Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Best of Luck
what is going on please send me email at
atiyat_4@hotmail.com
I have been reading all your posts. thanks for all the info. My Town and Cournty 1999 has been great up until recently.
These are the problems I have:
- When van is parked on an incline facing forward, the instrument panel (including gear shift) do not light up. Van does not start. After an hour of tries it will start.
- While driving the instrument panel will shut of, car is still operating, gas, brakes etc. then soon after the panel turns on.
- When parked regularly no incline, put key in to start, turn key all systems good, instrument panel lights up and you hear the electrical system kick in, yet does not turn over, like the stareter has been disabled. You hear only a click. After trying many times like 15 mins it now turns over. Weather conditions cold and raining Van outside all night.
- same as above, jus drove the van, parked it then tried tostart after 30 mins does the same as above , but starts after 2 tries. Van now parked indoors.
- Also while driving when going over 80 kms the gears seem to miss? Had a problem like this before when driving it would not switch gears. My mechanic replaced the Transmission sensor. no it is acting upo again
Question, I read in a forum a month ago about re-soldering the joints around the motherboard? behind the instrument panel.
Does anyone recall this? It was said that this may be the root of my problems. More info on this would be great
Thanks
OJ
I noticed that the passenger front blinker (front right) does not always turn on. somedays it would work as normal you hear a regular noarmal pace ticking sound, then somedays it won't turn on and you hear the fast pace ticking sound that is normally associated with a burnt out light. Yet I just changed the bulb.
Would re-soldering the joints in the circuit board solve all my problems???
OJ
Last night parked the van in the garage so no moisture...Van started right away. On the way to work today the Door locks acted up. While driving the "Door Open" light flickered on and off along with the door locks....
So now all of a sudden the van is possesed
Part of the problem you are describing (instrument panel going out) sounds like it is the broken solder issue. But, I am not sure that the solder problem causes no-start situations or other electrical oddities, like the blinker and door locks. At least, no such problems with my van, which clearly does have a solder issue.
I think it may be a combination of the solder problem and a problem with the Body Control Module (BCM). Neither of those things should wreak havoc on your transmission's ability to shift....
Did you or someone else post any info on the BCM or solder issue? If you did can you send me the link to it so I can read it again? Where is the BCM located?
Thanks OJ
As I stated above, I have yet to address my cracked solder problem. It occurred rarely and for brief times until this September, when it went out for about two weeks before finally working again. Unfortunately, I was just too busy with other things then to deal with it. It tends to behave during the winter months, but once things warm up, it will likely become more temperamental.
I *think* the BCM is located on the firewall in the driver's footwell area. It is a black box with one large wiring harness connected to it.
I hope this works and if so, pass it on to other fourms.
Nukbuk
regards,
Miz
When it cuts out, do all the warning lights on the dash come on , meaning the engine had really died?
Does anything else in the passenger compartment shut down/turn off when this happens? How 'bout the radio? Fan? Do your headlights remain on or do they go off also?
Sometime it does and sometime it does not.
The bulb is god just has issues
Any chance of getting a copy of the video you mention. I tried the link but looks like Comcast doesn't support it anymore. Thanks.
For those that keep asking what works, I believe this does. I myself bought another instrument cluster for around $100. I installed it today after seeing this post. I figured if I replied to the post it would make it easier for the people reading here at the end. If you can't make out the link, here it is.
http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html
if I have any more of the same problem I will post. If I don't, then everything worked great.
I also have an alternator problem that I just found out about too, so I'll be fixing that too.
Good luck to all
Mark
Did you ever find out the problem. I started having this problem yesterday, I was coming up to a stop sign and my 99 Chrysler mini van stalled. I put it in neutral and restarted. It seems to happen with around town driving.
Thanks,
I am hoping to get my car home tomorrow and will be looking at replacing the instrument panel.
The bad news, I never did discover what was causing the problem...sorry...
This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
Looking at his photos, though, all of the trim on the driver side of the dash is removed: Under the steering wheel, over it, and the bezel around the instrument cluster that includes the driver side and center air vents.
I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:
First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:
1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6
2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4
3. B+
4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5
The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:
315
642
Ignition coil resistance specifications:
Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack.
Any other suggestions.