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Chevy Silverado Problems

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Comments

  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Obyone, it's designed to clean abnormal carbon deposits from pistons/heads, how our new engines are getting all this carbon (as the dealers assume) is beyond me. My 5.3 also knocks but only on start up and as soon as the oil is flowing it's gone. I feel it's coming from the lower end. I'm no genius but 35 years of working on vehicles is telling me I have to much clearance/tolerance on either the piston wrist pins or more than likely the rod end bearings. GM itself has stated that they tightened up the clearance on the newer engines for 2001 so who knows what long term affect will be, hopefully enough complaints will be recieved by NHTSA to warrant GM to give extended warranties to those with the problem or replace your engine (don't hold your breath on that one now). My 2c.

    Ray T.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    we're in the same boat when it comes to this mysterious noise. mine only happens at very low speeds and like you said, when the frame seems to be in a flex.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    how many of you hear a snap/pop sound when startin up your 5.3L?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    only when i eat rice krispies do i hear snap krackle and pop
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Anyone experience any trouble with the passlock security system on their truck? I just had my remote starter disconnected from it to verify if it's the factory security or the remote start. The guys at the audio shop say they've found it to be the factory system in 3 other gm vehicles.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Rememeber reading something about that in the manual. Includes the radio. Not too sure but the radio's been removed.

    wight1/rayt2

    I remember using that stuff on my '64 Galaxie 500, remember that one? Belches of white smoke that smelled like cr*p. I think GM has come out with it as a temp fix and hopefully you won't return to the dealer. I agree with Ray on this one on the rod end bearings. Since I play my stereo loud, can't hear it on start up or at idle. However, when I get out of the truck, I can hear the knocking at idle. I have a 6/100K bumper to bumper so I haven't been too concerned.

    Have an appointment to fix my seat cushion for the third time next Tuesday so I can ask at the same time. BTW, being the third time for the seat cushion could I qualify for lemon law? hehe The cushion bulges after awhile. I can believe if it sunk from the weight but the opposite is happening.

    red-
    snap, crackle? first I heard of that. Now as ryan said, I'd get concerned if you hear all three of them...snap, crackle, and pop. lol
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Bulletin No.: 99-08-64-016

    Date: September, 1999

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Use of Silicone for Weatherstrip Maintenance

    Models:
    2000 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks

    In the past, questions have been raised regarding the proper care and maintenance of weatherstrips. The purpose of this bulletin is to clarify which materials are recommended for use when required.

    Periodically, a thin coating of silicone grease can prolong the life of the weatherstrip. The silicone will reduce wear in the contact areas as well as reduce squeaking and sticking conditions. During very cold or damp weather, more frequent applications may be necessary.

    Important: Be careful in areas where clothing may come in contact with the weatherstrips as silicone or dirt may be transferred to clothing.

    Parts Information
    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Engine Noise
    Bulletin No.:
    00-06-01-001

    File In Section:
    06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Date:
    February, 2000

    Subject:
    Engine Noise (Check/Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)

    Models:
    1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra) with 4.8 L or 5.3 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T -RPOs LR4, LM7) Built within the VIN breakpoints shown in image.

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a whirling sound from the lower rear side of the engine. This occurs as the engine warms up, between 1500 and 2000 engine RPM. The sound may not be present on a cold engine.

    Cause

    The crankshaft position sensor may be making contact with the reluctor ring.

    Correction

    IMPORTANT: Dealers may encounter a few vehicles, shipped from the vehicle assembly plants, which have a 2nd rubber 0-ring installed over the crankshaft position sensor, and a copper shim under the mounting tab.




    1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor (1), and check for witness marks caused by contact with the reluctor ring. Reference the Service Manual procedure as needed.

    2. If no witness marks are evident on the crankshaft position sensor (1):

    IMPORTANT: Do not place an additional shim washer (2) on the crankshaft position sensor (1), if one was not previously installed.

    2.1. Reinstall the original crankshaft position sensor (1) with any 0-rings and shims that may have been previously installed.

    Tighten

    Tighten the mounting bolt (4) to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

    2.2. Continue with standard diagnostic procedures.

    3. If witness marks are evident on the crankshaft position sensor (1):

    ^ If a shim washer and/or 0-ring had been previously installed: call Technical Assistance for additional instructions

    ^ If a shim washer and/or 0-ring is not present:

    3.1. Place a shim washer (2) P/N 12565102 on a new crankshaft position sensor.

    3.2. Install the new crankshaft position sensor (1) with the mounting bolt (4).

    Tighten

    Tighten the mounting bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

    3.3. Perform the Crank Angle Sensing Error (CASE) re-learn procedure.

    3.4. With the engine at operating temperature, verify the correction of the noise condition.

    Parts Information

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
    Warranty Information

    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use chart.
  • valkyvalky Member Posts: 21
    Could it be that the carbon build-up in the cylinders is increasing the compression ratio, thereby, putting more pressure on the rod bearings?

    Is it feasible that when they do the top engine clean that it takes the cylinders back to a stock ratio, thereby, reducing or eliminating the knock?

    Just a couple of questions I've kicked around.

    Valky
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    Well my westin spacers just arrived.
    Came in a normal envelope. I was like, what is this?

    They are definately not what I expected. But if they do the job!
    There are 4- 1mm thick round plastic spacers.
    Same size as the rubber cab mounts. you just put them inbetween the step bracket and the cab mount I guess.
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    I believe Theftlock is for the radio, passlock is for the security system. Evidently to do with sensing the correct key in the ignition-funny the key looks like an ordinary key.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    A little secret. I had a key made a Home Depot using the old style C/K key. What happens when I use this spare key is that the rado starts up and runs normally. So much for the coded key. Now if someone used a screwdriver...well that might be a different story.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Obyone.......You sure your not the test marketer for GM? you come up with the weirdest problems, you must be kin to those crash test dummies only you get to try out the trucks before they crash'em, haha. I'd say a seat spring has dislodged from it's place thus causing the "bulge" and if you qualified for "lemon law" on that one I'd say the arbitrator has been puffin on that Maui Waui to long LOL. Home Depot replacement key starting the Rado??, so much for that computer chip in our key rings to prevent theft!
    As for the engine knock were there any TSB's issued for that or did they just issue you the extended warranty to shut you up hoping you'd go away? Boy were they mistaken!LOL

    Ray T.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Not sure what they did the last two times on the seat. All I know is that it went in with the material lifting on the seat and they returned it with the seat as flat as a pancake. Like they steamed it or something to make the material shrink. I guess they gave up and will be sending to upholtery shop.

    They are also stumped on the child safety harness as I wanted one. GM sent two harnesses which both don't fit. So now they are looking for one that matches the picture in my service manual.

    There are no TSB's for the knocking sound. Maybe if enough customers complain...they'd be forced to issue one.
  • hunter48hunter48 Member Posts: 30
    When starting it sounds like lifters knocking like the oil pump lost its prime, and when you get above 2300 rpm it sounds like piston slap, truck has 12,000 on it, GM said thats normal I don't think so. If it weren't for the gas engine sounding like a diesel it would be a geat truck!!
  • jrpkcjrpkc Member Posts: 3
    Anyone experiencing a piter-patter type rattle coming from the Captains Chair Style passenger seat? Can't seam to locate source?
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    The key is not coded on newer GMs, the smarts are in the key cylinder. There are hall effect sensors that put out a code read from the high and low spots on the key, sort of like the mechnical key locks. The computer knows what the code should be.

    The neat thing about this system is that you can use normal keys. It is a great idea, more so if you ever had to buy a $100 dollar key!
  • valkyvalky Member Posts: 21
    Jrpkc,

    I had this noise. What I found was the metal part on the seat belt buckle on the passenger side rattling against the plastic button. I just moved the buckle down over the button and the noise was gone. I hope this is it. Good luck

    Valky
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    thanks for the TSB. i knew there was one, but haven't seen it since the link at ryan's site died. at least now, i'm down to a faint "dink donk" sound in the rear.
    on the snap/pop sound that the engine makes sometimes, it reminds me of our '68 olds Delta 88 that had a high compression 455. it always had that snap sound when firing up. engine ran well into the 100,000's without using so much as a 1/4 of a quart of oil between changes. on my 5.3 the oil pressure always stays above 50 psi at idle and higher at highway speeds, so i'm not gonna worry about it.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    theres a new site.

    Ill email you tonight when i get home ok

    Ryan
  • fried2fried2 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 extended cab/auto trans/2WD locking differential with about 4200 miles. I have changed the oil once at about 2800. I have a "ticking" sound when starting the truck, hot or cold engine. Within a minute or two it disappates. Sounds like a lifter? Also, was driving through a grassy field the other day, less than 10mph and the truck began "stuttering". Would not go away by shifting to a lower gear, lasted several minutes. No symptoms once back on paved road. Could not tell if the engine was missing, trans slipping, or ABS doing something funny.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    in the grassy field was it slick? SOunds like your locker engaged.

    If you were under 15-20mph then this is what could have happened
  • wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    have you put those plastic spacers in yet? Mine came in the mail yesterday. I was thinking they might work, since they look a lot like the factory spacers used on the top cab bushings. I'm also thinking about removing the brace from the bracket to the truck frame - the bracket seems pretty substantial on its own. That might stop any noise between the bracket and the brace.
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    Took my 2001 (w/ only 290miles on it) in to the dealer today to see what the creaking/popping when going in and out of driveways, or making slow turns was about.
    Took all day, and they still don't know.
    They are waiting for an answer from GM on the mainland (i'm in Hawaii). But the answer won't come till tomorrow due to the time difference.
    So my truck is just sitting at the dealer.
    Something about wanting to get measurements and specs.

    wight-I put the spacers in. I guess it makes a little difference, but w/ this other creaking sound that Im' dealing with, I really can't tell.
    I also took the braces off. I didn't feel that they were necessary, but I think I will put them back on later. It does make a little difference.
    I think you'll see as well, once you take them off, that it's probably better to leave on.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What is the name of the dealership in Hawaii that you have your truck stuck at. Just curious as there are two others that could work on your truck other than the one you're at.
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    it's at JN right now. I bought it there about 3 weeks ago.
    I called Waipahu but they can't get me in for another two weeks.
    I heard some stories about JN. Are they true?
  • dgeddesdgeddes Member Posts: 10
    I to have the 6.0..At 14,000 miles had the top end cleaner done for the knock.. That silenced it for about 100 miles. Now I'm back to the diesel sound on start-up. I was told by the service mgr. that new pistons are the cure, but no definite answer from GM yet. Has anyone had this problem resolved, or are the dealers just throwing out extended warranties to cover this... Any inputs would be greatly appreciated
  • briandudebriandude Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton Ex. cab 4x4 5.3,4.10 Rearend. I was towing a 5000lb camping trailer up steep grades and experenced a (Burning Propane Smell) I didn't know what it was at the time. When I got home from the trip I noticed the paint on the rearend bubbled off. Has anyone else encounter this problem? Any solutions? I am planning to take the truck to the dealer for sevice.
  • gmonkeygmonkey Member Posts: 5
    Hey at least you guys got a choice I've got only Kuhio Motors here on Kaua'i. I was going to get a Sierra but I think I'll try and order a Rado with the PRO TEC box it should be worth the extra $790.
  • wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    I pull a 6500# camper with my 2500. The paint has blistered off the axle cover and it seems like its pretty hot when towing. I've never noticed any odor from it. My dealer says no, its just cheap paint, there's nothing wrong with your axle. I just ordered and received an aftermarket axle cover - its ribbed aluminum and holds about an additional quart of fluid and is supposed to dissipate heat better. I'll be putting it on this weekned. When I pull the old cover off, I plan to look everything over real good inside to see if there is any sign of overheating.
  • schwebschweb Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 1/2 ton extended cab and I am starting to have problems with the 4 wheel drive on it. When I put it into 4 wheel and try to pull out, it hesitates for about 10 seconds before it moves. And I know that 4 wheel drives tend to turn harder than normal 2 wheel drive, but unless I keep the gas pedal down to the floor, it will stop turning. I had it in the dealership once and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Any ideas?
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Do you have the autotrac electronic transfer case, or the handle on the floor?

    It helps to be rolling forward in "D" at 1 mph when you select 4HI. If you are trying to select 4LO, you have to be stopped, in "N", with parking brake set, I believe.

    If you have difficulty turning the steering wheel in 4wd, while that's normal it's also a sign that you are on a high traction surface. 4wd is a part-time system meant for slippery surfaces, snow, ice, sand, mud etc.

    Some people turn 4HI on in the winter, and don't turn it off again until spring, but this just causes accelerated wear on the driveline.
  • schwebschweb Member Posts: 3
    I have the handle on the floor. I've never put the truck in 4low. I haven't had to use that one yet. And I don't keep it in 4HI all winter. I only put it in when I need it.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I also have the 4wd shifter on the floor, and all seems to work as I expect it too.

    Could you describe the surface you are driving on when you have difficulty? Is is asphalt just before pulling onto loose dirt, or is it a grassy field or??

    And what do you mean by 'it will stop turning'. Are you talking about the wheels turning (moving straight forward), or is the steering wheel cranked to one side, and the truck stops tuning the turn you are trying to make?

    If you are on a high traction surface (could be dirt, grass or off road on big rocks) and you turn the steering wheel, the system tends to bind up. That is caused by the front wheels wanting to turn a tighter turn than the rears. That means the fronts are traveling a shorter distance than the rears, but they are forced to turn at the same speed by the locked transfer case. So the system binds up until something slips (tire spins) or breaks (U-joint or axle). Unless a tire can spin, you will find it very hard to move.

    If you are trying to go straight, it should be no problem, even on asphalt or concrete, for a short distance.

    Mike L
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Seems like all three dealerships are tied up. JN has been sending people over to Cutter, especially people who haven't bought their truck from JN. Tells you something about them. I've had my own war stories with JN but that's for another day. So Servco had a two week backlog? Hehe, so does Cutter. Unless push comes to shove I'll usually wait the two weeks. Funny thing though, I have to wait two weeks for an appoinment for Cutter to send my truck to an upholtery shop to work on my seat. Does that make sense? Didn't think so.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I think ordering would be your best bet. I would order one the next time around. And not from a dealer in Hawaii. Seems most people posting are buying their trucks at or around invoice...which is pretty much impossible here especially with dealers having that additional dealer markup of around $5-$6K above MSRP.

    I was interested in a 1500HD and a 2500HD but with what they offered for a trade, negotiations lasted only 10 minutes......
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    First of all, my truck is done.
    JN called this morning and said that they lubed everything and retorqued all bolts.
    Squeak/cracking is apparently gone. But I'll be the judge of that when I go pick it up.

    Second, I got my 1500 Ext cab for 500 over invoice. I looked at the F150 at Cutter and McKenna, the tundra at Toyota City, and the Rado at JN. I kept going from one to the other w/ better prices. And finally JN offered the best.
    Had the F150 SuperCab for $25000. Tundra for about $27000.

    GOod luck w/ your seat.
    Did you get your truck from cutter?
  • schwebschweb Member Posts: 3
    THe surface has either been grass or loose dirt. What I mean by it stops turning is when I take my foot off of the gas and its in 4wheel drive, the truck stops immediately, no matter if I'm going straight or in a turn. The thing is that this is the first 4 wheel drive I've owned and I'm not sure what to expect from it.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    That's not right. Sounds like something's binding up real bad.
    -- Don
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    That's where I got mine. They've been pretty good about warranty issues, especially when I walk in with all the required TSB's. Researched the seat a little. Seems like they are using either no glue or the wrong glue....we will see.
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    where do you get all of your TSB's from?
  • bucksportbucksport Member Posts: 5
    Greetings - Took delivery of 01 Silverado ext cab 4x4, 6.5 box, yesterday. It now has 150 miles on it. Made mistake of not taking truck out on the freeway during test drive. Wife drove it home and said it shook at avery slight bump. I Checked air in tires when she got home. 47 psi in each tire. (How could dealer let this get by?) I let it out to 35. She drove it 100 miles today and its no better. I drove it this evening and it shakes/bounces at every bump in pavement. Anyone had similar problem? Any suggestions? I kind of rule out alignment and wheel doesnt feel like tires are out of bal but they might be/ Its to the dealer tomorow AM. Regards, Buck
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    where do you get all of your TSB's from?
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    is it safe to assume that this bouncy ride occurs only on the freeway? if it is, do the freeways you are driving on have the expansion joints? if so, you are not alone. a lot of our freeways in CA are cement w/expansion joints. if you could lay a striaght edge from one joint to the next, you'd see light in the middle. there are a few places that i will go around cuz the trucks have beat the daylights out of the cement slabs, and make my truck ride like a friggin pogo stick. at least now, Cal-Trans has started resurfacing our cement freeways with asphalt. super smooth ride now.
  • bucksportbucksport Member Posts: 5
    This occurs on all the roads at variying speeds.
    Buck
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    is that they have to be resurfaced too often. It's the wheelbase that's the cause of the problem. Just a little too long and the truck's spring suspension...this is one that the dealer will say..."they all do that" and he won't be lying.


    Besides that, the stock shocks are pretty much worthless...and if you have the firestone or general tires, that's another source as these tires are really a POS.


    toor


    You can get some of the TSB's here:

    http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html


    and PCM updates here:


    http://calid.gm.com/vci/

  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    a -- what oby just said
    b -- 1500 or 2500? Z-71 or what?
    -- Don
  • toortoor Member Posts: 38
    Ok. My creaking/popping rear was fixed by the dealer over the past two days, but today when I was washing my rado this evening, I noticed that the black rear bumper cover was all scratched up.
    Apparently, the mechanic/technician, took off my tailgate and bumper and did somthing under there too. I called the service dept, but since I didn't catch it while at the shop, they said there is no way to prove it was them.
    Moral of the story........check you car/truck good before leaving the shop.

    Now, I need to know....is it easy to pop off that black plastic cover that is on top of the metal rear bumper?? I took a look under and it looks like it snaps in. Am I right??
    hopefully I can get one online for a reasonable price and just pop the scratched one off and put the new one on.
    I don't need to buy a whole new rear bumper do I?
    I hope they just sell the black plastic cover.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    while under there did you notice any rust? lots of people were reporting rust on the inside of the bumpers. If no one answers the question on the rubber part of the bumper, I could look it up in the shop manual.

    You may want to try gmpartsdirect.com for the rubber part of the bumper. Do not be misled though cause this is a regular dealer who sells at retail - 25% and isn't GM selling parts direct to the end user. If you can't find the part or the part no. just fill out the customer request form with the description of the part and the truck and they will get back to you on the part no.
  • bucksportbucksport Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for responses. This is a 1500 with General tires. Buck
This discussion has been closed.