Chevy Silverado Problems

mdh065 · June 2001

I own a 00 'rado 2500 ex cab LS 4x4. I love the truck, tow a horse trailer, and use the truck for commuting to work. The problem is that when I exit the freeway after a 45 min drive and acclerate from a stop, the transmission shifts HARD! From 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. It is at the dealer now and the service adv. says he can't duplicate the problem. It has the 6.0 and 4 sp auto. Has anyone else had the same problem with the same drivetrain?? I've located two tsb's that I might refer to the dealer.

wight1 · June 2001

the local NAPA parts stores here in Houston stock the full line of Royal Purple products, including motor oil, gear oil, power steering fluid, water wetter, auto tranny fluid, etc. They have the RP MaxGear gear oil in 75w90 and 80w140 weights.

Been wanting to try the RP motor oil, but can't get over the hump of paying $5.50 a quart. Saw it at Carparts.com once for like $5.10 - should have bought some then. Didn't you use the RP oil at one time?

wight1 · June 2001

I have the same vehicle you do, except mine is 2wd. I've noticed a couple of times that it will shift a little harsh when in the Tow/Haul mode while pulling my 6500# travel trailer, but its happened only a couple of times. It shifts smooth as silk when driving solo - you don't even feel it shift except you see the tach drop down.

Does your harsh shifting happen driving solo or towing?

mdh065 · June 2001

I own a 00 'rado 2500 ex cab LS 4x4. I love the truck, tow a horse trailer, and use the truck for commuting to work. The problem is that when I exit the freeway after a 45 min drive and acclerate from a stop, the transmission shifts HARD! From 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. It is at the dealer now and the service adv. says he can't duplicate the problem. It has the 6.0 and 4 sp auto. Has anyone else had the same problem with the same drivetrain?? I've located two tsb's that I might refer to the dealer.

mdh065 · June 2001

I've only noticed it when not towing, and not using the tow/haul mode. I faithfully buy Chevy and have never had any transmission problems on any of the chevys I've owned. I actually use my 97 Astro to tow our 25' Nomad TT which weighs in at 6200lbs fully loaded. The Astro has 80,000 miles now and has been flawless since day one, even with the heavy towing. I bought the Silverado from Bill Heard Chevrolet last year to take over the towing duties for both the horse trailer and the travel trailer, but I sure don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a blown tranny!! Westside Chevrolet is working on it right now, but haven't heard any update yet.........

wight1 · June 2001

Didn't realize you were from the Houston area. I live on northwest side - bought mine from Mac Haik. I've had pretty good luck with them so far. I don't have the shift problem you describe, so don't know what to tell you. Keep me posted on the outcome in case mine develops a similar problem.

wight1 · June 2001

New update on step bar noise. Apparently I've hit on something in my post #791 about using a plastic spacer between the bottom cab bushing and the step bar bracket.

Forgot that I had sent an e-mail in to Westin early last week inquiring about this problem and any possible solutions. Just heard back from them - they wanted my address so they could ship me some plastic spacers they've used for this exact condition which they claim will get rid of the noise. The problem is apparently indeed the metal-to-metal contact between the bar bracket and the cab mount bottom bushing. As soon as I receive them, I'll put them on and post the results.

Go to Westinautomotive.com and send an e-mail message about your bar noise problems.

obyone · June 2001

Is that because of the abrasives found in WD40?

wight1

My local NAPA store orginally wanted $7.70 for a quart of RP. Since I bought a case, they dropped the price to $6.70 a quart, so when looking at your price...I'd buy a case. LOL! And yes, I did use RP at one time then made the switch to lubriplate after reading the write up on their site and my friend being the local distributor handing me some free samples....ya know ya can't beat free....

redsilverado · June 2001

an excellent metal to metal lubricant. WD40 is great for rust removal, but wouldn't use it for lubing a flies wings. the stuff stinks, and after knowing a friend who's grandfather was involved in it's formulation, also know it's a waste of money.

quadrunner500 · June 2001

Makes an excellent potato gun propellant!

dch0300 · June 2001

When I was much younger, I used cans of WD40 as flame throwers to torch caterpillar nests.
Ahhh what fun.
-David

ryanbab · June 2001

NOTHING makes a flame thrower like a tiki torch and some gas

Ryan

eric2001 · June 2001

Didn't I tell you guys to try that back in #784? hehe- beat ya to it! Hope it works out for you.

toor: call Westin and see if they will send you out a set.
-Eric

toor · June 2001

Just got off the phone w/ Westin,
My plastic spacers are on their way.
I hope that solves the problem.
Actually, yesterday I greased up all the nuts/bolst and braces, and it got a lot better.
But I'll put these plastic spacers on and maybe the squeaks, well now it's more like pops, will go away.
Thanks fellas!

wight1 · June 2001

by god, you were right! I can't wait for these washers - mine are popping over every bump. If this doesn't work, I'm taking them off the truck.

toor · June 2001

Just got off the phone w/ Westin,
My plastic spacers are on their way.
I hope that solves the problem.
Actually, yesterday I greased up all the nuts/bolst and braces, and it got a lot better.
But I'll put these plastic spacers on and maybe the squeaks, well now it's more like pops, will go away.
Thanks fellas!

boatdrinks · June 2001

99 Chevy Z71 EXT CAB w/sliding window. Been in the shop four times to try and stop a leak. Replaced the seal, then the frame, then the whole window unit. Two months later the frame cracked again and every time it rains the floorboards fill up with water. Chevy says they can't work on it anymore until they design a new back window. Wish I had never bought the sliding window in the first place! Silicone, silicone silicone, and I only have 24K miles!

mledtje · June 2001

My dealer has been replacing rear sliders with aftermarket windows since GM will no longer supply replacements. They send the truck out to a local shop for replacements.

The CR Laurence window I got is metal framed and much better than the factory POS.

Mike L

pilot9999 · June 2001

My new truck has a noise that could be tire noise,
wind noise, bearing noise. Only occurs above 50mph and I cannot connect it positively to any of
the above guesses. Sounds like a siren sometimes,
a dry bearing other times. Road surface changes do not make it go away. It is not consistent, comes and goes at will. Occurs about 50% of driving time. I have 800 miles on it. Any help?

schifer · June 2001

I have been getting a whirring/singing noise on my 2001 Z71 extra cab. It sounds like someone playing a flute. It only happens when the temp is above 90 degrees F and the speed is above 60 MPH. It is not engine as it is not there when I coast with the engine off.

I am sure it is aerodymanic, as wind gusts affect it. My truck is completely stock, no bug deflector or anything else. It is just weird.

Scott S.

brbarber · June 2001

Picked up my new 2001 Silverado XCAB, 5.3 V8 w/Auto tranny in 2WD last Saturday. Drove 150 miles and truck began shifting VERY hard between 1st and 2nd when accelerating. Drove 100 miles back to dealership and had to drop it off. Found out Friday that they have ordered parts for the tranny but they did not sound very confident. Any one else with this type of problem ????? Truck has less than 260 miles on it.

toor · June 2001

I've come to the conclusion that the squeaking/popping isn't coming from my nerf bars, as I originally thought.

When my truck is in park, if I push the truck bed from side to side, or up and down, I get a squeaky, squeaky, squeak.
I think while driving and going slowly over rough areas, or when braking around turns, going in and out of driveways, it creates the same kind of force so I get that sound.
Do you guys know what I'm talking about??
Would you happen to know what is causing it???
The next availabe service appt is 7/6.
Kind of a long time away.
Thanks

obyone · June 2001

Bulletin No.:
99-03-08-002A

File In Section:
03 - Suspension

Date:
February, 2000

Subject:
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)

Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra 2WD 1500 Series)

This bulletin is being revised to update Model Year and Correction information and change the part number. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-08-002 (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition

Some owners may comment about front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.

Cause

The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.

Correction
A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the appropriate Silverado and Sierra Service Manual for coil spring removal/installation procedures.

This new insulator replaces any existing coil spring insulators. Remove and discard the existing insulator before installing the new insulator. Use the part number listed.

Parts Information

P/N Description Oty
15756770 Insulator, Front 2
Spring

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use information shown in image.

toor · June 2001

the noise is not from the front.
It is definately from the rear.
Right in the area where the cab ends and the bed begins.

redsilverado · June 2001

exactly where mine is as well. even after the weather strip lubing and all nuts and bolts tightened up, there is still a noise that sounds like something is shifting. i actually opened both the front and rear doors, then closed the rear, (but not all the way) then the front. drove over the same driveway entry, and no noise. then closed the doors tight, drove through same area, noise is there. i'm lettin em do the work though. if i really become annoyed, maybe i'll dissasemble the rear half of the truck and rebuild, using a box of silicone sealant. LOL.
thank god i upgraded the stereo.

jaguar0027 · June 2001

Guys,

After checking the left rear door I think that is where the squeak is coming from! I can see where the rear latch is hitting the U shaped hook incorrectly. My question is... should I use Lubriplate or Silicone Grease to "silence" the problem. Or should I take it to the dealer? I was told the doors were "self adjusting"..

Also.. is there a specific kind of lubriplate that is good for metal to metal???

Thanks.

redsilverado · June 2001

my squeak was isolated to the rear door, and i was given a free (large) tube of dielectric silicone grease. they lube the latches with it and the owners manual recommends it as well for the weatherstripping. after doing so like i posted a few posts back, the cab was as quiet as new. only a craking noise left to work out. i've heard that the doors were self adjusting as well, but after asking the tech., he asked me how could they self adjust with a strike that is locked in one position. he said he's heard that rumor before, but rest assured, they are not. do what you want, but as good a lubricant that lubriplate is, it will stain whatever it touches.

jaguar0027 · June 2001

You bring up a good point about lubriplate. I will check into the dielectric silicone grease and give it a shot!

Thanks and good luck on that damn craking noise!

redsilverado · June 2001

sorry about that, but i'm too plastered to deal with edmunds so called spellchecker. it scews up more words than it fixes....LOL

toor · June 2001

I don't think my squeaks are from the door.
More from the rear of the truck. Around the springs somewhere.
are you getting rattles from your rear door?

redsilverado · June 2001

i dynamatted and stuffed em with foam. i'm with you on the spring theory, noise seems to happen only when there would be pivot movement in the springs. seems like evertime i work any squeak or rattle out, another noise stands up and wants attention. LOL

pilot9999 · June 2001

Sounds like the same noise. Since I have a crew
cab and you have the extended cab it must be from
the front sheet metal/window configuration. Maybe
a little duct tape could diagnose the source. Have
you checked the weatherstrip for fit?
Tom K.

eric2001 · June 2001

Try jumping on the bumper a few times then stand on the sde of the bed & rock the bed. Which made the noise?

If the bumper jump made the noise, rear suspension is your culprit & dealer may put isolators between leafs. If it is the bed, I would try checking your bed mounts, make sure they are all tightened (4 mounts still I believe). Hope this helps (frustrating I know).
-Eric

witchata · June 2001

I have the same truck and had the problem at about 150 miles and have driven two others like mine with the same problem. Mine goes from a sloppy to a very hard shift. I am told there is no fix at this time but it will likely be a program fix. I understand that the problem started to reappear about five months ago. I was led to believe that it is a problem with pressure falling off too soon at time of shift. Seems to do better when truck has not reached operating temp. If you get any info, please share and I will do the same.

toor · June 2001

Up and down, AND side to side.
The sounds is coming from the front center of the bed. In between the rear window and the truck bed. I can hear it from the gap right there.

What do the 4 bed mounts look like? Rubber bumpers or just bolts?

Thanks

eric2001 · June 2001

Both ways, huh? Mounts used to be bolts through bed & frame, not sure on the new ones, though. Try looking under between frame rails & crossover braces, should see something along those lines (I believe). I will check mine in the AM & get back to you.

Two other possibilities (reaching now) maybe the gas tank straps/mounting or (really grasping now) could your exhaust hangers be missing rubber bushings?

I hope it is just something simple like loose bed mount. Best of luck.
-Eric

schifer · June 2001

I have not tried tracking it down yet. Since it only whistles above 90 degrees, I have to drive inland from the coast a ways (I live in Torrance CA). I also suspect the radio antenna.

I am heading up to San Jose soon so I will try a few things.

Scott S.

professor4 · June 2001

Anyone experiencing a whistling noise while their truck is being accelerated, starting at about 45 mph? Previous fix was to replace the entire rear end, and that worked for 7 or 8000 miles. Now Chevrolet is telling the dealer to try several other things, none of which have worked. (2000, 5.3, 4.10 rear, 4wd, 15,000 miles.)

Thanks.

sf0383 · June 2001

I'll ask the question in a different way. I have a 2001 2500HD CC with the 6.0L. It has developed the knocking at cold start up that is being referred to here as piston slap due to carbon build up. Since there doesn't seem to be a fix for the problem my question is; Is it hurting anything? Should I pursue the top end soak or different plugs or just wait and see if a permanent solution is developed?

wight1 · June 2001

tell me a little more about what you did to get rid of your rear door rattles. Mine is still rattling and I need to work on it. Still waiting on the plastic washers from Westin, but still not 100% sure that's the problem. While driving on some really bumpy roads this weekend, noise is in the left front - could be the bar mounts, but also could be coil spring isolator noise that obyone posted about. Dealer swears its not the spring isolators, but I'm going to do a second round of surgery this coming weekend and track it down.

ryanbab · June 2001

http://forums.pickuptruck.com/Forum11/HTML/005268.html

wight1 · June 2001

I had the engine top soak done on my 2000 6.0l about a month ago. The knock went away immediately, but its back again after only about 1000 miles. I've read other people have had the same results with the engine soak, so I'm not sure its worth it. Mine's been knocking for about 20,000 miles now and nothing has blown up yet, but don't know what the long term effect will be.

sf0383 · June 2001

Thanks for the input. I think I will wait it out for a little while and see if they come up with a fix instead of a patch. I frankly don't trust a dealer service department to change the spark plugs without screwing it up.

obyone · June 2001

The result of waiting could be the tips of the plugs falling off, never to be found again.

wight1

Usually the isolator noise will go away on rainy days as the water and humidity lubricates it. When fair weather returns, so does the isolator noise. That knock noise you got is not a good one. It is related to excessive clearance in the main bearings. No one knows the long term effects of it, but I would think it will only get worse as the clearance increases over time.

pilot9999 · June 2001

Let me know if you find anything. I live in
Lake Havasu, AZ where it is never below 90 degrees
so I can't comment on the temperature connection.
Passing trucks on the freeway sometimes affected
it but not always.
Tom K

wight1 · June 2001

I think you have confirmed my suspicion about the coil spring noise. I noticed the noise is not there on rainy days. I did spray some of the famous Permatex silicone lube up in there, but that didn't seem to make any difference - maybe I should try some Lubriplate - LOL!

I don't know about the engine knock. It sounds like a bottom end noise (rod or main bearings) but many folks say its the carbon build up problem in the cylinders. If it were the rod or main bearings, how does the application of GM Top Engine Cleaner for carbon deposits make the noise go away?

redsilverado · June 2001

i went as far as pulling the clip that retains the pivot on the hinge in place and lifting the rear door high enough off the hinge pin to squeeze some silicone grease in there. then a small amount of grease on the latches. after that i wiped the weatherstripping with the same grease (biggest effect) to finally eliminate sqeaking and creaking. since i upgraded the stereo, i invested in the soundproofing material known as "dynamatt" and applied it to the door outerskin and inside metal frame. then i stuffed foam in and around the keepers of the interior door panel.

obyone · June 2001

Regarding the top cleaner...that's a good question. I don't have the answer to that one only as a cause and effect. The top cleaner provides temporary relief from the knock but returns as carbon builds up. It may be a relation between the two. I would have to research this. Could you tell me what the purpose of the top cleaner, exactly what is it supposed to clean?

toor · June 2001

That sound that I thought was from the nerf bars, and now I confirm is not.........
well, today when i took my truck out I noticed that it occurs mainly when going around curves or over bumps at slow speeds or even when braking.
Does this mean anything?? I guess it's when the frame is in a flex position.
Sceduled to take the truck in on Wednesday. Hopefully the techs can figure out what the hell it is that is causing that noise.
Anyone want to take a guess?

wight1 · June 2001

obyone,
the GM Top Engine Cleaner product has been around for years. Its a cleaner made exclusively for removal of carbon deposits on the piston crowns and the cylinder heads. A couple of independent garages in my area even say its the best they have found for cleaning up combustion chamber deposits - one time years ago when I had my wife's Olds in for a tune-up and carb overhaul (yes, that long ago) at a local garage, the guy said he wanted to use the GM cleaner because the carb had been so bad out of adjustment, it was dumping a ton of fuel in there.

When I recently got my truck back from the dealer last month after the carbon removal, I noticed an odor from the exhaust which they said was just some of the residual cleaner being burned off - the odor went away the following day. Interestingly, the smell was exactly the same odor I noticed when I used OMC Engine Cleaner to remove the carbon deposits in my outboard motor. That stuff really worked too - you sprayed it in the carbs and let it soak for a few hours. When you start it back up, it belches clouds of white smoke for awhile which really stinks and the carbon comes pouring out the prop exhaust. I was wondering if OMC just borrowed GM's formula or vice versa!

toor,
sounds like a frame flex problem, maybe loose bed mount bolts or bad mount rubber bushings.

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