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Chevy Silverado Problems
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Comments
Ray T.
wight1/rayt2
I remember using that stuff on my '64 Galaxie 500, remember that one? Belches of white smoke that smelled like cr*p. I think GM has come out with it as a temp fix and hopefully you won't return to the dealer. I agree with Ray on this one on the rod end bearings. Since I play my stereo loud, can't hear it on start up or at idle. However, when I get out of the truck, I can hear the knocking at idle. I have a 6/100K bumper to bumper so I haven't been too concerned.
Have an appointment to fix my seat cushion for the third time next Tuesday so I can ask at the same time. BTW, being the third time for the seat cushion could I qualify for lemon law? hehe The cushion bulges after awhile. I can believe if it sunk from the weight but the opposite is happening.
red-
snap, crackle? first I heard of that. Now as ryan said, I'd get concerned if you hear all three of them...snap, crackle, and pop. lol
Date: September, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject:
Use of Silicone for Weatherstrip Maintenance
Models:
2000 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
In the past, questions have been raised regarding the proper care and maintenance of weatherstrips. The purpose of this bulletin is to clarify which materials are recommended for use when required.
Periodically, a thin coating of silicone grease can prolong the life of the weatherstrip. The silicone will reduce wear in the contact areas as well as reduce squeaking and sticking conditions. During very cold or damp weather, more frequent applications may be necessary.
Important: Be careful in areas where clothing may come in contact with the weatherstrips as silicone or dirt may be transferred to clothing.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Bulletin No.:
00-06-01-001
File In Section:
06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Date:
February, 2000
Subject:
Engine Noise (Check/Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models:
1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra) with 4.8 L or 5.3 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T -RPOs LR4, LM7) Built within the VIN breakpoints shown in image.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a whirling sound from the lower rear side of the engine. This occurs as the engine warms up, between 1500 and 2000 engine RPM. The sound may not be present on a cold engine.
Cause
The crankshaft position sensor may be making contact with the reluctor ring.
Correction
IMPORTANT: Dealers may encounter a few vehicles, shipped from the vehicle assembly plants, which have a 2nd rubber 0-ring installed over the crankshaft position sensor, and a copper shim under the mounting tab.
1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor (1), and check for witness marks caused by contact with the reluctor ring. Reference the Service Manual procedure as needed.
2. If no witness marks are evident on the crankshaft position sensor (1):
IMPORTANT: Do not place an additional shim washer (2) on the crankshaft position sensor (1), if one was not previously installed.
2.1. Reinstall the original crankshaft position sensor (1) with any 0-rings and shims that may have been previously installed.
Tighten
Tighten the mounting bolt (4) to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
2.2. Continue with standard diagnostic procedures.
3. If witness marks are evident on the crankshaft position sensor (1):
^ If a shim washer and/or 0-ring had been previously installed: call Technical Assistance for additional instructions
^ If a shim washer and/or 0-ring is not present:
3.1. Place a shim washer (2) P/N 12565102 on a new crankshaft position sensor.
3.2. Install the new crankshaft position sensor (1) with the mounting bolt (4).
Tighten
Tighten the mounting bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
3.3. Perform the Crank Angle Sensing Error (CASE) re-learn procedure.
3.4. With the engine at operating temperature, verify the correction of the noise condition.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use chart.
Is it feasible that when they do the top engine clean that it takes the cylinders back to a stock ratio, thereby, reducing or eliminating the knock?
Just a couple of questions I've kicked around.
Valky
Came in a normal envelope. I was like, what is this?
They are definately not what I expected. But if they do the job!
There are 4- 1mm thick round plastic spacers.
Same size as the rubber cab mounts. you just put them inbetween the step bracket and the cab mount I guess.
As for the engine knock were there any TSB's issued for that or did they just issue you the extended warranty to shut you up hoping you'd go away? Boy were they mistaken!LOL
Ray T.
They are also stumped on the child safety harness as I wanted one. GM sent two harnesses which both don't fit. So now they are looking for one that matches the picture in my service manual.
There are no TSB's for the knocking sound. Maybe if enough customers complain...they'd be forced to issue one.
The neat thing about this system is that you can use normal keys. It is a great idea, more so if you ever had to buy a $100 dollar key!
I had this noise. What I found was the metal part on the seat belt buckle on the passenger side rattling against the plastic button. I just moved the buckle down over the button and the noise was gone. I hope this is it. Good luck
Valky
on the snap/pop sound that the engine makes sometimes, it reminds me of our '68 olds Delta 88 that had a high compression 455. it always had that snap sound when firing up. engine ran well into the 100,000's without using so much as a 1/4 of a quart of oil between changes. on my 5.3 the oil pressure always stays above 50 psi at idle and higher at highway speeds, so i'm not gonna worry about it.
Ill email you tonight when i get home ok
Ryan
If you were under 15-20mph then this is what could have happened
Took all day, and they still don't know.
They are waiting for an answer from GM on the mainland (i'm in Hawaii). But the answer won't come till tomorrow due to the time difference.
So my truck is just sitting at the dealer.
Something about wanting to get measurements and specs.
wight-I put the spacers in. I guess it makes a little difference, but w/ this other creaking sound that Im' dealing with, I really can't tell.
I also took the braces off. I didn't feel that they were necessary, but I think I will put them back on later. It does make a little difference.
I think you'll see as well, once you take them off, that it's probably better to leave on.
I called Waipahu but they can't get me in for another two weeks.
I heard some stories about JN. Are they true?
It helps to be rolling forward in "D" at 1 mph when you select 4HI. If you are trying to select 4LO, you have to be stopped, in "N", with parking brake set, I believe.
If you have difficulty turning the steering wheel in 4wd, while that's normal it's also a sign that you are on a high traction surface. 4wd is a part-time system meant for slippery surfaces, snow, ice, sand, mud etc.
Some people turn 4HI on in the winter, and don't turn it off again until spring, but this just causes accelerated wear on the driveline.
Could you describe the surface you are driving on when you have difficulty? Is is asphalt just before pulling onto loose dirt, or is it a grassy field or??
And what do you mean by 'it will stop turning'. Are you talking about the wheels turning (moving straight forward), or is the steering wheel cranked to one side, and the truck stops tuning the turn you are trying to make?
If you are on a high traction surface (could be dirt, grass or off road on big rocks) and you turn the steering wheel, the system tends to bind up. That is caused by the front wheels wanting to turn a tighter turn than the rears. That means the fronts are traveling a shorter distance than the rears, but they are forced to turn at the same speed by the locked transfer case. So the system binds up until something slips (tire spins) or breaks (U-joint or axle). Unless a tire can spin, you will find it very hard to move.
If you are trying to go straight, it should be no problem, even on asphalt or concrete, for a short distance.
Mike L
I was interested in a 1500HD and a 2500HD but with what they offered for a trade, negotiations lasted only 10 minutes......
JN called this morning and said that they lubed everything and retorqued all bolts.
Squeak/cracking is apparently gone. But I'll be the judge of that when I go pick it up.
Second, I got my 1500 Ext cab for 500 over invoice. I looked at the F150 at Cutter and McKenna, the tundra at Toyota City, and the Rado at JN. I kept going from one to the other w/ better prices. And finally JN offered the best.
Had the F150 SuperCab for $25000. Tundra for about $27000.
GOod luck w/ your seat.
Did you get your truck from cutter?
-- Don
Buck
Besides that, the stock shocks are pretty much worthless...and if you have the firestone or general tires, that's another source as these tires are really a POS.
toor
You can get some of the TSB's here:
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html
and PCM updates here:
http://calid.gm.com/vci/
b -- 1500 or 2500? Z-71 or what?
-- Don
Apparently, the mechanic/technician, took off my tailgate and bumper and did somthing under there too. I called the service dept, but since I didn't catch it while at the shop, they said there is no way to prove it was them.
Moral of the story........check you car/truck good before leaving the shop.
Now, I need to know....is it easy to pop off that black plastic cover that is on top of the metal rear bumper?? I took a look under and it looks like it snaps in. Am I right??
hopefully I can get one online for a reasonable price and just pop the scratched one off and put the new one on.
I don't need to buy a whole new rear bumper do I?
I hope they just sell the black plastic cover.
You may want to try gmpartsdirect.com for the rubber part of the bumper. Do not be misled though cause this is a regular dealer who sells at retail - 25% and isn't GM selling parts direct to the end user. If you can't find the part or the part no. just fill out the customer request form with the description of the part and the truck and they will get back to you on the part no.