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Jeep Liberty

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Comments

  • pitbouvpitbouv Member Posts: 7
    Swapped out the stock Goodyear Wrangler SR-A's for a set of Uniroyal Liberator AT's (Wal-Mart flashing blue-light special LOL!) and my GOSH... you'd think I had an entirely new vehicle! It handles 100% better so far, but haven't had them in rain yet. All the jostling and slushy feel when on-center are gone. The only thing I can't figure is why in the world Jeep designed a supposed "off-road" ready vehicle, yet made the wheel well moldings so intrusive as to not allow a larger tire without lifting the suspension. I had put 235-75-15's on my old stock Tracker and they fit and worked great (and looked super!). But with the Liberty (take a look at the front wheel wells and how the molding fits in there), you are stuck with the 235-70-16's or equivelant. As for the transmission... it's still doing "the bump." So obviously the supposed "fix" in 2004 did not happen or it happened after the time they made my Jeep. No rattles and I average about 18 mpg, but I live in Florida where it is flat and the weather ranges from hot, humid, hurricane and bug-infested to mild and comfortable. My Jeep was bought due to Hurricane Charley (we had a direct hit). I didn't want to be stuck in a little sedan while flood waters would be sweeping me off for an unexpected cruise to Cuba. So far, my Liberty has driven through 3 hurricanes, 1 tropical "depression," flooded streets, muddy roads, lumps, bumps, and other hazards and has done a great job. Next year we will tackle some mountains, deserts, and sagebrush (in between dropping quarters into some one-armed bandits).
  • shivers1shivers1 Member Posts: 3
    Its a great car, was a great car. Last week one day, it wouldn't stay started. Ran great the night before. We drove it to the dealership. On the way there the oil light came on. Within 2 minutes we parked it there. They found NO OIL pressure and metal shavings all in the pan.
    Jeep is shipping in a new engine now. It is covered under warranty but as you can imagine, who wants a car that does this? The dealership we purchased the car from is pretty much washing their hands of us, since the jeep is at our local dealership getting the service. Wow, what to do. Before having to deal with our Texas Lemmon Law and just keeping a good eye on it. Has anyone ever had good experience with Chrysler replacing your whole car before you begin to grip about it to everyone. Well, just looking to see what someone might add at this point. Thanks for any responce. Chrysler is taking our whole engine back to "study" the problem. (2005 Jeep Liberty 4x2 auto, Rocky Mountain) :lemon: :sick: :cry:
  • jeepspazjeepspaz Member Posts: 21
    You know how when you use the a/c and when you stop driving and you get out of the jeep you can hear the a/c hissing as it decompresses. I noticed the other day that after using the windshield setting the same hissing noise. Does anyone know if the a/c cuts in when the the dial is turned to the windshield? Should I be concerned about this?

    Thanks
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Hi Jeepspaz - Yes, the A/C runs when you put the ventilation to Windshield mode. That's the defogger feature which uses the A/C to remove moisture from the air using the A/C condensor. This is true even when you have the temperature turned to "hot" to put warm air onto the windshield to keep it defrosted on really cold days. The A/C is running even on those cold days when the mode is in defog so it can keep moisture from freezing on the inside of the windshield. Sounds like your Liberty is doing just what it should.
  • jeepspazjeepspaz Member Posts: 21
    jimlw2... thanks for the reply.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Every car with A/C I've owned since the 70s does this. The dehumidified air clears the windshield much more quickly than if the A/C didn't kick on. Our non-A/C Wrangler is a pain when it comes to visibility in the rain.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Doesn't sound to me as if the lemon law(s) apply at all. You had a problem and it's getting fixed at Chrysler's expense. Sounds as if the lemons involved were a bad selling dealer (all too common) and a defective engine which is being made right. Why get rid of it? A brand new engine, not a bad deal to me.
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    In my '97 Cherokee manual transmission (AX-15), 5th gear was about .76 (overdrive). I just bought a '06 Jeep Liberty with a NSG370 manual, but the overdrive 6th gear is .84. To all those who are not gear heads, look at the automatic transmission gearing for the CRD, its .6. Wow, .6 is a great overdrive. Now, I am wondering what a performance chip would do, when the 3.7 liter is already screaming at 3000 RPM in 6th gear? I could supercharge the engine or possibly lean the fuel mixture, but such adjustments are basically futile.
    The Transfer Case (when not in use) has a 1:1 going to the rear differential, but I don't know of any gear reducers to lower this 1:1 to maybe .8:1.
    The whole idea is to lower the engine speed from a screaming 3000 rpm to a fuel efficient 2200 rpm while at highway speeds. You could change the rear end to a 3.08 (instead of the factory 3.53) and achieve amazing results. I would tend to invest in a differential modification instead of an engine chip. Since the NSG370 is gear so high, a 3.08 rear end would provide a marked improvement in MPG, but its only disadvantage are towing and acceleration up hills.
    Now, does anyone have $1500, because this is what its going to cost in parts, but mostly labor. I would do it, but I would be voiding the warranty. Would even the Jeep guys go for such a common sense idea?
    John
  • jamessahaljamessahal Member Posts: 55
    The Liberty (called Cherokee here in England still) 3.7.V6 Limited has 0-60 mph of around 9-10 seconds. It also has a top speed of 112 mph over here. A few days ago went to our local Jeep dealer and had a look at the vehicle. Lately we have been spending a lot of time on the motorway.
    When on the motorway over here no-one really does 70 (the limit here) or lesss We tend to do about 90 mph. It got me thinking that if the Liberty has a top speed of 112 mph, how would it handle at this speed which is near to its top speed. Would it be able to travel any faster without feeling strained and as if it were being pushed quite hard? Would it be able to do it for long or wouldyou have to slow down because if struggles? Also, i know that the Liberty 3.7 has a 4 speed transmission and i was wondering what rpm the car is doing at 70 mph? '
    When we went to Jeep we would of test drove one to find this out for ourselves but they wasn't any availible. :(
    If any one can reply to the questions i would be most greatful... :D HEHEHE!!!
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    I was looking at a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.0L manual 5 spd (only offered first two years 1993-1994) with 170,000. I would rather fix up an old car like that, than purchase a new Jeep. So, I bought an '06 Jeep liberty, but now I want to perform some elementary preventative maintenance myself. My first line of attack in any car is to adjust the timing for property efficiency. Any timing adjustments are done by loosening the distributor shaft bracket and slowly turning the whole distributor assembly until the timing strobe shows the two marks are aligned on the front of the engine block to crank shaft. Any old Chiltons or Haynes manuals explains this.
    I have my timing light ready to go, and as I am lifting the hood on my new Jeep, where's the spark plugs? I am also looking for the distributor, ready to adjust it if the timing is off. But, where's the distributor?
    My question is this: how can you install performance chips, electronics gadgets or what ever without establishing an accurate baseline adjustment? If the engine is not timed correctly, then any performance chip might aggravate the problem by making compensations elsewhere in the engine, like errors in fuel flow or errors in fuel mixture.
    When a new car comes off the assembly line, is it timed? Quality Assurance (QA) only checks a small % of cars to see if the timing is set correctly (Maybe). Was my Jeep checked?
    Tomorrow, if I ask the Jeep technician to "time" my Jeep, he'll first plug it in to the diagnostics ($180.00) He'll look for fault codes, but if none are present, then the timing is set right. My question is, has he visually checked the timing with a timing strobe light rather than listening to the stupid computer. Is the computer correct all the time? Then how does he know its done correctly?
    My 1997 Jeep Cherokee ran 132,000 miles with only a water pump failure at 81,000 before I traded it in, after the rear differential decided to eat itself. I guess a common failure with Cherokee's.
    I just might buy that old 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee and fix it up, and will probably last longer and more cost effective than this 06 Liberty I just bought.
    Now, I'm off to buy an '05 Jeep Liberty repair manual and find where the spark plugs, distributor and timing marks are so I can (DIY) and save $500.00.
    After that a ring and pinion change to the 8.25" rear and front differential from 3.53 to 3.21. After that, the ball joint and rotor FUBAR.
    John
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Does anybody make distributors anymore? I would assume the timing is computer controlled. With advance and retard settings changed based on engine load and road speed. I really don't know for sure. I'm counting on trading ours in on a new one before it needs any real maintenance. I'm thinking an 06 Renegade.
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    Before I go into the theory of axle torque, my 2006 Jeep Liberty received a new bottle of Prolong and Synthetic Pennzoil with about 100 miles on the Odo. I asked the guys at Jiffy Lube to do a quick filter test on the waste oil from the factory. I have to say that I'm glad I did (change the oil) because we found some mighty large metal fragments. Now large fragments, in a way are good, because they haven't been broken up into smaller fragments. So we cleaned it in time.
    Lexus, in one of its "adds" indicated that its axles generated 3800 ft/lbs of torque. Well the Liberty with 3.7 liter with NSG370 manual Tx with 3.53 rear end generates 3432.15 ft/lbs of torque. If you go to www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesTorqueVsHP.html, the writer goes though a very lengthy mathematical analysis of gears and ratios.
    If you look on the "spec" graph for the 3.7liter, at 2800 RPM, generates about 218 ft/lb of torque at the flywheel and 120 horsepower. Now, as part of Jeep's victory cry for the Liberty, the 3.7 liter can generate 210 horsepower at 5200 RPM. Now unless you race cars, I can't imagine myself shifting gears at 5200 rpm.
    Gears and rear end ratios are "mechanical advantage" to take 218 ft/lbs of torque at 120 horsepower and convert it over to Rear End axle Torque. In my analysis to change the 3.53 to a 3.21 shows little difference in engine or axle performance, except in savings in gas milage. At 2000 rpm, I will be going 60 mph with a 3.53 rear end, but with a 3.21 rear end, I'll be going 65 mph. The first gear's only purpose is overcoming inertia when pulling a trailer.
    I have to agree about the Distributor. But if I replace an "electrical" pick-off to read engine rpm vs. dynamic function of the crankshaft at different speeds, I have to wonder - What is the life span of this electrical pickoff? What happens if this device becomes wet? How about exposed to electrical shock? Could a faulty battery cause a short in the whole electrical network of the car to cause a complete motor malfunction? This is why I hate computer controlled vehicles. Most electronics today are disposable if a problem occurs, but what about a car? What am I supposed to do if a technician just throws up his hands and says, its broken and I can't fix it. There has to be a level of liability vs technical ability the Jeep people have to incorporate into their products, or else we are just buying garbage.
    So all the problems occuring out there are all "chip" related. So every wire has to be metered, all associated chips need to be changed, the motherboard needs inspection or replacing, the main computer module needs replacing. The battery needs inspection to ensure no internal short. This means alot of work for the technician. Do you think he's able to complete such a huge task? I'll let everyone out there put their service departments to the test to see if they are up to the challenge to fix their own cars.
    As for me, I'll fix my own, thank you very much.
    John
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    I've not driven one, yet, but am curious about the performance of the Liberty with the 3.7 V6. When I had the cruise control set on our '03 Grand Cherokee (with the 4.0 I6) it wanted to down-shift (sometimes quite forcefully) if I even said the words "grade" or "slope". Driving in anything remotely resembling "hilly" country was a pain in the rear. Does the 3.7 V6 do any better?
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    Yes, the 3.7 liter has more power, the 4.0 liter had more torque.
    My 1997 Jeep Cherokee 5 spd was not fond of hills either. Downshifting was almost a way of life going across the "hills" between Virginia and West Virginia.
    An automatic 3.7 liter would leave my Cherokee in the dust any day when going up a hill, or anywhere for that matter. The weight difference between the Grand Cherokee and Liberty depends on what options you have, (in particular, how many skid plates.) The Liberty is light enough to allow the 3.7 to increase its thrust to weight ratio, but I am sure the Jeep Commander 3.7 liter is a bit overburdened.
    So far, I am very pleased and is very fun to drive. I looked at the CRD, but due to diesel prices and random unpredictible nature of the 2.8 liter engine, I was glad I purchased the gasoline 3.7 liter.
    Give it a good workout and see what you think.
    John
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Thanks, John. In hindsight, I wish that I had taken a more serious look at the 3.7 instead of being so quick to opt for the CRD. The diesel is fun to drive - performance-wise - but I'm not at all pleased with the MPG and the price of fuel. At this point my plan is to "tough it out" for 18 months to 2 years and then go with the new Dodge Nitro (or whatever it's going to be called) with the 3.7.
  • radarmanradarman Member Posts: 1
    Does anybody know the purpose of the little plastic piece in front of the air intake? Its mounted in front of the inlet (prior to the filter box) and looks like it contacts the rubber seal on the underside of the hood. Any information on its purpose is appreciated.
  • st34st34 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 sport 4x4 3.7 6spd man, 8.25 chrysler rear axle with 3.55/1 gearing and am happy to say I cruise 70mph at 2600rpm. The automatics that you are referring to do have a lower overdrive ratio but they also have a higher rear axle ratio 3.73/1 limited and 4.10/1 on the renegade. I too had issues of concern before buying mine. It seems that you have to give up on the limited slip differential and or the upgraded "select Trac" transfer case that offers full-time four-wheel drive if you want the manual transmission. I assume this is do to a warranty concern on the manual clutch, which is the only part of my drivetrain that isn't warranted under the 7/70 protection plan but instead only covered for 10,000 miles. I plan on eventually having my cake and eating it too after my warranty expires. I have already priced a detroit true trac lsd and installation at a local ring and pinion shop (around $600.00), and plan on harvesting an NV242 out of a limited from a bone yard and giving the old girl a sex change. Then I believe I will have the best of both worlds.
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    I went back and looked at the automatic and sure enough, the 3.53 wasn't an option. Around town, I am getting about 18-19 mpg and keeping the RPM under 2200 when I shift gears. I have noticed a "tip over" RPM where horsepower and rear end torque meet, which is about 1900-2100 RPM. If I put a 3.21 ring and pinion in both differentials, then that tip over might move to 2200-2500 RPM which would allow me to use the lower gears more often. Now, is this a good thing or bad thing?
    I think I'll keep the 3.53 gearing. Now the performance chip, if you read its claims, it only reconfigures engine performance when under loads or higher RPM. Under normal circumstances, it doesn't alter normal chip operation. For my situation, I would not have much use for it.
    The Prolong and synthetic oil has brought my idle RPM to a smooth 500. I can really tell the difference between regular oil and synthetic.
    I wish more people would change to a manual tx. People would be surprised at all the additional computer programming when configured with an automatic transmission. There are additional linkage problems, water in the automatic transmission fluid like the 2002 Jeep Liberty and the additional problems like bucking, RPM racing and gears which don't seem to change at the correct RPM. But, if you still want an automatic transmission . . . . . Don't say that I didn't warn you.
    John
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    If you feel 22.7 in a recreational area is not good, especially when you consider the Liberty CRD weighs almost 4,300 lbs, in my book thats's pretty darn good. Diesel here is now 2.49 and gas is 2.10. So I will bet my 22.7 mpg is cheaper to drive than your gas 3.7 and its 16 to 17.7 mpg. Reconsider join the CRD and improve the environment, and increase your money spent per mile of fuel.

    Farout.
  • scheckscheck Member Posts: 8
    I began hearing the same kind of rattle when the weather got hot (bought my '03 in Jan.). It stopped when I took a bungee cord and hooked it to the bar where the right rear latches and one of the tie down hooks on the floor. Haven't heard that noise since then.
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    I'm glad that the American public is on this "mpg" trend and not getting the largest vehicle out there.
    Manual transmissions mated to diesel engines are only offered in larger trucks. Why is that? In performance cars with diesels, only automatics are offered. I like a performance vehicle with an manual 5 or 6 spd. If I attached such a manual to a diesel, I would blow the engine. Why? The diesel engine red lines at 2500-3000 RPM. The computer constantly monitors transmission to engine RPM for maximum performance while not causing the engine to eat itself. Any fatal flaws in computer programming, temperature, moisture, wiring problems, sensor or proble malfunctions will cause the whole programming to seriously degrade or crash. Yes, you might get better gas milage because the diesel engine is constructed differently. I would also like someone to bring back the old rotary engine. I like performance with a manual transmission.
    The Jeep Liberty CRD seems plagued with problems, far too many problems to warrant such a purchase. Once Jeep can guarantee absolute quality, maintenance and reliability analysis on their CRD's, I'll enjoy reading those CRD complaints and glad I purchased a 3.7.
    John
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    Ohio's biofuels initiative 144 has only 2 gas stations with E85 (ethanol). You probably noticed that corn oil or vegetable oil has gone up in price at the supermarket. I have to ask why all the biofuel attention, when in fact all our agricultural produce is going overseas, like to China.
    So, has any American politian noticed that we are the corn "cartel"? Demand to your congressmen and senators that no more corn goes overseas till we honor our biofuel supplies to ease the gas shortage. Ohio's biofuel legislation has only produced a "token" gesture, so where has all our tax dollars gone with only 2 E85 gas stations are open?
    Jeep is all American and so should our biofuels!
    Keep our corn here in the USA!
    John
  • af_stingaf_sting Member Posts: 1
    I went to the jeep site and built a Liberty Renegade and noted that a limited slip differential (LSD) was not an option. I did a search on the Jeep site and nowhere did it talk about a LSD on a Liberty (it had it available for Wrangler/Commander/Grand Cherokee). Did they do away with it? Any info is appreciated.

    -Sting
  • brdhntr1brdhntr1 Member Posts: 19
    My daughter has a 2002 V-6 Liberty with an auto transmission. She is telling me that the only place that offers air filter replacements and battery replacements is the dealer. Based upon her experience there is no after market supplier of these items. Is this true, what is your experience?
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Somebody's blowing serious smoke up somebody's skirt. Stop by Advance Auto Parts (among others). They've been carrying after-market filters and batteries for years. The one thing which you won't find offered by anyone except DCX is ATF+4 transmission fluid. That is proprietary.
  • kburkekburke Member Posts: 2
    I have recently changed my handbrake shoes; I have adjusted the shoes tight with the shoe adjuster and then backed-off 4 or 5 turns on each adjuster but the when I apply the handbrake it will not hold the vehicle.I have removed the centre consul to view the handbrake lever setup but I don't see any way to adjust the handbrake cable??
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • rock1rock1 Member Posts: 12
    I also have a 2003 Liberty and when I asked the dealer to tighten the parking brake, he brought out the mechanic's liberty manuel, and it states the parking brake is not adjustable. You must replace the cable.
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Member Posts: 131
    There was some discussion about this technology transition in the CRD forum. It tweaked my interest enough to go back and look at the Jeep literature (DCX publications).

    Unless an actual jeep mechanic corrects me, I am under the impression that jeep has rolled (no pun intended :blush: ) their traction control package and anti-roll into an all-inclusive brake-computer-wheel slip sensor package. While not THE same system, the bragging of the new 4WD system on the Commander is a place to go for the overall theory of how the system works...especially when it comes to understanding what happens at the axles (not the transfer case)

    As I understand it, the computer/sensors, notices abnormal wheelspeed (slip) and applies THAT break which then sends the power to the other wheel on the axle. I think/assume the same system controls the rollover protection. While Liberty owners may choose from Full to Parttime 4WD on the transfer case, the Commander with the new 4wd system can go one step further and vary the amount of torque sent to either end of the vehicle at the transfer case.

    I would bet a tank full of diesel that this was done to prevent a computer and mechanical (roll-over and traction control) system from working against one another. With the computer controlling all of it, this is no longer an issue. While I have an '05 with Trac Loc, I would not consider it a downgrade (as some have) to go from an anti-slip to an anti-slip, anti-tip system. To me, it seems that DCX has put in a lot of time and effort to provide additional safety without sacrificing performance. My next CRD (10 years and 250k later ;) ) will have that technology plus other technology upgrades as well.

    There is one testimonial on the CRD forum on how well this new system worked. See post 2439 of the Jeep Liberty Diesel forum for this testimonial.
  • indianrefiningindianrefining Member Posts: 102
    Let me ask what may (or may not) be a stupid question. What is the difference between 4 Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive (and I hope some smart aleck isn't going to say that it depends on how many wheels you have!)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the 4WD & AWD systems explained discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • snojeepsnojeep Member Posts: 2
    I have a late year 2003 Liberty. The other day while riding home from work I head a high pitched violin sound fading in and out in the front. Thougt it was wind noise. The next day while riding on the county highway the "Part-Time" light came on. The problem with that was that I did not have the Liberty engage in 4WD High. Then when I took a turn it felt as if the Liberty was really in 4WD high (binding). I slowed down, let the jeep roll, pull up on the lever as if to put the thing in 4WD High, and the "Part Time" light went off. Ok...let me get this straight. Lever down, 4WD High engaged... pull lever up as if to really engate 4WD High and indicator light goes off. I moved the lever down, hopefully disengaged 4WD high, pulled off to the side and shut the car off. Thought I had a confused idiot light in the dash. But alas, when I turned the jeep back on, went into drive and started back on the road the idiot light came back on, indicating that the Liberty was in 4WD high. Then, the light would blink on and off and not go on at all when 4WD High was supposedly engaged. I just went home, parked in the garage and looked at my 7/70,000 warranty. I have just over 65,000 miles, so if this is some transfer case problem, it should, it better, be under warranty. I don't go off-road, just use the 4WD High for lousy snow/ice road conditions. No abuse here. Any clues on this one? :confuse: Thanks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I once drove a GM car that had the anti spin feature. This does very well for people who are afraid of icy roads and traction is really optimised. There is no issue here.
    Comparing to my Liberty that has 'only' the Selec-Trac and ABS, when I decide to turn on an icy road I can feel it sliding and adapt my speed accordingly. What I fear is excessive confidence one gives to this type of system can significantly reduce the natural reflex of choosing an 'acceptable' trajectory in case of danger. We all tend to pay less attention when nothing ever happens and the driver becomes a passenger when the computer takes over...
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    John: The Wankel engine you refer to was first produced by NSU a german company. they stayed in business until 1968 and was bought out. The rights to the Wankel engine now belong to Masda, and they have a sports car that has the rotary engine you would enjoy.

    There were 8,333 CRD Liberty's made in 2005. What you have read in the Diesel Liberty forum are a very very small percentage of CRD owners. Having has both a 2005 Limited 3.7 and the 2005 sport CRD, I can speak from genuine experience. My CRD is every bit as reliable as the 3,7. The CRD rides much smoother, and is not as jittery on the curves and stright a ways. Quality is equal, and this enging has been in use in europe for more than 11 years with a 2.5 version. I would expect when your 3.7 is just plain worn out at about 150,000 miles my CRD will be going strong for maybe 250,000 miles. (it darn well better!) Good luck, John!

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: I think you have a excellent point! I do not yet trust the computers to control braking and several other areas of saftey when they use one safety device to control more than one area. I know Jetliners have had more complecated systems for decades that eventually went to the automotive industry. I still [non-permissible content removed] my CRD with the Trac-Loc Dif. ABS and Selc-Trac. For me this is all I want for now!

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I can add that jetliners have redundant (n+1 or n+2) circuits powered by several UPS systems and our vehicles only use one. The positive thing about our wiring harness is the silicone sealing of all the wires into the connectors of the engine and transmission controllers. If you inspect your ABS connectors and cables I think you will discover the potential risk of relying on these thin and loose cables that easely get in the way of the suspensions. I had to reposition mine during 2nd service because they were starting to wear near their exiting position from the engine compartment. The isolation was rubbing against the inside wheel protection, and pinching occured near the suspension rubber block.
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    I had a trusty Dodge Ram 4x4, 318 5 spd in 1986 which brought me some great enjoyment along the Outer Banks of North Carolina. During one summer, I had to replace the two back tires from the friction, heat and wear generated from driving in the wet and dry sand. I can't imagine any how any newer model sensors or measuring equipment could survive in such conditions. Never mind the saltwater getting into sensative wiring or the sensors themselves. Which brings me to salt and sand on the highways during the winter.
    Yes I would rather have the mechanical limited slip differential like I had in my Dodge Ram and my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. Putting too much reliance in computer equipment is just asking for trouble, no matter how good you are in bad weather. Once the system fails, you're pretty much done.
    I would take a part-time 4 wheel drive system over a full time all wheel drive configuration.
    As far as the CRD Liberty's, if Jeep's quality assurance was on the ball, none of the diesels would be experiencing problems such as they are. What doesn't makes sense, the old WWII jeeps lasted almost forever. The older jeeps are still around, yet are constructed with only mechanical parts with little computer assistance. It's almost as if the Jeep's engineers took an idiot pill to fabricate a "weak link" in its jeep line, that of the computer and all the associated sensors.
    It's not the type of engine, or the type of differential, what is at stake here is the level of competence in design, construction and assembly. This is where the Japanese, South Koreans and Germans are wiping us (Americans) all over the mat. GM is finished as far as I'm concerned, Toyota is about to hammer in the last nail in GM's coffin.
    Jeep is a spirit, that of adventure, reliability and to overcome any obstacle. This notion of pioneerism is about to fall to the wayside.
    On this Thanksgiving, I want to be eating turkey in 20 years, not Ramen noodles, squid and kelp. So Jeep, take warning, will you be in existance in 20 years? Stop taking those idiot pills, and hire a mechanical engineer instead of an electrical engineer.
    John
  • uv4meuv4me Member Posts: 22
    I have a 2004 Liberty in which I would like to mount an XM stereo. Has anyone out there mounted a Roadie XT in their Liberty and where did you place the mount? Thanks
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    john: As far as the CRD engine goes this is a well proven engine used ny many companies and perhaps more than a dozen cars, vans, trucks, etc. In fact Dc on Oct. of this year just received it's 500,000 engine from VM Motori SpA. They have been making diesel engines back as far as 1947.

    When you factor in only 8,333 CRD's were made for US use and that the level 2 bin 10 was reached this is a significant achievement. The CRD has a dealer lot life of 23 days. That is very excellent compared to regular Liberties.

    The Transmission is also used with the Dodge "HEMI" in all the places a "HEMI" is put in. Does that not say something a little more assuring? Can you say "HEMI"? I consider the "HEMI" the most hedonistic proof of manhood anyone has ever come up with. How much more wasteful can anyone become?

    Farout
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    If you do a google search on recalls for the Jeep Liberty front brakes, you find that the engineers installed a heat shield between the rotor and the yoke assembly which holds the ball joints. Need to see if a similar heat shield was fabricated for the rear rotors.
    I still can't believe I'm still talking about the CRD's. I have to stress that its not the engine or the type of transmission, its the quality put into the product which translates to market share. Right now, Jeep does not have market share. I have to ask why? If you look in Edmunds used cars, you find 72 CRD's (2005) for sale. Wow, 72 people who represent a very powerful force against Jeep's effort to portray reliability and durability.
    Jeep's rise and fall will not depend on the CRD. Why was the Gladiator project cancelled? Was it because it had a CRD or did we absolutely need another pick-up truck. Toyota is blowing everyone out of the water with every type of pick-up and suv imaginable.
    So, Jeep needs market share. I would say if Jeep would buy back those 72 CRD's, you now have 72 potential buyers who might stay with Jeep. I would have purchased a Commander if it had a manual transmission, but No, it had to stay with an automatic.
    The design of the CRD Liberty might be improved by starting talks with Cummins and incorporate the 4B (3.7L) diesel (which would be rather big, considering, but an engine around the 3.0 liter size) because Cummins represents more of an American image. Market share is about Americans buying American.
    The NSG370 manual transmission was designed too high (in gearing). The final 6th gear is .84, but should have been .78(.) But look at all the other SUV's out there, only the Jeep Liberty has the performance with a manual transmission - That's market share.
    Jeep Liberty CRD, the only vehicle out there with a diesel engine - That's market share. This is a good thing, I am trying to tell you. But, if Jeep doesn't come to grips over these 72 people, you can just kiss those 72 people away and all chance of getting back your original market share. The CRD is rapidly becoming a "cult", and in their haste to make production quota, messed up royally. Tell that to those 72 people.
    And do you think Toyota will make a diesel here in the US(because they do in Europe)? After what happening to Jeep, not a chance. Just watch. Toyota will stay away from the diesel concept like a hot potato. Especially when the new diesel environmental regulations go into effect for ultra low particulate and sulfur emissions in 2006.
    Its all about market share.
    John
  • najeepnajeep Member Posts: 3
    Just got my 06 Liberty..it's awesome..but it doesn't have the Trac-Loc Limited Slip Rear Differential. It was replaced by ESP (Electronic Stability Program) and All Speed Traction Control. Does anyone know how these new features work ? Do they work as well as the LSD? or should and can i get a LSD installed on the O6 Libby? Any insight would be appreciated. thanks !
  • bronxguybronxguy Member Posts: 1
    i just bouught this it came with the instuctions in spanish it looks like it bolts to where the tow hooks bolt on but all i see is three holes in the sheet metal in front of the radiator support is this where the tow hooks go i cant see them just bolting to sheet metal anybody have any suggestions thanks im not stupid im really a car nut i have been working on cars over 35 years this just dont look right
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    I was looking on the Mopar web site, a similar bull bar, black molded tubing which attaches to the under carriage where the tow hooks go. I took a quick glance to inspect what was there and I thought it was straight forward. Now, I wonder if Mopar's (out sourcing) of Jeep parts are now going to Mexico? That would explain the Spanish.
    I can't imagine if attaching the bull bar to unsupported sheet metal/grill fiberglass might do if you actually hit a deer or ran into a tree.
    I would be curious where you bought it from, and I'll be sure not to use that particular vendor.
    John
  • mhaddenmhadden Member Posts: 1
    SNOJEEP - Did U ever figure out what caused this? I'm having the same problem...
  • crd4me2crd4me2 Member Posts: 26
    Hi all,
    I'm a new member, but have been reading the forum for a few months now. I ordered a 2006 limited CRD Oct. 5th with a delivery date of 6-10 weeks. Well 10 weeks have gone by now and I'm told the Jeep is still "scheduled for build" :cry: . I'm also told the plant closes for a couple weeks in Dec. and so there is no one there to answer as to why the build hasn't started yet. I've searched the net but haven't seen anything about delays in builds. Has anyone here heard of anything that would delay this out to what now appears to be 15 weeks?
    Thanks for any clues...
    Michelle in New Mexico (crd4me2)
  • geenafeenageenafeena Member Posts: 1
    i am on the search for new tires for my 02 liberty limited and as usual, am getting many different recommendations from different places such as BR goodrich long trail, michelin cross terrain, uniroyal cross country, contintntal conti trac., summit trail climber SLT. i want a smooth cra like ride, i don't go off roading. any suggestions or assisstance. VERY CONFUSED. thanks!
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Buy the cheapest set you can find. If they're noisy, turn up the radio. If it's wet or slick , keep it in full/time 4 wheel drive.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    ummmmm, no. Do not buy the cheapest set you can find. 4wd will not help you stop or steer in slick conditions, only moving forward. Traction has to be considered unless you live in the south.
    If you deal with ice at all, you will want to buy something with the snowflake "severe winter" symbol. Otherwise, quiet ride is what you're looking for. Check consumer reports for this. Many SUV tires sacrifice some ride for increased load capacity (like the Long Trail BFG).
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    My 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7 liter 6 spd, engine has been treated with Prolong and Pennzoil 5-30 Synthetic, now with 1035 miles. Checked gas milage - went 114.9 miles and filled up with 4.3 gallons. Wow! 26.7 miles per gallon, with steady 2100 rpm between 63 and 65 mph. I would rather be paying 2.04 here in Ohio rather than $2.79 for diesel.
    Iridium spark plugs, vendors are Champion and that Japanese brand (MSG - whatever, I won't be buying these)
    I do not know what "stock" spark plugs are used in the Liberty, whether Platinum or Copper. To save on costs, they are probably copper. The costs of changing spark plugs every 10,000 miles or only buy one set of Iridium and forget it.
    The Dodge Nitro will only offer an automatic transmission. I'll bet, since its being built in Toledo, will have the same problems as the Liberty. Like rear brakes FUBAR and Parking brake AFU. Not to mention a whole assortment of computer problems and ball joint problems like the Durango. Never buy a car when its first introduced.
    What's up with Liberty CRD? They stopped production?! What's up with 75,000 Liberty's sitting at the docks in Toledo? Is there any wonder why Americans are not buying American. Do you think management cares about the little guy who buys these cars, but realizes they are junk? Management doesn't care. Jeep better straighten up and get back to basics, because their future looks dim.
    I care about Jeep. It's just they don't care about me.
    What's wrong with this picture?
    John
  • john81john81 Member Posts: 60
    147 mile trip with 5.29 gallons of gas, this calculates to 27.788 miles per gallon. Set my speed control to 65 miles per hour (2200 RPM) and watched angry motorists fly by me on the highway.
    With manual transmissions, you eliminate all associated computer programming which "would" have been applied to the automatic transmission. You eliminate all problems with the torque converter. I can't pull 5,000 lbs, but I wouldn't use the Liberty to pull 5000 lbs anyway, primarily based of its (Liberty's) light weight.
    The Liberty is the only small (American) SUV that offers a manual transmission, a strong 3.7 liter engine, great 4x4 ability and a towing package.
    Manual transmissions do not exhibit braking problems associated with automatic transmissions. Hot rotors from constant braking, premature failure in U-joints, ball joints, steering knucles and grease fittings.
    Steering control under slippery conditions is an acquired art. Manual transmissions put you in control during those difficult situations, but the key is, you are in control. Downshifting, light braking and proper steering wheel alignment when sliding encourages more driver input and anticipation.
    So, get out there and work those sticks.
    John
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    We went by a few dealerships to check out inventory last Sunday. I didn't see a single manual transmission Liberty. The only sticks anyone had in stock were in Wranglers.
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