wasn't too bad at all. What's good night illumination worth to you? To me, it is about safety.

    I've occasionally hit my high beams with my fogs, my front driving lights, AND my windshield lights. There is NO mistaking I'm on the way! :)

    image

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Tried to shrink the image... messed up. Can a mod delete 2 of those posts and fix the bottom image so it isn't too wide?

    -Paul
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We can't edit your posts (but got the other two). Looks like you figured it out anyway.

    Your first pic isn't showing up for me though - looks like a registration issue.
  • mgarviemgarvie Member Posts: 17
    I did get the fog lights to come on anytime. Pulled out the relay and jumped the number 3 and 4 slots with a wire. Also ordered the new replacement lenses and bulbs to try before I get the driving lights. Now I was thinking of finding a way to keep the low beams on when I hit the high beams. Think this will burn a fuse or fry a wire over an extended time?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Now I was thinking of finding a way to keep the low beams on when I hit the high beams. Think this will burn a fuse or fry a wire over an extended time?

    Yes.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    The lamp design of the TJ prevents low and high at the same time. They are not different bulbs.

    I think you'll find the new lights with H4 bulbs a great improvement. There is also a shield you can remove on the fog lights, but it actually does more harm than good.

    Personally, if you REALLY need side lighting, I'd swap the OEM fogs for a good set of Hella's or KC's that have a specific wide/low pattern to handle that duty. With that, you'll get great coverage. With windshield lights, I'm finding that it does block a bit of my vision a bit in traffic and depending on the model of housing, you may get a ring around them at night that YOU can see as the driver, which actually hampers your vision.

    if you decide you want to ditch the OEM fogs, let me know. I could put them to use for a project.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The lamp design of the TJ prevents low and high at the same time. They are not different bulbs.

    In the OE sealed beam unit the high and low beams use separate filaments with a common ground.
    Using a relay it wouldn't be hard to arrange for power to arrive at both high and low together when the high beam was selected.........just not a good idea.

    In regard to lighting in general, if you need long range illumination it's because you're going fast enough to require seeing that far ahead, and even if excellent close range side lighting has been added it will only aid peripheral vision, so you may see the leaping deer a little better just before you hit it, but you will have been going too fast to avoid it anyway. :sick:
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Didn't know that about the lights, mac. Thanks!

    I agree with what you're saying there.

    I have decided to make some configuration changes on my lighting. My OEM fogs are coming off. I'm moving my Hella 500's (fog pattern) from the windshield to the bumper. Their light glare makes them unusable at night for me, but turned down/out a bit, they'll be ideal for fog, even only being 55W.

    I'm going to go IPF for my new lighting. I'm getting some 968's with stone/glare guards for the windshield. They are a driving pattern and can run up to 110W bulbs (which they come with). I'm putting a second set on my light hoop over my winch once I get that remounted and reinforced. They'll be set up tight enough to not move when driving, but I'll be able to move them to aim them up a bit for when I'm on the darker trails. Since I can see them from the driver's seat, they may have stone guards too. I'll just have to see how they go once mounted.

    I'll be posting a writeup with my current setup so you'll be able to see the differences.

    They come with their own wiring harness, but I'm going to verify the harness can handle the 110W lighting I plan on using.

    -Paul
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Yesterday the rubi rails were replaced with LoD installed by ScreaminLizard.
  • mgarviemgarvie Member Posts: 17
    The murderous, rampaging Bambi took out the side of my TJ this month! Just got it back from the shop and figured some driving lights might increase the odds of less damage when her big brother finds out and comes looking for me. I'm going to mount some KC Daylighters to my windshield and was looking for some clearer instructions and diagrams for the install than I've found so far. Maybe a few tips or warnings before I start. I was looking for the following setup on the switch:

    Auto ----- comes on with the high beams
    Off
    On ------ on whenever I want them alone (never know)

    Basically trying to verify what I think I need to do. A little of that "measure twice cut once" thing.

    Thanks,
    Marc
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    First, check legality of windshield light operation in your area. May be illegal.

    Secondly, if you are concerned about Bambi-hits, fogs would give you wider light dispersion than fogs. Windshield lights are general pencil or narrow beams for further projection on the trails.

    The trick about windshield lights is getting the wiring into the cab. I've seen wires routed under the cowl into the engine bay then in. I've seen wires just stuck between the door and tub.. There are a lot of ways to do it. Most harnesses that come with lights are too long for that location, so I ran my own.

    As far as tips, check for lights that do NOT have the glass around the outer edge (ie the back cover/housings enclose the lights). You'll have glare if you don't. Alternatives - stone guards to cover that glass edge.

    Here is what Hella's look like with no glare reduction technique.

    image

    I have IPF's on my windshield now. They have a glass ring too, but they also have IPF stone guards. For added shielding, I added a strip of black electrical tape under the stone guards.

    image

    image

    As for switches, mine are 100% independent of ANY other lighting. This gives me flexibility and it is not hardwired to any other lighting solution. My driving and fogs (and even my rear fogs are independent - however, the rears ALSO work with my reverse circuit.)

    I used simple on/off switches from CarlingContura purchased from www.otrattw.com.

    -Paul
  • mgarviemgarvie Member Posts: 17
    Where did you run your wires at?

    Marc
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Wires were run behind the hinge and under the cowl cover. I drilled a hole at the FRONT of the cowl to run the wires into the engine bay then in to the cab through an existing hole/grommet setup to my switches inside.

    You can kinda see them here next to my wiper motor wiring... they are zipped together, but I have loom dedicated for the lighting.

    image

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Member Posts: 5
    Good Day,

    Please could someone please give me some advise/ share their thoughts on my idea...

    I would like to know if one could fit side pipes to a Jeep Wrangler 93 Model.
    The vehicle has been raised and has big tyres fitted, thus ensuring that there is enough clearance.
    I live very close to the desert and have not as yet encountered many rocks in the area, although there are certain areas closer to Hatta (Oman) which are rocky.

    Would you advise this is a good type of system?
    Would it affect the performance of the vehicle in a negative manner?
    What is the maximum dia. pipe that could be fitted? I am not planning on fitting "branches" to the exhaust manifold, maybe later.

    This past weekend I went dune bashing and found myself on a 30deg incline, the clutch lost its pressure and fell flat to the floor, could this be as a result of air in the system? Where would be most logical place to start looking for a "leak", I have not checked the slave cylinder, and did not notice any leaks pertruding from the master cylinder? After the vehicle was stopped on a level area the pressure came back on the peddle. :)

    Your advise and views would be appreciated..
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I would like to know if one could fit side pipes to a Jeep Wrangler 93 Model......Would you advise this is a good type of system?
    Would it affect the performance of the vehicle in a negative manner?

    The original system is designed to give maximum ground clearance and protection.
    Changing to side pipes would reduce the ground clearance and make the system much more vunerable to impact damage.
    However, if you're just doing it for appearance then pick whatever is most pleasing to your eye.

    This past weekend I went dune bashing and found myself on a 30deg incline, the clutch lost its pressure and fell flat to the floor, could this be as a result of air in the system? Where would be most logical place to start looking for a "leak",

    It may just be a low fluid level, though it could be air in the system.
    Master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the connecting pipe are the only components, so check them all for leaks.
  • gavindxbgavindxb Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your reply Mac24.

    As mentioned, the vehicle is raised by about 4 inches and has bigger tires fitted, I have about 50cm ground clearance, but I get your point and it will be considered before I make the final decision.

    Should I decide to stay with the standard rear exit exhaust system, do you perhaps know what is the maximum size of pipe I could use without compromising engine performance? I had a 2.8L BMW and the max I could go there was 60mm. I loved the sound it produced and I am hoping to achieve the same with this vehicle.. (I am a true petrol head, who needs a radio??)

    I shall start with the fluid, thank you for your advise! :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    edited April 2010
    Should I decide to stay with the standard rear exit exhaust system, do you perhaps know what is the maximum size of pipe I could use without compromising engine performance?

    You don't say which engine you have, but in general as you raise the exhaust diameter you reduce the backpressure, which in turn moves the point of maximum torque further up the rev scale while reducing the width of the torque band.

    I've no idea at what point performance starts to significantly degrade, but if the main purpose is to change the sound then I'd just go with whatever sounds the best to you. Even with 6" pipes it should still be driveable.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Keep in mind, if you fit side pipes, you also run a risk of burning your legs pretty good getting in and out of your Jeep. I've seen it done on a thread in another forum, where a guy integrated side pipes into rocker guard protection, but it was a LOT of work to keep the heat from transferring from the pipe to the rest of the rocker guard.

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your sound advise. I guess I'll rather stick to the norm.
    I have a 4L straight 6 engine. :)
  • gavindxbgavindxb Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advise, I see that a couple of peeps have had this happen to them. I saw some pics of the "the quickest Jeep in the world". I noticed that on this particular vehicle the pipes were mounted underneath the body. This will contribute to heat being transfered to the body, which will eventually burn you one way or the other.

    I have another question...

    Does your Jeep also get VERY hot at the gearbox area? :confuse:
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It gets hot because of the catalytic converter, which in my TJ is under the passenger seat (more like between the passenger seat and transmission tunnel). But yes, it gets hot in that area. I drove home from offroading last week and the passenger seat was really hot. As for the gearbox itself, I've never felt underneath to see how hot it was. The differentials can get pretty toasty after a highway run at speed (I'm running 4.88 gears too).

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Member Posts: 5
    Thnks for the feedback. That is exactly where mine gets hot too.

    I am not sure wht i am running, but what i do know is that th car is standard, so what ever it had come off the showroom with, is the way it has remained.

    We are going dunebashing this weekend and we cannot wait.

    Safe driving, and thanks for the feedback
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Why not just line the interior with a bedliner and not worry about it? :)

    I did this to my TJ since I run a safari top or topless all summer.

    image

    image

    I know it doesn't solve your problem, but it makes cleaning and draining a LOT easier. I don't know why I waited so long to do this!!!

    -Paul
  • cwo2jakecwo2jake Member Posts: 1
    Just bought 2010 Wrangler Sport/Rubicon. Bought replacement fuel door. Seems easy enough, right? No holes on pre-existing fuel assembly insert. No apparent access from under fender wall. Any idea before I start popping the insert off? Is drilling required? Is this better handled by the pro's?
  • gmcdave2gmcdave2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello All, I need some help and would like to ask a few questions about installation of this product and tire size. I look forward to hearing your advice

    My Jeep is a 2006 Jeep T.J. Wrangler Rubicon.

    The Product - Warrior 2" coil spring spacer kit with shocks

    I have read that others have had problems installing coil spring spacers in the Rubicon models due to there being a difference in the bump stop diameter size from the Wrangler to the Wrangler Rubicon and a lathe might be needed. Is there any truth to this? Does anyone have any opinions on the quality of the shocks in the Warrior kit? What will I ask for down the road when buying replacement shocks seeing the are larger or so the kit clams? Should I also replace coil springs if the jeep has 88,000 miles?

    Tire fit question: I was hoping to run aggressive off road 33" tires with no worries of rubbing, any thoughts? Could you through out some suggestions for tire size using stock wheels and preferably no wheel spacers.

    Thank you All...............
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Bump stop diameter - shouldn't be a problem at all.

    No opinion on the quality of the kit. I went with new springs and shocks (OME).

    Just buy new shocks with longer length rod for a jeep lifted X inches. If you have to replace the springs, go with a real lift kit and don't worry about spacers.

    Tire fit. Rubbing will be in a couple of possible points. Wheel backspacing and tire width will determine rub WHILE TURNING. Rubicon wheels have 5" of BS. If you want to run 33x12.5's, you need new wheels with a lower backspacing number (3.75 to 4" of BS) or get wheel spacers like SPIDERTRAX. Rubbing at flex will occur offroad and rub the underside of the fenders. With a proper lift kit, 33" tires shouldn't rub with a 2" lift, but you may find a 1" body lift may be a good thing as well.

    I suggest moving this thread into the Jeep Modifications thread - you'll get a LOT more feedback that way.

    -Paul
  • jplymanjplyman Member Posts: 90
  • ourjeeplifeourjeeplife Member Posts: 44
    edited February 2014

    Not sure this quifys as a mod.. Added/Swapped tires, New Bestop half top system (bikini, windjammer & duster) then for added security, a slighty used plastic bed liner uner the duster cover which creates a hard shell storage area in the back of the jeep. Here is the most resent image taken spring 2013 just before heading out toa jeep show.

    As for the paintable bed liner.. going to line this up this spring sort of creating a party event so all those interested can take part in helping paint this on. Herculiner sent me a kit as a promo for their product.

  • jordan40jordan40 Member Posts: 109

    if you want to do more modifications a magazine i look at called Petersen's 4x4 off road.

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