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However, I have recently started testing my fuel at the stations I have been using, and I have found them all to be Ethanol free in both the 87 and 91 octanes I have used. I have not seen any marked fuel efficiency difference between the two octane ratings.
I have identified a station nearby that sells 94 octane which I tested the other day as having 7.5% Ethanol in the mix. I will try that or perhaps some 10% if I can find it.
I don't know if it will make much difference, but I have seen on some F150 Ecoboost forums, some owners claim a significant difference. I will only believe it when I test it myself.
If the difference is a few % then big deal. If the difference is more significant, then it may help explain some of the challenges that some are experiencing.
I will let you what I find.
Avg. MPG 20.5/20.5
Distance – 11.9/9.9 miles
Avg no idle speed – 28/28 mph
Avg with idle speed – 19/20 mph
Max speed – 48/48 mph
Fuel Flow avg – 0.8/0.8 galph
Fuel Flow max – 4.8/4.8 galph
My driving style was extremely conservative, making sure to avoid turbo boost if possible during the trips and as you can see the vehicle is delivering pretty close to the EPA city number, which for this configuration is 21/28. I still have not taken a long all highway trip in order to measure those numbers. I will publish them once I do.
So, does Ford deliver what it says? In a way, yes, but the way you have to drive the car in order to make the numbers sure takes away from the fun that driving this vehicle brings when you step on it. I guess we can’t have the best of all worlds in one package just yet. I still think the car is a blast, fun to drive car.
Ford had the best of both. The Escape Hybrid 2005-2012 has both power and excellent fuel economy (especially city). It was more expensive on the initial purchase, but other than that it is a great vehicle.
I suppose Ford could have put a hybrid option in the 2013, but I suspect they chose to use the batteries for the C-max.
Also just about every grade of octane gas on the market contains 10% ethanol unless the gas retailer chooses not to include it in the formula with the other fuel additives.
I think the reason for the discussion, is to understand that the EPA uses one type of fuel for their testing (as would Ford, and then it goes on the window sticker) and we need to use something different. Perhaps these Ecoboosts are more sensitive to fuel additives, such as Ethanol. We here on the forum don't know for sure, but it is a discussion point. With some owners seeing very good mileage and others are struggling, despite their best efforts, MAYBE fuel is playing a partial role in this. I have the luxury of finding pretty much any kind of fuel I want to where I live, so I am doing my own tests to see if I can add anything on that front.
I have started testing the fuel at my local stations, just so i know what I am putting in the tank.
When the sticker at the pump says that the fuel "may contain up to 10% Ethanol" then it would be good to know. Is it 0%, or 10% or ???
The numbers can sometimes fluctuate depending on the season, the region, the availability etc.
If in fact, some Ecoboost owners are suffering because of what fuel is available locally, then Ford can't control that. That becomes an EPA test standards issue. Ford needs to follow EPA rules which call out indolene as the test fuel.
Hopefully we will figure it out.
If the fuel and its additives make little to no difference, then this whole conversation becomes a moot point.
The auto maker's move comes on the heels of a rash of complaints that some of its vehicles don't deliver the mileage promised by the tests dictated by the federal government. A Department of Energy run website, fueleconomy.gov, lets drivers submit real-world mileage, but contributions are voluntary.
Ford isn't alone in its frustration over the variation between real-world fuel efficiency, rival manufacturers' testing and the Environmental Protection Agency estimates that companies are compelled to cite in their advertising."
Car Makers Try to Tackle Inaccuracies Measuring MPG (WSJ)
The Ford initiative is intended to create a phone app that would actually interpret the data that is read by a device like a SG2.
Also in the summer i (usually daily) drive on a trip that is 6 miles one way..very hilly terrain..so only less than 10 min trip on a 35 mph road, but at least in summer temps car gets right up to temp after only 1 mile. Car is a manual tranny too, and while one aspect of it having fewer parasitic losses than the auto, it also has a lot lower final drive gearing so way higher rpm's than your Escapes here on the forum. As an example, here are some rpm/speeds:
2000 rpm = 43.4 mph (70 kph)
2250 = 50 (80)
2500 = 55 (90)
2750 = 60 (96.6)
2800 = 62.14 (100)
3000 = 65.2 mph (105kph)
I think 75 mph is around 3500 to 3600 revs, if i recall.
Note that my usual speed is always under 60 mph and most commonly is 50 - 55. See my rpms at 50?
You guys in the Escape are probably doing 65 - 70 mph at 2250 or so..
So that has pulled my average down quite a bit.
I always air my tires at about 30-32 fr and rr. OEM says 26 psi fr and rr for a soft ride. I'd rather have the fuel mileage.
Most of trips are quite long..as in not just to the corner store, so my warmups during winter get a full warm up. I am a retired heavy truck driver so I know how to drive to get fuel economy and have lived with having to be patient in traffic and anticipate lights and other traffic around me for quite a few million miles. Sometimes I do really let the CRV rip on a pretty quiet back road and get quite aggressive with it. Burning the carbon off if you like. Sometimes I let it idle to warm up in the winter if there is a half inch of sleet rather than chop away at the windshield. I also will idle it with A/C on in town if need be while I am doing paperwork if I have to. IOW's, my average above is very real-world, but with a distinct bias towards pretty gentle, smooth driving with light progressive tranny shifts and rarely a quick start from stop. Most times I do not have a trailer of course, and rarely have a passenger unless the GF goes with me in my car when we go out, but usually take hers. I do have about 100-150 lb of tools in the car always though, so sort of like having a driver and one passenger with nothing else but a spare tire in it.
I have kept records like this for basically most of vehicles including my bikes (I actually do more miles in a year on the bike than the car) hence the low 12000 miles in 5 years driving above).
When I see fuel miles per gallon average..it just doesn't get any better than than your average in over years and years and seasons and seasons of use till you buy your next car.
For comparisons...but don't hold me to these numbers as I would have to check to be certain, but a couple random examples... FE (in Imperial so 20 % bigger than the US gallon) over life of ownership:
05 CRV AWD stick - 29.73 so far..(24.77 mi/US gal)
87 Pathfinder - an E model, with the very very rare 4 cylinder stick, 4x4 of course but no A/C - 24.3 mpg
03 Matrix AWD 1.8 4 cyl/auto - 33.7 mpg - what a pig on fuel they are when you go AWD..terrible gearing for the size engine, and restrictive exhaust routing etc on the Corolla 1.8 litre which always left the car feeling strangulated.
What I have found over the years, is it is important to fine the sweet spot, with your car. Where I live, the sweet spot will often render you a ticket so you putt around knowing that maybe 5 -10 more mph might give you better mpg but not worth the ticket.
The sweet spot will involve your torque output and hp and gearing, combined with (for the most part) the vehicle load, which mostly includes passengers and/or A/C use. I find that with A/C on in the CRV and the way it is geared, it actually seems to get better mpg at 68 mph than at 55. it really depends on so many factors though.. If you drive 68 by yourself, you will not get as good as if you drive 68 in and around a number of big trucks beside you and whatnot. Their draft will pull you along a fair bit. I certainly am not advocating hanging around trucks..just saying that if your usual commute involves a bunch of tailgaters, but if they flow fairly smoothly for an hour at a time without much brake light use, your mileage could actually be better than if you were a lone car on the road fighting that headwind all on your own.
I can't speak for the ultra-guage, but for $60 or $70 it looks decent. Check for reviews on the web.
Yes the wifi based smartphone app seems promising. I will check it out.
After filling out the rebate, setting up the screens will be a piece of cake. :shades:
I went on-line and found someone local who sells a unit exactly like this one on Amazon. link title
I have now purchased 3 of these, one for myself and 2 for friends as gifts. (again, I bought them locally, not from Amazon, but looks exactly the same)
We all use them with iPads and the system works great.
You can buy whatever WiFi dongle you want. The DashCommand App works great. I have used it on many trips to monitor fuel mileage and engine function.
Have a look at their Youtube demo. link titleThere are even more variables and screens than what they show in their Youtube video. Maybe I will do my own video. It's much easier than putting it all into words.
Remember that this is only a 1.6 or 2.0L engine pushing a 3600+Lb vehicle up a hill or against a head-wind at less than 2000 RPM's in many cases, so it needs some boost to make up for the engine size. Don't sweat that.
It's just good to be aware of how much boost you (or your cruise control) is asking for, and perhaps you can change your habits a bit, based on your new knowledge.
I am tempted to order the UG also. It doesn't require a smartphone or any other tech or does it? Does it just plug into my OBDII and work? If so, that is definitely my best option. The one thing I like about it over the Dashcommand (even though potential info is a lot more limited compared to what is available with the other set-up) pics I saw, was I think it has larger numerals which with my ailing eyesight in close quarters I think would be easier for me to see.
Where did you order it, or was that link from the mfgr..I forget..What was the price at the door? I know I'll be into a premium over that ordering it from Cda. Especially if they ship via courier as opposed to USPS. I have had surprise brokerage fees from the likes of UPS as much as 9 months later. Had a $93. brokerage charge on $500. item once. I have heard of worse dollar ratios tho too...seems to me one guy ordered a bike part that was under $40. and he ended up getting nailed something like 70 extra bucks after the fact. UPS and FedEx (altho UPS are easily the WORST) are nothing but crooks if something's going from the US to Cda. They really nail ya
If you are reading boost pressure, does that number go "negative" when you are not on boost? If so, then use that as your vacuum pressure.
Sounds like you made a good buy and are going to get lots of good use out of it.
Avg MPG, Instantaneous MPG
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, Barometric Pressure
Torque, Horsepower, % Engine Load, Boost psi
Yes, when not in boost it reads a negative number. I was looking at the Scangauge web site and it also does not have a vacuum reading. So it seems, the two devices are pretty much identical, except price.
The scanguage can do a lot more than just the pre-packaged inputs. There are people on the web who have programmed it to read even the advanced vehicle output that is normally only read by Ford service programs. The SG is fully programmable. I personally have programmed the AWD on/off % reading into mine. I've not tried out the ultraguage, and I don't know if it is programmable.
For general use, I think the Ultraguage might be a better buy, though.
I was very underwhelmed by the MPGs on this vehicle, initially. I was averaging 25 on the highway, and roughly 22 in town. I was getting frustrated, but I knew the car wasn't properly "broken in." Yet, I was driving like I had an eggshell underneath the gas pedal and I was even experimenting with ethanol-free fuels and higher octane gas. Still, the mileage didn't change much.
And then something magical happened....I hit 5,000 on the odometer. I live in West Michigan and drove to Appleton, Wisconsin for Easter this past weekend. I averaged about 74 in Michigan, 65 in Illnois, and 69 in Wisconsin, and my mileage over that trip?
29.6! This is what the computer calculated. Based on the pump, I calculated 29.7
To be sure, this made me a very happy man. On the way back, I was a little more aggressive and drove a bit faster and my mileage "dropped" to a very respectable 28.4 (and I was doing darn near 80 for 2 hours in Michigan).
My advice for any Ecoboost Escape owners is to just give this engine time before hitting the panic button. My father-in-law has had a Terrain for roughly the same amount of time as me. He only has the 4 banger and he is only getting 29 on the highway! And he said the car is a "dog." There is no other domestic small SUV on the market with comparable power and efficiency. My grandfather has an equinox with the V6 and he is "lucky" to get 22 on the interstate.
Most of the time the boost percentage is in the negative range, but with moderate acceleration it raises to 1-3% boost, getting on the freeway it is 6-8% and hitting passing gear on the freeway, 10-13% boost, I don't believe I've seen it go higher than that. If anything, it has shown me how sensitive the car is to changes in speed, throttle use, mpg's and how driving technique can improve mileage. I have yet to concentrate on the other pages I've set up, all in good time.
Still haven't been able to break 30 mpg though, and my overall is just 25.2 indicated by the DIC (so anywhere between 24 and 26 if I stay skeptical of the DICs accuracy).
Just bought Weathertech front floor mats.
What a perfect fit laser! Now my left foot won't wear out the rug on the hump as its now covered!
Interesting that the Escape mats also fit the Cmax same floor design .
I personally think that it should be a single forum, so that people can research all engine types and MPG in one place.
On the trip you reported, it may be as simple as speed. ( I am not trying to lecture, but just reporting the science)
Since your vehicle configuration is rated 28MPG on the highway, you can expect less than that at "75+" Mph. How much? If you Google "Speed vs fuel economy" you will get all the answers you want. (or don't want)
From some quick research, I found that a vehicle that gets 28Mpg at 65 Mph should get 23.4 Mpg at 75 Mph. That same vehicle should get 30.4 Mpg at 55 Mph. Obviously there are many other factors, but just straight wind resistance will yield numbers like this.
http://news.consumerreports.org/cars/2009/09/tested-speed-vs-fuel-economy.html
And what is this "engine set in" that everyone talks about? Is there any good article that I can read?
BREAKING-IN
You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 miles (480 kilometers). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics.
Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.
Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).
And as a reminder to some:
ECONOMICAL DRIVING
Fuel economy is affected by several things such as how you drive, the conditions you drive under and how you maintain your vehicle.
There are some things to keep in mind that may improve your fuel economy:
• Accelerate and slow down in a smooth, moderate fashion.
• Drive at steady speeds without stopping.
• Anticipate stops; slowing down may eliminate the need to stop.
• Combine errands and minimize stop-and-go driving.
• Close the windows for high-speed driving.
• Drive at reasonable speeds (traveling at 55 mph [88 km/h] uses 15% less fuel than traveling at 65 mph [105 km/h]).
• Keep the tires properly inflated and use only the recommended size.
• Use the recommended engine oil.
• Perform all regularly scheduled maintenance.
There are also some things you may not want to do because they may reduce your fuel economy:
• Sudden accelerations or hard accelerations.
• Rev the engine before turning it off.
• Idle for periods longer than one minute.
• Warm up your vehicle on cold mornings.
• Use the air conditioner or front defroster.
• Use the speed control in hilly terrain.
• Rest your foot on the brake pedal while driving.
• Drive a heavily loaded vehicle or tow a trailer.
• Carry unnecessary weight (approximately 1 mpg [0.4 km/L] is lost for every 400 lb [180 kg] of weight carried).
• Add particular accessories to your vehicle (e.g. bug deflectors, rollbars/light bars, running boards, ski racks).
• Drive with the wheels out of alignment.
Your mileage @55 MPH of 18 MPG is very low. What were the weather conditions? Flatlands or hills/mountains? Was the other 40 per cent city driving?
I suggest checking this again. Fill up get on a road where you can drive 55 MPH for a significant distance (maybe a 100 miles) and fill up again. Calculate your MPG.
By comparison I was able to cruise the FL panhandle at 50 - 60 MPH and got 31 MPG (I have a Titanium AWD). I had great weather about 65 - 70 degrees and a very calm day (little to no wind).
I'm not familiar with the term engine "engine set in." The Escape owners manual references a 3000 mile breakin period before checking MPGs. Also do
the MPG calculation manually and not rely on the digital indicator. Weather can make a big difference.
It says to enter your vehicles Highway MPG.
What I did, was enter a value in that box that would yield the EPA Highway mileage at 65MPH.
So for example (for the 2.0 AWD 28MPG Hwy EPA) I entered 30.4 as the highway MPG. This calculates to 28MPG at 65Mph, 23.4 MPG at 75 Mph and 30.4 at 55Mph. This method shoud reflect reasonably accurate results, given that the EPA testing is not done at 55Mph, but a combination of speeds and criteria.
Try it for your configuration to see what you get. The 1.6FWD at 33MPG EPA calculates to 36MPG at 55Mph. That's exactly what dizney gets.
I am not a 55Mph driver myself, but I do find these types of calculators interesting, to help set my expectations for the speed that I do drive.