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Chevy Tahoe Starting and Stalling Problems

mollerismmollerism Member Posts: 2
edited October 2017 in Chevrolet
Has anyone had any luck getting their stalling issue resolved? I have an 09 Tahoe that has died three times while driving. One time had to run off into the ditch to avoid an accident. Took it to the dealership and they said "Nothing in the computer to tell us what to fix". They don't even care.

SEE ALSO: Diagnosing Stalling Problems
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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to have a look at Chevy Suburban Rough Idle and Stalling.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mollerismmollerism Member Posts: 2
    That is the thread that got me in this forum but I didn't see any resolution to the issue.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    It's a serious problem and, with a little luck, maybe someone who's found a fix will jump in and lend a hand. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • dadio9797dadio9797 Member Posts: 1
    some fuel problems don't signalize the computer like maybe pressure problems.
    some ignition problem don't signalize the computer like soleniod problems or coil pack problems. sometimes you can get moisture in the tank and it won't signalize the computer and give you a code. what i would do first is to run the gas out of the tank as much as possible then get some techron at a autozone or pep boys or walmart, Techron exclusively. then go to the gas station and fill the tank to the amount on the directions on the bottle then run it on the freeway about 20 to a half an hour if nothing changes its a ignition problem if it changes, as in get better, its a fuel problem.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Mollerism,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. How long has the concern been present? Can you please email me your VIN? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • ridemywaveridemywave Member Posts: 5
    When turning through an intersection or parking the engine will shut off. We put in neutral to restart and continue on. It idles really rough as well but does not turn off.

    Thanks for some advice!
  • keithndikeithndi Member Posts: 2
    My Tahoe was running like crap. Ive replaced plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, O2 sensor, Catalytic converter and the muffler that was rusted out while I was down there.

    It runs and sounds better but...The idle is a little rough, but not much. The idle stays pretty much at 600-700 in drive, a little higher in park. But if I turn on the A/C It will stall.

    It's also a little hesitant on acceleration.

    I read in the forum that I could be looking at the VSS, the EGR valve, or fuel pump (I'm really hoping not on the pump).

    Also the Mass Air Flow sensor has been mentioned, but I can't seem to find a part listed anywhere for a '95 Tahoe. Does my truck even have one?

    Any help would be appreciated.
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  • mjb43mjb43 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 tahoe over 120,00 miles. Its been shutting down on us when making a uturn or turning into or backing out of a parking stall. We thought it had something to do with the plugs because the idle was off, but plugs have been changed and idle is good again. We don't think its the fuel pump because that was just changed less than two yrs ago. Anyone having this praticular problem?
  • mjb43mjb43 Member Posts: 4
    We are having the same problem with our "03" tahoe. What was the fix for yours? I realize it was over a yr ago but we would appreciate any help.
  • dmntddmntd Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2005 Tahoe with the 5.3L V8. Just had my transmission rebuilt less than a month ago and my truck runs great. Well last night as I was headed out my street it started to shutter and shake like it was about to run out of fuel or something. It did not cut off but I did notice that the tech did not jump or fall during this time it stayed around 500rpm's. As I drove on it did it one more time as I accelerated through a light but it did not stall. It sat for about 3 hours and when I was returning home it ran fine. There was no indicator lights or warnings. Does this mean my fuel pump may be about to go out or do I need to maybe change the filter? The air filter is clean and almost new so I know that is not the problem. Where is the fuel filter located? Oh and also yes I use mid grade gas from Shell and I had just spent $86 to fill my tank the night before. Any suggestions or ideas would be great to help me figure this out. I know if I take it to the shop and there is not service light they may tell me they cant find anything wrong.
  • mjb43mjb43 Member Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    Our 2003 tahoe did that same thing before it eventually just started dieing out on us. I reccomend buying the Chilton's car manual for your praticular model yr. It has been a big help for us. Our fix was a 5 dollar fix. I'm not a machanic so I don't know the proper terminology so bare with me. Try cleaning the flap and changing the o-ring in the throttle body. It would have cost us 240 dollars if we took to the dealer. So, we decided to do ourselves and it was easier than we thought, with the help of the Chilton manuel. We took carborator/ throttle body cleaner, sprayed and cleaned the carbon out. Apparently, carbon starts to build up in the throttle body where the flap is and it throws off the sensor. Since than the idle is back to norm and it has not stopped on us once. Now, I will say that we have changed our fuel pump as well a yr ago. It was shutting off on us when we came to a stop. Then eventually it just wouldn't kick over. So, then a friend of ours who is a mechanic told us to knock on the fuel tank and if the car started rite up then it was the fuel pump. Again, with the help of the manuel I was able to change myself. But, I have been told if the car is still running or shuts off and turns back on, it probably isn't the fuel pump(which is located in the fuel tank). Hope this helps.
  • dmntddmntd Member Posts: 20
    Thank you for the advice but just to be more clear my tahoe kind of bogs down either like its missing or losing power. I was told if it was the filter or pump it would knock or rattle or stall out completely. So not really sure what would cause it to bog down
  • bjordanebjordane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Tahoe. Most of the time when I turn the lights on, hit the brake pedal, shift into reverse the engine stalls. The engine starts right back up and idles fine the truck runs great but stalls when the brake pedal is pushed or the lights are turn on. Any suggestions?
  • dmntddmntd Member Posts: 20
    Ok so my check engine light finally came on and the shop told me it was a throttle body issue and they could not fix it since they do not have the proper scam tool. I took my car to our local Chevy dealer and couched up $135 just for a diagnostic and was told it was an error code P1810. Since I just had the transmission rebuilt in Dec of 2011 I had to drive it back to the transmission shop for them to fix it. Got my car back the next day and they said they replaced the transmission pressure switch and cleared the code and engine light. On the way home the car bogged down again and I took it right back to the Chevy dealer. Well the dealer had to call the transmission shop and told them in complete detail that the bogging is not the throttle and since they replaced the pressure switch they need to also replace the wire harness as well to make sure the wires are not getting pinched. So I am now sitting here at home waiting for the transmission shop to call and say my car is ready and we will see how it runs then.
  • irv77irv77 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I am having the same exact issues and I haven taken the same staps to correct the issue . Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • irv77irv77 Member Posts: 2
    When turning through an intersection or parking the engine will shut off. We put in neutral to restart and continue on. It idles really rough as well but does not turn off.
  • mjb43mjb43 Member Posts: 4
    I highly reccomend that you purchase the chiltens(i think thats what its called) car manual for your make and yr. You can get it at a auto parts store. In there it will tell you how to clean the throtle body on your car. It cost us $5 and an hour of our time to fix. It hasn't stalled since. Good luck.
  • bmsl14369bmsl14369 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Tahoe and within the past week it has started to act up! In recent years, we have had problems with the battery as well as the electrical system. This week while driving my kids to and from school, it has been shutting off and restarting all within a matter of seconds. This happens while I am driving, I am actually pushing down on the gas pedal. All the gauage needles react, the clock resets, anything electrical reacts to this stopping and restarting. I took it in to get the oil change and asked them to check and see if they could find anything wrong. Of course, NOTHING!! He did however mention the PCM, saying it could be that. Has anyone else had this problem? What can I do to fix it?
  • gmlikesjapangmlikesjapan Member Posts: 21
    I've heard people describe similar events & then find that one of the cables to the battery was damaged .let us know what you find . Good luck .
  • jclane1104jclane1104 Member Posts: 1
    did you find any answers for your problem? my 2004 suburban had a fuel leak in november, dealer replaced fuel pump, picked up dec 14th and ever since then, it has shut off going down the road, everything dies, sometimes just for a few seconds and sometimes completely shuts down where i have to turn key off and crank back up.. ive had it at dealer 6+ times since and they are telling me it's just out of gas! please help, if you have any advice at all. i am scared to go pick it up, knowing it is not fixed..
  • kateb1kateb1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe that's been shutting off for a second or two when I hit a bump. The door locks cycle, the ABS lights come on and the display says "service brake system", sometimes the check engine light comes on. The display reads that I have about 30 miles I can travel on a full tank. Occassionally the display pops up with "reduced engine power" and then I have to shut it off and wait a few minutes before restarting, but then it runs fine...until the next bump. We checked fuses, battery connections and cables, replaced the PCM, the crankshaft position sensor and ignition switch. I finally found a thread that fixed my problem and I've copied it below. Hopefully this will help.

    His solution:
    There is a thin ground wire located on the back side of the engine block. It is on the passenger side and you have to remove the plastic engine cover to find it. The connection at the block is a bolted ring lug. This connection was loose on the Tahoe of the guy giving me this information. He moved the connection to terminate with the braided ground strap that connects at the firewall on the drivers side of the engine. He claimed this solved all his problems.
    I checked the ground wire on my truck and it was tight. I removed the bolt, cleaned the surfaces and re-installed the ground wire. I was recharging the battery during this time. I also checked all the other wires I could to ensure none were loose. The wire bundles I did come across in the engine compartment, under the dash and in the steering column I moved around as best I could on the chance there may be a chaffed wire somewhere causing a short.

    After completing the battery hook-up I tried to start the truck and found it started right up. This was done on 2/21 and the intermittent electrical gremlins have not returned. After starting the truck I drove it over some of the roughest roads in the area trying to make it hiccup again but it did not repeat itself.

    The truck has started up each time since then.
    I know it seems questionable whether one small ground wire/connection could be the source of the problems but the results cannot be argued. If you are having similar issues with your truck you can't lose looking at this solution before tossing hundreds of dollars to your mechanic or more to the dealer.
  • ben_from_texasben_from_texas Member Posts: 1
    FIX: Changed my "crankshaft positioning sensor"(CPS).

    I had two separate issues hit at the same time. First was bad fuel pump. 2002 Chevy Tahoe acted like it ran out of fuel. Changed fuel filter myself but had mechanic do fuel pump ($340.00). Then while driving next day Tahoe just shut off and would not restart. Next morning it started but just for a short time. Same thing next day. I HATE MESSING WITH THE STARTER. But guess where the CPS is located...yep right above the starter
  • bigdogmom82bigdogmom82 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2017
    My 2000 Tahoe was running fine until I went into a store, came out then wouldn't start. Nothing. The battery is fine since I can charge my phone, but there was a beeping noise that seems to be coming from the inside fuse box?! Could this be the alternator? Please help!! :'( Also my heater stopped getting hot, it still blows, but it's cold.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Charging your phone doesn't take much battery power so that's not really an indication that your battery is "good".

    If you can easily jump start your vehicle, then your battery was in fact pretty dead for whatever reason.

    Best thing to do is charge the battery with a slow charger, and once it's up, run the car and either you or someone at the very least put a Voltmeter across the two battery poles. As the engine revs up you should be reading at least something like 13. 7 to 14.2 Volts--somewhere in there. If you're reading 12V or close to that, then the alternator is not charging.

    As for the heater blowing cold, first thing to check there is proper coolant level. If you are low on coolant you won't get warm air.

    If the coolant it up, then check the two heater hoses going into, and coming out of, your heater core. Check them from the engine bay and feel the input hose and the exit hose. If the input is warm and the exit hose cold, then you have a heater core blockage or a bad heater valve. If the input hose is cold, then there must be a restriction in the thermostat or a faulty water pump.

    If both input and output hoses are warm but you still get no warm air in the car, there must be a diverter door under the dash that is stuck.
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