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Chevy Silverado Problems
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Comments
Today, I started to get groans and clunk-like noises in the cab when traveling over bumps at low speeds (30 and below). I sounds (from the inside) just like something on the suspension is bouncing around, but that system wasn't touched. At higher speeeds, it feels like a LOT more of the road and engine vibrations are making it to my feet through the floorboards. Something ain't right. The nerfs are firm and in the correct position, but these noises are not good.
Any suggestions? Is 65 ft-lbs of torque too much...did I overtighten the cab bolts and outdo the isolation pads? I'm at a loss to understand this one.
matthew
(im just messing with you guys)
Hope you can get it worked out
Ryan
One thing you might try is to remove the isolation bushing and lube it with silicon grease. Then re-install and see if that helps. Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.
Jim
Anothe question. I have the brackets for my nerfs installed right at the head of the cab bolt, below the plate portion of the isolation bushing. I wonder if moving the bracket above that bushing, right up against the frame, would alleviate any extras stresses on the the bushing. Not sure it fits. How did your brackets fit in? Below or above the bushing?
-- Don
matthew
My 2001 Silverado intermittently sticks in third gear. I have to manually shift it into nuetral, then back to drive to get it to drop in to drive. The mechanic working on my truck finally found a document pointing to the problem. I don't think it was a TSB, but I'll find out what the heck it was and post it this week. Anyway, it's related to the ignition. That might also solve the problem of my airbag light not shutting off after I start the truck. Again, an
intermiitent problem (How come intermittent problems only occur when the owner is driving the damn thing....they never happen when the mechanic is driving it?).
The third and last problem is a tinny rattle at 35-40 MPH from underneath. Sounds like it is just under the passenger seat. I haven't crawled underneath this thing yet. Where's the catalytic converter located? I had the same problem on an old LTD I drove. Turned out to be a loose heat shield around the exhaust.
Actually, I have a fourth problem...the most frustrating one; dealer indifference. If anyone finds a solution to that one, lemme know. I can make you rich.
John
I have a victory red truck love it. However off road at my ranch in New Mex I encounter many gravel areas and as a result have had poor success with the paint. It is chipped everywhere more than my previous truck. The windshield also has 7 chipshots already (owned 6 months). I am happy overall with vehicle however these two items are worth noting. The paint is chipped by the lightest of gravel and the windshield is cracked by what I think is the smallest of stones. Hell I wouldn't be surprised if these big old bugs wouldn't crack it. Off to see insurance man and get it replaced. I'm a little disappointed in the paint durability, it cannot be more than .001" thick.
ndared1
Had the sides of my truck repainted under warranty cause the paint had some dust, orange peel, and was almost transparent on some parts of the quarter panel. Body shop did an excellent job...way better than the factory....especially on that famous GM orangepeel.
Every now and then, after I park, it won't start. All console gauge indications look like I just didn't have the clutch all the way in (i.e. battery needle swings, message lights blink, etc.) I've tried re-pressing the clutch to the floor, turning the ignition off then on, and just letting it sit. Nothing. The starter was replaced and that didn't help. A dealer installed ignition kill switch was removed and that didn't help. Batteries and cables replaced, nada. The only thing that works is getting the truck rolling and putting it in gear. Not popping the clutch to start, just putting it in gear. That seems to jar whatever the problem is loose and then it starts. I'm thinking it might be a flat spot on the gear in the transmission, but not sure. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Dave
Jim
Chad
-David
pat
pat
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) 2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models
(Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
Parts Information
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed.
1. Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
2. Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
3. From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
4. From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
5. Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
^ From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
^ From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
^ From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
6. Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
7. Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
8. Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
9. Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Warranty Information
By the way just got my 2001 tech manuals in the mail, they are a whopping 5 volumes, and quite large, all stackecd up must be about 15 inches. thanks for the TSB.
pat
My driveway has developed a good-sized pothole and I made the mistake of parking my truck in it. To get out, I had to pull the truck (empty, no load) up a hill and out of the hole. On the first attempt, in 2H, the rear wheels spun. I don't think I spun them long or fast enough for the locker to kick-in. On the second attempt in 4H the engine stalled (did I let the clutch out too fast?). On the third attempt in 4L the truck started out, then *BANG* like a gunshot and then it cleared the hole. I didn't think much of it (duh?), and drove in 2H to the park a mile away. When I returned from a short hike, I noticed a pool of gear oil under front of the vehicle. I traced it to the front axle (differential) and decided the truck would make it a mile home in 2H.
I pulled off the skid plate and noticed that about 1.5" up, on the rear left of the differential, there was a hole with gear oil dripping out. A piece of metal was embedded in the hole from the inside and a chunk of white metal about the size of a chickpea (a piece of the housing) was hanging from the hole.
The truck is one week shy of its first birthday and only has 13k miles (I have other vehicles). The service manager told me when I dropped it at the dealership Saturday afternoon that it would be covered under warranty, but I'm still not happy about it. I suspect the torque of the powerful engine magnified by the very low first gear magnified again by the low gear on the transfer case was too much for the front axle.
For the most part the truck has been great -- otherwise than destroying its front axle, it has been problem-free, comfortable on the road, and a strong plow pusher. I hope that this was a manufacturing defect and not a design defect so I don't need to worry when it is going to blow next. I'm looking forward to getting the truck back so I can pick up some material to patch that pothole.
Just kiddin'...hope you get your truck fixed.
John
I haven't enjoyed having to explain to my friends and family that my big, strong truck can't pull its way out of a hole!
they were redoing our street well the crane operator dropped a slab of concrete on the water main at the end of our driveway water everywhere. They had to dig it out and fix it. Well they filled it back but not so good. At the time i had my dads S-10 i had backed in the driveway and i was pulling out front end sunk. Got out rear end was in the air and the front passenger side had sunk in the rock. The frame of the truck was resting on the concrete (driveway). Can you say im screwed. Only 1 tire touching the ground. Well we jacked the one tire up got the truck level again and filled the hole a little bit more.
Ryan
Ryan
The oil is going somewhere. 1 qt. is within GM's tolerance....but then they can increase it anytime they want. Only true test will be in the long run whether it gets worse or not.
I'm surprised you had to use much throttle in low range, 1st gear. Mine will climb walls in low, 1st at anything above idle. Usually, low, 2nd is all I need to climb over obstacles.
Glad to hear your dealer is taking care of it.
Mike L
Unless you are consistently running your vehicle at load and not maintaining it properly for high wear, I don't think you should be losing ground on the dipstick.
A compresion test on the cylinders will point out any problems with using oil. For leaks I sugggest using a flashlight and be sure to check behind the engine both on top and bottom. Also check your radiator fluid and make sure it doesn't have a slick or sheen to it. Your best method of tracking down leaks in an engine compartment full of electronics is your nose. Nothing smells like used motor oil.
John
was your truck within the warranty period?
I like lots of cooling fans, but you trying to say one has to live with lots of fan noise, even when listening to radio, not CD !?
Tell you what, whoever designed that electronix must suck !!
Next time around try a Tundra - Quieter than a luxomobile at any speed, even with a big haul !!
--
Drivers side and passenger side (under hood) parts of it are coming off. Guess I gotta head back to the dealer to fix this huh? Also on the bottom of the drivers side extra cab door. Seems a little loose there as well. Other than that, that is all I can find so far.. I will keep you all posted.
Anyone else with an 01 having weatherstripping problems?
Jim
-- Don
So it probably will not be waxed for a long time. Im pretty ticked off right now. had it all planned all saturdat and sunday wash and wax the thing but nooooo.
Ryan