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Chevrolet Suburban Electrical Problems
Hi,
I'm hoping you guys can help. I have a 1991 Chevy Suburban. I was driving it a week ago, when all of a sudden the brake light came on (and stayed on), the A/C shut off, the power windows wouldn't work, and the speedometer went all the way to zero (and stayed there).
Things stayed this way for a few days. Then, one day when I went to start it, the brake light was NOT on, and everything that had stopped working was working again. Later that day, when I went to start it, the light was back on and the A/C, windows and speedometer had stopped working.
It seems to go back and forth. Sometimes it'll work, and sometimes it won't.
Any ideas at all what we should check?
Thanks in advance!
I'm hoping you guys can help. I have a 1991 Chevy Suburban. I was driving it a week ago, when all of a sudden the brake light came on (and stayed on), the A/C shut off, the power windows wouldn't work, and the speedometer went all the way to zero (and stayed there).
Things stayed this way for a few days. Then, one day when I went to start it, the brake light was NOT on, and everything that had stopped working was working again. Later that day, when I went to start it, the light was back on and the A/C, windows and speedometer had stopped working.
It seems to go back and forth. Sometimes it'll work, and sometimes it won't.
Any ideas at all what we should check?
Thanks in advance!
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Comments
You should also check the ground wire connection, to make sure you don't have a loose (or high resistance ground).
If those check out, then I would follow the power to the main fuse box, and check your voltage on the main buss, to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage from where the battery voltage is sitting at. You'll need a digital voltmeter, they can be picked up reasonably priced at a radio shack or auto parts stores.
2000 Chevy Suburban 2500 - has worked great for 9 years - about 140,000 miles
1. vehicle stopped running while out driving
2. 72 month Napa battery checked "dead" after 14 months - got another warranty battery
3. My son installed the battery with me on the phone.
4. He said that the keyless did not work - while installing the terminals he said that the terminal was sparking excessively, the lights were flashing and the interior was making clicking noises - probably the door locks. I told him to turn the lights off as they were set for automatic - this helped and he finished.
5. Vehicle started right up but kept dying if he did not give it gas. I told him to keep it runing and after a bit put it in drive and it kept running. He drove it up to school and parked it. He had to lock manually since the keyless was not working.
6. Next day he opened the door with the key and the alarm went off and he could not stop it. It finally stopped and he drove to baseball practice and the alarm went off while driving.
7. That night he went to the bank and lost the headlights, windows would not work, interior and dash lights went out and the truck died. It would not start. He left it and walked back to school. I have not heard back.
8. With all the electrical items going outand then the truck stalling I was thinking alternator but would the computer not send a message in advance if the alternator was bad?
9. What do you guys think? Any solid experience?
10. The truck is in Whittier California in the event that someone reads this from Whittier.
11. If I can't get some definite good info then I will need to fly there and get it fixed since my son does not have a lot of car experience to trouble shoot. If I tell him to take it to a shop that could end up costing a small fortune.
I'd get to an autoparts store and check that the battery and alternator are load testing and put out what they need. If the problem still exists, get it to a dealership who have the tools to check out the computers. May potentially need to replace a computer, or may just need to reload it's software.
I figured out the problems. So I am posting the solution in case anyone else has the problem. By the way, I bought a basic Scanner/Reader but I did not get any codes. There were basically (2) problems.
1. The electrical went dead after replacing the battery. The alternator was shot. I recharged the battery and installed the new alternator ($208 with tax) and that solved the electrical problem.
2. The engine kept shutting off when it was started and would only keep running if I sat with my foot on the gas for awhile. Once it stayed running I turned it off and it kept shutting off again. I checked the air filter which was dirty but not real dirty to cause the engine to stall out. I tried starting without the air filter and it still kept stalling. I then "reset" that air filter use gauge that has the red, green and yellow markings. I pushed the button and it reset back to "green" like I had just installed a new filter. That solved the problem. I put the old filter back in and it still ran just fine.
I drove home with the car (about 400 miles) with no problems.
First issue began about a year ago, Rear defroster and wiper stopped working. I can hear the wiper motor turn on but wiper doesn't move.
About 4 months ago my turn signals started working intermittently. They will work normally for days and then stop working at all. Sometimes manually flipping the lever up and down gets the signal started. Sometimes it is weeks working and weeks not working.
Last night, the heater in the drivers seat stopped working. It turns on but then right back off. And, when using cruise control, turning on either turn signal cancels the cruise control.
I am taking the car in to the dealership next week. Since I have no idea how the electrical works on these newer models I was hoping for some info an possible problems before I go in and hand over my checkbook. It is amazing what some shops will try to convince you is wrong when you are a woman!
Anything would be AWESOME!!
Those turn signal symptoms could be just a bad dual filament bulb, or may be related to an above larger battery problem.
The way that rear wiper motor sounds, it's as if the mechanical connection is broken or loose. You can hear the motor turn, but the wiper arm doesn't move.
You may want to consider taking it to an autoparts chain, where they will usually do a battery and alternator test for free for you. "IF" all of these problems (or a majority of them" are related to a bad battery, then they are certainly qualified to replace that battery for you.
If everything is fixed, cancel your dealer appointment. If battery and alternator are okay, then you'll need the dealer to trouble shoot everything. If the battery was bad and it fixes some of the things, then the dealership has a smaller list of items to repair.
I only have the 98 wiring diagram...but I assume it's similar/same.
You're going to need to use a multi meter o find the issue. You could try just unplugging either the elements or the module in the meantime (saves disconnecting the battery).
They should be located under the seat.
Thank you!!
Darnell10
I'd also check for corrosion on the battery terminals, and if you have some I'd be looking for corrosion up inside the cable. You need to check power cable connection where it connects down on the starter, and you should also check the negative wire connection to block.
If all of those are good, then have the vehicle checked for parasitic current draw from the battery. There may be something that is drawing the battery down, when it's not supposed to be.