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Comments
There's no need to allow the RPM to "normalize" before switching into gear. As soon as you go into gear, the engine drops to its normal idling RPM or slightly above. Don't speed off on a stone cold engine, but that's just common sense.
My Fiesta generally runs at about 1300 RPM on days like today (-20F) even after 15-20 minutes of use, but I'm okay with that because I can sit in a warm (room temp) interior rather than one that is closer to 30F like my old car. Selfish, I know, but it still nets me over 30 mpg.
NASIOC airbag sensor thread
Thanks
I hear what you're saying, but now the game has changed a lot with drive-by-wire. No hinky mechanicals to worry about, and I don't see for the life of me why the dealer couldn't do it for $50 and charge $250.
Some of us don't want tinted windows and are happy with steel wheels to use for our winter rubber...
Cheers -Mathias
BTW, they are way overdue for the 1st rotation. :surprise:
195/55-17 would be close in diameter, but is a narrower tire with minimal gain in sidewall height. 205/55-17 may be OK, if it fits.
You need to drop to a 16" wheel to gain meaningful sidewall height without changing the overall diameter.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
That calculator is very useful.
My gas gauge quit working 4000 miles ago and my mpg dropped by 7 miles. I took it in for service and they cleaned the sensor. the gas gauge worked again but my mpg is still 27 average. should be 33. Upset and now my gas gauge quit working again. Help!!! I am calling service in the morning. They argued with me about the gas mileage. Don't want to go back:(
I used a spreadsheet to track my average and winter MPG was 2 lower than even the summer when I crank the AC.
I'm not terribly worried because I was planning my oil change for march because I'm at ~7200 miles since the last oil change.
However, for me this is a warning to change oil @ 7000 miles, not 7500.
Make sure, since its easy to see, that your oil filter is part 15208AA160 ( as listed in the manual)
I'm revisting this question. I bought several of the PN...160 oil filters listed here, and they do not seem to be a check valve type oil filter. I've changed the oil 3 times, and the last 2 times I've noticed no oil come out of the filter upon removal. The small bowl below the filter remains dry.
So, I'm wondering about whether this filter number is making for dry engine start ups. Anyone look further into this?
John
A properly working check valve will prevent oil from draining out.
In other words, it isn't draining when you remove it because the oil is being retained within the filter. The other option is that the oil has fully drained back down into the pan.
I certainly hope the second option isn't the case! :P
What I'm saying is, I don't believe there is a check valve on this filter. It looks to be a standard filter. And given it's location, that's the wrong type of filter.
John
It seems something that could be fixed with the addition of an appropriate clip during the manufacture process and am interested how it will be addressed when I return for my 1st service...
Just out of interest though...My dash was partly dismantled for the fitment of a factory alarm at the dealership before I took possession of the vehicle and could not be certain the issue was caused then???
when i went into service, i pointed it out to the tech who ended up sticking tons of foam tape inside A-pillar (at least that was he told me) to keep it from moving. i'm not exactly sure how that was done, but it did work and of course, it was prettier than what i had done.