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Comments
Now that they've re-opened the national forests around here, perhaps I'll take the Sport out for a run this weekend.
I doubt very seriously if using 89 Octane vs 87 Octane for one tank of gas would void your warranty, and it CERTAINLY would not harm the engine. I don't blame you for being very careful about maintaining the warranty, though.
Mac24?????? Please jump in here!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
However, I'm not saying that's the situation in your case. If you truly have a mechanical or electrical problem that's causing this, then your warranty will take care of it. If necessary go to another dealer.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
A group from the Firewalker Jeep Club was down from northern IL and southern WI to wheel at Turkey Bay. They only make it to Turkey Bay once a year, due to the long drive. (It was eight hours for those from WI.) There's no way they could know the fun spots by only coming once a year, so I volunteered to trail guide for those folks.
I had three of my regular buds with me, and there were ten Firewalker rigs, so we had a group of 14.
I showed them Dogleg Hollow and Buttpucker Gulch. They absolutely loved both of those spots, especially BP Gulch. We spent most of the afternoon at just those two spots, since almost all of those guys wanted to run BP Gulch.
My bud, Mike, who does such a great job of spotting me through BP Gulch did the honors for those Firewalker guys. He did his usual good job, but one Jeep dropped the left side tires down into the gully, and it took a LONG time and three winches to get him out without damaging his Jeep. The guy got a little "ahead" of the spotter, and he guessed wrong.
Those folks were so grateful for the trail guiding and the spotting that they gave Mike and I each a Firewalker T-shirt, and they bought our evening meal at a local restaurant. Now those people were CLASSY! Thanks, Firewalkers! I thoroughly enjoyed wheelin' with you guys.
Here's a pic of our lunchbreak on the trail. There are some folks that were outside the field of view of the camera, but this is most of the group. These folks know how to have fun!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Steve, Host
There will always be dealers that lack the skill or inclination to solve anything but the most simple of problems. However, there will also be dealers that will bend over backwards to help you. Make sure you reward both types with as much publicity as possible about their quality of service!
This is why the octane rating is important, isn't it? The higher octane rating means the gas is a little harder to ignite, so when it goes, it goes all at once.
If the gas is OK, then the timing is too far advanced, and you are getting ignition too long before the piston reaches TDC (top dead center). There is some ideal time for ignition before the piston ever reaches the top of its travel, right? If you get the spark too soon, you don't have all the compression yet.
The ignition timing is computer controlled nowadays, and has been for a long time, right?
Mac, please, please give us some details on the stuff I was just talking about, and straighten me out if I have some of this wrong.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Most of them loosened just fine but two of them stripped before loosening. Both the stripped bolts are the painted flush kind but I bet you guessed that.
What should I do to get them off? I know Sears makes some kind of stripped bolt removal kit. Is it worth the money? I've heard the phrase "drill it out" but I've never done that before and don't want to just figure it out on my Jeep's exterior. How do you drill it out without damaging the threads into which the bolt is screwed?
Thanks again for your help with the basic stuff.
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
Good luck!
-Paul
I guess this is the kind of thing you have to deal with when you buy something as tough as a Jeep!
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
The reason I wonder is that with my '98 Sport, I first thought it sounded like a soft valve-lifter tick or something like that, since I heard it at higher speeds/harder acceleration (at first). As time went on (and I didn't do anything about it) it became obvious what it really was - the exhaust manifold.
One interesting thing I notice on these 2 vehicles is that they are both 5 speeds.
I hope both of you elevate this issue to the area rep level, and let us know what the final outcome is. There is nothing worse than listening to tapping, tinging, rattling etc. in a new vehicle.
Hope I don't have the same problem when I get 10,000 miles on my Unlimited.
the one i did get out appeared to have locktite on it. if they are going to make them so they won't ever come apart, why not weld them? (I'm joking, don't want welds all over my jeep)
jeff
Should be fun!
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
On some engines (not Jeep), there is a knock sensor that signals the computer to retard the ignition timing if pre-ignition is occurring. Fuel injection timing can have a small effect and can be altered by rotating the Camshaft Position Sensor. This shouldn't be done without the appropriate diagnostic equipment though.
Bottom line is that it's a warranty problem, that needs to be taken care of by DC through one of their dealers.
-Paul
-Brian
My Thelma Jane had the factory 30" tire package and the 3.73 gearing, so I know how that feels, but I have never driven a Rubi.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
You will definitely notice a difference in capabilities offroad.
If you are wanting a capable offroad rig, then start with the Rubi. You'd just end up modding your Jeep to have that kind of capability anyway. Any difference in ride quality will be very small.
Keep in mind, the Rubi does start with 31's I believe. The sport has the 30's as an option package. The Rubi comes with Goodyear MTR's - a good offroad tire and one that has good onroad handling - but with perhaps a bit more noise.
-Paul
As was said before, if you are going to be spending money to modify a Sport, just go ahead and get the Rubi - it will work out cheaper. If money is no object, get the Rubi. If you are planning on doing lighter type of off-roading and don't need lockers, then save your money and get the Sport, which is quite capable right out of the box (mine is still stock after all these years).
Good luck and be safe over there brother. I was with RCT-5 (5th Marines) for the opening gambit of the war. I left Iraq in June 2003. I am not a big fan of the Unlimited. I have a 2004 Sahara (just like you I bought it as soon as I returned to Camp Pendleton from Iraq). Either way you decide, you'll love it......
Semper Fi
Jay
I expect to learn a lot from this project.
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
-Paul
As an aside, for my next mod I'm thinking about installing seat risers. Starting in '03 they dropped the seat height an inch to facilitate entry/egress, but I think I would enjoy being taller in the saddle.
;--)
Randy Buchanan
Buchanan Precision Machine
buchananprec@earthlink.net
(805) 642 - 1376
When the '03 models came out they lowered the seats by 1.5". I've no personal experience with this product, but I've read good things from people who have.
There's a similar product using plastic blocks here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=7930959967&category=33701
I read a post elsewhere that was saying that DC has different versions of the ECM program that they can reflash the ECM with.
It is my understanding that ignition timing and fuel/air mixture is controlled through the ECM, and the programming is written in such a way as to minimize emissions.
I also understand that some of the versions of the software lead to pinging by going too far in the direction of lowering emissions.
Mac????? We REALLY need you on this one. What can you tell us?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The PCM does a variety of jobs, and all at the same time. Amongst other things, it controls the charging rate of the alternator, the readings that the gauges display, the maximum the engine can rev to, the lockup of the torque converter, the idle speed, etc., etc. It receives inputs from sensors that tell it what position the crankshaft is in, what position the camshaft is in, what the oxygen content of the exhaust gas is both before and after the catalytic converter, what position the throttle is in etc., etc.
The PCM has to constantly evaluate all this information (and more) to keep everything running within pre-determined parameters. As time has passed and the pressure to meet CAFE regs increased, those parameters have got tighter and tighter. If things are getting close to the limits the PCM would now rather err on the side of running lean, which can cause pre-ignition, than leave the mixture as it is and retard the ignition, which would make the engine run better but would increase emissions.
Unfortunately, it's not just a case of reprogramming the PCM to advance the timing. The timing is altered constantly while the engine is running, depending on load, temp, speed, etc,. etc. DC will not allow reprogramming that lets the engine run outside the parameters that keep it within the current CAFE regs. It's all to do with emissions. Whether that means a dollar cost or saving the planet depends on your point of view.
The easiest thing to accomplish with a reflash is something like raising the idle speed when the a/c kicks in. Something very linear and two dimensional.
Finally, I think this is a problem that will become worse with '04 models, and even worse with '05 models. Programming of the '04.5 and '05 PCM has been changed quite radically.
However, a new or properly maintained used engine should not suffer pre-ignition. It's for DC to fix, not for us to live with. One fix is to lower the compression ratio. Unfortunately this decreases the power output and can increase emissions. Makes for a vicious circle.
Is it any wonder I roll my eyes when someone posts that their new air filter/throttle body spacer/exhaust has added 20hp and 5mpg!
Is it snake oil or is there a minor change?
Besides regearing, what can I do to get better onroad performance from the 2.5l 4cyl besides get a 4.0 inline 6?
-Paul
As well as regearing (which is a good option), you can stroke and/or bore the block, add a turbo or supercharger, add nitrous injection............ all of which will have a marked effect.
You truly are DA MAN!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
heh, I bet we're talking about two different posts too, Tom :-)
Steve, Host
What would be the optional gearing for a 31" tire on the 4cyl for highway use (w/o sacrificing offroad creeping)?
-Paul
Is yours an auto or a manual, and what's your present gearing?
-Paul
I'd recommend you get the tires first, or even borrow a set if you know someone willing, and see how it feels on your present setup. I think 4.56 would ultimately be the way to go, but don't go any lower unless you're thinking of going with a much larger tire size in the future.
Once I have my Jeep here where I live now, I'll see how it does (much lower elevation than the 2000+ feet in California).
My thought was the OME 2-2.5" lift with 31's. Would you recommend the steering stabilizer or torsion bars for this setup?
-Paul
http://www.golenengineservice.com/displayEngine2.cfm?EngineID=99 . I especially like the wide torque curve-over 200 lb/ft is on tap from 1500 to 5400 rpm.
-twylie