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Comments
I have had it start when 57 degrees out, am still experimenting with temperature ranges. Once I used "blue ice" frozen Ice packs to rescue my wife when it would not start. I placed the ice packs all around the keyhole area (top of dash, against the indicator panel, resting on the wiper handle, and held one in place below with my knee. In about 10-15 minutes it started. I had jumper cables on it so I could try every so often.
Another time I tried plastic bags of crushed ice on variuos places under the hood. No luck at all, I waited till 11 pm and drove back to where it was stuck and it started right up. So based on my limited ice attempts I'd say the temperature that is important is interior, not under the hood temperature. I have not experimented with airconditioning, but since it has to be running to turn on air conditioning, I don't see a way for that to help, other than allowing a quick stop.
I also noticed the symptoms with the turn signals, but mine is not as bad off as yours. If it cannot start the signals just buzz when the ignition is on, but if it can start they work *almost* fine. I say "almost" because the first troubles I had began about a year ago, after using the turn signals the clicking sound they make continued even after I turned off the blinker. It would keep clicking somewhat erratically, then eventually calm down and stop. Then if I used the blinker again it often would start happening again.
If I can get it to start, then I am fine, it keeps running no problem. I just keep it running when I stop for gas, for example. It has door remote so I can leave it running and locked while making a quick stop at a store, and use the remote thingy to get back in when I am ready to leave.
Thank you for posting your experiences, eventually we'll get the right part to fix figured out. by turning the key to "on" and listening to see if I hear the fuel pump come on, I can predict if it will start, without having to waste battery turning it over. One time I was turning it on then off, listening for the fuel pump, and one of the electrical ger boxes in the fuse panel under the hood started buzzing, I felt them till I could feel the one that was buzzing, and switched it with another one that was the same. It stopped buzzing, but that did not fix it. I have not yet checked to see what circuit it was on, but maybe I will get a clue that way too.
I think what it was that the steering column supposedly slides up and down the spline and should damp the vibration input from the wheels, however this spline was sticking and transferring the vib into your steering wheel. What do you think? Would like to hear back if you still have the car?
regards,
Anh Le
Thanks a mil, Dewey
Alas!!!!!!!!! Is there another solution? Is there something that lets me know when I'm too close? Remember the wires by the passenger side of the car that would warn you when were too close to the curb--don't want to mark up the white walls!!
Any ideas? I'm spending over $1,000 to have my front bumper/grill repainted. {:--((((
Uncle Dewey
Uncle Dewey
The solution for the rear would be to purchase an aftermarket backup camera.
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