Recommend Oil, Transmission Fluid, and Tire Pressure

Comments

• circuitsmith Member Posts: 117

  January 2011

  I put in any of the major brand conventional motor oils, 5w-30, whatever is on sale.
  I use Toyota oil filters.
  I bought a few of them and air filter, wiper blade inserts etc. online for cheap.
  The 1zz engine is not particularly prone to sludging.
  It's more important to always have clean oil at the full level than to use synthetic in an engine that doesn't call for it.
  Change the trans fluid every 30k miles. Use the trans fluid type called for in the Owner's Manual.
  I run 36psi front and 32psi rear.
  This makes the steering more responsive without making the ride harsh in the rear.
  
  If you're looking to get ahead of the maintenance game for long life here's a few things to do:
  Repeat: change the trans fluid/oil every 30k miles.
  My manual trans oil looked pretty dark at 21k miles.
  Change the brake fluid every 3 years.
  Change the coolant and thermostat every 5 years / 50k miles.
  Change the spark plugs and check the valve lash every 50k miles.
  Once a year drain and refill the power steering reservoir.

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• capriracer Member Posts: 907

  January 2011 edited January 2011

  So the dealer has a sheet that contradicts the vehicle manufacturer's tire inflation pressure recommendation? Unless it is a technical service bulletin from the manufacturer, I would tend to ignore any unfounded recommendation the dealer might make.
  
  However, the difference is small and not enough to affect the tire wear - particularly compared to the other things that can cause tires to wear unevenly - such as camber.
  
  And Matrix's (or is that Matrices?) have a lot of built in camber - and excessive camber can cause irregular tire wear. I'd recommend you have an alignment tech dial out as much of the camber as he can (this may require a plate - at additional cost). Do NOT go to the dealer to do this as he will put the car at the factory specs - and it's the factory specs that are faulty. I'm pretty sure when they change production plants, they changed the alignment. so the later models do not have as much of a problem with irregular wear - and what info I have says they did not change tire pressure recommendations.
  
  On the other hand, it's possible that the dealer is recommending the inflation pressure increase to delay the appearance of irregular wear (that is caused by the camber.) But that is only delaying when it surfaces.

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• lubeexpert Member Posts: 16

  January 2011

  Greetings, I just saw your questions today & wanted to reply. I own a 2003 Vibe (aka: Matrix) which currently has 70,000+ miles. I purchased it used, as-is/no warranty with 30,000 miles in '06. 2 days after I got it, I did a complete Engine flush on it & yes there was a LOT of sludge in it. Then I installed AMSOIL 0W-30 (SSO) Motor Oil & AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter. Then, the following week I had the Tranny flushed & AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle ATF installed. (This procedure does require a new filter & pan gasket).
  To date, it has performed like a Indy race car & NO MORE SLUDGE! I change the Motor Oil & Filter only once a year & the Tranny's ATF is good for 100,000 miles. I have decided to futher extend the Oil/Filter change interval to once every 18 months, as even after a full year the Oil looks like new, as if it came out of a newly opened bottle. (I do the Engine flush @ each change as part of my regular maintainence, using a cheap/low-priced Filter for the flushing process). My Vibe's MPG is 42 HWY. & 30-32 CTY./Country.
  Products used:
  AMSOIL Engine & Transmission Flush
  Walmart Supertech Oil Filter (for the flushing process ONLY)
  AMSOIL 0W-30 (SSO) Motor Oil
  AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (Filters down to & including 3 Microns)
  Wix Air Filter
  AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle ATF
  AMSOIL Anti-Freeze/Coolent
  AMSOIL Performance Improver (PI) Gasoline Fuel Additive

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• lubeexpert Member Posts: 16

  January 2011

  I am replying to the statement you made: "It's more important to always have clean oil at the full level then to use synthetic in an engine that doesn't call for it."
  I could not disagree more. You see, conventional/petroleum oil is full of paraffins & other contaminants which are not removed during the refining. It's those contaminants that make sludge as the lighter chemicals in petro. oil evaperate. Quality synthetics do not contain these impurities & therefore do not make sludge. Plus, there are many benefits & advantages to synthetics. Truth is, you may put clean petro oil in, but you're putting it in a dirty engine!

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• circuitsmith Member Posts: 117

  January 2011 edited January 2011

  Let me guess...you're an AMSOIL dealer?
  
  I've seen the inside of my '88 Accord engine with over 200k miles of conventional oil (for valve adjustments) and there was not a trace of sludge.
  I sold it at 219k miles and it didn't burn any oil.
  
  I disagree with your recommendation to use anything but the manufacturer's recommended transmission fluid.

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• lubeexpert Member Posts: 16

  January 2011

  You are correct. I have been an AMSOIL Dealer since 1985. As for conventional vs. synthetic oil, there are a number of other factors to consider, for example Synthetic Oils (& Lubes) have the following benifits:
  1- Greatly reduced parts wear,
  2- Improved fuel economy,
  3- Increased HP, Torque, Performance, Lower operating/running temperature, Faster warm-ups, no oil stravation in cold temps due to thick oil, etc.
  4- Extended drain/change intervals.
  I didn't recommend using only manufactures ATF, you must have seen that on someone elses' posting. Rather, I do recommend the correct AMSOIL Transmission Fluid.

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• circuitsmith Member Posts: 117

  January 2011 edited January 2011

  Correction:
  
  I disagree with your recommendation to use anything OTHER THAN the manufacturer's recommended transmission fluid.
  
  Faster warm-ups? Pure baloney!

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• lubeexpert Member Posts: 16

  January 2011 edited January 2011

  With respect, it's obvious you don't know or understand the properties of synthetics. Because synthetics are much more efficent at conducting & disapating heat, it takes less time for an engine to reach normal temperature. As for Trannys, I run AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle ATF & currently have 41,000 miles on it. It still looks new, as if it were just installed today. (AMSOIL ATF is good for 100,000 miles).

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