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That is, if the problem you are experiencing is not due to a faulty instrument cluster (see other posts about this). :sick:
Let us know if the van continues to run well for you with the replaced alternator.
My 98 T&C is in the shop with the same problem. He says he went under the fender area where the computer is and barely has to touch the computer and the engine quits. Does this mean maybe my computer is bad as well as the panel circuit board? My panel has been acting funny for 3 or 4 months too with the blinky lights and door lock/unlock going crazy saying a door is ajar. It acts up only occasionally then may do it for a week straight then be fine for a few more weeks. I think it is all connected. Did you get your fixed finally???
your problem along with everyone else's is exactly what I'm experiencing with my 98 town and country. It started about 6 months after I bought the vehicle and I've had it for two years now. I had a problem initially with the ignition locking up and not being able to turn. We started using a hammer to give it a little "help" and that seemed to work. Now for the last year we have had problems with the car starting but dying after 1 or 2 seconds. I changed the battery but the problem persisted. I had the mechanic look at it and they determined it wasn't a problem with the starter. We have had the same problems with the ABS light and the tach and speed lights going dead as well. We still don't have it fixed.
http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html,
to see the pics to repair the Circuit Board, please no more picture requests,
Thanks
Thank you for the information, though!
Now my front blower fan stays on and cannot be controlled, this I put down to a faulty resistor, which I will pick up this afternoon for about 17 bucks from the dealer.
However, there is a draw on my battery and the guy at the local garage said when I
bring it in they will pull the fuses one by one until they find the culprit that is drawing from the battery. After he replaced the negative terminal on the battery, the van attempted to start itself without the keys in it. (Strange, but true).
After I got home, I opened up the fuse box, disconnected the battery terminal, and when i connected back the terminal the van started itself and began to run without putting the keys in the ignition. I did not put it in the garage overnight so we don't all get carbon monoxide poisoning overnight.
Has anyone had this in the past? Is it possible the guy at tires plus knocked something?
Ah! also the van also has an aftermarket alarm system installed by previous owner, but which I don't use. Could this be the culprit? How do I disable this from the system.
Any help or ideas appreciated.
Many thanks
I have a '99 town and country that starting to do the same thing!
Any help would be much appreciated.
Roy
Todd
Thanks,
Marc
roymarko
Thanks,
Rob
My problem is stalling in a 2002 Grand Caravan. It's got 105K miles and dies at stop lights, going around corners and sputters when you put it in reverse. In neutral, the car maintains a constant 1000 RPM. Slide it into drive and apply throttle and it sputters (light surge and bucking) and then stall. It's fine if you press the accelerator (to keep the RPM high) while holding the brake and then slip it into drive. No problems on the highway. No observed decrease in MPG.
It's been in the shop (local shade tree mechanic with 30+ years under the hood) and he's baffled. He's gone thru extensive diagnostics and replaced thermostat, manifold pressure sensor and given it a chemical fuel treatment. NO significant difference. It seems like some sensor is not working... not permitting sufficient fuel to flow when the transmission senses a load on it.
Like all problems, it's tempermental and does not always act up when Mechanic is chasing the problem. It's been acting up since mid May... about 30 days of which it's been in his shop for 15 days.
It's been a solid van.... but at 105K, this might be trade-in time. Any help is appreciated.
Do yourself a favor and get the instrumentation panel, ie... circuit board, its about $400 and make the dealer program it for you. Without a charge, since you have already paid for services/repairs that were not needed.
Fortunately, for me, I had my mechanic do it for free. He happens to work for a Chrysler dealer.
My starting problem has not occured since I changed the board. Good Luck
Miz
:lemon: I have owned a 99 Town & Country Limited for about five years now, which I bought from a family friend with less than 50,000 miles on it. He was selling it because his wife had died and he had no use for her vehicle anymore. I bought it for what the dealer was going to give him on a trade for his new car. I have always had reservations about owning Chrysler products due to the horror stories that I have heard throughout my life. I decided to purchase this vehicle due to the immaculate condition of the vehicle and knowledge of the owner and ownership history. It was a local car and was completely serviced by our local dealer. On the day I went over to pick it up from our family friend, it started and stalled numerous times. It finally wouldn’t do anything so we had it towed to the dealer and was fixed under warranty. Needless to say this problem persisted time after time, sometimes not reoccurring for months, each time the dealership stating and reassuring me that, "They found the problem this time", each time tying it to a different part that they would replace under the warranty. The problems were always the same, the car wouldn’t start at times, the dash lights and gauges were inoperable at times, the car would stall or want to die while driving, and numerous times the entire dash would go completely blank. Then my warranty expired. I was now the recipient of each consecutive problem, diagnosis, and replaced part to the tune of Thousands of dollars, not unlike the stories that I have read on many blogs throughout the years. Believe it or not I still own the car. My thought was to get it running right and sell it with a clear conscience. I would never want to sell a car with this problem to someone else. I spoke to the dealership and the owner of the dealership who knows the car well and they stated that I should trade it in with them for a new vehicle. He also stated that he wouldn't be able to give me anything for it with its history. I was amazed that he would acknowledge this to me personally, the Owner of the dealership. He did say that trading it would be the best way to handle this situation. The only problem with this is that I wouldn't own another Chrysler product. As I have been sitting here reading through all of the blogs looking for an answer to my problem, I see my vehicles signs and symptoms duplicated over and over. I have thought about all of the people out there who, like me, have spent thousands and thousands of dollars of their hard earned money, not fixing anything, all with one hope in mind...That the car they bought in good faith would just do what it was designed to do, get them where they need to go. I, my wife and our now four children have been stranded, terrified and bilked out of much of our precious time and money. I have tried to resolve this issue with the dealership and with Chrysler directly. Chrysler either refers you to the dealerships, which are all independently owned and operated, or just hangs up on you. I have documented all of these instances with emails, phone calls, and recommendations from my own mechanic who is probably one of the best mechanics that I have run into in my personal 25 years of owning cars. He had to take it to the dealership himself because he couldn't figure out why the car would stay running after removing the entire key and ignition from the vehicle. He told me that the power to the ignition is back feeding itself from one or more locations for this to even be possible. He also stated that in all of his years of being a mechanic, he has never seen this. I have replaced the PCM, ECM, the fuse box, control panel, instrument panel gauge set, battery, ignition, wiper motor, and clock spring, sometimes more than once, and had the vehicle evaluated numerous times. My mechanic said that the wiring harness should be replaced, but stated that he is not sure if that would ensure the problem would be fixed due to the numerous electrical abnormalities that he has found with the wiring of the vehicle. I believe that Chrysler is well aware of these problems and refuses to acknowledge them due to the ton of revenue that it produces for them on an annual basis from each of us, and the insurmountable amount of money that it would cost them for the recall. I would love to find an attorney firm or group who would be willing to take the case and a thousand or so helpless victims that would band together and get what we all originally wanted...a vehicle that would drive with normal maintenance and the average occasional item that would go wrong that needed to be repaired. If anyone reads this and would like to send me your information, I will reciprocate and maybe we can get something done for everyone of us who has been misled, misdiagnosed, and overcharged for parts and labor we never needed and so ultimately our voices can finally be heard. For all of those who think they have fixed their vehicle because it’s been running fine for 6-8 weeks, I have had a month or two, sometimes three between shutoffs and stalls and now after five years it will just stop whenever it feels the need. They call it an intermittent electrical problem that they are “unable to duplicate”, however, they always get their diagnostic and parts and labor fees, even when they can't give you a diagnosis, and haven’t fixed the problem. How crazy is that. Could any of us run a business like that??? Best of Luck to all of you who seek a remedy to your continuous ongoing problems.