Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler

1402403405407408455

Comments

  • ocean_shipperocean_shipper Member Posts: 70
    Mac - Is this 3.8L engine a new one, or one that has been a resurrection from a previous life?

    I know that the 3.7L was initially a major mistake and at one point, DC/JEEP had replaced more of them in a short period of time than they sold Liberty's. The beauty of our 4.0L is that it is virtually indestructible!

    Chuck
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    Wow. First time back since the holidays. Over 200 messages to catch up on. In the meantime, apologies if this has already been posted. -Mike

    Chrysler Group & Apple Announce iPod Integration
    Over Three Million Chrysler, Jeep & Dodge Automobiles to Support iPod Connectivity in 2006

    NORTH AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL AUTO SHOW, DETROIT—January 8, 2006—The Chrysler Group today announced that it will be the first American automaker to provide full iPod integration as an option in most of its 2006 models, with over three million 2006 Chrysler, Jeep® and Dodge models offering seamless iPod® integration beginning this spring. Drivers will be able to listen to their iPod through the car’s audio system, select their music by artist, album or playlist with radio or steering wheel controls and view selections on the radio’s display.

    “Customers have been asking for iPod connectivity and we’re excited to make it available to so many of our vehicles in 2006,” said Randy Ewers, director, Mopar Accessories Portfolio Team. “We’re providing the largest number and range of automobiles with iPod support of any automaker, allowing Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge owners to bring and listen to their entire music collections.”

    “We’re thrilled that over three million Chrysler, Jeep and Dodge automobiles will offer great iPod connectivity in 2006,” said Greg Joswiak, Apple’s vice president of Worldwide iPod Product Marketing. “Over 40 percent of all cars sold in the US in 2006 will offer iPod connectivity.”
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    This 3.8 is currently in use in the Pacifica and perhaps some of the other DC offerings, so it is not 'new' in that respect. Now whether it has been tuned differently, I dunno.

    Looking at the photos of the engine bay, I wonder where an on-board air solution would fit. A second battery setup might be interesting to work, but I'm sure folks like Brad Kilby will figure something out. :)

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    So they are snagging the iPod integration from Mercedes eh? :)

    -Paul
  • ranchgirlranchgirl Member Posts: 5
    Okay, don't laugh...but when I was looking at your pix, I starting singing "Oh oh Black Betty, bam-a-lam". :blush:
    ...There's my $.02 for her name. :P
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    Okay, don't laugh...but when I was looking at your pix, I starting singing "Oh oh Black Betty, bam-a-lam".

    LOL! Yeah, that's actually pretty good; plus, that's a GREAT cruisin' tune!

    I may actually consider that...

    Thanks
    Ryan
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Yeah, it uses the standard plug, we have 3 of the Roady 2 models. The Roady 2 is great and you can buy a remote for it, which I think is essential. I also installed a permanent powersupply.

    Here's a pic of where I have it installed :Roady 2
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Made me think of Douglas Adams, but then I'm a dork...

    "Every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are
    labeled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up
    black to let you know you've done it." (-The Restaurant at the End of the Universe)
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    That looks great. I like the idea of not leaving it up high and easily visible to passers by as well. I'm assuming you ran the cable down from the adapter to the front of the console. I think I'm gonna give that a shot rather than going up through the vent at the windshield...

    Thanks for the pic
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Yep, that's what I did. I double-side taped the PIE adaptor to the firewall and ran the wires down underneath the console. Did the same thing with the powersupply. Then I popped out the worthless coin tray and dremeled a hole in it to run the wires through. Looks very clean. I didn't want it to be readily visible either.
  • timmay1timmay1 Member Posts: 7
    Hey everyone,

    I would like to thank everyone who responded to my 4WD problem with your advice and recomendations.

    As you may recall I found out my front gears were replaced with the original ratio and I couldn't get my Jeep to go forward or reverse more than 12 - 18 inches.

    Luckily I had a warrenty and the guy replaced the front gears at no cost. I did try it out in 4WD just to make sure it all worked and things are going great. I have a little breaking in to do but that shouldn't be any problem.

    Thanks again.

    Tim
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Tim:

    Glad things got straightened out.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    Sure, Art. The power window kit can be obtained from Quadratec. It is high-quality, looks good and is relatively easy to install. Mine has been trouble-free for over 3 years.

    The power doors locks take a little more work. After some research, I purchased a universal fit, 4-door kit from JC Whitney with a Bulldog remote kit. I did not take any pictures of my installation, but I think you can google for some on the web. Basically, you just have to install the actuators where they can push and pull the door lock mechanism. The rear door was the hardest because of the limited amount of space to work, but I got them in. These have been trouble free for the entire time also. I did not install the buttons for the door locks, because the actuators are designed so that if you lock/unlock the doors with the factory locks, the kit triggers the other actuators to do the same to the remaining doors.

    The power window kit is designed to unplug so you can remove the doors, and I simply added some plugs to the door lock kit to do the same thing.

    My Jeep is a DD, so I frequently have valuable items in the rear, and it is nice knowing I can lock all doors with a simple push of the remote button.

    Email if you have any other questions - be glad to help you.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Will that power window kit work for those half doors and zip up windows? :) *laugh*

    -Paul
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Those AR rims really give your Jeep a classic look. Do you have the blue and red pin stripe on the wheels. I painted over the blue stripe with black on my AR rims and it just gives it a better look with a single red stripe. (or no stripes) Whats the decal on the side? Go Easy, John
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Jeeps are badged as "TJ's" in Canada. The name "Wrangler" was being used by someone else, I think. I believe the decal below the "TJ" is a Canadian flag.

    Right, Ryan?

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • drperez007drperez007 Member Posts: 30
    First, a comment about the 2007 Jeep Wrangler. It could have been worse. Let's see how it plays in the real world. Question: Do any of our readers have any experience with the new MOPAR Jeep Off-Road (front) Bumper (82209147AB), which incorporates a winch mount, tow hooks, and fog light mounts (retails for about $525)? I am interested how it works, how it looks, and problems or concerns. Thanks, as always.

    Steve

    And remember, let's be careful out there!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    No experience with it, but those features are available on any number of aftermarket bumpers that are (probably) stronger and cheaper.

    I myself have a Jeeperman bumper with integrated winch mount, shackle mounts instead of tow hooks, and integrated fog light mounts. It also has a light bar to protect the winch better and provide room for additional lighting.

    Here t'is. They make a shorty version too.

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com

    I know that is not what you wanted, but if you already have the Jeep, aftermarket may be a better way to go. If you're getting a new Jeep, rolling that bumper into your payments makes sense.

    I just wish I could SEE one of those bumpers, let alone get an idea of how good they are.

    -Paul
  • bobcat82bobcat82 Member Posts: 13
    That sounds great!

    I drive a lot, so conveniences are nice (and I've gotten used to them on my other vehicles).

    I'll let you know if I have additional questions.

    Thanks.

    Art...
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    Yep, that's right on both accounts. The 'TJ' is what wranglers are known as here in Canada, which is what the other decal is, the Canadian flag.

    Since I live literally 10 minutes from the North American Auto show at Cobo in Detroit, I'm seriously contemplating going this weekend (maybe even tomorrow) just to check out the Jeep display. I wouldn't consider myself a 'car nut' but rather a 'jeep nut', so I wouldn't be there long. If I go, I'll DEFINITELY take some pics (anyone see the new Compass, to come out this year? Personally, I'm not a fan) of what they have to offer, and post them, likely with some difficulty! ;)

    I'll also try and get some specifics on the exact makeup of the new TJ, er, Wrangler.

    BTW, my AR rime DO have the red and blue stripes. I imagine the elimination of the blue would look good, though I'm not gonna bother.

    Serioulsy considering the name Black Betty, as (tongue in cheek?) advised.

    Ryan

    Bam-a-lam...
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    Well, contrary to what I just said, if I DO go to the Auto Show tomorrow, I may be there for quite a bit longer than expected to get a peek at the new Jeeps...considering the show doesn't begin until Saturday! :P
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    "contrary to what I just said, if I DO go to the Auto Show tomorrow, I may be there for quite a bit longer than expected to get a peek at the new Jeeps...considering the show doesn't begin until Saturday!"

    LOL! There are people around here who wait that long for tickets or some shows, I think. The only time I'd consider "camping out" is the New Year's Eve overnight on Colorado Blvd to see the Rose Parade.
  • coug2coug2 Member Posts: 34
    Hi Folks - I've been thinking about buying a wrangler to combine my mid-life crisis with the family's need for a third car as my daughter turns 16 soon. Basically, I'm thinking about three choices, (1) a 98/99 SE with < 50k miles for about $8,500; a used low mile X or sport for $15-16k (2002-2004), or a new X (low 20s).

    I think we would probably put less than 2,000 miles a year on the jeep (we live in a small town and would likely drive my Sequoia or wife's highlander when going out of town).

    I've seen a couple of 98/99 SEs with < 50k miles that look clean and are advertized (FSBO) as never off road. How reliable is such a car likely to be? Would I be facing broken water pumps, electical problems etc, every six months?

    I'm a little concerned about putting too much money into a jeep that my 16 year old will drive b/c (1) 16 year olds shouldn't dive nice cars, and (2) when I was young, I had a few fender benders. Right now I'm thinking the SE and then in a few years when my youngest enters high school and I'm done coaching a soccer team, I can get rid of the Sequoia and, if I like the SE, buy myself a new jeep.

    Any thoughts? Thanks
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Coug2:

    I think you're on the right track when you say you are considering an SE. This Jeep will be driven mainly by your daughter, right? Probably, an SE would be a good choice.

    Jeeps are at least average in reliability, and I think they could be considered above average. A well maintained SE with 50K miles on it shouldn't need anything more than normal maintenance for another 100K miles.

    I don't know if the four bangers had any manifold issues, but the 4.0 L engines had a design flaw in the exhaust manifold in the early TJ years (97 and 98) which made them crack.

    You are getting a vehicle that is radically different from anything you have ever had, so it would be wise to keep the investment to a minimum. Jeeps hold their value very well, so you could keep the SE long enough to see if a Jeep is the right vehicle for your purposes, and then move up to a newer one without taking much loss on trade-in.

    Good luck.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Coug,

    Welcome to the world of a teenage driver in the family. :) It's great and it sucks at the same time!

    I had the same line of thought you did. I got my daughter a 97 TJ SE a few years ago AFTER she turned 16. We made her take a defensive driving class at Willow Springs, and I think it taught her to be more aggressive. When she would drive the Wrangler, she would take turns too fast and a couple of times, nearly rolled it. While a Wrangler is VERY easy to do DIY stuff to, I didn't want to risk her flipping it. She ended up getting a Honda Civic (less likely to roll over, but still a tin can) for college and I haven't worried nearly as much. She knows if she hits anything or gets hit, she's in that tin can, so it settled her down a bit. Now if I could just get her to not want to do the wheels, exhaust, lowering, turbo, etc, it'd be great (yeah she's been around me and cars too much).

    Regarding the ease of repair, if she was driving the Wrangler, a LOT of the work, including body work can be done simply by covering it up with body armor and/or flat fenders and such. This also makes it more trail ready (who'd a thunk it?). The rockers I have also protect it from shopping carts and car doors (yeah, go ahead and hit my 1/4" thick steel sides with your aluminum doors).

    The only mechanical issues I have had that were not self induced are:
    1. Exhaust manifold cracked (as mentioned by Tom). I think they fixed this on 99 or 2000 and later TJ's.
    2. Catalytic converter broke. Replaced by dealer.
    3. Radiator leak (VERY common on ALL TJ's). Replaced with aftermarket radiator and did the work myself. Replaced thermostat at the same time.
    4. Slight pinion seal leak from front differential. Will fix when I regear. :)

    That has been IT. Our 2000 Grand Cherokee only had issues with the pinion seals, and after several visits to the dealer, they finally fixed it.

    Now that my daughter is in her Civic, the Jeep is mine, all mine! :) I've had a blast driving it, even with only 4 cylinders firing. I keep up with Tom and the group at Turkey Bay, but I have to understand my engine's limits and deal with my lower clearance (I'm on 30" tires still - Tom is on 31's and has lockers).

    When looking for a used Jeep, be sure to check the undercarriage for visible signs of offroading - scratches on the frame and transfer case skid, anything bent (or missing), check for rust spots on the frame and bottom of the tub.

    If you get an SE, I'd stay away from the automatics. The manual does a pretty good job of keeping the 4 cylinders up in the torque band, instead of letting the computer tell you when.

    If you have any questions, just ask away! Welcome to the site!

    -Paul
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Coug2,

    You'll love the Jeep so go with what you can afford. But I would never, never let a 16 year old drive an SUV. Paul is right, the daughter needs a Civic or something similar. If you do a search of previous posts you'll find a great article from USA Today regarding teenage drivers and SUVs. I have two 16 year old nieces who have rolled SUVs and were lucky to walk away. One rolled a 4 Runner and the other an Explorer.
  • rich5166rich5166 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can find pics of TJs with different sized tires and lifts. Looks are not the first thing I look for in a lift, but it is a consideration. I'm looking to run 33"s but don't want a big gap between tires and body, won't even consider more than 1" of body lift. I prefer to just go with suspension but may require a body lift if I decide to go with the avenger supercharger I am considering. ;)
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Rich:

    I believe this is your first post, so welcome to the board. Your proifle says you are Army and are deployed. Thanks, Rich, for serving our country. Be careful over there and come home safe. Are you by any chance part of the 101st? I Jeep with some of those boys at Turkey Bay. Ft. Campbell is not too far from there. You are welcome to join us anytime.

    Are you going to "wheel" your Jeep? If so, you will need more room for axle travel to keep the tires from rubbing the flares. If you are not going to do any offroading with the sway bar disco'd, then I believe you could get by with an OME 2" lift, which gives most people almost 3" of lift with the HD version. If you are going to "wheel" and disconnect the sway bar, then I think you will need a 1" body lift as well, or go with a four inch suspension lift.

    I will try to find you a link to that website that shows Jeeps with various lifts and tires. There is such a place.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    http://ptheune.net/~pir/photos/Jeeps/Tires/Selector/index.htm

    here is a link to an interesting page, not sure if its just photochopped or how its done, but you can click the various buttons and get an idea of what a jeep looks like with various size lifts and tires.
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    haven't seen one in real life, but the 2007 seems like a winner to me - tradition looks, wider and a little longer (although I do not want the 4 door). The V6 should be smoother and quieter despite the trade-off in low-end grunt (I think). Creature comfort is best ever - and before people flame me, YES, I WANT CREATURE COMFORT! Rover and Hummer have been making extremely capable and rugged off-road vehicles with comfort items for years - glad to see DC finally seeing the light.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Good job, Jeff! I'll bet that is exactly what Rich was looking for. I was trying to find that same thing for him, but I wasn't having any luck.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    Well, with my new mud tires, I'm planning on hittin' the trails soon. However, I have a few questions:

    I've never disconnected the sway bar, and am well aware of the benefits of doing this. I want to try now, but how do I get it off? I know I need a t55 torx and the wrench, but do I unhook both sides, just one side? I have the tools, so the only problem should be the 9 years of (likely) never been disconnected. Should I expect a tough time?

    Also, because I have 31's, I'm aware of the potential of fender rubbing; is this bad or severe? Could it damage anything severely? Is it stupid to disco with 31's and no lift? Anyone do this?

    As you can see, I have a few questions that need answering before I take Black Betty (yep! ;) ) to the trails.

    As always, thanks, and I look forward to some great responses!

    Ryan
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Disconnect both sides, then rotate the bar up and out of the way and secure it there with zip ties.

    Disconnecting and reconnecting will be much easier if you do it on a clean flat and level surface.

    Unless you're conducting some kind of banzai high speed maneuver you shouldn't damage anything, though you'll probably rub a tire on the inside of one of your fender flares now and again.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Ryan:

    Check these pictures out.

    image

    image

    You can check out my website for a little more info.

    http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay49/id17.html

    Go get 'em!

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?">link title
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    OK Jeep buds, there has to be an easier way. Just rolled 5K miles and decided to rotate my tires, rotating in the spare as suggested by more knowledgable posters. Seems like this would be quick and painless with a lift, but it is cumbersome with only a floor jack and a couple of jack stands. Any suggestions on how to speed up the process? I do have a high lift jack and a second small floor jack--and a credit card that I intend to use unless someone has a time saving suggestion :P
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    To do it 100% safely, use your credit card to purchase two more jack stands. Then, using your one of your floor jacks, lift the rear axle under the diff housing until the wheels are comfortably off the ground and set it on jack stands. Now take both floor jacks to each end of the front axle and lift until the wheels are about 12" off the floor, then place your second pair of stands under the frame and release the jacks. You'll soon be able to tell if you jacked high enough as the suspension extends and you see if the wheels touch the ground or not.

    Second method, not as safe but requires no use of the credit card. Jack and support the rear as before. Then use the floor jack to raise just one front wheel an inch off the ground. You can now switch that wheel with the appropriate rear one BEING CAREFUL NOT TO GET UNDER THE FRONT OF THE JEEP AT ANY TIME. In reality, the likelihood of the front coming off the jack, or the jack suddenly failing, is very small. However, vehicle damage is always preferable to personal injury.

    Finally, unless you're using an impact wrench, slacken the lug nuts before you raise the wheels from the ground. Make sure to tighten them in the correct sequence, and use a torque wrench to finish off when they're back on the ground again.

    To understand the reasoning for the lifting sequence, it helps to know that the diff housing is central on the rear axle, while it's considerably offset on the front. This makes for a balanced lift and support at the rear. However, at the front it's hard to even get an axle stand between the diff housing and hub on one end.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    I agree with Tom on all points. The difference between this and a standard Toyota-Nissan-Honda compact will be the maintenance. If you're buying a used SE, (or even an X), get one with STOCK wheels, no lift, and if you can find it, stock radio. All of these items can be danger signs of how it was used/not used. Remember, we were 16 too once. A used SE may have been abused pretty well. Key signs are four chrome "roller skate" wheels with the stock spare. This usually means a kid drove it, or someone who wanted it to look good, but otherwise wasn't serious about it's longevity. Kids love mud as much as we do. They just don't know they're supposed to take care of the axles by cleaning them out after dunking them. So, budget to have it's front, rear, and possibly Transfer case fluids swapped right away no matter what you buy. These are items that someone who's kid drives an SE may not worry about, versus adults that might spend 30k on a Rubicon would be religious about. I used to work as a service writer for Chrysler, and hardly anyone was having these services done. Otherwise, TJ's/YJ's can go forever. Jp magazine has a project YJ right now with the 2.5 liter that is getting it's first new engine at 300k miles.
    However, don't expect little things like dash lights, door mechanisms, rattles, etc. to match a Japanese vehicle like your Sequoia. It's still a Jeep, after all.

    Oh, one more thing, I believe Jeep changed the four cylinder in 04 (may have been 03?). I've heard it's a much better motor than the older one. Anyone know about that?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I believe Jeep changed the four cylinder in 04 (may have been 03?). I've heard it's a much better motor than the older one. Anyone know about that?

    The four cylinder changed from a 2.5 to a 2.4. Totally different engine, modern design, slightly better fuel consumption.
  • barnz_69barnz_69 Member Posts: 75
    Dito on the use of axle stands; ironic, this should come up. Yesterday, my brother's best friend's cousin unfortunately passed away when he was working underneath his car and the jack gave away; it made front page news here in Windsor. Point is, all jeepers (and any car owner, for that matter) should ALWAYS make sure axle stands are securely in place before getting under the car for any reason (unless, of course, the jeep is not lifted off the ground). I know I'm guilty of this a few times, usually when changing tires as Mac described, scooting under for a few minutes just to inspect things. I can assure you that I will NEVER do that again without secure axle stand sin place.

    Just a warnign; everyone be careful...you can never trust those jacks by themselves.

    Ryan
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    Thanks, Mac, as always for the advise and thanks Barnz for the common sense reminder. My only other question is jack placement on the front. My jack won't extend high enough to lift via the frame and as you point out there is very little axle tube between the diff housing and the hub assembly.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Will the saddle of your smaller floor jack fit in there? If not, you can interpose a piece of wood between the saddle and the axle tube (maybe a short piece of 4"x4"?). I solved the problem for my Jeep by making an adapter out of 2" square tubing, which extends vertically downwards from the receiver hitch in my front bumper. I just plug it in and use the floor jack to lift the whole front end.

    Do not be tempted to use the high-lift under the front bumper. Think of the high-lift as an instrument of last resort, and even then think two or three more times! The high-lift does have its place, but routine tire rotation is not one of them.
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    I have some experience with MOPAR motors...

    As many of you know, I have a '95 YJ with the 2.5L OHV 4-cylinder motor. 94,000 miles and no problems. I would consider getting a used YJ or TJ with this motor as long as the vehicle is properly maintained. The 2.4L ('04+ TJ) is a DOHC 16 valve motor that is not at all like the 2.5L (I do have the 2.4L in a Chrysler Yoyager minivan where it has given me no problems in 50,000+ miles - it doesn't sound like a jeep, though.)

    The 3.8L OHV V-6 is the minivan motor. I had a 3.3L variant in a 1995 Plymouth Voyager that was still running with 130,000+ miles when I sold it last year, and I now have a 3.8L in a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country - no significant problems with either motor.
  • shesamechanicshesamechanic Member Posts: 1
    i have replaced the wiring harness my blinkers don't always work and my flashers come on what is it :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Possibilities include corrosion in the bulb holders, faulty turn signal unit, faulty turn signal switch, faulty emergency signal switch, or (most likely) a poor ground somewhere.

    Finally, ......"my blinkers don't always work and my flashers come on"....... what's the difference between the blinkers and the flashers?
  • northforrestnorthforrest Member Posts: 1
    I am moving from north Idaho to the Utah desert and plan on doing a ground up restoration on my 1990 stock Wrangler that I purchased new off the lot. I would like to add 3 inches in height, beef up the suspension, replace any rusted or worn parts, and give her a new coat of paint. If anyone could recommend any books or websites that would help me avoid mistakes and lay out a plan for my project I would really appreciate it. Has anyone heard of a reasonably priced, high mileage diesel engine that will fit into a Wrangler? Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There's a lot of Jeep restoration and maintenance books out there, though most of the model specific ones concentrate on the CJ and earlier.

    I'd suggest you gather catalogs from the many Jeep aftermarket suppliers. As well as carrying most of the available books, they also carry more suspension and body lifts, spares and accessories, than you can shake a stick at. They will also enable you to establish a budget for the project, which is the first thing you should do in your initial planning.

    As for a diesel engine, there's nothing that drops straight in. However, given sufficient time, money, and resources, nothing is impossible. As as interesting project it might be fun to do, but don't expect it to make sense as an economic exercise.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Check with Jp magazine. Their website carries many of their past articles. They've done at least two project 4-cylinder YJ's, doing almost exactly what you describe (minus the diesel). As far as "ready to transfer" diesels go, your best choice would be a diesel cherokee or CJ motor (both were offered at one point) but it won't be too easy to find either one. Adapting other motors like the Isuzu might be cost prohibitive, but as it was just said, with enough money and time anything's possible.
  • karlw90karlw90 Member Posts: 59
    ..I just got an email about it. Check it out here:

    2007 Jeep Wrangler

    I like it! And, get this... HEADRESTS on the REAR seats!! I may get an 07 just so I'm not so nervous with my 10 yo daughter in the back seat.

    The website is still quite vague. For instance, why no pictures of the four door model? Also, does it even come with a soft top option?? All of the pics are of the Jeep with the new modular hardtop.

    Oh well. I'm sure there will be lots more details revealed about it in the coming months..
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    Discount tire rotates tires for free. I usually go there. I can't keep count of how many times they have plugged tires for me. They do that for free also.
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    What kind of maintenance does everyone do to their softop zippers and how often?

    My drivers side zipper and rear window zipper are toast. I think I am getting new zippers put in for $85 (upper door) and $120 (rear window).
Sign In or Register to comment.