Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler

1…255256258260261…455

Comments

  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Welcome.

    I see that good old Steve put you onto this thread from a discussion specifically about after market air filters and intake systems.

    Glad you came and expressed your opinion.

    Good luck with your K&N, and keep it oiled on schedule. You sure don't want dirt getting through. That's my only concern about those things. I don't believe they do much good in most cases, but you darn sure don't want to have dirt getting through the filter.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If it lasts the life of the vehicle, swapping in a K&N or similar will provide savings over the cost of paper air filters. However, you also need to take into account the cost of the cleaning and oiling kits. Also have regard for the fact that K&N type filters pass more air in comparison to a paper equivalent by filtering less efficiently. More air passed = a larger particulate size being passed as well. Tom can probably give you the figures as he's in the business of specifying paper filter media.

    In regard to complete systems I've no problem with the figures you quote. I've seen them myself and don't doubt their accuracy. However, we're discussing the Jeep 4.0 and 2.5 here. The figures often quoted by the aftermarket air tube and filter suppliers invariably apply to big V8 engines tuned for increased H.P. at the top end. Will it add 3-4% (12-16 hp) to a 400 hp engine? I can believe it would. Will it add anything like that to a 4.0 Wrangler engine, and would it be repeatably measurable on a dyno? I very much doubt it. Even if it did, would you notice a 5-7 hp increase at the top end? I don't think I would in my Jeep; a slight difference in wind strength or direction would have a much more noticeable effect.

    I will agree that on a Wrangler there will be a noticeable increase in intake noise though, which for some people is satisfaction enough.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Thanks for the link to your photos - the antenna that comes with the Roady is also very small. Right now I have it sitting on the dash and it works reasonably well - I do get some short drops in the mountains when driving north (but better a half a second of nothing than minutes of static!). I think if I were to put the antenna on the roof I wouldn't get those very short drops, but I'm not sure I really want to put it there for security reasons. I don't know why I'm worried about it - I have it mounted right beside the radio so it is very obvious if you look in the window.

    I actually prefer my antenna options on the Wrangler. It sounds like the roll bar is where I'll probably put it - if I put it under the rollbar padding it shouldn't hit the hard top (and I could use the padding to secure the wiring, right?). And thanks, fairview, for the information that the hard top doesn't affect the antenna - I've been sort of worried about that. Now I can't wait to get the FM modulator.

    I had heard that there could be a chance of leaking with synthetic oil, and I don't want to deal with that at the moment. If I ever get the engine rebuilt, could I change over then? I really shouldn't make a big deal of it - I'm doing just fine, and it IS cheaper.

    And finally, my Noble Black Steed will hopefully come back next week with a fixed air conditioning system (my fingers are crossed).
  • smedrangersmedranger Member Posts: 3
    Hi All!!!

    Sorry it's been sooooo long since I've been here. This semester of grad school has been particularly tough. For those that don't know me I'm Debbie aka smed from another chat room and I used to post here quite often with my love of the Wrangler. For those that do know me....hey guys long time no chat. :) Congrats to all of those that have gotten their new babies (Jeepies or baby Jeeps :) ).

    Tomster,
    Did you get my email? It was a comic strip that I thought you'd really enjoy. :) ...oh and a big belated HAPPY B-DAY!!!! :) Just gettin better with age right? ;) See ya after your trip. What time do you come by Gill's? I keep missin' ya.

    Twylieman :)

    How've ya been guy? Come back to gill's more often.

    mntngal,

    Hey there gal...How's the Jeep behavin' for you? I hope things are goin well for ya.

    ksuwildcat,

    Welcome from one of the old crew that's been away far too long. I like to hear about everyone's jeepin experiences. It keeps my Jeep dream alive. :) Sorry I'm from Missouri...and even though I haven't attended MU, I still root for the tigers. But I do root for KSU when MU's not playin :)

    Have a great week all and post lots of pics when possible. Oh and...

    Hug your Jeeps for me :)

    smed
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    An email, please? Need to discuss something with you off the board.

    Thanks.

    Tom
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Hi Gal! Yeah, it's been a while. Good to hear from you.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I was thinking about you the other day and wondering how you were doing. Aren't you getting closer to being done with school and getting that Wrangler? I still have the same Noble Black Steed - he's quite dirty at the moment, but only because he's been sitting too much recently.
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Tom & Mac,

    I replaced my air filter with a K&N filter about 13K miles ago. Should the larger dirt particles coming through be noticeable? I periodically check the housing under the filter (white glove inspection) and have not picked up any dirt/dust yet. Most of my miles have been driven on gravel/dirt roads with a lot of dust. I've been thinking that as long as it's clean under the filter, I should be fine -- do you agree?

    I'm not trying to take sides here with this issue, just wondering if I should throw out that $50 filter and put the OEM filter back. :(

    -Pete
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm not against K&N air filters, just some of the applications that they are marketed for. I use one on my aircraft engine for instance. However, I do not, and will not, use one on my Jeep.

    If you're happy that no fine dust is getting through yours, there's no reason to stop using it. However, as I said previously, K&N make a pre-filter sock for their tubular and conical filters because of the problems people have been having with fine dust getting through. You just have to make a judgement call as what you feel comfortable with.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    The way I look at it, the benefits of the K&N are, at best, very minor. The possible consequences are, however, huge. So, in my book, K&N's do not pass the benefit/risk criterion.

    If you keep yours, then, by all means, keep it cleaned and oiled on schedule. Maybe they are just as efficient as a paper filter when properly oiled?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    mtngal, nope haven't installed it but I have all my other stereo system stuff installed:
    - Alpine head unit (will be replaced shortly with XM ready version)
    - Kicker amp powering front and rears
    - Alpine amp powering Kicker sub
    - Tuffy security console housing the sub
    - MB Quart 5.25" speakers in dash
    - Kicker 6x9's in soundbar

    When I do install the XM, I'll be following twylie's suggestion about putting on top of the soundbar (I'll end up putting it under the fabric hopefully). I want it to be concealed.
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    On a recent trip to Steamboat, Colorado we saw a lot of Wranglers with the XM antennas mounted on the rear edge of the hoods. Centered, just ahead of the air intake slots for the heater. Looked like the windshield would still fold down over it if desired.
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Thanks for your views, I will keep an eye out for fine dust while I continue to use it. Yes, I keep it oiled.

    -Pete
  • dwrestledwrestle Member Posts: 72
    I like Selec Trac's 4 all time mode, that would be awesom on a Wrangler, and looking at the reviews for wranglers someone said they lke the selec trac 4x4.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No, the system fitted to all Wranglers except the Rubicon is the Command Trac. The Rubicon system which is similar, but has the addition of locking diffs in the axles, is called the Rock Trac.

    Go to http://www.Jeep.com for an illustrated explanation of how they work.
  • dwrestledwrestle Member Posts: 72
    Selec Trac would be nice.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    The full time four wheel drive option would be nice in certain conditions, but I wonder if the system would be as durable as the Command Trac? Usually, the more simple something is, the more reliable it is.

    I had a 99 JGC Laredo with the Select Trac, and it was a nice system.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    If I remember correctly, though, the rest of your JGC was problematic. A lot of people have problems with the rotors on those things.

    I also seem to recall that Edmunds had a long-term test of a 99 JGC and the Select TRac transfer case broke down and had to be replaced.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Overall, I guess the JGC was not too bad for reliability. I definitely had brake rotor problems, along with just about everyone else who owned a 99 JGC.

    I had an A/C control module replaced under warranty and a power window motor/regulator (or was it two of them?) replaced under warranty also.

    Don't know about the long term t-case thing you mentioned. Could be?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    (1) K&N stock air filter replacement for compatible Jeep Wranglers. Make offer.

    Ok, you guys got me just a little paranoid about the fine dust. I checked again yesterday under the filter on the clean side, still no signs of dust. But, when I decided to pull off the black pipe/tube that feeds the throttle body, I noticed a fair amount of fine brown dust (same color as the roads I drive on) coating the inside of the tube.

    I don't know why it didn't accumulate behind the filter (maybe from the slower air velocities there compared to the tube?), but looking at both ends of the tube showed a fair amount of dust. Needless to say, I put the OEM filter back in after cleaning all the dust out. I'll stick with the OEM from now on, thank you very much.

    While poking around, I noticed below, for lack of a better term, the butterfly valve in the throttle body and it was black and oily. I'm assuming this is what they call blow-by from the crankcase. How much is too much of this in the intake manifold? What are the negative performance characteristics caused by this build up (if any) that I should watch for? I wiped out what I could without disassembling anything, but what now?

    -Pete
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    OK, let me ask you a favor. Please do the same check for dust in the black tube after you have been on the stock filter for a few months. It could be that part of what you are seeing now actually goes back to the pre-K&N days. Let's be fair about this. I really think that you will see much less dust, if any, after the stock filter has been in a while, but let's be fair and do the comparison. OK?

    Mac, would some gas tank additive fuel injector cleaner help get rid of that build up Pete asks about?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    With severe deposits you'll notice poor idling and stumbling at low revs. Ideally the throttle body should be perfectly clean, but obviously it will get dirty as the vehicle is driven, so cleaning should be regarded as part of regular maintenance.

    Cleaning is easy. Just use an aerosol 'Throttle Body Cleaner', which will also be labeled as sensor safe, and available at your local auto parts store/Wal-Mart etc. Do not use engine cleaner, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or anything like that.

    A fuel additive won't really help as the fuel is injected beyond the throttle body.
  • dwrestledwrestle Member Posts: 72
    When you put a jeep in 4-Low it multiplies the torque to 2.72.1, but I don't know what that means and I would like to know how much torque that really is, and at what RPM will it be at.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Think of the transfer case as sort of another set of gears. When the Jeep is put into four low, whatever the gear ratio would be in two wheel drive or four wheel drive high range is multiplied by 2.72.

    There are three places where the relationship between engine speed (RPM) and vehicle speed can be changed. (There are four, if you count tire size.)

    The transmission is the first place. The transmission gears allow the vehicle to go from a standing start up to highway speeds while keeping the engine RPM in a good range.

    The next thing in the drive train in a four wheel drive vehicle is the transfer case. This is where power can be applied to the front drive shaft and where a gear reduction can be made, if the transfer case is put into low range. If we are talking a Jeep here, and if it is a five speed and is in fourth gear, the gear ratio coming into the t-case is 1:1. So, if the t-case is put into four low, the resulting gear ratio coming out of the t-case is 2.72:1.

    The next place that engine RPM vs vehicle speed is changed is the differential gearing.

    The final factor affecting engine RPM vs vehicle speed is the tire diameter.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Tom has given you an explanation of how the Wrangler gearing works with regard to engine speed. Remember that the same explanation also applies to engine torque.

    Torque is turning power. When you use a wrench on a bolt, the force you apply is described as a measurement of torque, usually in pounds feet (lbs/ft). The harder you pull on the wrench the more torque you are applying.

    The answer to your question of how much torque, is that it depends. It depends on which gear the main transmission is in, and on what engine revs are being used......... and that depends on how far you have your right foot pressed down!
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    Any tips on saving money repairing or replacing a broken rear window on the factory hardtop on 97 tj Wrangler. Best I've found is $400 to replace.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Welcome! Hope someone has some info for you, but I'm just posting to say "hi" and "welcome."

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I can't think of anything that would satisfactorily replace the original. Plywood or plexiglass don't really cut it. Doesn't your insurance cover glass?
  • greenjeepgreenjeep Member Posts: 15
    Hello all. Took me a few days to get back on. Between taking care of a 13 month old and holding down a full time job its tough, although me and the little guy do find the time to go jeepin' which he loves.

    Gee, I did stir up a can of worms on the air filter/intake thing didn't I? I do appreciate very much your opinions/advice Tom and Mac24, Mtngal. I have had an AirRaid intake installed on my 99 Tahoe since 2000 and have had no problems with dust but of course I did regularly clean and oil it. I will check the tube on the Rubi for dust, etc. (as some of you have described) and let you know what I find. I don't drive on any dusty roads (at least not yet) so I don't think I'd have a problem with dust.

    You are right about the sound. It does make a whining noise when I accelerate hard. It sounds kinda neat, like a turbo charger sounds on a big diesel engine. Some people might be bothered by it but I think it sounds neat. I do agree with all of you that a lot of the aftermarket stuff they sell is "snake oil" and basically does nothing they claim. I seriously have noticed a bit more of a power increase and I seem to be able to go a little further on gas too, but at the same time if this thing does in fact let dust pass then it will not be worth it if I end up with a damaged engine and I will definitely go back to the original set up.

    I am really learning a lot from all of you and I really appreciate all of you taking the time to respond. This board is full of some really fine people. Hopefully some day I'll be lucky enough to meet some of you.

    Thanks again.
  • greenjeepgreenjeep Member Posts: 15
    Here's a link about this intake in case anyone wants to read about it.

    http://www.aempower.com/truck/press_events_detail.asp?aid=16

    GreenJeep
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You know how I feel about this stuff, so don't take this as a slam against you or your vehicle.

    To start with, magazine reviews on products supplied by their advertisers, especially when the advertiser supplies the 'facts and figures', can hardly be described as unbiased.

    Second, the reviewer obviously has no understanding of what an increase in power might mean. "........Highway and commuter driving benefited greatly, offering a 75 mph cruising speed at 3200 rpm with plenty of pedal left to kick it up to 80-85 mph while still under 3500 rpm........". Um.......yesss! So without this device there would be a different relationship between rpm and speed?????

    Third, the figures supplied by AEM are 'corrected'. However, no mention is made of the correction applied, nor of any differences in time, temperature, atmospheric pressure, etc., between the runs. Come to think of it, how many runs were made? Were the best figures taken for the AEM and the worst for the stock Jeep? I'm not just picking on AEM here. These sort of advertizing tricks are used in one way or another in virtually every industry. (Remember the Mustangs that weren't even close to their advertized power output and eventually had to be bought back by Ford?)

    Fourth, I remember reading claims in press releases in 2002 claiming that C.A.R.B exemption (50 state legal) was pending; it was still pending in in March '03 review, and appears to still be pending now in June '04 (current spec on 4wd.com).

    I can just see the Jeep engineers slapping their foreheads and saying "Doh! If only we'd thought of enlarging the intake capacity we could a had a nearly 10% increase horsepower at a mere 78% throttle opening. How could we have missed such a simple way to save millions?!!!".

    Sorry, but when applied to a Jeep engine (which turns slowly and breathes easily), the product and the theory behind it is snake oil. However, ask me about comparing it to a standard intake on an LS1 engined late model Camero and I'll give you a different answer.

    So, in my opinion only, the article is fluff and the product is snake oil.............but it does look to be quite well made snake oil!
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    OK, I think we can get this into some pretty simple terms.

    I don't think Mac would argue, and I would not argue that a K&N or Brute Force or whatever is less restrictive to air flow than a factory filter and intake system.

    Now, being less restrictive, it would allow more air to flow through it at the same vacuum level, which is the vacuum level provided by the engine.

    This would ONLY be an advantage if the engine was not getting all the air it needed or could use through the factory system.

    Mac is saying, and I agree, that the 4.0 L makes its power at fairly low RPM, and there is no need for any more air than the factory intake system provides. So, the lower restriction does very little, if anything, to help the engine performance.

    If it DOES do anything, it would only be at W.O.T. (wide open throttle). How often are we going to drive with the pedal to the medal and get any benefit of a few extra horsepower?

    The next question is how does that filter get the lower restriction? There is a risk that the lower restriction comes at the cost of dirt-trapping efficiency. I'm not saying that it does in all cases, but I have seen posts where people have found dust DOWNSTREAM of the K&N's and other after market intake filters.

    So, the bottom line is that an after market air intake system does little or no good in the case of the 4.0 L engine, but it comes with a risk of lower dirt-trapping efficiency.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    If it was that easy to increase hp/mpg the manufacturer would have done it. (how much could it have cost to enlarge and striaghtened the plumbing? Nothing I bet).

    Has anyone experienced or heard of ways to soundproof a Wrangler? I just went on a long trip, and the road noise was a bit more than my ears wanted to handle on a long trip.
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    Oh, and I have to turn the radio up too much.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's very easy to improve the soundproofing on a Wrangler, mainly because there's so little there in the first place!

    Any automotive soundproofing medium can be used. Generally, the more you pay the better it works. There's also a soft quilted headliner available, for both hard and soft tops, which is supposed to be effective in both sound and thermal insulation.

    Just follow normal auto soundproofing techniques; a little 'Googling' will bring up more than you can imagine.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    For the past couple of months I've detected a frequent "click" through the steering wheel-it is felt rather than heard. I rarely notice it on the road; it appears to happen at low vehicle speeds-usually when driving over a speed bump or making a tight turn. My shop has checked the front suspension and can find nothing wrong. Tonight I inspected the steering shaft-from the box to the wheel. I noticed that there was a bearing or coupling on the shaft and that it was located beside and below the throttle body. I noticed that the coupling seemed a bit loose- I grasped the steering shaft and was able to wiggle the shaft a fair amount. Now for the questions:
    Could the loose coupling be the cause of my steering click?
    If so, how hard is it to R&R the bad coupling?
    Thanks a bunch!
  • fairviewfairview Member Posts: 20
    On the issue of soundproofing, what kind of top and doors do you have? When I bought my 98 Sport in 01, it had a soft top and half doors. At my age, 60, I am much less tolerant of noise than when I was younger. I looked on ebay, eventually finding a hard top and then hard doors. I believe it was in 02 that the new soft top came out that was quieter than the older soft top. The quietest setup is a hard top and hard doors, but if you want to keep the soft top, hard doors make a big difference. In fact, since I put the hard top on a couple of months before I got hard doors, I believe most of the noise was coming from the doors.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    You were close... it was 01 that the tops came out with sailcloth material. These tops are four ply, and everyone raved about how much quieter they were compared to the older tops. (I have the hard top only, so I just have to go by what other people say.)

    Somebody else can confirm or refute this, but I believe there has been another change in the top material beginning with either the 04s or the 03s??? I think the tops are maybe three ply now, or are somehow thinner than the four ply, but are still as quiet. Am I dreaming this? Can someone out there shed some light on this?

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I don't know if they changed the design of the soft tops or not, but I do know that I test drove an unlimited and it is DEFINITELY quieter than my 98 hard top Sport.

    Got the bad news yesterday - the AC compressor is gone. Ouch! Oh well, it'll be nice to finally get the A/C working again. It's been at least a year since it worked right, and with summer here I'd like to do some more fun driving, for a change.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's possible that the shaft bearing is causing the mysterious click, but it's more likely to be caused by one of the universal joints, either at the steering box end of that shaft, or on the column inside the vehicle. The only problems I've come across with these is the clamping bolt coming loose. It's easiest to check if you have a friend that can turn the wheel while you put your hand around the joint.

    The bad news is that neither joints nor bearing are available seperately as O.E. (though the FSM does say that the shafts are serviceable), and though a re-manufactured shaft may be available aftermarket, I've only ever come across them for the YJ.

    Replacement of the underhood shaft isn't hard, though it isn't covered in the FSM for some reason. I would undo the fastening at the bottom of the column at the firewall, followed by the bearing bracket fastenings under the hood. Next, I'd release the shaft fastening at the steering box, then the three steering box mounting bolts that secure it to the frame rail. The steering box can then be swung away from the frame and the steering shaft should then pull free.

    Hopefully though, your problem should be cured by the tightening of a bolt!
  • bamatazzbamatazz Member Posts: 311
    hello jeepers
      sorry i havent been posting much. Just bus busy in the restaurant biz, getting bids on new HVAC system at out place.
     On Tuesday my mother had a wreck she wasnt hurt just a little shook up. The insurance company is going to "total out" her car. Now gotta find her a new car. Looking for a sedan type car. She had a Buick Regal.
      Tom I know you just bought an Impala a few months ago, just wondering how that is working?
      My mother BARELY drives but, she does need something to drive. Ive been thinking of a cavalier, Intrepid, or Altima.
      Any Advice would be appreciated.

    thanx
    BAMA!
  • dwrestledwrestle Member Posts: 72
    Today I was learning how to drive a manual transmission(funny stuff)and I realize that is a pain in the rear to keep the vehicle from rolling back on the hill, even with the friction point stuff. My instructor informed me that newer standard transmissions don't roll back on hills, I am wondering if Jeep Wrangler rolls back on hills or not.

    Bamatazz I think the Malibu Maxx is one awesome car, it has gobs of power with the 3.5 liter V6(pretty good on gas too), and it's so easy to drive, the foot pedals move forward, the steering wheel moves forward, back, up, and down, and the back seat move forward back and recline.

    I am a little under 400lbs and I fit in this car great, I think anybody would love this car. The Impala looks a lot better though, but I don't think it has all the stuff the Maxx does, but if it does go for the Impala it's just cool looking, and you can get a SS version, with a supercharged 3.8 liter Supercharged V6.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    I would check for rebates and go with the best offer, assuming there are several cars that you think would do the job.

    Our Impala is a great car, and we got almost $8500 off of sticker all together, with the $4500 rebate, the discount the dealer gave me (sold car at invoice), and the GM Card rebate I had earned plus the "bonus" money they added to what I had earned. Now, we got the LS model, but you might want to look at the regular Impala, which is still a REAL nice car by all accounts. It would be quite a bit cheaper than the LS.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    You'd better get another instructor, if he said newer vehicles with the manual trannies won't roll backwards on a hill! That's BS! When the clutch is in, a vehicle is gonna roll downhill, unless the foot brake or the emergency brake is applied.

    Some vehicles have enough torque at idle speed so that you can keep your right foot on the brake, and let the clutch out with your left foot. You don't have to give it gas. You simply EASE out slowly on the clutch while holding your right foot on the brake, and as soon as you feel the vehicle starting to pull, let off the brake and get your foot over to the gas.

    A Jeep with the 4.0 L I-6 engine has enough torque at idle RPM to use this trick. Man, out on the trails in four low, you can REALLY use that trick when you have to stop on a steep hill and then take off again.

    DO NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE ON A HILL BY LETTING THE CLUTCH PART WAY OUT! This will burn up a clutch in no time.

    A trick some people use is to set the emergency brake, then move their right foot over to the gas petal. They ease out the clutch until they feel the vehicle trying to pull, then release the emergency brake.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Your instructor is partly right - the Subaru Forester comes with a hillholder feature where the vehicle won't roll back. That sounds great, until you parallel park on a slight slope and want to let the car just roll back to get out of it - it won't (or so I read here on the Forester board). While some people love it, others hate it.

    I used the emergency brake trick when I was driving a '69 Opel Kadet in San Francisco when I had been driving for only a couple of years. Worked great there (and there are few places in the world that have worse hills).

    After a while you get used to where your clutch engages and can start on a normal hill without resorting to it.

    bama - I don't know what your price range is, but my Mom (who also doesn't drive much) has a Buick La Sabre, which she loves dearly (she says it will be her last car). You might want to look at the Century also (they are still making both cars, aren't they? You can tell I don't know anything about cars - just trucks and SUVs).
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    I think the e-brake trick on hills is one of the first things you should practice learning to drive a stick, unless you live in Kansas or something. After a while, though, you get good enough that you can pop it into gear before you start to roll backwards after letting off the brakes, unless you are on a really steep hill. I've driven my Jeep in San Francisco and the e-brake trick is absolutely necessary there.

    I wouldn't buy a Chevy or any other GM product because the interiors are so shabby--most start rattling within months, and look like they were assembled by 3-year olds. Plus, I also enjoy certain features on a car such as headlights you can turn off. Rebate or not, remember GM cars lose their trade-in value worse than anything else out there, it won't be worth half of what you paid for it in a year.

    The only domestic sedan of interest, I think, is the new Chrysler 300.
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Yes Tom, I will do the same check on the intake tube using the stock air filter. Of course, it will be several months before I get enough miles driven, but I will be comparing the dust level between the two filters.

    As a side note, I've been using a K&N cone on the end of an AEM Cold Air Intake (long) on my late model Celica GT-S for 40K miles now. After seeing the dust in the intake on my Jeep, I thought I should inspect the Toyota too -- no dust. I'll leave this configuration alone, it seems to be clean and provides extra power were I want it.

    One thing about aftermarket intakes, aside from the potential better airflow over restrictive OEM intakes, is they change the harmonics of the intake pulse which changes air flow characteristics / efficiencies. Similar to building stereo speaker housings 'optimized' for certain bands of frequencies, these intakes can be 'tuned' to improve airflow at a certain band or notch frequencies. Like Mac said, it's best noticed in higher revving/performance engines, not the slow turning Jeep 4.0. One thing that happens in a high-end 'tuned' intake is you will see more horsepower at some point in the power band (hopefully were you want it) but it 'steals' this increased horsepower from other parts of the power band. This part of the equation you won't see in the advisements. You may gain 10 hp in a very small peak at or near redline and you may be losing 10 hp or more in the lower RPM's.

    I believe it was Sport Compact Car magazine that did an interesting comparison of intakes, graphing the stock and intake modified horsepower curves. With almost every manufacturer, they did achieve the advertised HP gain. But, they highlighted in the graph the HP losses at lower RPM that mostly equaled or over shadowed those gains at higher RPM. When those losses are in your everyday around-town driving RPM range, you'll feel the loss of power and see it in reduced MPG. If they aren't, then it can be a win-win upgrade. Most of the time though, you have to match a tuned intake system with a tuned exhaust system to really get a worth while performance & drivability boost.

    For my Jeep, I just want that intake to keep things clean and dry. Both of these are very important to me off-road. Some after-market intakes may or may not be as clean, but I haven't seen one yet that comes close to Jeep's OEM design for baffling and draining water that's splashed into the engine compartment around the intake.

    -Pete
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Yeah, thanks Mac, that was the next thing on my list. I'll make sure it's sensor safe. The old stuff I have now doesn't say it is, so I won't risk it.

    -Pete
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Yes, I saw the clamping bolt and it appeared tight. That said, I'm goingto give it a close inspectio-if the blasted rain will ever let up...:p
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Ross Allen and I took Thelma Jane to Turkey Bay today, which is our normal thing to do on Saturdays, and we got soaked BIG TIME!

    I now know what it must feel like to drive a topless, doorless Jeep through an automatic car wash!

    It was the hardest rain I have ever been in, and it just kept on coming down. Usually, the hard rains are over in just a few minutes, but not this time. There was thunder and lightning all around us, and the wind was blowing something fierce.

    There was about a half inch of standing water in the floor board by the time we got home. Naturally, EVERYTHING in Thelma Jane got soaked.

    The Tomster and Ross Allen both got totally soaked to the bone, and it was a 70 mile drive home. I guess the hardest rain fell in the first 20 miles of the trip home.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles