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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

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Comments

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i seen a blue 2500HD CC 8.1 4x4 and a black one but only 6.0 a few days ago

    Ryan
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    pretty good in the blue. The stripe adds a lot also. Did you have the dealer add the stripe when he painted the flares?
  • scootter31scootter31 Member Posts: 31
    Did the zone manager give you the part numbers? If so, would you post them?

    just
    Scott
  • jake2500jake2500 Member Posts: 6
    The paint job on the flares cost me $300. It was done right a chevrolet dealers body shop the same day the truck was delivered. I added the pinstriping myself.

    The wheels are Amercian Racing Pythons 16x8, tires Cooper Discover AT 265/75/r16 load range D (they make it in E load range, but I didn't really need anything that heavy, only tow a 6,000lbs. travel trailer and a enclosed snowmobile trailer which weights less). Really nice tire, has good traction and runs pretty quiet on the pavement.

    PS. I believe there's only two coats of wax on the pickup when I took this photo.
  • kablotskykablotsky Member Posts: 14
    I, for one, am happy I ordered a locker on my 2500.

    My driveway is about 350 feet long, with a few dips and twists, a right angle 100 feet from the end, and a 20+ degree incline.

    Imagine a frozen lake. Now tilt it 20-30 degrees. I don't care who you are: man or woman, you're going to need all the traction you can get. With 700# of sandbags in the back and 700# of plow on the front, 4wd and a locker, I've nearly been stuck on my own driveway a few times. Without chains or a locker, there wouldn't be a prayer -- and a locking differential is much easier to use.

    I sure wasn't going to ask my wife to use her car to pull my 4x4 truck back onto the driveway! The locker was $245 well spent.
  • chuck2001chuck2001 Member Posts: 3
    I just want to say hi to everybody in the group. I've been following the postings since about August, and in spite of all of the negative feedback (Shakerado, etc.), I ordered a 2001 Silverado in mid-September and took delivery of it the last week in October. It's got about 3,500 miles on it now, and to this day I love it as much as the day I first saw it sitting out in the dealer's lot, all prepped and ready to drive home. That's in spite of the fact that in the last 2 1/2 months I've had to replace the windshield (stone damage), and some low-life decided to "key" a 2 foot scratch in the tailgate while it was parked in my driveway. Even though it's only a 2wd, with a little bit of weight in the back (250#) it has handled beautifully in the substantial amount of snow that we have had up here in Michigan this winter. Anyways, I hope y'all don't mind me joining in from time to time.
  • dave40dave40 Member Posts: 582
    Bigger tires are hard on the Lockers ! Mine went out after replacing my 245's with 285's
  • racerbob4racerbob4 Member Posts: 2
    Does any do any towing with a locker rear?, I would think it would cause sway pulling a large trailer 35-40ft.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Welcome Chuck

    Dave did you reprogram your speedo and such for the larger tires? How did you know the locker went out?

    Ryan
  • kablotskykablotsky Member Posts: 14
    Why would towing with a locker cause sway? The differential only locks when one wheel spins a 100's of rpm faster than the other. Unless you're spinning a wheel you shouldn't notice the difference. Am I missing something?
  • dave40dave40 Member Posts: 582
    Yes I have the Hypertec... My lockers lasted about 20k on my last 2 trucks. The larger tires are hard on the lockers There was a GM warning on this issue sometime back. I'll see if I can dig it up for ya....Don't spin them wheels to much !
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ..not sounding like such a good Idea after all eh?

    as for the spare.....who cares..leave it a 265...like Oby said...cars had them dinky spares for years.....if you were to spin the tires a lot with a locker and different tires..yeah a problem...but take it easy...

    I got 1 flat in 11 years with the old truck...fixed it with a can of fix a flat until I got it repaired next day

    I did take out the spare from underneith day one and tossed it in the bed though.....never did chain it up....and I went everywhere....nobody is going to take a steel wheel.....

    Once again.....ditch the lockers boys......

    hehe

    - Tim
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I think a 285 spare will fit. I thought about switching to the 285 (current tire is 265 75 16)

    I have about 1 1/2 inches of clearance on each side - more than enough for the larger tire.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Someone stole the spare off of my old Ranger, (spare was steel). probably just for the brand new rubber.. So, if your gonna keep the spare in the bed unchained, make it with rubber that has some wear on it..

    As for the size difference, if its only a few miles till the closest station, you won't have any problem..
    If the distance is longer, then the best suggestion is in the case of a rear flat, move a front tire to the rear, and put the spare on the front..Although that is a pain..
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    It's being assumed that the locker will respond to a 1" difference in tire diameter but we don't really know that. If the locker ignores that small variation then you can drive on it forever without damage.

    Ryan, why don't you call Eaton and see if they have a customer service department willing to talk about it. I think many folks here would be interested.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I went on a squeak & creak attack recently, with good results. This is one area I can't give Chevy an A. Almost all the noise was from plastic-on-plastic rubbing causing creaks and cracks and pops. I used silicone spray, WD-40, petroleum jelly, Armor All and grease.

    1) Fold out drink holder. (bench seats only)
    WD-40 all metal hinges. Lube the plastic on the SIDES of the drink holder and of the hole in the dash that receives it.

    2) Fold down arm rest with note pad holder. (same)
    This one was really bad.

    -WD-40 or silicone the main hinge and the note pad holder hinge points.

    -The inside of the top door (map strap area) is a big plastic piece that snaps off. Start at the bottom and work it off carefully. It's got 2 strong clips at the top but they will pull out. Cover all touching surfaces with PJ.

    -Use a thin tool to spread the halves of the pad holder around the edge and shoot lube spray inside. Repeat around the edge.

    3) Rear cowl.
    The large plastic trim panel that runs under the width of the rear window has metal clips that rub and squeak, and also click with temperature changes. Pop that panel off and apply grease to all the metal clips. Apply PJ to all contact areas.

    4) Put PJ on the rear slider window seals.

    5) Doors. I don't know how many trucks have this problem, mine is an early 2000. The door panel rubs on a plastic piece inside. It creaks quite loudly when you push the panel or use the arm rest. This didn't show up for about 1 year. I used an Exacto knife to trim away the material. See the photo.

    image

    The effort was well worth it. I can now go over bumps without hearing a chorus.

    -
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Ill check into that guys

    Ryan
  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    From my understanding, the factory unit is not actually a locker, but is a limited-slip differential, which means it uses friction plates which are subject to wear over time just like a clutch. I didn't get one from the factory and regretted that decision until I started researching the issue. I recently installed a Power-Trax No-Slip differential on my 2000 Silverado, and am very happy with it. Under normal driving conditions it is pretty much unnoticeable, but when you need traction it's a God send. It is a real locker that has an automatic disengaging feature when making turns, and does not use any friction plates or thrust washers that are subject to wear, and thus, does not require any special maintenance or considerations. With no previous experience or knowledge I was able to install it myself with the instructions that came with it. It is made out of Zytanium for real high strength, and is backed up with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. If you didn't get a factory limited-slip differential and would like to have more traction I would recommend the Power-Trax No-Slip differential. It cost me $400 plus $15.50 shipping. To find a dealer just run a search for Power-Trax or Zytanium.
    Ken
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/prodinfo/products/index.html

    ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Click out our video clips to watch as the Eaton locker easily outperforms both open, and limited slip differentials and also 4X4 systems in towing and off-road applications.

    Its not a limited slip

    Go to that site and read up on the factory installed option

    Ryan
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    I dropped off my 01 xc 4x4 z71 (locker, Yeah baby!) for it's first oil change and a short list of attention items.
    1) Tranny hesitant to downshift. Tran guy reprogrammed, so far, so good. (Thanks Oby for TSB info)
    2) Overspray - Paint guy said it's actually rail dust and dealer was currently out of some special gel used to remove it. I'm supposed to check back in 10 days.
    3) impure radio reception - I was told that antenna needed tuning (high C, e flat, what? ;) ) seems worse than before.
    4) I mentioned that a driver side rear door speaker vibrated under higher volume loads, probably needed to be tightened. They replaced the speaker, because as the service writer said, "we don't get paid to tighten speakers".
    5) I had to defend my choice of having my oil changed at 1000 miles. Someone here said, and I remember some people agreeing that changing the oil after the first 1000 miles would help flush out the shavings, etc. By the end of our discussion, I wanted to ask if the service writer if he understood what customer service is all about.

    All in all, I can sum up this first experience as one of feet dragging on service dept's behalf. I felt I had to 'motivate' them more than needed.
  • umtisquatumtisquat Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone modified the front bench seat on a base model Silverado so that the center seat-back will flip down to act as an armrest? It seems logical that the seat frames are the same for the base and LS models; just the method of mounting the seatback is different. I want an armrest, but don't want to pay the extra $$$ for an LS (nor do I want some of the options in the LS). I just want an armrest. Does anyone know if this can be done using Chevy parts? Thanks!
  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    In response to message 842 I stand corrected, it is a locker and not a limited-slip differential. I contacted an Eaton distributor, and he said he would not recommend the Eaton Lockers at this time as they have a weak case that is notorious for failing. He recommended the Eaton Limited-slip differential. He said he has made a lot of money repairng numerous Eaton lockers on the new GM trucks due to the differential cases failing on them. He said he would rather have the Silverado open differential over the Eaton Locker. I hope you continue to have good luck with your locker.
    Ken
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    umtisquat you won't get much help here on this page. Most of these guys are rich and can afford the LT models and have no idea what you or I am going through. That said. Steelhorse Has a unit to install on the seat it runs about $100.00 and looks like a real good unit.

    If "I" don't go that route, I might take a hack saw to the 2 tubes that hold that little seat in place. It makes me crazy!

    If none of these ideas are for you a cooler with your favorite beverage in it could be used as good "arm rest"..

    Allen-
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I guess i am modest then i only have the LS pkg with buckets

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Someone posted a question on my guestbook at picturetrail and left no email.

    Here is the website from the place i got my programmer from

    http://www.vansenusauto.com/performa.htm

    Ryan
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    Ryan, I also have the LS with the buckets. Nice seats. I almost didn't get them but my wife talked me into it (thank you to her). I wanted the buckets but not the leather.

    Mark
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    same i got cloth. Very comfortable seats

    Glad i didnt get the bench. Only downside is there is alot of room between the center console and the passenger seat and when i take my gf hom its a reach to give her a good night kiss.

    (Tim ill have new pics soon maybe as early as tonight)

    Ryan
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Unfortunately, the seat frame is different.

    I looked into a wrecking yard seat, but the cost ($1000) turned me off. Maybe they are more common now.

    Mike L
  • mdrechnowiczmdrechnowicz Member Posts: 9
    What is the TSB for this condition. My truck
    seems like it wants to stay in overdrive down to
    around 40-45 mph. Is this the same problem for
    this TSB

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    http://www.alldata.com

    Check it out for tsb's
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    Ryan, go ahead and marry her and IF she lets you keep the truck you will be wishing you had a solid curtain as well as the space between the seats. Then you will be looking for ways to create wind noise in the cab so you won't be having to listen to her.
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Mike,

    See post #607. I took it with me when I had the truck serviced. The service writer told me that the tranny tech may have a more recently dated fix. I was told when I picked it up yesterday that they had indeed reprogrammed it. When I got to my 'trouble' spot a couple miles from home, it indeed shifted down at a little over 40mph.

    -smikes
  • jmessz71jmessz71 Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone had any problems with the seat belt "spool" inside the seat squeaking? How about the extended cab set rattling in the up position only? Any know causes or solutions?
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I'm having trouble finding AC Delco PF59 oil filters locally.
    None at K-mart, Target, Schucks, Action Auto, etc.
    PepBoys wants $6 each, too much money.

    Has anyone found a good web site to order the PF59's at a decent price?

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Have you tried walmart yet?

    When i had to do my first oil change i couldnt find one. Then after that all the sudden they popped up all over the place. I will be getting mine at kmart when i need them from now on (10% discount)

    Or you could try your dealership but they will want more than $6. Id say spend the $6 now you will find them by your next change and will get them cheaper

    Ryan
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Open Diffs are looking better all the time..

    - Tim
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I picked up the only 2 PF59 oil filters they had when I was at PepBoys.
    One for the 1000 mile change and one for the 3000 mile change.
    Haven't tried Walmart yet, but you'd think if K-mart has them in Indiana they'd have them in Washington. Not even a place on the shelf for them at the one I looked at.

    Just thought there might be a good place on the web to buy AC Delco oil filters, and also air filters for both the engine and interior.

    2001 Z-71, 700 miles and still absolutely flawless!!!

    -David
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    yeah, all you damn rich guys with your LTs (tim!!!) cough up some dough for the rest of us poor LS driving saps!

    funny, quadcab4x4, if this thread is so worthless for help, what the hell are you doing here? seems to me you're rich enough to "golf and waste time on your pc"...you're rich enough to afford a freakin' seat with an armrest in a $20+k truck.

    bco

    can you tell i hate it when people say you won't find help here? grrrrr
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    everything - next time let's buy the base Sierra and get a fold down armrest without the $10K of extras. I got the $100 Steel Horse contractor console to put on the seat - actually works better because it has a larger area to rest your arm, and you can move the console around to get it just where you want it - based on your body type any where you like to place your right hand on the steering wheel. It is an irritant not having a factory armrest, but the stripper still has its advantages - the best being the still improving gas mileage of the 4.3 V6.
  • willimjowillimjo Member Posts: 73
    I'm not disputing that the Easton distributor told you what he did, but his story sounds more than a little fishy. If the differential case was failing, GM would have to make good on the warranty to the truck owner. If the problem was an Easton manufacturing defect, do you really think GM is going to let Easton, or one of its distributors, make money off of it? Easton would have to make good on the defective cases by giving GM free ones and reimbursing them for the installation. And if Easton is anything like GM, any money they pay the distributor for handling the parts won't fully cover his costs (just as GM's payment to dealers for performing warranty often doesn't cover their full cost).

    The whole story just hits me wrong. I don't see where is an opportunity for an Easton distributor to make "lots of money" off the problem. Plus if this problem was so wide spread, surely at least one owner would post to Edmund's or PUTC.
  • trw3trw3 Member Posts: 35
    Sorry for my slow reply. During the "so what are you going to do for me" conversation with my district rep. I got this response. I'll see what I can do, a day later he called me asking if I owned other GM vehicles and asked for a vin# from my 91 GMC. My understanding is basically he lied to GM customer service and told them I was having problems with my truck or at least that is what the form letter w/ the cert. from cust. serv. stated. Blah blah blah!(who ever heard of a cash voucher on a 10 yr. old truck? I couldnt get GM to do warranty work on it but they would give this, go figure)Anyway the voucher was good for 1000.00 on the purchase of any new GM product vaild for 1 yr.and applicable with any programs,disc. rebates etc. at any gm dealership.The voucher "loyalty certificate" was mailed in my name directly to my residence and the dist. rep. did notify the dealer that I would be recieving this. I believe there are many ways for gm to give vouchers of this type but this is what my rep. choose. If there is anything I can help with just let me know.
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    Well, it appears that a week can't go by without Edmunds changing something. Oh well, progress, I suppose.

    Reading a earlier post (few days ago) concerning the radio display coming on after a few minutes after start-up, reminded me of what happened to me not too long after I first got mine.

    One morning on my way to work, I reached down to turn the radio on and noticed that the time wasn't displayed. However the radio did work eventhough the display didn't. I thought "Oh well, the dealer gonna replace it". After a few minutes the display lit up as if nothing was wrong. "What the?!" A little ways down the road, I entered a section with over hanging trees and the headlights came on and the radio display went off. "What the?!" Looked over to the knob for the instrument panel and saw that it was turn all the way to it's dimmest position. Cranked it back up and never had an radio display problem again.

    M.

    '00 GMC Sierra Ext cab SLE Z71 w/5.3
  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    Just curious on everyone's opinion on how long to keep your 'rado before trading. I realize each individual has circumstances that dictate how long they keep a vehicle.

    However, do you think it is a good idea to trade every 3 or 4 years, do you get a better trade-in with vehicle still under warranty, or do you lose too much? A lease is not an option for myself due to miles driven.

    My problem is I fall in love too easy with women and trucks, not necessarily in that order. I end up keeping them too long which can cause problems.
  • ducatistaducatista Member Posts: 20
    I am currently trying to trade a 2000 Silverado LS Ext Cab, 5.3, buckets, tow, and 17,500 miles. The dealers are offering $17-18,000 on a $40-45,000 Tahoe / Sub. What a rip. Driving til they drop sounds better and better.
  • 87lion87lion Member Posts: 166
    I plan on keeping my Silverado until it falls apart. Hopefully, that will be a good, long time. I figure until the cost of repairs exceeds new vehicle payments it's better to keep the vehicle, unless you have concerns about safety or reliability. I think I'll keep my wife a while longer, too. {8^)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Company truck I drive for three years, then gets turned over to foreman to beat to death.

    Personal vehicles are leased cause I found that my tolerance for vehicles average 2 to 3 years...getting bored with it after that.

    tex6

    That's dangerous....falling in love with women too easily. You'll get used and abused by the vamps...LOL!!
  • 99crewcab199crewcab1 Member Posts: 79
    I'd like to get a new one a couple years after graduating from college. Hopefully I'll have my job with GM by then.

    Nick
  • hunter98hunter98 Member Posts: 273
    Just a note, I am pretty sure that one of the Advantages of a Base Sierra is that it does have a folding armrest where the Silverado doesn't. My advice is to check into the GMC. As for me I got a 2000 GMC LT. My 99 had 20k on it and I traded it for an equal cost 2000 for about $4500 with tax, I figured not too bad for a 32k plus list price truck. The dealer cried for three months until he got my old one sold without loosing money. He said next time lets trade a two year old truck. So that is pretty well where I stand, I think I will trade every 20-30 months when they get around 30k miles on them. I see that as the best time to trade a loaded truck. I figured it cost me about 15% of the cost of the new truck to trade for 20k miles and these where the cream of the crop new miles, how can a afford to not trade. So in my opinion, the best time to trade depends on miles driven per year but your better off to deal on a three year old truck or less. Next time maybee a crew cab for me.

    Hope this helps

    Hunter
  • n75v111n75v111 Member Posts: 243
    trw3 (ref # 752)- Thanks for the detail. I assume you didn't keep a copy of the Certificate you could fax (641-754-2731) as it would be neat to throw that on the table Monday when I have my meeting with the dealer and rep when they claim no knowledge of such a thing.

    I have tried to lay the ground work for this by sending them an email today part of which layed on the F250SD delivery in 6 weeks senerio which is sooner than the HD would be here if they gave me a TPW tomorrow (will be 7 months if March delivery).

    sf0383 (ref post 267 over on New Sierra/Silv----Topic)-- The 'ado sales planner just acknowledged my email request for real world production update today and was very appologetic as I took a chance and sent him a second request after no response initially. Long story short he made a verbal "pledge to help make all this come together" and wanted my 6 degit order no and dealer name etc. so we'll see what happens.
    (pretty good considering he don't know me from Adam and his involvement is certainly 'beyond the call of duty' for him)

    Interesting also is that with a little phone work I have wrangled the name and phone # of the HD scheduler at the Pontiac Plant so once I get a TPW she promised to keep me posted their also.

    Most of my problem is probably due to the 8100 engine/xc so your cc/6.0 shouldn't be this much pain I hope, but I'll let you know if I get anything worth while.

    cowboyjohn3 and I think someone else has posted January build dates for 8100's so I'll be interested to see if that holds for them - sure hope so--

    75v
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