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Comments
http://www.golenengineservice.com/displayEngine2.cfm?EngineID=100
It's almost a shame that the standard 4.0 takes so long to wear out!
:--)
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
-Paul
-twylie
I'm learning more every day about this stuff! This is cool!
-Paul
An alternative for the rear is the OME trackbar relocation bracket. Some people have had problems with the bolts coming loose, but it's been fine for me for years. Other manufacturers, including those mentioned, also make a bracket.
At the front, I re-drilled the trackbar location hole, then welded a reinforcing plate over it (I'm cheap!). Just remember the carpentry rule........measure twice and cut (or drill) once!
But all of you said I should talk to the dealership that I bought it from (who were really great to deal with - they almost instantly gave me a reasonable price through emails so it was painless - the way I like it because then I lose my temper too quickly when dealers start playing games). Well, I did and I just got an email back saying that Jeep Corporate honored the coupon and I'll be getting a check shortly.
Maybe I should hold my breath until I actually see the check, but I do have it in writing and so far they have delivered everything they said they would. Am I ever delighted - I have a vehicle I love, and I'm getting an extra little bit back. And it's all because you guys said I should check it out - so THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
However, I'm glad to see you here as I was beginning to think I broke the forum with my last post. It went very quiet!
:--)
I just about KNEW that Jeep would feel obligated to honor that certificate. Think how BAD the PR would have been, if they had NOT honored it!
If I'm not mistaken, I was the first who posted and said that you should not give up without at least checking with the dealer. So, I know that you will want to do the right thing and split that $500 with me. My address is .....
Just kidding, of course, Harriet. Spend that money on some mods!
Gettin' ready to head for Land Between the Lakes and Turkey Bay OHV Area! This is Saturday, and we all know what the Old Tomster does on Saturdays.
Now that Paul (erickpl) is relocating to Huntsville, AL, he will be wheelin' with me real often. His Jeep is still in CA right now, but it won't be long before he will be re-united with Kermit.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
In many ways I've already spent that money - I got the Alpine head. I can also use it to buy synthetic oil and something to protect the soft top (303? - is this the best or are there any other suggestions?). I've found a car wash that is all hand wash and will do hand waxing. I watched a new BMW convertable go through it, so I think that would work for GiGi.
By the way, is there any minimum temperature that normal (home) wax products and top protectants should be used? I'm not much for do-it-yourself car washes, but with the soft top, I'll probably do more of it than I've done in the past with the hard top. I am not about to spend 4 hours doing multiple steps, so does anyone have suggestions for basic care - like wash and one coat of something for protection? It's been cold up here, even during the day now, so if these products have minimum temperatures I might not go much home-care until spring.
Black is such a common color and it just looks like a Jeep when it's dirty, so I've never bothered all that much with the Sport. Besides, every Saturday when we'd get it washed was followed by some off-roading on Sunday. But this green is SO unique, and it looks so sharp when it is clean, and we aren't off-roading it much, so now I'm more interested in keeping it nice.
~Froggi
http://www.geocities.com/nerockcrawlers/turbodiesel.html
...............and a couple of pics from the SEMA show:
-Paul
I think the worst case scenario is that we end up simply drilling the bolts out and in doing so damage the threads machined into the pillar. What do I do if that happens? Is it body shop time? This could wind up being a very expensive roof rack...
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
Try drilling a smallish hole through the wider (edge) part of the bolt. Do not try drilling through the core of the bolt itself, but do not do it at the very edge either (probably halfway between the center and the edge of the bolt as you look at it from the top/outside). I hope that makes some sense. The flange/tapered area seems a bit softer than the core of the bolt, so drilling this hole should be a bit easier than trying to go down the middle.
The bolt is a countersunk design (so that if you look at it from the side when it is out, the outer edge that is painted is widest and it narrows as it goes further in. Drilling a hole that goes through the tapered part, but not through the core of the bolt will give you a point to stick something in there and help turn it.
Once you have a hole through this thinner area, shoot some WD40 or some type of penetration oil to loosen up any binding. Then use an awl / holepunch / whatever that fits into that hole and pound it at an angle such that the force will eventually turn the bolt in the direction to remove it. Make sure it is a strong piece of metal (not a screwdriver). Use something designed to be hit.
Good luck. From experience, the dremel method may or may not work. Like Mac said, a screwdriver isn't really meant for high torque jobs, and this will definitely be that.
-Paul
I'm thinking more about the doomsday scenario. I guess I could bolt the brackets on with the 5 bolts that came loose and then have someone weld something into the other three locations. I don't plan to take the rack off anyway.
I still haven't lost hope, just considering the alternatives.
Yours in Torx Frustration,
Dave
When using an EZ-Out you should drill the bolt out as much as possible, so as to be able to use the largest EZ-Out bit possible. With the bolt hollowed out, heat will be even more effective in melting the threadlocker.
If you have to drill out the bolt completely, you'll just have to tap a new thread and use a larger bolt, not forgetting to enlarge the clearance holes in the rack and maybe the hinge.
To add to Pauls technique, try using a small cold chisel to rotate the bolt head. Whatever you use, make sure it doesn't jump and skid over your paintwork!
Finally, I would really advise against welding the rack to the body (for many, many reasons).
http://www.projecttj.com/reviews/jeep/wrangler_2005/unlimited_rub- icon_moab/index.asp
-Dan
First Drive: 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Steve, Host
Yours in Torx Frustration,
Dave
For these particular bolts, the intention is only to soften and loosen the threadlocker which is holding them. You don't need as much heat as would be required if they were rusted in. Damage to the paint would be certain in that case, whereas you should be able to do yours without a trace.
Dave
thats like the little boy that cried wolf, a warning that isn't necessary.
jeff
ps,,,, i drove a lexus SUV last weekend, it was the smoothest thing i have ever driven. I'd take one if someone wanted to give me one, I'd sell it and go buy 2 wranglers. the wrangler is the most fun thing i've ever driven. (I know Tom, she still hasn't been off road)
I agree, the most fun vehicle ever. The other night we saw the ad for the new Mustangs (I've owned 2) and I remarked at how sharp it was. My wife asked if I wanted to get one, and I said, no, I love my Rubicon. She said she meant in addition to the Rubicon, "I would never try to seperate you from your Rubicon."
"Good," I said.
Mine comes on with about two gallons left, but I usually fill up when down to a quarter of a tank. Less chance of running out before finding a gas station, and a lot less chance of heat stressing the fuel pump.
jeff
Thaks, Mac, for all the help you have been to all of the rest of us here.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I'm always happy to help, but people, if I give advice, please don't place a higher value on it than you paid!
Just my two cents worth.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks!
The gas gauges are different betwen the '98 Sport and the '04 Unlimited. The Sport's light comes on with about 5 gallons (maybe even a bit more) so I can go a LONG way with it on. I haven't seen it much any more - I won't park at the house (especially in the summer) without at least a quarter tank showing on the gauge. I do that just in case I ever have to evacuate quickly.
I haven't seen the orange in person yet, but I think I would like it. Wranglers look great in bright colors and if you like it, you should get it regardless of what others think. The couple of dealers I talked to about getting mine thought I was crazy to buy the electric green - but I love it. Besides, you'll never have a problem finding your car in a big parking lot (like I did one day at Camp Jeep. Do you know how many black Wranglers of various sorts there are in SoCal!??!).
glad i have my jeep, but when I win the lottery, my other car will be a mustang.
jts
you are lucky, sounds like you may be getting both toys,,
if you have a chance,, go to a jeep 101, they will give you a $500 coupon towards anything but an unlimited.
you won't see it written anywhere on their website or promo's for jeep 101.
you also might want to ask if they still have the $500 rebate through Chrysler financial for taking their financing. I took it, then refi'd 3% lower through my local credit union.
jeff
not sure why the coupons don't apply to the unlimiteds..
I'm anxious to see the Shelby version in a year or two. Should be pretty hot! Like you said Jeff, just waiting for that magic pot at the end of the rainbow. That way, I can have a Jeep and a Mustang
-Dan
if you have a chance,, go to a jeep 101, they will give you a $500 coupon towards anything but an unlimited.
you won't see it written anywhere on their website or promo's for jeep 101.
you also might want to ask if they still have the $500 rebate through Chrysler financial for taking their financing. I took it, then refi'd 3% lower through my local credit union.
jeff
not sure why the coupons don't apply to the unlimiteds..
I drove our Grand Cherokee to work today and it felt really weird. I've been driving the Rubi to work for months. The Grand was liking riding in a Cadillac in comparison. I missed the Rubi.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure where the site is your referring to. Do you have a web address?
Thanks
MEF
(BGK) Antilock brakes have a Job #1 of 11/22/04
(VKX) Black hardtop and (VJX) black soft top have a Job #1 of 12/1/04
(RBQ) AM/FM/CD/6-disc changer on hold - TBD
(VKX) is this just producing them or is it a dual option group for the Unlimited?
Thanks!!!!!
VKX is the hardtop and VJX is the soft top.
Jeeps dealers have never been known to discount left over previous model year Jeeps very much. DC has not been known to give much in the way of incentives either.
Guess they get away with it somehow, but I never did understand how they do it.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?