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Comments
I think this version lends itself very well to being a good platform for a Gladiator.
-Paul
Your right Paul, you can definitely see how the Gladiator could be made from this.
-Dan
Mac?????
-Paul
-Paul
You possibly have a head gasket problem which appears under load, i.e. when going uphill. Let your dealer take care of it under warranty.
I'm not sure, but probably not. The Peugeot BA10/5 was only used on the 4.2 from '87 until early '89, and I'm not aware of a bellhousing to suit the 2.5.
Why not do things a little differently. First, the Peugeot transmission is possibly the worst ever fitted to a Jeep. Next, the 2.5 isn't the greatest of engines in a Wrangler, and the fuel consumption is about the same as the 4.0. The 2.5 will also struggle with the gearing of your axles.
Just a thought, but why not consider dropping in a later 4.0?
Thought I'd share something I did to my dash. I wanted to do something to offset the stark gray interior, adding some contrast and a bit of customizing. Instead of getting a resin dash kit with pieces I don't want (at a big price), I used some leftover marine vinyl to make a few dash "inserts".
The pics show my first prototypes. After making a template and cutting them, I sprayed the back with spray-on adhesive purchased at WalMart. I simply pressed them in place and held in place for a minute or two.
The adhesive is semi-permanent, so they're removable if you get tired of them, or just want to change the design. I pulled one of the two pieces you see on the shift boot plate off 3 days after I put it on, and it removed easily. The slight adhesive residue left on the boot plate came off easily with a damp rag.
I know this isn't for everyone, but for someone like me who likes a bit of contrast to an all-gray (or whatever) interior, this is a very inexpensive..and fun...way to "change things up a bit".
Just thought I'd share!
Randy
http://www.carspace.com/rpinks_99/?50@@.59a2c686!photoLoc=.59a2c690&skipNext=0&s- ubmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
http://www.leftlanenews.com/wp-content/plugins/iimage-gallery.php?idpost=2317&id- g=1&idi=4
John
driveway or parking lot. I can't firgure out what it is!!
Going down the road it drives fine. something is a miss though.. PLEASE HELP........... :sick:
-Paul
A 2wd Wrangler. Weird. Not since the DJ...
Jeep Unveils Stretched 2007 Wrangler (Inside Line)
$21,000 USD is the price prediction.
Steve, Host
-Dan
hundreds?!?
-Dan
You can accomplish that with as few as 7 or 8 options.
tidester, host
Very interesting.
I bought a new control panel, installed it, and to my dismay the problem is still there. Does this ring a bell with anybody. Any ideas what might be going on?
-Dan
Heater & A/C - Will Not Switch To Panel Mode
NUMBER: 24-12-99
GROUP: Heating & A/C
DATE: July 2, 1999
SUBJECT:
The Heating and A/C System will not switch to the instrument panel outlet mode.
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a panel/demist door vacuum actuator.
MODELS:
1999 (TJ) Wrangler
1999 (XJ) Cherokee
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The heating and NC system may not switch to the panel mode. This could be caused by a leaking diaphragm in the panel/demist door vacuum actuator. This symptom could be intermittent and system could switch back and forth from the panel mode while driving.
DIAGNOSIS:
Apply vacuum to the panel/demist door actuator using a hand actuated vacuum pump containing a vacuum gauge. The actuator should hold vacuum indefinitely. If the vacuum bleeds off, the diaphragm is leaking. Perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 04864995 Panel/demist Door Vacuum Actuator
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the knee blocker from the instrument panel.
3. Unplug the vacuum line from the actuator (See Figure 1).
4. Insert a trim stick or other suitable wide flat-bladed tool into the actuator mount latch hole to release the latch and gently pry the actuator outwards to remove it from the mount (See Figure 2).
5. Rotate and tilt the actuator to as required to disengage the actuator link from the door lever. Remove the actuator.
6. Install the new actuator, p/n 04864995, by installing the link onto the door lever.
7. Install the actuator onto the mount.
8. Connect the vacuum line.
9. Install the knee blocker.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
Yeeehawww! :shades:
A bunch more pics at Jeep.com, including a Rubi with half doors and hard top versions. Pretty sharp.
-Dan
-Paul
Rich
We have a 2006 Unlimited Rubicon in light khaki w/ a factory khaki hardtop. The Jeep/hardtop are new(5 wks. old)What do you and other forum folks recommend to maintain the top? Vehicle is garaged at home and at work, but taken off pavement every week and returns with lots of crud, mud and dirt. The dlr. says Mopar Finish Enhancer(?).
Ducks, do you do anything else with the fiberglass besides brushing the Penetrol on it? My buddy just got an older 21' glass sailboat that could use a little brightening.
Steve, Host
Check this out: Southern Idaho Sailing Association
If you hurry you can make it on time for the Rust Remover Regatta!
tidester, host
I never did find any photos from the 70's of my '74 CJ-5 with the bumper welded canoe rack to load on my CarSpace page. Talk about a Rube Goldberg contraption. I broke the welds several times bumping down dirt roads to the rivers. That Jeep saved a few long portages.
Steve, Host
i'm also debating on 3" lift or 4"
Jeep at the NY auto show (Straightline)
Steve, Host
I'll take lots of pics and post'em when I get a chance.
Maybe I'll even use CarSpace
One thing I won't be doing is waiting in that line for the "off road" ride. last year it wrapped around the building..much too long a wait.
-Dan
Isn't it hard to do the Jeep Wave all bundled up like that? :shades:
Welcome Scamp!
Steve, Host
Looks like with all of that high tech paint, you woiuldnt dare scratch it up. Just wondered....
Oh, Hummers get taken offroad occasionally! :shades: