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I know that the 3.7L was initially a major mistake and at one point, DC/JEEP had replaced more of them in a short period of time than they sold Liberty's. The beauty of our 4.0L is that it is virtually indestructible!
Chuck
Chrysler Group & Apple Announce iPod Integration
Over Three Million Chrysler, Jeep & Dodge Automobiles to Support iPod Connectivity in 2006
NORTH AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL AUTO SHOW, DETROIT—January 8, 2006—The Chrysler Group today announced that it will be the first American automaker to provide full iPod integration as an option in most of its 2006 models, with over three million 2006 Chrysler, Jeep® and Dodge models offering seamless iPod® integration beginning this spring. Drivers will be able to listen to their iPod through the car’s audio system, select their music by artist, album or playlist with radio or steering wheel controls and view selections on the radio’s display.
“Customers have been asking for iPod connectivity and we’re excited to make it available to so many of our vehicles in 2006,” said Randy Ewers, director, Mopar Accessories Portfolio Team. “We’re providing the largest number and range of automobiles with iPod support of any automaker, allowing Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge owners to bring and listen to their entire music collections.”
“We’re thrilled that over three million Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge automobiles will offer great iPod connectivity in 2006,” said Greg Joswiak, Apple’s vice president of Worldwide iPod Product Marketing. “Over 40 percent of all cars sold in the US in 2006 will offer iPod connectivity.”
Looking at the photos of the engine bay, I wonder where an on-board air solution would fit. A second battery setup might be interesting to work, but I'm sure folks like Brad Kilby will figure something out.
-Paul
-Paul
...There's my $.02 for her name. :P
LOL! Yeah, that's actually pretty good; plus, that's a GREAT cruisin' tune!
I may actually consider that...
Thanks
Ryan
Here's a pic of where I have it installed :Roady 2
"Every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are
labeled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up
black to let you know you've done it." (-The Restaurant at the End of the Universe)
Thanks for the pic
I would like to thank everyone who responded to my 4WD problem with your advice and recomendations.
As you may recall I found out my front gears were replaced with the original ratio and I couldn't get my Jeep to go forward or reverse more than 12 - 18 inches.
Luckily I had a warrenty and the guy replaced the front gears at no cost. I did try it out in 4WD just to make sure it all worked and things are going great. I have a little breaking in to do but that shouldn't be any problem.
Thanks again.
Tim
Glad things got straightened out.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The power doors locks take a little more work. After some research, I purchased a universal fit, 4-door kit from JC Whitney with a Bulldog remote kit. I did not take any pictures of my installation, but I think you can google for some on the web. Basically, you just have to install the actuators where they can push and pull the door lock mechanism. The rear door was the hardest because of the limited amount of space to work, but I got them in. These have been trouble free for the entire time also. I did not install the buttons for the door locks, because the actuators are designed so that if you lock/unlock the doors with the factory locks, the kit triggers the other actuators to do the same to the remaining doors.
The power window kit is designed to unplug so you can remove the doors, and I simply added some plugs to the door lock kit to do the same thing.
My Jeep is a DD, so I frequently have valuable items in the rear, and it is nice knowing I can lock all doors with a simple push of the remote button.
Email if you have any other questions - be glad to help you.
-Paul
Right, Ryan?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Steve
And remember, let's be careful out there!
I myself have a Jeeperman bumper with integrated winch mount, shackle mounts instead of tow hooks, and integrated fog light mounts. It also has a light bar to protect the winch better and provide room for additional lighting.
Here t'is. They make a shorty version too.
I know that is not what you wanted, but if you already have the Jeep, aftermarket may be a better way to go. If you're getting a new Jeep, rolling that bumper into your payments makes sense.
I just wish I could SEE one of those bumpers, let alone get an idea of how good they are.
-Paul
I drive a lot, so conveniences are nice (and I've gotten used to them on my other vehicles).
I'll let you know if I have additional questions.
Thanks.
Art...
Since I live literally 10 minutes from the North American Auto show at Cobo in Detroit, I'm seriously contemplating going this weekend (maybe even tomorrow) just to check out the Jeep display. I wouldn't consider myself a 'car nut' but rather a 'jeep nut', so I wouldn't be there long. If I go, I'll DEFINITELY take some pics (anyone see the new Compass, to come out this year? Personally, I'm not a fan) of what they have to offer, and post them, likely with some difficulty!
I'll also try and get some specifics on the exact makeup of the new TJ, er, Wrangler.
BTW, my AR rime DO have the red and blue stripes. I imagine the elimination of the blue would look good, though I'm not gonna bother.
Serioulsy considering the name Black Betty, as (tongue in cheek?) advised.
Ryan
Bam-a-lam...
LOL! There are people around here who wait that long for tickets or some shows, I think. The only time I'd consider "camping out" is the New Year's Eve overnight on Colorado Blvd to see the Rose Parade.
I think we would probably put less than 2,000 miles a year on the jeep (we live in a small town and would likely drive my Sequoia or wife's highlander when going out of town).
I've seen a couple of 98/99 SEs with < 50k miles that look clean and are advertized (FSBO) as never off road. How reliable is such a car likely to be? Would I be facing broken water pumps, electical problems etc, every six months?
I'm a little concerned about putting too much money into a jeep that my 16 year old will drive b/c (1) 16 year olds shouldn't dive nice cars, and (2) when I was young, I had a few fender benders. Right now I'm thinking the SE and then in a few years when my youngest enters high school and I'm done coaching a soccer team, I can get rid of the Sequoia and, if I like the SE, buy myself a new jeep.
Any thoughts? Thanks
I think you're on the right track when you say you are considering an SE. This Jeep will be driven mainly by your daughter, right? Probably, an SE would be a good choice.
Jeeps are at least average in reliability, and I think they could be considered above average. A well maintained SE with 50K miles on it shouldn't need anything more than normal maintenance for another 100K miles.
I don't know if the four bangers had any manifold issues, but the 4.0 L engines had a design flaw in the exhaust manifold in the early TJ years (97 and 98) which made them crack.
You are getting a vehicle that is radically different from anything you have ever had, so it would be wise to keep the investment to a minimum. Jeeps hold their value very well, so you could keep the SE long enough to see if a Jeep is the right vehicle for your purposes, and then move up to a newer one without taking much loss on trade-in.
Good luck.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Welcome to the world of a teenage driver in the family. It's great and it sucks at the same time!
I had the same line of thought you did. I got my daughter a 97 TJ SE a few years ago AFTER she turned 16. We made her take a defensive driving class at Willow Springs, and I think it taught her to be more aggressive. When she would drive the Wrangler, she would take turns too fast and a couple of times, nearly rolled it. While a Wrangler is VERY easy to do DIY stuff to, I didn't want to risk her flipping it. She ended up getting a Honda Civic (less likely to roll over, but still a tin can) for college and I haven't worried nearly as much. She knows if she hits anything or gets hit, she's in that tin can, so it settled her down a bit. Now if I could just get her to not want to do the wheels, exhaust, lowering, turbo, etc, it'd be great (yeah she's been around me and cars too much).
Regarding the ease of repair, if she was driving the Wrangler, a LOT of the work, including body work can be done simply by covering it up with body armor and/or flat fenders and such. This also makes it more trail ready (who'd a thunk it?). The rockers I have also protect it from shopping carts and car doors (yeah, go ahead and hit my 1/4" thick steel sides with your aluminum doors).
The only mechanical issues I have had that were not self induced are:
1. Exhaust manifold cracked (as mentioned by Tom). I think they fixed this on 99 or 2000 and later TJ's.
2. Catalytic converter broke. Replaced by dealer.
3. Radiator leak (VERY common on ALL TJ's). Replaced with aftermarket radiator and did the work myself. Replaced thermostat at the same time.
4. Slight pinion seal leak from front differential. Will fix when I regear.
That has been IT. Our 2000 Grand Cherokee only had issues with the pinion seals, and after several visits to the dealer, they finally fixed it.
Now that my daughter is in her Civic, the Jeep is mine, all mine! I've had a blast driving it, even with only 4 cylinders firing. I keep up with Tom and the group at Turkey Bay, but I have to understand my engine's limits and deal with my lower clearance (I'm on 30" tires still - Tom is on 31's and has lockers).
When looking for a used Jeep, be sure to check the undercarriage for visible signs of offroading - scratches on the frame and transfer case skid, anything bent (or missing), check for rust spots on the frame and bottom of the tub.
If you get an SE, I'd stay away from the automatics. The manual does a pretty good job of keeping the 4 cylinders up in the torque band, instead of letting the computer tell you when.
If you have any questions, just ask away! Welcome to the site!
-Paul
You'll love the Jeep so go with what you can afford. But I would never, never let a 16 year old drive an SUV. Paul is right, the daughter needs a Civic or something similar. If you do a search of previous posts you'll find a great article from USA Today regarding teenage drivers and SUVs. I have two 16 year old nieces who have rolled SUVs and were lucky to walk away. One rolled a 4 Runner and the other an Explorer.
I believe this is your first post, so welcome to the board. Your proifle says you are Army and are deployed. Thanks, Rich, for serving our country. Be careful over there and come home safe. Are you by any chance part of the 101st? I Jeep with some of those boys at Turkey Bay. Ft. Campbell is not too far from there. You are welcome to join us anytime.
Are you going to "wheel" your Jeep? If so, you will need more room for axle travel to keep the tires from rubbing the flares. If you are not going to do any offroading with the sway bar disco'd, then I believe you could get by with an OME 2" lift, which gives most people almost 3" of lift with the HD version. If you are going to "wheel" and disconnect the sway bar, then I think you will need a 1" body lift as well, or go with a four inch suspension lift.
I will try to find you a link to that website that shows Jeeps with various lifts and tires. There is such a place.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
here is a link to an interesting page, not sure if its just photochopped or how its done, but you can click the various buttons and get an idea of what a jeep looks like with various size lifts and tires.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I've never disconnected the sway bar, and am well aware of the benefits of doing this. I want to try now, but how do I get it off? I know I need a t55 torx and the wrench, but do I unhook both sides, just one side? I have the tools, so the only problem should be the 9 years of (likely) never been disconnected. Should I expect a tough time?
Also, because I have 31's, I'm aware of the potential of fender rubbing; is this bad or severe? Could it damage anything severely? Is it stupid to disco with 31's and no lift? Anyone do this?
As you can see, I have a few questions that need answering before I take Black Betty (yep! ) to the trails.
As always, thanks, and I look forward to some great responses!
Ryan
Disconnecting and reconnecting will be much easier if you do it on a clean flat and level surface.
Unless you're conducting some kind of banzai high speed maneuver you shouldn't damage anything, though you'll probably rub a tire on the inside of one of your fender flares now and again.
Check these pictures out.
You can check out my website for a little more info.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay49/id17.html
Go get 'em!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?">link title
Second method, not as safe but requires no use of the credit card. Jack and support the rear as before. Then use the floor jack to raise just one front wheel an inch off the ground. You can now switch that wheel with the appropriate rear one BEING CAREFUL NOT TO GET UNDER THE FRONT OF THE JEEP AT ANY TIME. In reality, the likelihood of the front coming off the jack, or the jack suddenly failing, is very small. However, vehicle damage is always preferable to personal injury.
Finally, unless you're using an impact wrench, slacken the lug nuts before you raise the wheels from the ground. Make sure to tighten them in the correct sequence, and use a torque wrench to finish off when they're back on the ground again.
To understand the reasoning for the lifting sequence, it helps to know that the diff housing is central on the rear axle, while it's considerably offset on the front. This makes for a balanced lift and support at the rear. However, at the front it's hard to even get an axle stand between the diff housing and hub on one end.
However, don't expect little things like dash lights, door mechanisms, rattles, etc. to match a Japanese vehicle like your Sequoia. It's still a Jeep, after all.
Oh, one more thing, I believe Jeep changed the four cylinder in 04 (may have been 03?). I've heard it's a much better motor than the older one. Anyone know about that?
The four cylinder changed from a 2.5 to a 2.4. Totally different engine, modern design, slightly better fuel consumption.
Just a warnign; everyone be careful...you can never trust those jacks by themselves.
Ryan
Do not be tempted to use the high-lift under the front bumper. Think of the high-lift as an instrument of last resort, and even then think two or three more times! The high-lift does have its place, but routine tire rotation is not one of them.
As many of you know, I have a '95 YJ with the 2.5L OHV 4-cylinder motor. 94,000 miles and no problems. I would consider getting a used YJ or TJ with this motor as long as the vehicle is properly maintained. The 2.4L ('04+ TJ) is a DOHC 16 valve motor that is not at all like the 2.5L (I do have the 2.4L in a Chrysler Yoyager minivan where it has given me no problems in 50,000+ miles - it doesn't sound like a jeep, though.)
The 3.8L OHV V-6 is the minivan motor. I had a 3.3L variant in a 1995 Plymouth Voyager that was still running with 130,000+ miles when I sold it last year, and I now have a 3.8L in a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country - no significant problems with either motor.
Finally, ......"my blinkers don't always work and my flashers come on"....... what's the difference between the blinkers and the flashers?
I'd suggest you gather catalogs from the many Jeep aftermarket suppliers. As well as carrying most of the available books, they also carry more suspension and body lifts, spares and accessories, than you can shake a stick at. They will also enable you to establish a budget for the project, which is the first thing you should do in your initial planning.
As for a diesel engine, there's nothing that drops straight in. However, given sufficient time, money, and resources, nothing is impossible. As as interesting project it might be fun to do, but don't expect it to make sense as an economic exercise.
2007 Jeep Wrangler
I like it! And, get this... HEADRESTS on the REAR seats!! I may get an 07 just so I'm not so nervous with my 10 yo daughter in the back seat.
The website is still quite vague. For instance, why no pictures of the four door model? Also, does it even come with a soft top option?? All of the pics are of the Jeep with the new modular hardtop.
Oh well. I'm sure there will be lots more details revealed about it in the coming months..
My drivers side zipper and rear window zipper are toast. I think I am getting new zippers put in for $85 (upper door) and $120 (rear window).