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Mitsubishi Outlander throttle accelerator problem
kcole1
Member Posts: 4
in Mitsubishi
I have had problems since purchase (9/06) with the check engine light and loss of power. The car will suddenly decelerate and even with the gas pedal to floor will only go ~ 30 MPH. I have had it in the Mitsubishi shop numerous times (8 over 1 yr). They have replaced the pedal position sendor, the throttle body assembly and adjusted numerous things. Haven't had a problem since 10/08 UNTIL this morning when the same thing happened again. Has anyone else had similar problems? The dealer tells me that they have never seen problems like this....guess I'm the only one???
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Do get back to us on this. I wouldn't waste a single minute, though, go call the BBB for help.
8 times for the same problem qualifies.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
This valve is very important for the performance of the car. The EGR in the Outlander is relatively complicated and needs a mechanic to remove it and replace it with a new one. It is easy to damage adjacent parts. The cost of one-valve is about $250.
My GT has 17K miles and hasn’t complained so far. I have drove miles and miles in desolated areas in all weather conditions if we would have had a mechanical problem perhaps no-one would have found us for 2-3 days. That is why we loaded our car with all imaginable aids to survive in such inhospitable terrain.
Please don’t hesitate to ask what error code the MUT scanning machine comes up with. The MUT must be capable of indentifying the problem. You may take your car to another Mitsubishi garage. From my experience A Mitsubishi representative visit every Mitsubishi garage every 15 days. Ask your garage (manager) when this representative will be in your local garage. Talk with him he may advise further actions. I think that many Mitsubishi garages have not the technical skills in their personnel and many garage technicians attend one or two days to classes about Mitsubishi technicalities. For example my dealer has only one technician that knows how to use the MUT scanning machine. No- one other than him has the knowledge to interpret the computer result data. Relax.
If it happens again, I guess I'll be checking with the BBB because while this model gets high marks for reliability, I think there is something wrong with THIS particular car.
Bingo! As a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS owner that is happy with his purchase, I am looking to see what happens with other Mitsubishi owners and what kind of purchase and ownership experience they are having. This is truly regrettable what is going on here, and I would want to think that Mitsubishi Corporate would want this problem to be solved to both your satisfaction and theirs. I am impressed by Mitsubishi's carbuilding prowess and I believe their engineering group is indeed impressive, overall.
Please get back and let us know how Mitsubishi solves (or does not seem to solve) this problem, and I do hope you are able to get this fixed ASAP.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Good luck and I hope it is the true cause.
In July 2011, I was driving on the interstate and my car suddenly lost power and could only drive up to 45 mph, with me flooring it. I managed to drive it home and took it to a Goodyear the next day (closest place for me to go). The code came up for the accelerator pedal position sensor. I had the throttle replaced (this includes the sensor). The car was fine until August 2012. I was driving home from work, and suddenly my car lost power. I drove it to a mechanic in town. The next day they told me that, again, the code for the accelerator pedal position sensor came up. But, they said to take it to a Mitsubishi dealership to get checked and fixed. Since the dealership is far away and my car was maxing at ~30 mph, I chose to have it towed since that was the safer option. Once it got to the dealership, they tested the sensor, and said that there was nothing wrong with it. They ultimately found paint buildup on a wire in the car which was causing this fake code to come up on the diagnostics ... I've never had a paint job or body work done to my car, so the paint build-up must be a factory problem. This is what the dealership wrote on my report, "High resistance on pin 7 connector ZB115. Used multi-meter to check resistance of connector B115 to ECM connector B112. Load tested circuit in question. Ok. Found high resistance caused by insecure ground at ECM due to high paint build-up. Cleaned ground and re-tested. Ok."
Maybe other Outlanders have this underlying problem, because the posts I've read on here sound a lot like my situation. I only paid for the labor to get this fixed, but shouldn't have had to do that, since this appears to be factory paint. I'm not going to bother fighting Mitsubishi on the cost because I plan to trade my car in sometime in the near future (and probably not for another Mitsubishi). I don't know if paint build-up is common on wires for Mitsubishi or other brands, but this seems like a ridiculous problem, especially since it took 6 years of me having the car for something to happen and then an additional year for a mechanic to identify the underlying problem.
I hope this information helps someone ...
I traded it this summer thankfully and am very happy with my Hyundai Santa Fe!
Equally, respectable car review magazine put the Outlander reliability above average. Perhaps I am a bit biased about the Outlander (I owned 2-cars) for a maximum of 2-years each. The first I took to Alaska to a place called “Dead Horse” with more than 800 miles (return) on gravel (mud, ice, snow) without any electrical or mechanical problems. Furthermore, I took the second one from the US to Argentina (Ushuaia) on 40% of the road without tarmac (called “ripio”) without any problems at all. Those are the facts.
The Outlander, in my opinion, excels because of its mechanical prowess. The inside finish is poor, the paint is sub-standard, and it scratches easily. As an example, I may say my Lexus SC 300 its interior looks much better than my Outlander in spite of the fact that my Lexus is 16-years old.
There is no guarantee that changing to another make other than Mitsubishi will ensure that you do not have problems. You may ask yourself why there is a small garage in every corner in the US. There are a lot because there are millions of cars (regardless of make) that need something done. Still having a garage is a good business in the US.
Buying a new car is like choosing a wife. There is no guarantee that you will not divorce more than one time (presently more than the 40%)
I bought a new 2007 Outtie XLS now with 77K miles on the clock and have had no problems the past 5 years....NONE...And, I live at the Continental divide in the Colorado Rockies so this car gets to be my Jeep....I go everywhere with it, even the Jeep adventure roads because I spend almost every day somewhere hiking (I'm retired) on the many trails here and this car gets me up the crummy forest roads to the trailheads with ease.
Plus, I think the 2007 and 2008 Outties are better looking than the new ones so I will keep this mechanical jewel of a car til I get 100K on the clock and then trade it in for a new Outtie, that is, if they look as good as my 2007 and has the smooth V6...
Usually this problem is detected by the electronic scanner by recording a fault code. I have not been in the situation of changing the EGR valve in any of my Outlanders but indeed I changed it in a previous Hyundai Tucson (2005) where the manual recommended changing this valve at 30K miles. I have also changed this valve or equivalent in my Lexus 1996 as a routine job every 40K miles, just to keep the engine performance in good working order.
I came across to this problem with the small car of my wife when on the highway her car started to lose power suddenly. It was not a nice experience. The same day I took her car to a garage where a scanner was used to find out the problem. The problem was traced to a jammed EGR valve. I had to pay for the finding of the code, the part, and the labor.
Mitsubishi dealers’ service men may exaggerate the problem or pretend that the problem is unique in order to profit from unaware customers. Without an elementary knowledge of cars, owners are easy prey for exploitation.
Sorry, again, for the late reply and I hope that you're able to get your car fixed.
get someone to tow it and find the money to pay for it all. We have been without it since two Fridays before Thanksgiving. I think we are just going to rent a car dolly and take it ourselves. Bad part about small town living..But thank you and I will print and take what you wrote with me
If you have the same problem as I did, then it should take the dealership no time at all to locate the wire and clean off the excess paint. So, your repair cost should be minimal if the paint build-up is what they find. I had to pay 4 hours' worth of labor because they had no idea where the problem was. I've gone on 2 long trips (~800 miles) since I had my car fixed and (*fingers crossed*) the problem hasn't happened again. I'm really hoping it's fixed for good.
I wish you all the luck in the world and I hope that you are able to get your car fixed and that you have no more problems in 2013!