Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Acura CL



  • yeah, it's a teflon tape or something. they should be able to do it in a couple minutes. i had them send me some and did it myself and it seems to work for now.
  • tomsrtomsr Posts: 325
    My 98 CL just reached 60K miles and I took it in to have the seat belt replaced.On the invoice was
    marked recommended emission service.The owners
    manual does not list any sort of service.What the heck is it? After 4 years my car is holding up very well,if I could get back that new car smell
    it would be perfect.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Haven't heard from you for awhile. Good to see you back.
    And I too had the tape applied to my moonroof about 6 months ago and all's been quiet so far.
  • cyranno99cyranno99 Posts: 419
    emission service.... probably has something to do with where you live.... still... recommended service does not means that it is required.

    Well... over 10k in my car and I hope that Acura will use the future RL chasis for the CL (not TL) - rumors has it that the RL might be RWD.
  • Thanks for the advice. I'll pay my dealership a visit and get that tape applied asap.
  • new 2001 cl-s with nav and spoiler for 29,500
  • I am looking at buying a used CL-S. It has 23K miles and a spoiler. It is on sale for $25,900, but I got the impression from the sales guy that he could do better. A couple questions:

    1. Does anyone have any good info on whether this is a fair price or not? I seemed to think it was pretty good.

    2. How is the CL (particularly the Type S) in the snow? I live in the midwest and will have to drive it in the snow several times per winter.

    3. I drive a lot of highway miles, and want a car that is comfortable "cruising." Would the standard CL (without the stiffer suspension/17" wheels) be a better choice for me? The CL will be a significant performance upgrade from my current vehicle ('95 Camry), so I am not sure I need to go all the way to a Type S.

    Thanks in advance for your opinions. I really appreciate it.
  • 1) i think you can do better. there's probably a couple NEW '01s left around lots that dealers are trying to just get rid of, so check prices on those before you decide on a car with 25k miles already.

    2) I live in Eastern PA area where there's some snow, and if you drive cautiously, the 17's aren't too bad...but if you are still concerned, just get a set of snow rims and tires (16"). the biggest problem i had was during acceleration, but then the traction control/vsa would kick in for a couple seconds.

    3) For cruising purposes, i feel the type-s is pretty comfortable. I think the biggest difference in comfort is non-cruising driving through rougher roads and city streets, where the standard is probalby a little less harsh...but the -s isn't that harsh either.
  • I just bought one for $26,100, which is $2,000 UNDER INVOICE. Feeling lucky right now. Is there some kind of dealer incentive on these cars? Any tips for a new "fan"?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    We're too green with envy to give you any tips.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    ........indicate a 6-speed manual shift transmission for the Acura CL-S. Timeframe given was the fall of 2001.

    Fall (at least the California version) is here. It's pretty quiet out there.......and more than just a few Acura folk are giving the Reserve Salute when asked about the 6-spd availability.
  • don't hold your breathe.... with this economy who knows when anything will debut... then again, other have rumored that it might come out early next year.
  • 64626462 Posts: 14
    Autos usually tack on an extra $800 or so. Think that'll be the case with the CL Type S? If I can hold out and buy manual version for cheaper, then I won't look at used autos...
  • danny25danny25 Posts: 119
    Unfortunately for me I didn't get as good a deal as shallgin on my CL-S. I got it for 28,200, only about 300 under invoice. But I am definately happy to be a new member of the CL owners club. :)
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    should be cheaper. The Nissan Maxima SE has a 6-speed with the 4-speed auto as a $1,000 (CDN) option.
  • danny25danny25 Posts: 119
    In the U.S. the Maxima 6 spd is the same price as the auto.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Nissan bundles the auto with traction control. Wonder if that accounts for the extra cost?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    Congratulations! The only tip I have for you right now is WATCH OUT FOR CURBS or you'll become a member of the scratched rim club! ;-)) Because the rims stick out further than the tires, it's easy to scratch them if you're not careful.

    You'll love this car. I now have 10,400+ miles on mine since 3/28/01. I love to drive this car. Pics are in my profile if you click on my name. Best car I have ever owned!

  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I was careless the other night about the front fender flares. I came home late, and I guess I must have been tired. I went shooting into the garage like I've done 1000 times. My son's old bike was placed against the wall with the handle bar sticking out. Well, to make a long story short, from the driver's seat, all you can see is the top edge of the fender. But the fender flares below that actually extend quite a bit beyond. So I clipped the handle bar with the right front fender. And because the other end of the handle bar got pressed up against the wall, now I've got a nice little dimple on the fender :( Not too noticeable. I may try using one of the paintless dent removal shops. Moral of the story: watch out for the bulging fenders!
  • I just bought this car after I totaled (their fault) my 94 Toyota Celica w/160K. The Toyota was pampered from day 1 and still had plenty of orig. equipment on it running like new. I enter the CL club looking for 200K min. out of this car-will I get it? The car was purchased from a certified dealer and has had appropriate maint. I have had a problem with the car not starting after having been parked on a 20% downward slope, having been in neutral prior to engine shut-off, with a small (<1/8 tank) of gas. These are the only common denominators that I can recognize. The dealer mentioned this engine can easily flood and you just have to stomp on the accelerator to flush it out if it dosen't turn over. Also, the dealer just performed a emissions repair related to a recent tech-bulletin that caused the "check engine" light to come on. Suprisingly, the "fix" shown in the t-b involved drilling a 1/4" or so hole at a 45deg' angle into the alum. engine head adjacent to an existing hole. To see it looked like surgery. Bottom line, any similar problems out there? People excited about their cars with less than 50K on them need not respond-that's more like "initial quality" to me.
This discussion has been closed.