Beaters Out Of Choice, Not Necessity

andre1969 · April 2013

I know that, for the most part, it's a thing of the past, but in the past couple days, I noticed a few oddities that were showing some serious rust. The first was a Buick Century, of 1997-2004 vintage, that looked good for the most part, but the rocker panel on the passenger side appeared to be mostly rust.

Then, on the way to work this morning, I spotted a 1995-99 era Nissan Maxima that had some pretty serious rot in the rear right quarter panel.

Now, to be fair, these are cars that could be as old as 16-18 model years! Still, the rust-out just seems so out-of-place on a car that still looks modern.

michaellno · April 2013

So, you gonna repair or replace, steve?

stever · April 2013

My guess is that it's the timing belt, but I suppose it could be the fuel pump or something else. My mechanic has it and it'll be a while before he gets to it.

Will likely get it fixed - told my sister on the phone a few minutes ago that I planned to drive it another ten years. My wife was rolling her eyes during the call.

hpmctorque · April 2013

If it's the timing belt I hope your Quest doesn't have an interference engine.

stever · April 2013

Nope; otherwise I would have replaced it at 105k. I did the one in the Outback a few years ago; was well under the recommenced miles but over the time limit. That's a nasty one when it breaks.

It's funny that the "same" engines in the Pathfinders of that era were interference, but Ford made Nissan make some changes when they did the Villager/Quest joint venture.

stever · April 2013

Don't even know who this guy is but I like his ride.

Alfred Morris Wont Give Up His Bentley (redskins.com)

Initial report is that it's the timing belt on my van. $400 off the cuff estimate. Going to swing by the shop tomorrow and see about doing the water pump as well and rotate the tires. Would like to drive it to Chicago in a week but I doubt that it'll be ready in time. Oh well, the Subaru will be easier to park in town there and will get a bit better gas mileage. Just not as comfortable driving it all day.

stever · May 2013

Final bill was $575, including the $50 tow. That includes a new water pump.

stever · June 2013

fintail · June 2013

You're in LA now? Also, wash that thing :P

andre1969 · June 2013

A few years ago, somebody put one of those "junk cars hauled away free" signs on one of the telephone poles out in front of my yard. I always wondered if it was coincidental, or if they were trying to give me a hint!

stever · June 2013

Just grabbed from a Twitter post but thought it was funny.

fintail · June 2013

Those scrappers generate huge amount of spam texts which have landed some in trouble, also generate about half the posts on the local craigslist "wanted" section.

stever · June 2013

I've been reading CL the last week or so and have noticed a lot fewer car dealer ads. Then I read that Craig changed the terms of use and cut off a lot of the automatic uploading.

Some good runners up here. :-)

fintail · June 2013

I can see the rust, but it looks straight enough and complete, bargain. Never as cheap out here, but they age better.

lemko · June 2013

Oh, these scumbags plaster the entire 'hood with these ugly things known as "bandit signs." Those signs are illegal and the city is supposed to fine them $300 a piece! Of course, L&I does nothing about it. You will see anything like two to six of them on every utility pole on the block! There are not enough junk cars in the entire state to justify how many of the signs I saw on one block. The utility poles were practically wallpapered with them! They're a real eyesore! If you see any, tear them down immediately! :mad:

occupant1 · July 2013

Most every vehicle I've ever owned was a sub-$1500 car, with most under $500. I'm serious. Since 1994 I've owned somewhere close to 70 vehicles and I just buy them, nurse them back to roadworthiness, drive them for awhile, and if they still run I'll sell them and if they don't I'll scrap them.

I don't see the point in spending twenty, thirty, forty or more thousand dollars on a car. Any car. There is no vehicular NEED to spend that much money.

Need a cheap high mileage commuter car? I recently bid on and got a 2001 Cavalier at a local impound auction for $475, spent $300 making it drive right (fresh battery and cables, radio re-wiring, a couple fuses and a lot of time hunting down a dead short in the defogger circuit, two used tires, fresh oils/fluids and filters), and that's a 30+ mpg car right there. Sold it for darn near what I had in it ($700) a few months later when it started having more electrical problems than I could chase easily.

Want something sporty and stylish for a young single? You can spend $3000 or less and get a real peach of a deal on something ten years old. A Tiburon GT, Focus SVT, Ion Redline, or even a Camry Solara with a V6.

Got a big family? You're not going to get any better mileage in a new Suburban than an old one. My 2000 Suburban cost $3100 on eBay last year and it's already had 20K more put on it in that time, cross country and interstate road trips, tons of running around town, taking kids to and from, hauling pig feed, it's done everything. I put a transmission in it though. It's also had $1100 in new tires and a fuel pump and a belt tensioner. Just think, if we had spent $10,000 to get a newer 05-06 Suburban we might have had to make those same repairs during this time, and we wouldn't have been able to afford it. If we got a new one it would all be under warranty (except tires but they'd have been new to begin with) but we would have already spent the same $7000 easily in payments since then, and we'd still owe well over $30K on the thing and be upside down on the loan I'm sure.

Any new car you can consider, there is a five or ten year old equivalent of it. Want a new Kia Optima EX? That'll be $24K please. How about a 2007 model with 150K already on it for $4K? I know which one I'd pick. Save that twenty grand and buy your wife something nice, take her on a cruise, or pay for a couple semesters of college for one of your kids. Want a new crew cab half ton Ford pickup? That'll be $35K please. Why not get a 2009 model which is almost as nice but will cost half as much? You can either pay it off sooner or spend half as much per month. Or look at 2004-2006 models and pay cash, $8000-$10000 or so will get it done. A truck is a truck, people, you don't have to spend "house" money on one!

fintail · July 2013

You have a fun strategy that can double as a hobby. Most people aren't so handy at performing repairs, and many aren't as willing to drive something that might not be pretty. But if you can make it work, more power to you.

In my area anyway though, you aren't going to get a nice Camry or SVT Focus etc for 3K, unless it has a branded title or a lot of defects. Used cars don't seem to be as cheap as in the past, at least in the PNW.

A similar used - almost as nice for a fraction of the price - strategy can apply to highline cars as well. Want a nice S-class, new MSRP 115K? You can get a loaded 07 model that is virtually identical save for a few light assemblies, for 35K - with an aftermarket warranty. Look rich and travel with first class amenities and comfort for normal money.

hpmctorque · July 2013

Interesting examples and philosophy. I believe the best used car values can most frequently be gotten from private sellers. I've bought about half my cars new and half used, including for my children, over the years. Of the used ones, some have been from new car dealers and some from individuals. Aside from the legitimate profits that dealers must earn, I don't like the fact that they throw away or don't provide any maintenance and repair records the previous owner(s) may have kept.

Several years ago I made a checklist of things I look for, and it begins with only considering original owner cars from people who have kept decent, though not necessarily meticulous, records. It provides some comfort to be able to meet and speak with the seller.

Beaters Out Of Choice, Not Necessity

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