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2011 Subaru Outback brake, vibration and other issues

brydonkbrydonk Member Posts: 2
in Subaru
I bought a 2011 4 cyl Premium PKG Subaru Outback and with a few hundred mile on it the problems began. First it was a horrible in the dash - also the brake peddle began "clunking" when released - I mean REALLY a step on brake, take foot off brake peddle and "clunk". Then it developed a horrible vibration (rough idle) and at one point when picking the car up from a trip to my dealer, got into it, drove out the drive way and the check engine light came on and the car shook as if in an earthquaks. Drove it right back, the service guys freaked out a bit and again I went home with a loaner. Re: the brake, once I was told it some some kind of a clip which was adjusted, then it was a piston of somesort which was replaced - wouuld be better for a few days, then "clunk" I was told that the dealer would work directlt with "Subaru". the major shaking problem with identified as a vaccum leak in the brake booster from which oil ended up in the spark plugs - this brake booster was replace twice - never fixed the problem. Re: the vibration, they have no idea either - tbhey have performed reflashes to stop vehicle idle fluxation - still does it, The car also tends to "lurch" forward when you accellerate from a stop to go or vice versa.

My car has spent months with the dealership. I have been extremely nice, but adadament that my problems exist - they now act like I am a crazy person.

Does anyone here know of issues like mine? I am at a point where I loved the car - now hate it.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,796
    That sounds like the true definition of a lemon! They do happen once in a while. If your car has spent that much time in the shop, have you asked them to simply give you a different car? Have you insisted that they do this? Generally, after the third unsuccessful attempt to fix the same problem, your state's lemon laws can be invoked.

    I know this suggestion doesn't make it any better; it is simply another option to consider rather than the continued headache of serious gremlins. At this point, it sounds like you have likely driven the loaner more than the car your purchased!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    sharlynnesharlynne Member Posts: 7
    Bought a 2010 Outback that vibrates like a washing machine on spin cycle when you are in idle..Then it will try to die out and shake... I bought it 4 months ago and tomorrow will be my forth trip back to the dealer... It is worse when it's above 70 degrees outside, drive long than 2 hr. on highway or run air conditioner. Any suggestiions? :cry:
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,796
    How many miles are on it? Is your "check engine" light on?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    sharlynnesharlynne Member Posts: 7
    No engine light is not on... 25K miles. I bought it with 19K mi on it 4 months ago. The mechanic at the dealer witnessed it, passengers in the car with me commented on the vibration.. It gets worse as the outside temps get above 65 degrees. I bought the car in Late Oct. 40 degrees out and dry...it ran perfect. Once it started getting hot and you used the air conditioner it started this vibration in idle. And it trys to stall out if you've been driving at highway speeds the car gets worse..shakes and really acts like ti will stall.. So you have to keep foot on break and give it some gas at a long light or it will die. It goes in to dealer for the forth time tomorrow... I am very unhappy with this car..Lemon... I own a Toyota Avalon with 145K miles that's 12 years old and still runs perfect... sigh...should have bought another Toyota.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,796
    Okay; with that few miles, there's little chance there is a spark issue. That said, I would do three things (at the same time): 1. Check to make sure the cam, crank, and knock sensors are all firmly connected. 2. Disconnect and reattach the mass airflow sensor; perhaps also spray the sensor itself (inside the intake plumbing) with a sensor-safe cleaner. 3. Disconnect the battery for ~30 minutes, or disconnect and depress the brake pedal for a few seconds, to reset the ECU memory.

    That aside, if you have taken it in to the dealer several times with no resolution, it does fall into the lemon category - every manufacturer has them, it's just a matter of who is unfortunate enough to end up owning that particular specimen. :cry: Definitely look into your state's laws on the subject in order to fully consider your options.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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